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Subject: Re: Pistons
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
yes you can remove and reinstall the piston on the rods by using the
proper fixture to  press them off and you will need to rehone the piston
pin bore before reinstalling the pistons to make sure it was not
distorted. also make sure the shop "aligns" the pistons on the rods to
prevent and drag on the cylinder walls.

>From: Snake488@redacted.email >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Re: Pistons >Date: Sat, 31 May 2003
18:42:09 EDT > >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >In a message
dated 5/31/2003 5:14:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >tgrshrk99@redacted.email
writes: > > > > The machine shop got two sets reversed. > > Very
discouraging. Can they be safely pressed off the rods and then pressed >
> back on the correct rods? Or do I need 4 new pistons? > > > > That's
pretty risky - since you can't heat the end of the rods to >easily press
the pins out, you might try dry ice or liquid nitrogen in the ends of
>the pins to reduce the force required to press them out; measure the
pistons >before and after to determine if they've been damaged. Without
"freezing" the >pins and a good press setup, there's a pretty good chance
of damaging the >pistons. > >John Hinckley >'67 300
>----------------------------------------------------- >For subscriber
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Subject: Re: Pistons - alternative fix?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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just make sure that the bearing offset in the rod is correct for that
crank throw so the insert does not ride on the crank throw radius. to
align the piston/ rod combo they clamp the rod bearing bore  in a fixture
that uses a percision  block aganist a flat surface and the side or the
top of the piston and if it is out of alignment they can twist the rod to
get it true. if the shop does not know what aligning the piston/rod combo
means find one that does. the rod alignment is best done before
installing the pistons and the checked after the instalation for the
final tweek.

j >From: "tgrshrk99" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: >Subject:
Re: Pistons - alternative fix? >Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:26:56 -0400 >
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >The four
incorrectly mounted pistons are only "incorrect" because of the >number
stamped on the rod and rod cap. The rod cap end of each rod was >rebored
and obviously new pistons will be used. Setting aside the
>wrong-number-in-the-hole issue, is there any risk of damage if I use a
rod >in a different bore upon reassembly (i.e., rod from #2 gets used in
#4)? >That would create a mis-numbered set of rods, but avoid the need to
press >the pistons on and off the rods again. >----- Original Message
----- >From: >To: >Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 6:42 PM >Subject: Re:
Pistons > > > > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL) > >
----------------------------------------------------- > > In a message
dated 5/31/2003 5:14:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > tgrshrk99@redacted.email
writes: > > > > > > > The machine shop got two sets reversed. > > > Very
discouraging. Can they be safely pressed off the rods and then >pressed >
> > back on the correct rods? Or do I need 4 new pistons? > > > > > > >
That's pretty risky - since you can't heat the end of the rods to > >
easily press the pins out, you might try dry ice or liquid nitrogen in
the >ends of > > the pins to reduce the force required to press them out;
measure the >pistons > > before and after to determine if they've been
damaged. Without "freezing" >the > > pins and a good press setup, there's
a pretty good chance of damaging the > > pistons. > > > > John Hinckley >
> '67 300 > > ----------------------------------------------------- > >
For subscriber information, see > >
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl > > Send other
comments or questions about this list to > > John C. Broman, Jr. at
jcbroman@redacted.email > > CRPL homepage http://www.corvette-resto.com
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat May 31 21:36:20 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Does anyone know the part number for the harmonic balancer for a 57 F.I., 283 hp car? I know it uses a pulley # 3742991 and it bolts to the harmonic balancer. Is it the same harmonic balancer as all the other 57 engines ? Does this F.I. balancer & pulley bolt to the crankshaft as well ?
Thanks in advance !
Bill Brown
NCRS 39238 

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Does anyone know the markings, if any on the lug wrench of a C1 corvette. I have one that has the letters USA and a letter C on it, any idea what it's from ?
   Thanks in advance
   Bill Brown
   NCRS # 39238

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-----------------------------------------------------
Under No circumstances would I ever press out a pin, the press it back in.
Your Machine shop should stick to wheel barrel repair. Get what is salvageable
from your engine back from the shop, run like the wind.

Steve Hlady
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You can get a reprinted 53 AIM from NCRS.  It will have to suffice for 53, 
54,and 55.  It just recently became available.  It's not the greatest, but 
better than nothing.  Go to <A HREF="www.ncrs.org">www.ncrs.org</A>     and point and click your way to "the 
store".   Chuck
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Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 06:48:43 -0400
From: David Drenzek <ddrenzek293590MI@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: 62 vacuum canister
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks.   John & Mark

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Mohney" <mark@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: 62 vacuum canister


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Dave, try Mary Jo Rohner, www.vettegal.com.
> Last year she sold me an original tank with the valve for my '62
restoration
> project.
> I spent some time looking for a replacement in good condition.  A tough
part
> to locate.  Good luck.  Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Drenzek" <ddrenzek293590MI@redacted.email>
> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 10:17 AM
> Subject: 62 vacuum canister
>
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Does anyone have or know what vendor might have a vacuum tank part
> #3814232 for a 1962 corvette?
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Dave
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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From: "Tom Russo" <hunt4cleanair@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 09:00:29 -0400
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Subject: RE: 1962 RPO 242
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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"the design standardized in 1964, and remained that way until 1969, when the
hole in the back of the block and the oil fill tube disappeared, and the
intake and exhaust locations were integrated into the valve covers instead."

And following those changes through another ten years to late model C3s...it
remained the same with the exception of the PCV valve port moved to the
carb. And in addition, we now "pre-heat our carb air to reduce HC emissions
with the carb stove.

Regards,

Tom Russo
00 MY/BLK/RED
78 SA Bowtie


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email]On
Behalf Of Snake488@redacted.email
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 9:37 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: 1962 RPO 242


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 5/30/2003 8:30:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
nolandadams@redacted.email writes:


> I covered the 1962 RPO 242 Crankcase Ventilation Equipment pretty well in
> my
> book; look on page 358. An adapter is installed in place of the road draft
> tube, and a hose runs from there to the PCV valve, which is mounted in the
> rear of the carburetor or on the fuel injection's plenum chamber. The oil
> filler cap is not involved.
>

Noland -

       I referred to your coverage of RPO 242 before responding, which is
excellent (including all the running changes in the hoses and fittings);
this
system was the beginning of the learning curve for crankcase ventilation
systems,
which draw in outside air (the "intake" side of the system), pull it through
the crankcase to pick up the hot vapors and moisture from blow-by, and suck
it
out (the "exhaust" side of the system) through the adapter, hoses, and PCV
valve into the intake manifold where it's mixed with the fresh intake charge
and
burned - the PCV valve (spring-loaded one-way check valve) meters the flow
of
those hot vapors based on the level of intake manifold vacuum.

       Without an "intake" point for outside air, the "exhaust" (PCV valve)
side of the system won't pull any crankcase vapors into the manifold; the
only
fresh air "intake" point available on PCV-equipped '61-'62 Corvettes was the
oil fill tube (the only opening to the crankcase besides the adapter at the
rear of the block), and it would have to have a vented cap in order to admit
air,
just as pre-'62 Corvettes had (except their "exhaust" for crankcase vapors
was the road draft tube, whose end was shaped to create a negative pressure
when
the car was moving in order to draw air through the crankcase). The
exception
to this on the pre-'62 cars was the non-vented cap released as a running
change on '57 and later solid-lifter engines, replacing the production
vented cap,
due to complaints from the road-racers about "blowing oil" (vapors) out of
the vented cap "during sustained high-rpm operation"; this change wasn't
made
for Engineering reasons - it was made to stop the racers' complaints, as it
effectively disabled the ventilation function of the road draft tube, except
as a
blow-by pressure relief device (no intake, no "flow" through the crankcase).

       Starting in 1963, the configuration of the PCV system was integrated
into the engine design, with the "intake" point being the air cleaner, then
into the adapter tube in the back of the block into the crankcase, and the
"exhaust" point was the oil fill tube, which had a sealed cap and a fitting
with a
hose to the carburetor (some engines had an orifice in a fitting to meter
flow,
and others had various forms of PCV valves). The 1963 system was backwards
(intake from the air cleaner to the oil flll tube, exhaust from the adapter
at
the back of the block into the carb base), but worked the same way - the
design
standardized in 1964, and remained that way until 1969, when the hole in the
back of the block and the oil fill tube disappeared, and the intake and
exhaust locations were integrated into the valve covers instead.

       If we could find absolutely unmolested 1962's, I'd bet a steak dinner
that all of them had vented caps, RPO 242 or not; both ventilation systems
(road draft tube or RPO 242 PCV "exhaust" side) require a fresh air intake
point
in order to function, solid lifters or not, and RPO 242 was developed for
California, where its crankcase ventilation function was expected to work.
The
deviation for "non-vented caps for the racers" on solid-lifter engines may
still
have been in effect for the 340/360hp engines, but who knows 40 years
later -
it's easy to swap oil fill caps. Ain't this fun?

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: RE: Pistons
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
This is something that should be left to a machine shop.  Take the pistons
to a machine shop that knows how to do this.  A good shop has the correct
press and dies and knows how to remove/install your pistons.  Call ahead
first or better - use a shop that a friend knows will do the job correctly.

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Laurence Walker
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 5:29 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Pistons


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
> From: "tgrshrk99" <tgrshrk99@redacted.email>
> When pistons are pressed off rods, are they usually damaged such that
they
> cannot be used again?  The KB pistons I am using in my rebuild are not
all the
> same - the valve reliefs are different depending on whether the
exhaust valve
> is on the left or right of the bore.  The machine shop got two sets
reversed.
> Very discouraging.  Can they be safely pressed off the rods and then
pressed
> back on the correct rods?  Or do I need 4 new pistons?

    Yes, I've been successful doing that, but make sure that the side of
the pin boss is firmly supported and square in the press.  Also, make
sure that you don't collapse the pin retainer groove.  With new pistons,
the pin is round and the pin bore is round also, and has proper
lubrication, so therefore, there is a reasonable chance of success.
Perhaps the machine shop ought to redo it.  If they mess it up, then
they still owe you new, properly fitted pistons.

Good luck,
Larry
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Subject: Re: 57 Harmonic Balancer
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/1/2003 12:36:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jetvet57@redacted.email writes:


> Does anyone know the part number for the harmonic balancer for a 57 F.I., 
> 283 hp car? I know it uses a pulley # 3742991 and it bolts to the harmonic 
> balancer. Is it the same harmonic balancer as all the other 57 engines ? Does 
> this F.I. balancer & pulley bolt to the crankshaft as well ?
> Thanks in advance !
> Bill Brown

Bill -

       The original 283/283 balancer was P/N 3742986, which used a bolt-on 
pulley; the 250hp F.I.and all carbureted engines (except for some 270's) used 
P/N 3713970, which had the riveted-on crank pulley. All 57's had press-on 
balancers (no tapped bolt hole in the crank).

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: Pistons
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
A GOOD machine shop can handle the job of pressing pins out of pistions very 
easily IF they have a pin press. Without the correct {pin press specifically 
for pistons} they could be damaged. It`s strictly for pistons, Never use a 
wheel bearing press as they cannot really do the job correctly and could mess 
everything up. After apart, assembly is best suited with a rod heater.  Although 
some good builders have even used a gas stove flame as long as they are 
experienced in this proceedure very carefully done to center the pin in the rod. 
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  1 08:01:12 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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You have covered most of the necessary parts, but I also would include a set 
of spare belts and hoses. I normally stuff the spare parts any where they 
would fit in the trunk and not be able to roll around. If I may pass on an 
experience of two blown head gaskets which will cause overheating and tremendous 
damage, I just released the radiator pressure cap to the first notch {loose 
releasing the pressure} and proceeded at 70 mph 4000 RPM  {4.56}. gear for 1200 
miles with out a hitch.  From New Orleans to Dearborn Mi. 
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Subject: Re: 57 Harmonic Balancer
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Is the only difference between harmonic balancer part # 3742986 (F.I. 283 HP) and harmonic balancer part # 3713970 (all others), is the method by which the pulley is attached (bolt-on vs riveted)? Or, is there a size or design difference, that also distinguishes to two apart? In other word, could one convert a 3713970 to a 3742986 by drilling and tapping the holes?
Bill
NCRS # 39238

Snake488@redacted.email wrote:

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>In a message dated 6/1/2003 12:36:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>jetvet57@redacted.email writes:
>
>
>> Does anyone know the part number for the harmonic balancer for a 57 F.I., 
>> 283 hp car? I know it uses a pulley # 3742991 and it bolts to the harmonic 
>> balancer. Is it the same harmonic balancer as all the other 57 engines ? Does 
>> this F.I. balancer & pulley bolt to the crankshaft as well ?
>> Thanks in advance !
>> Bill Brown
>
>Bill -
>
>       The original 283/283 balancer was P/N 3742986, which used a bolt-on 
>pulley; the 250hp F.I.and all carbureted engines (except for some 270's) used 
>P/N 3713970, which had the riveted-on crank pulley. All 57's had press-on 
>balancers (no tapped bolt hole in the crank).
>
>John Hinckley
>'67 300
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Guys, can any of you inform me as to the general quality of the current 
repro rocker moldings versus original GM?  Fit, finish, whatever? Would 
appreciate it,Ralph Boineau

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/1/2003 11:15:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jetvet57@redacted.email writes:


> Is the only difference between harmonic balancer part # 3742986 (F.I. 283 
> HP) and harmonic balancer part # 3713970 (all others), is the method by which 
> the pulley is attached (bolt-on vs riveted)? Or, is there a size or design 
> difference, that also distinguishes to two apart? In other word, could one 
> convert a 3713970 to a 3742986 by drilling and tapping the holes?
> 

Bill -

       I don't know - I don't have the prints of each - just the original 
Bill Of Material that calls them out for Flint Engine.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  1 17:29:07 2003
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Subject: Re: Quality of repro rocker moldings?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Boy, can I ever!  Right now the only decent rockers available are the 68-69
design, and the 70-77 design.

All the midyear rockers are JUNK right now.  We have seen them, ordered them
and sent them back to the manufacturer.  The 65 rockers were what we typically
call friendly rockers.  They had more wave's in them than the ocean!   The
side exhaust rocker is a nice part but un-like the GM p/n 3866846 they do not
come with the hardware or the retainer.

We talked with the manufacturer about this problem and they tell me that they
keep selling them.... and then added theat they keep getting them back!   Go
figure?

E
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  1 18:17:04 2003
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Subject: Re: Quality of repro rocker moldings?
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-----------------------------------------------------
I posted the wrong part number for the side exhaust rocker mldg...  Sorry
39338846 is the correct number and is currently still in production.

E
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  1 19:34:39 2003
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Subject: 62 Corvette Powerglide vs 62 Impala Powerglide
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Is it possible to plug the oil lines on a  62 Impala Powerglide to make it an 
air cooled transmission. If not, why? Is there a way to physically tell, both 
externally and internally,  whether a transmission is air cooled? I was 
thinking of contacting Dale Pearman directly but didn't want to bother him if he is 
not feeling well.

Thanks so much.

Deb 
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Subject: 62 Impala vs Corvette Powerglide?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Is it possible to plug the oil lines on a  62 Impala Powerglide to make it an
air cooled transmission. If not, why? Is there a way to physically tell, both
externally and internally,  whether a transmission is air cooled? I was
thinking of contacting Dale Pearman directly but didn't want to bother him if
he is
not feeling well.

Thanks so much.

Deb
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: 65 coupe vent window
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I am trying to replace the weather-stripping around my vent windows (65
coupe) but, I can not get the glass out It is hinged (riveted) at the top
and the rod from the bottom is disconnected from the regulator. What is the
trick?
Louis
65 coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: C1 Paint
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for all of the help on my 57's paint, as I am somewhat clue less. 
Here is the plan; Please don't hesitate to tell me where we might be 
going wrong.
Approaching paint prep completion, about 85% of the car is still covered 
with the 15 year old Featherfill Polyester primer. The body doesn't seem 
to have any problems in this area. The only (stress) cracks are around 
the trunk, deck, dash and hood openings that might have resulted from 
the glass being "resin rich" in these areas of the original molds. These 
areas have been ground out and replaced with new glass. Epoxy polyester 
primer is to be PCL 901. Wait a minimum 3 weeks and see if any surprises 
appear. Base coat to be Dupont Chroma Base #G9900S. Clear coat to be 
Dupont #2100S. We're reluctant to remove the old Featherfill polyester 
primer because it has already been contoured to fill many of the 
original body irregularities and it doesn't seem worthwhile to redo this 
again.
John from Ventura
57/270

>John,
>I wouldn't be shy about getting rid of the featherfill (and the primer on
>top of it) altogether.  I know a lot of people love it and get good results,
>but it is not meant for all over jobs (and, from memory, said so on the data
>sheets) and introduces a fair amount of shrinkage.  I know it looks great
>and fills well, but it sands so well because it is fairly porous, hence
>shrinkage. Especially if it is old, I wouldn't mind getting it out of there.
>If you need to fill something, I'd favor spray gelcoat (awful to work, but
>gives outstanding results).  If not, I'd just go to a good epoxy primer.
>All of the new generation paints are so good I have almost no brand
>preference, but just try to stick with the same primer and topcoats, as you
>don't want to have to introduce the additional thickness of a sealer coat.
>Good luck.  Paint reaction problems are a bear . . .
>John Dillman
>
><I have my 57 in the paint shop. The <existing paint is Black lacquer over 
>PPG DZ-7 primer over Evercoat Featherfill polyester primmer. The 
>plan has been to carefully hand sand down to (but not remove) the 
>Featherfill polyester primer.
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: C-3 Blower Motor
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
ok. i just completed the installation of the updated, more powerful blower 
motor. i just want to let you guys know what i used for the spacer. i went to 
the local plumbers supply house looking for a gasket with a 6 inch diameter to 
go round the fan cage. they had this gasket material called "red rubber" which 
is used to make gaskets any size. the advantage is easy cutting, great 
vibration dampening and ease to work with. i ended up cutting 4 gaskets to make up 
the differance. it is cheap (7 dollars a sheet) and im sure to use this for 
other applications. i wanted to share this with you "guys", hope it helps the 
"next" guy. sincerely, jeff.
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  2 04:03:21 2003
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Subject: RE: 62 hardtop hoist
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I too have a hoist I bought from CC.  Works great and I covered the
weather-strip before hoisting it so the straps don't cut into the rubber.  I
don't think the top weighs more than 75 pounds as my 12 year old daughter
helps me put it on and off the car.  But one word of advice, don't let the
rope come off either of the pullies as you'll have a heck of a time getting
them back on (I know as I cut the rope too short to fasten to the wall).  I
think the hoist supports 300 pounds.
Derek 62 roman red

 


-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Hebbard [mailto:FI1oo16@redacted.email] 
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 11:12 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: 62 hardtop hoist


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The manual lists the top at 50 lbs.  There are several available from the
aftermarket houses, I think mine was from CC.  It works fine and I put a
jacket on it before I hoist it into the ceiling for the driving season.
                      Brian
                 Silver (soon) '62
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Landacre" <blandacre@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 4:03 PM
Subject: 62 hardtop hoist


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a hardtop hoist for a 62 or a 
> set of
plans for a home made hoist? Can anyone tell me the approximate weight of
the top?
>
> Thanks
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see 
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hi Guys,
The weekend was long enough to rebuild my 4 speed muncie tranny. The only 
thing that didn't end up well, was the steel speedometer driving gear which 
was all crushed from a former "rebuilt". 

What's the difference between between the plastic gears and the steel gears? 
On my 69 Z11 Camaro I had the speedometer driving gear (plastic one) fixed 
with a clip to the shaft. (muncie) On the 68'vette it's a steel one and 
pressed on the shaft.(also muncie)

Where can I get a spare speedometer driving gear? Are there several sizes or 
only one? What could be the correct color for the new speedometer gear (black 
w/ 23 teeth)? 
I'm changing the rear end from 4.11:1 to 3.55:1

Thanks for your help!


Daniel
68' 427 Convertible
In the Dominican Republic




 intelNet WebMail
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Jeff,
<"red rubber">
I don't know where you live but if you drive during the colder months you
may be sniffing a "burning tire"...

Dave Juergens
' 57 2x4 SACC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Flaco1801@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 11:54 PM
Subject: C-3 Blower Motor


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> ok. i just completed the installation of the updated, more powerful blower
> motor. i just want to let you guys know what i used for the spacer. i went
to
> the local plumbers supply house looking for a gasket with a 6 inch
diameter to
> go round the fan cage. they had this gasket material called  which
> is used to make gaskets any size. the advantage is easy cutting, great
> vibration dampening and ease to work with. i ended up cutting 4 gaskets to
make up
> the differance. it is cheap (7 dollars a sheet) and im sure to use this
for
> other applications. i wanted to share this with you "guys", hope it helps
the
> "next" guy. sincerely, jeff.
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Noland, John, and Tom,

Thanks for your replies. My engine with RPO 242 has a vented cap and the little 
cone shaped can thing (Crankcase vent adapter according to the General) and I 
was confused by the fact that the vendors who sell replacement caps list the 
non-vented cap for "all with mech lifters"....which obviously isn't correct!!
Once again, your expertise has proved to me that I'm not crazy. Many thanks for 
that. 

The 340HP RE engine I have isn't in the car right now, as I try to collect 
everything to make it NCRS "original" conformation. Currently a 1974 350 is in 
the car and I arranged the PCV system exactly as Tom described it, fresh air 
from inside the air cleaner enters the RH valve cover and the PCV valve lives 
in the LH valve cover grommet, connected to a vacuum port in the carb base.(The 
layout is what I remember I had on my 1969 L46(350HP) engine and which I 
hadrecommended to someone on the list who asked how to deal with a 350 with no 
road draft tube opening for their C1.

Many thanks also to those who replied regarding dash cluster removal for the 
same 1962!! It is out, the dash pad isn't damaged and all the connections are 
marked and I can get the speedo repaired, so I'm halfway home on that one.

Hal Emrich
NCRS, SACC, KSCC
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Subject: AFB Vacuum
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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This is a weird one.  I have a 62 block but the intake and carb are 64.  The
AFB has a bottom vacuum.  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has something
to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor and
have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom vacuum.  I
bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb which I thought may
solve the problem without having to pull the distributor, but it doesn't
fit, it is too large for the vacuum port opening on the front of the carb.
I would fit nicely on the rear of the carb though!!  Anyone know what my
mechanic is talking about?  Thanks. 
 
Derek 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Derek,
The timing on your engine should be set per distributor specs with the vacuum 
disconnected from the distributor. The carb port should be plugged to prevent 
sucking air while setting timing. I can't help you on AFB ports. A guess 
would be the correct port is the port which has full time engine vacuum and plug 
the other one. The correct vacuum can for your distributor should respond to 
full time vacuum (a guess). Regards, Jim Frakes
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/2/2003 1:22:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sharpej@redacted.email writes:


>  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
> timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has something
> to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor and
> have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom vacuum.  I
> bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb which I thought may
> solve the problem without having to pull the distributor, but it doesn't
> fit, it is too large for the vacuum port opening on the front of the carb.
> I would fit nicely on the rear of the carb though!!  Anyone know what my
> mechanic is talking about? 

Derek -

       Your mechanic shouldn't be confused - all distributor vacuum advance 
units of that (pre-smog) era were designed to be connected to full manifold 
vacuum, so they provided full vacuum advance at idle. You set base timing with 
the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, then connect the vacuum advance and 
set idle speed and idle mixture. Your distributor shouldn't need any 
attention unless something in it has failed. Do you know what part number/date 
distributor you have?

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
> timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has
something
> to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor and
> have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom vacuum.  I
> bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb which I thought may
> solve the problem without having to pull the distributor, but it doesn't
> fit, it is too large for the vacuum port opening on the front of the carb.
> I would fit nicely on the rear of the carb though!!  Anyone know what my
> mechanic is talking about?

Perhaps your mechanic just is not familiar with something older than he is.
If I understand your description correctly what you are describing used to
be a relative norm.  Full advance from the distributor (i.e., full vacuum to
the distributor) was expected.  Tell him to set the time time he need only
disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the leak thus created while doing so).
Set the timing to spec.  Reattach the vacuum line.  Adjust carb/idle
accordingly.  And he's done.  This is all assuming there's no actual problem
in the distributor.  When you plug the vacuum line back on the distributor
the idle speed should increase as the timing is advanced by the advance
cannister.  If it doesn't you've likely got a bad advance unit (not a big
deal to fix).  You can check it with a vacuum pump.  Good luck.

Don Carey
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Subject: Clock 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Just got my clock back from "The Clock Works".  Looks great and runs good -
as long as the ignition is on.  The hot wire to the clock is bundled  with a
dozen others - probably something the radio guy did when I put in a new one.
Is there a way I can hot wire the clock, like directly to the fuse box or
something??  I don't want to try to fix this by tracing it here and there
and I don't want to remove the cluster to work on it.

Derek 62 with part-time working clock
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Derek,
I believe you can tap off either side of the ammeter. Regrds, Jim Frakes
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/2/2003 7:34:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sharpej@redacted.email writes:


> Is there a way I can hot wire the clock, like directly to the fuse box or
> something??  I don't want to try to fix this by tracing it here and there
> and I don't want to remove the cluster to work on it.
> 

Derek -

       The clock was originally fed by a "hot all the time" battery feed - an 
18-ga. red wire - should be hanging behind the clock somewhere (and it's hot, 
so it shouldn't be flopping around loose or it'll dead-short against 
something).

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From: "Bob Brown" <silfox@redacted.email>
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:28:44 -0700
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Subject: RE: C1 Lug Wrench
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bill,
Didn't see an answer to your question posted so I just went out and checked
the lug wrench in my 59.  It's the original wrench and it has absolutely no
markings on it.  I blasted it to bare metal a few years ago and repainted
it; when I blasted it, I don't recall seeing any markings.
You might try checking Noland's book to see if he mentions anything about
the wrench.
BTW, I just checked my copy of the 58-60 Judging Manual and it doesn't
mention any markings on the lug wrench.  Just says it is painted semi-gloss
black.
Hope this helps.
Bob Brown
59 ser#100048
waving in San Diego

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+silfox=san.rr.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+silfox=san.rr.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
jetvet57@redacted.email
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 9:43 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C1 Lug Wrench


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Does anyone know the markings, if any on the lug wrench of a C1 corvette. I
have one that has the letters USA and a letter C on it, any idea what it's
from ?
   Thanks in advance
   Bill Brown
   NCRS # 39238

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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun  3 05:53:16 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I too was watching to see if anyone answered the question.  Seemed like
a few years ago there was an article on the C1 jack and tools in the
NCRS Restorer Magazine.  I remember them stating some identification
marks.  I will look for it when I get home today.  I have the original
jack for my 1960, but missing the lug wrench and jack handle if anyone
knows of originals that need a good home!

Greg


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+gregm=cashwa.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+gregm=cashwa.com@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
Bob Brown
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 11:29 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: C1 Lug Wrench


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bill,
Didn't see an answer to your question posted so I just went out and
checked the lug wrench in my 59.  It's the original wrench and it has
absolutely no markings on it.  I blasted it to bare metal a few years
ago and repainted it; when I blasted it, I don't recall seeing any
markings. You might try checking Noland's book to see if he mentions
anything about the wrench. BTW, I just checked my copy of the 58-60
Judging Manual and it doesn't mention any markings on the lug wrench.
Just says it is painted semi-gloss black. Hope this helps. Bob Brown 59
ser#100048 waving in San Diego

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+silfox=san.rr.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+silfox=san.rr.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
jetvet57@redacted.email
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 9:43 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C1 Lug Wrench


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Does anyone know the markings, if any on the lug wrench of a C1
corvette. I have one that has the letters USA and a letter C on it, any
idea what it's from ?
   Thanks in advance
   Bill Brown
   NCRS # 39238

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Can anyone suggest a good repair service for C2 radios
Thanks,
Charlie Falson
66 Corvette
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Subject: Side View Mirror
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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We are in the process of getting the parts ready for rechroming.  Is it
possible to remove the glass and separate the mirror back from the pedestal so
they
can be rechromed, then reassembled?  Or does one simply throw it away and go
buy another mirror?


Steve Morse
'61 - 283/270
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Steve--

I've heard that soaking the mirror in solvent will loosen the glue enough to 
remove the glass. Re-install after plating with suitable adhesive. I have no 
first hand experience however.

George 
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Ditto John's comments.  My clock runs all the time via the standard wire in
the harness.

g

>Derek -
>
>        The clock was originally fed by a "hot all the time" battery feed - an
>18-ga. red wire - should be hanging behind the clock somewhere (and it's hot,
>so it shouldn't be flopping around loose or it'll dead-short against
>something).
>
>John Hinckley
>'67 300

-- 
****************************
Glenn Hackbarth
School of Music
40 East Gammage Parkway
Arizona State University
Tempe, AZ 85287-0405

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
We just did this on a 73.  Soaked the side mirrors in a basin of lacquer
thinner overnight.  Then, gently pulled the pieces apart.  The silvering
isn't bothered by the thinner.  Tighten up the ball and then re-install the
mirror with silicone adhesive.  Works well, is easy and is cheap.
Gary



> Steve--
>
> I've heard that soaking the mirror in solvent will loosen the glue enough
to
> remove the glass. Re-install after plating with suitable adhesive. I have
no
> first hand experience however.
>
> George



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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Getting into fixin' broken parts. The four 8-32 screw holes in the assembly that hold the grill on are stripped beyond use. I had originally thought using heli-coils until I saw the price for the kit....$77 bucks for it at the FLAPS. Replacing the  goofy binder head screws seem to be the only way to fix this correctly, as the space is very small, bigger ones won't fit. Any suggestions? Anyone game for lending me the kit? Thanks! 
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Subject: RE: AFB Vacuum - 1964 vacumn advance port capped on the
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While looking at this mail it reminded me that port on my distributor
for vacumn advance is capped off.  Nothing running to the carb.  The car
runs fine at idle and all speeds.

Should I hook the vacumn advance back-up?

Len Palmer
64 roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: Snake488@redacted.email [mailto:Snake488@redacted.email]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 11:48 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: AFB Vacuum


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/2/2003 1:22:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sharpej@redacted.email writes:


>  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
> timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has
something
> to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor
and
> have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom vacuum.  I
> bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb which I thought
may
> solve the problem without having to pull the distributor, but it
doesn't
> fit, it is too large for the vacuum port opening on the front of the
carb.
> I would fit nicely on the rear of the carb though!!  Anyone know what
my
> mechanic is talking about?

Derek -

       Your mechanic shouldn't be confused - all distributor vacuum
advance
units of that (pre-smog) era were designed to be connected to full
manifold
vacuum, so they provided full vacuum advance at idle. You set base
timing with
the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, then connect the vacuum
advance and
set idle speed and idle mixture. Your distributor shouldn't need any
attention unless something in it has failed. Do you know what part
number/date
distributor you have?

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 19:06:58 -0500
From: steve meltzer <scheherazade@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I was reading on the web about the care and feeding of a rebuilt Ford
toploader...yeah, I heresy I know! Anyhow the shop recommended that
after 500 miles, the case needed to be drained and refilled. Seems like
that would apply to any rebuilt tranny. Is this correct and should I
drain and refill the Muncie on my LT-1? thanx steve meltzer...still
piddling with the vacuum system on the C3!
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Subject: Re: wiper door actuator assembly C3
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I've no idea on the amount of space you have to work with or how much of the repair will show, but here are two ideas:

1) Pop rivet a metal plate over the holes and re-tap new holes
2) At the hardware store you should be able to find hole repair kits
        - On one type you enlarge the hole and then pop-rivet in a threaded insert
        - You enlarge the hole and drop in a rubber thingy that has a metal threaded insert the same size
            as your screws. As you tighten your screws, the rubber compresses and holds all in place

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <hudlerb1@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>

Getting into fixin' broken parts. The four 8-32 screw holes in the assembly that hold the grill on are stripped beyond use. I had
originally thought using heli-coils until I saw the price for the kit....$77 bucks for it at the FLAPS. Replacing the  goofy binder
head screws seem to be the only way to fix this correctly, as the space is very small, bigger ones won't fit. Any suggestions?
Anyone game for lending me the kit? Thanks!
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun  3 17:46:28 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The original screws are fillister head, not binding heads. Fillister head 
screws (as with all other commercial hardware) has a 2A thread. Socket head 
screws (allen screws) have a 3A thread, which is a little tighter. These will fit 
in the grill openings, and MAY be just "fat" enough to hold the grill in place.

George
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In a message dated 6/3/2003 7:50:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hudlerb1@redacted.email writes:


> I had originally thought using heli-coils until I saw the price for the 
> kit....$77 bucks for it at the FLAPS.

       Someone at your FLAPS is really working on gross margin! I paid $31.00 
about a year ago for a genuine Heli-Coil kit for 3/8"-16 (12 inserts, tap, 
and install tool).

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: AFB Vacuum - 1964 vacumn advance port capped on the
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In a message dated 6/3/2003 8:02:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LPalmer@redacted.email writes:


> While looking at this mail it reminded me that port on my distributor
> for vacumn advance is capped off.  Nothing running to the carb.  The car
> runs fine at idle and all speeds.
> 
> Should I hook the vacumn advance back-up?
> 

Len -

       Absolutely!!  Will stabilize your idle, improve idle cooling, throttle 
response, and fuel economy - that's what it's for!  You'll have to re-set 
your idle speed when you connect it (assuming the can is functional), as it will 
add about 15 degrees to your base timing at idle, which will increase your 
idle rpm; also a good idea to touch-up your idle mixture screws for highest 
steady vacuum at idle rpm. Whoever disconnected it read too many Summit/Jeg's 
catalogs and hasn't a clue what vacuum advance is for or how it works -"Gee, race 
cars don't have it, so if I disconnect it my car will run just like a race 
car"....... :-(

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Anybody out there have any experience assembling a C1 windshield / frame assembly? I removed the old glass about a year ago without much effort. (it's kicking my butt!) 
I have new glass to put in the freshly polished frame but it's proving difficult. With the new rubber installed on the glass I can't get the lower frame section to go over the glass and gasket. In what order do the parts go together and what materials are used? Is a sealant used between glass and rubber and between the rubber and frame?
 
Thanks, Robert, '59 270
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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I just got my posts back from the platter so mine is ready to go back 
together also. Luckily, there is a guy in my area that assemblies these 
guys for $150. Based on the price of my new windshield and the sweat 
involved, I think this is a real bargain. It seems like I have seen 
articles in the NCRS "Restorer" or SACC "On Solid Ground". The ST-12 
shows some good detail and makes it look simple. A guy I know that has 
done a lot of them says "use lots of vaseline and masking tape to hold 
things together during assembly". Please keep us advised on how this 
turns out!
John from Ventura,
57/270

>Anybody out there have any experience assembling a C1 windshield / frame assembly? I removed the old glass about a year ago without much effort. (it's kicking my butt!) 
>I have new glass to put in the freshly polished frame but it's proving difficult. With the new rubber installed on the glass I can't get the lower frame section to go over the glass and gasket. In what order do the parts go together and what materials are used? Is a sealant used between glass and rubber and between the rubber and frame?
>Thanks, Robert, '59 270
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Robert,

Call me tomorrow!  I'll give you a play by play on how to put this back
together!  If I'm not in the office call the shop and ask for Victor.  He has
done three this year and tell him I told you to call.

E
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----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Lavelle
To: sharpej@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:52 PM
Subject: Vacuum Advance


If your mechanic is confused about setting timing with the vacuum advance
connected, then I suggest you find a new mechanic. Base timing is almost
always set with vacuum advance disconnected and at a specific engine RPM. Most
Ignition distributors have both mechanical (centrifugal) and vacuum advances.
Mechanical advance is RPM sensitive and vacuum advance is Load sensitive.  As
RPM increases, so must ignition timing. Vacuum advance is typically connected
to "Venturi" vacuum or "Ported" vacuum located just above the throttle plates.
When the throttle plate is opened, just off idle, this port is exposed to
vacuum that increases with the velocity of intake air through the carburetor
venturi.
Most centrifugal advance systems are good for about 10 - 12 degrees advance.
Vacuum advance typically adds another 12 - 16 degrees.
Using a modern timing light with a "dial in" timing display, you can measure
the amount of total advance each advance system provides and calculate total
advance.
Anyway, I suggest you connect the vacuum advance to "Ported" or "Venturi"
vacuum above the throttle plate and for gods sake, Disconnect the vacuum
advance when setting base timing!
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Steve, I am not sure about your 61 but Paragon has replacement mirrors for
73s.
Gary

> We are in the process of getting the parts ready for rechroming.  Is it
> possible to remove the glass and separate the mirror back from the
pedestal so
> they
> can be rechromed, then reassembled? Or does one simply throw it away and
go
> buy another mirror?
>
>
> Steve Morse
> '61 - 283/270



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Robert:  If you send me an email I have a very good article on the 
replacement of a C1 windshield replacement I can email you.  The file size is quite 
large (47 megs) so it will take some time to upload.  

Regards...Norm  Red '62 Pewter '99
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The "rubber thingies" with the threaded brass inserts are called "Wellnuts". 
They are widely used on HD motorcycles if you can't find them in a hardware 
store. They have the advantage of damping vibration, the disadvantage of not 
being "NCRS correct". They are, however, very large in diameter relative to the 
screw insert they support. i.e about 3/8" for a #10 machine screw which could 
be a disadvantage as well.
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John H. or anyone else who might know...

Could you comment on the fact that the correct dual point distributor used on 
the 340HP engine is designed without a vacuum advance?? Why'd they do that?? 
Would seem to be a disadvantage for street driven cars.....

Hal Emrich
NCRS,SACC,KSCC 340HP 62
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From: Greg Mankin <gregmankin@redacted.email>
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An alternative is to used a little threaded insert made by Emhart Corp
(the pop-rivet people).  They are installed like a pop rivet using a
pulling mandel that fits inside the nose of a manual pop rivet gun. 
Drill the proper sized hole, thread insert onto the mandrel as
instructed, insert mandrel into the pop rivet gun, push insert into
hole, squeeze the handle, release the mandrel from the rivet gun and
unscrew the mandrel from the insert.  Voila.  Used lots of 'em on my
old race car for instrument panels, etc.
Greg Mankin
--- hemrich@redacted.email wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The "rubber thingies" with the threaded brass inserts are called
> "Wellnuts". 
> They are widely used on HD motorcycles if you can't find them in a
> hardware 
> store. They have the advantage of damping vibration, the disadvantage
> of not 
> being "NCRS correct". They are, however, very large in diameter
> relative to the 
> screw insert they support. i.e about 3/8" for a #10 machine screw
> which could 
> be a disadvantage as well.
> -----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: Fw: Vacuum Advance
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In a message dated 6/4/2003 12:55:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kevin.lavelle3@redacted.email writes:


> Vacuum advance is typically connected
> to "Venturi" vacuum or "Ported" vacuum located just above the throttle 
> plates.
> When the throttle plate is opened, just off idle, this port is exposed to
> vacuum that increases with the velocity of intake air through the carburetor
> venturi.
> 

       "Ported" vacuum is an aberration which was introduced purely as an 
emissions strategy in the days before catalytic converters and feedback systems, 
as a way to intentionally retard timing at idle in order to increase exhaust 
gas temperature to ensure that A.I.R. systems created complete afterburning in 
the exhaust manifolds. Most of these engines were base-timed at 4 degrees or 
less, and some were timed as much as 4 degrees AFTER TDC; to make up for it, 
they had up to 32 degrees of centrifugal advance in order to maintain 34-36 
degrees total timing in an attempt to restore high-rpm/full-throttle performance.

       Pre-'68 Corvettes (except '66 L-72 and '67 L-71) were all designed for 
full manifold vacuum on the vacuum advance diaphragm, and later cars that 
used "ported" vacuum will benefit from a change to full manifold vacuum; with the 
vacuum advance fully-deployed at idle (which requires a can calibrated to be 
fully deployed at 2" Hg. or more below whatever manifold vacuum the engine 
develops at idle), idle is stabilized, exhaust gas temperature (and the amount of 
heat transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant in the 
heads) is reduced, and idle cooling is improved dramatically. Echlin (available at 
NAPA) makes a full line of replacement vacuum advance cans in a wide range of 
calibrations for about $10 each. "Ported" vacuum was an early band-aid to 
assist A.I.R., and nothing more; that's why those cars ran like crap and ran hot, 
with retarded idle timing and lazy centrifugal advance curves.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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In a message dated 6/4/2003 8:47:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, hemrich@redacted.email 
writes:


> John H. or anyone else who might know...
> 
> Could you comment on the fact that the correct dual point distributor used 
> on 
> the 340HP engine is designed without a vacuum advance?? Why'd they do that?? 
> 

Hal -

       Back in the late 50's/early 60's, the Chevy thought was that people 
who opted for the solid-lifter engines were going to race them, and "race" cars 
were operated at high rpm and high throttle openings most of the time, and 
didn't need the idle and low-rpm benefits provided by vacuum advance for street 
operation (stable idle, idle cooling, throttle response, and cruise fuel 
economy). It became obvious by 1963 that this wasn't the case in the real world, and 
from 1963 on, all Corvette distributors had vacuum advance so ignition timing 
was both speed- and load-sensitive for the most responsive operation in 
normal driving. They got the vacuum advance can calibration wrong in 1963 (can 
wasn't fully deployed at idle on the low-vacuum SHP/F.I. engines), but that was 
corrected as a running change in early 1964 with cans that were fully-deployed 
at 8" manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance cans of all calibrations were 
discontinued by GM many years ago, but the Echlin #VC-1810 is exactly the same 
calibration (15 degrees advance at 8" Hg. vacuum), stamped "B28" on the mounting 
bracket.

John Hinckley
'67 300

John Hinckley
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From: 99015 <fwjones@redacted.email>
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Subject: 1966 Rear Windshield Int Trim
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I've removed the rear windshield interior plastic trim pieces in an
attempt to quiet an irritating vibration noise between the plastic trim
pcs and the actual windshield frame.  Seems that some of the screws were
loose and upon further inspection, found the screw holes in the
fiberglass frame for the windshield were enlarged / stripped out.
Anyone out there have an suggestions as to repair these holes so that
can use the original size screws?  The screws appear to be the original
sheet metal type screws and I'd like to be able to tighten these to get
rid of the noise.  Has anyone ever used any expoxy with any success?
I've used the aircraft style rivnuts in other applications and these
would also work but I thought I would inquire if there might be a more
original repair.  Also would anyone know if there was ever any type of
insulation material between the trim and windshield frame?  It looks
like the vinyl at the very rear / top attaches between the trim and
frame but there was nothing inbetween the plastic trim and framework as
you come forward.
Thank You!
Frank
66 Coupe
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From: Greg Mankin <gregmankin@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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-----------------------------------------------------
I can attest that the B28 can John suggested works very well indeed. 
At his suggestion I put one on my small block and it helped it come
alive compared to the can previously installed.
Greg Mankin

Vacuum advance cans of all calibrations were 
> discontinued by GM many years ago, but the Echlin #VC-1810 is exactly
> the same 
> calibration (15 degrees advance at 8" Hg. vacuum), stamped "B28" on
> the mounting 
> bracket.
> 
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> 
> John Hinckley
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I had the same problem on my '63 coupe and used the plastic screw anchors
you get at the hardware store. I got the small ones that fit the original
stripped out holes and they worked perfectly.
Ken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "99015" <fwjones@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 9:44 AM
Subject: 1966 Rear Windshield Int Trim


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I've removed the rear windshield interior plastic trim pieces in an
> attempt to quiet an irritating vibration noise between the plastic trim
> pcs and the actual windshield frame.  Seems that some of the screws were
> loose and upon further inspection, found the screw holes in the
> fiberglass frame for the windshield were enlarged / stripped out.
> Anyone out there have an suggestions as to repair these holes so that
> can use the original size screws?  The screws appear to be the original
> sheet metal type screws and I'd like to be able to tighten these to get
> rid of the noise.  Has anyone ever used any expoxy with any success?
> I've used the aircraft style rivnuts in other applications and these
> would also work but I thought I would inquire if there might be a more
> original repair.  Also would anyone know if there was ever any type of
> insulation material between the trim and windshield frame?  It looks
> like the vinyl at the very rear / top attaches between the trim and
> frame but there was nothing inbetween the plastic trim and framework as
> you come forward.
> Thank You!
> Frank
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun  4 07:39:27 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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For the real purist, you could fill the holes with a mixture of resin and 
"filler" (a white powder used in fiberglass repair) and then re-drill the holes 
in the original size.  Its a lot of work for something no-one but you will ever 
see.......your call.

Hal Emrich 
62 340
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

I'm currently running a mallory dual point with mechanical tach drive and no 
vacuum advance in my "driver engine"(the 340 is the restoration engine). It 
sounds as if adding a vacuum advance mechanism would be an improvement for 
street driving and would help the 350 run cooler at idle in traffic. Does this 
make sense to you?? I assume that Mallory or Echlin would make a suitable can 
for my distributor.

Thanks for all your informative advice, it really is a help.

Hal Emrich
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun  4 07:58:26 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I've worked for a manufacturer of fiberglass parts for the heavy truck
industry (hoods, fenders, roofs, sleepers, et al) for over twenty
years.  We must warrant our parts to the truck manufacturer for one
million over the road miles without failure.  Trust me when I say that
in this application a mix of resin and fumed silica (the typical
thixotropic filler added to make a resin paste) will be far too 'resin
rich' to hold a screw thread for too long.  The strength of fiberglass
is primarily derived from the glass fibers.  The resin is a matrix that
binds the fibers together and holds the shape desired.  If you really
want to use resin mix of some type to fill these holes, you should fill
the resin with a mixture of 1/8" and 1/4" chopped strands of fiberglass
and use milled fibers as a thickening agent.  Even this will not be a
permanent fix if the screw is removed/reinstalled several times after
the repair has been made.  A metal plate with a machine screw type
insert, or a nut plate held in place with rivets (as used in aluminum
and composite aircraft) is the best choice for absolute durability and
removal and reinstallation.
Greg Mankin


--- hemrich@redacted.email wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For the real purist, you could fill the holes with a mixture of resin
> and 
> "filler" (a white powder used in fiberglass repair) and then re-drill
> the holes 
> in the original size.  Its a lot of work for something no-one but you
> will ever 
> see.......your call.
> 
> Hal Emrich 
> 62 340
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/4/2003 10:50:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hemrich@redacted.email writes:


> I'm currently running a mallory dual point with mechanical tach drive and 
> no 
> vacuum advance in my "driver engine"(the 340 is the restoration engine). It 
> sounds as if adding a vacuum advance mechanism would be an improvement for 
> street driving and would help the 350 run cooler at idle in traffic. Does 
> this 
> make sense to you?? I assume that Mallory or Echlin would make a suitable 
> can 
> for my distributor.
> 

Hal -

       Adding vacuum advance will definitely improve both driveability and 
idle cooling. You'll have to check with Mallory to see if that distributor will 
accept a vacuum advance unit, either theirs or a "standard" one. I've used 
several Mallory Unilite vacuum advance distributors, but I don't know if they 
have a vacuum advance version of the dual-point or not.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
you can have your non vacuum distributor recurved so you have full
mechanical advance at 2500 engine RPM to help you get the best mileage
and part throttle responce.

>From: hemrich@redacted.email >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62 >Date: Wed,
04 Jun 2003 12:46:47 +0000 > >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation
List (CRPL) >----------------------------------------------------- >John
H. or anyone else who might know... > >Could you comment on the fact that
the correct dual point distributor used on >the 340HP engine is designed
without a vacuum advance?? Why'd they do that?? >Would seem to be a
disadvantage for street driven cars..... > >Hal Emrich >NCRS,SACC,KSCC
340HP 62 >----------------------------------------------------- >For
subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl >Send other
comments or questions about this list to >John C. Broman, Jr. at
jcbroman@redacted.email >CRPL homepage http://www.corvette-resto.com

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/4/2003 10:02:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
crpl-request@redacted.email writes:

> Hal -
> 
>     Back in the late 50's/early 60's, the Chevy thought was that people 
> who opted for the solid-lifter engines were going to race them, and "race" 
> cars 
> were operated at high rpm and high throttle openings most of the time, and 
> didn't need the idle and low-rpm benefits provided by vacuum advance for 
> street 
> operation (stable idle, idle cooling, throttle response, and cruise fuel 
> economy). It became obvious by 1963 that this wasn't the case in the real 
> world, and 
> from 1963 on, all Corvette distributors had vacuum advance so ignition 
> timing 
> was both speed- and load-sensitive for the most responsive operation in 
> normal driving. They got the vacuum advance can calibration wrong in 1963 
> (can 
> wasn't fully deployed at idle on the low-vacuum SHP/F.I. engines), but that 
> was 
> corrected as a running change in early 1964 with cans that were 
> fully-deployed 
> at 8" manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance cans of all calibrations were 
> discontinued by GM many years ago, but the Echlin #VC-1810 is exactly the 
> same 
> calibration (15 degrees advance at 8" Hg. vacuum), stamped "B28" on the 
> mounting 
> bracket.
> 
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> 

John,

With all this being said, does it stand to reason that a '61 - 270HP, such as 
I have, would be better for street use if it had a vacuum advance 
distributor?  And if so is there such a retro fit distrubitor available.

Steve Morse
'61 - 283/270
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Steve,

I think that you would benefit from a vacuum advance.  But, I tried to put
one on my '60 270 without sucess.  When you try to adjust the timing, the
vacuum can hits on either the rear carb or the coil mounting bracket before
you achieve the correct setting.  I tried moving the dist. by 1 tooth and
rotating the wires in the cap but I couldn't come up with a combination that
worked.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SRMorse@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 12:54 PM
Subject: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/4/2003 10:02:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> crpl-request@redacted.email writes:
>
> > Hal -
> >
> >     Back in the late 50's/early 60's, the Chevy thought was that people
> > who opted for the solid-lifter engines were going to race them, and
"race"
> > cars
> > were operated at high rpm and high throttle openings most of the time,
and
> > didn't need the idle and low-rpm benefits provided by vacuum advance for
> > street
> > operation (stable idle, idle cooling, throttle response, and cruise fuel
> > economy). It became obvious by 1963 that this wasn't the case in the
real
> > world, and
> > from 1963 on, all Corvette distributors had vacuum advance so ignition
> > timing
> > was both speed- and load-sensitive for the most responsive operation in
> > normal driving. They got the vacuum advance can calibration wrong in
1963
> > (can
> > wasn't fully deployed at idle on the low-vacuum SHP/F.I. engines), but
that
> > was
> > corrected as a running change in early 1964 with cans that were
> > fully-deployed
> > at 8" manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance cans of all calibrations were
> > discontinued by GM many years ago, but the Echlin #VC-1810 is exactly
the
> > same
> > calibration (15 degrees advance at 8" Hg. vacuum), stamped "B28" on the
> > mounting
> > bracket.
> >
> > John Hinckley
> > '67 300
> >
>
> John,
>
> With all this being said, does it stand to reason that a '61 - 270HP, such
as
> I have, would be better for street use if it had a vacuum advance
> distributor?  And if so is there such a retro fit distrubitor available.
>
> Steve Morse
> '61 - 283/270
> -----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun  4 11:35:44 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Greg, Ken & Hal:
Thanks for responding.  I think the plastic screw anchors sound like the easiest,
most effective route to take and they will not be noticeable anyway.  I'm not that
well acquainted with fiberglass repairs either.
Again, Thank You for everyone's input.
Frank
66 Coupe

hemrich@redacted.email wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For the real purist, you could fill the holes with a mixture of resin and
> "filler" (a white powder used in fiberglass repair) and then re-drill the holes
> in the original size.  Its a lot of work for something no-one but you will ever
> see.......your call.
>
> Hal Emrich
> 62 340
> -----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: soft top replacement 64
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hello All,   I am getting ready to put a new soft top on.  I bought a top from Al Knoch and I also bought a new weather strip kit.  My car was sold as a hardtop only so I had to find a frame in addition to installing the rear deck latches.  I have read the manual  in addition to some on-line material.   Any tips on how to go about this job would be appreciated.  I will have to adjust the frame to fit as well.  Currently there is a 39 year old top on the frame that has shrunk.  Thank you  Derrick 64/Santa Barbara
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/4/2003 1:55:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SRMorse@redacted.email 
writes:


> With all this being said, does it stand to reason that a '61 - 270HP, such 
> as 
> I have, would be better for street use if it had a vacuum advance 
> distributor?  And if so is there such a retro fit distrubitor available.
> 

Steve -

       Any street engine running without it will benefit from vacuum advance, 
but there may be physical/clearance limitations involved with installing one 
on a 2x4 due to can interference with the outboard rear corner of the rear 
carb and the coil/spark plug wire support bracket. All small-blocks with vacuum 
advance distributors were single 4-barrel applications and didn't have the 
inboard interference issue to contend with, which would limit distributor housing 
rotation/timing adjustment.

       I left my '57 270 2x4 stock with the 891 distributor; just made sure 
the centrifugal advance mechanism was working properly (PITA, as the mechanism 
is below the breaker plate, calibrated it on a Sun distributor machine so I 
didn't have to tear the distributor down again) and it ran fine.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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-----------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>......... I tried to put
> one on my '60 270 without sucess.  When you try to adjust the timing,
the
> vacuum can hits on either the rear carb or the coil mounting bracket
before
> you achieve the correct setting.  I tried moving the dist. by 1 tooth
and
> rotating the wires in the cap but I couldn't come up with a
combination that
> worked.
>
> Tom
>
    Tom,  I've had this happen.  If you just can't get it timed one way
or the other when shifting a tooth, pull the distributor gear off the
shaft and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.  This shifts the teeth
effectively 1/2 tooth.  Now, you'll find that the vacuum advance
cannister will be in the center of the opening.

Cheers,
Larry
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Subject: Vacuum advance - Centrifugal advance
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Someone posted that it's good to have all the centrifugal in by 2500
rpm.  Don't believe all that you read in the magazines!  Your engine
will tell you.  With the lower octane of today's gas, you may find some
knock at 2500 to 2800 rpm.  If that's the case, use a stiffer spring(s)
(they don't have to match) to lengthen the curve.  With my 11:1 L76,
it's now knock free on 93 octane, but the curve had to be lengthened to
3300 rpm.

Cheers,
Larry
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Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62
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-----------------------------------------------------
Larry,

That's great info.  I'm going to try that ASAP because I REALLY want the
bennies of a vacuum advance.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laurence Walker" <larrywalk@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>......... I tried to put
> > one on my '60 270 without sucess.  When you try to adjust the timing,
> the
> > vacuum can hits on either the rear carb or the coil mounting bracket
> before
> > you achieve the correct setting.  I tried moving the dist. by 1 tooth
> and
> > rotating the wires in the cap but I couldn't come up with a
> combination that
> > worked.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>     Tom,  I've had this happen.  If you just can't get it timed one way
> or the other when shifting a tooth, pull the distributor gear off the
> shaft and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.  This shifts the teeth
> effectively 1/2 tooth.  Now, you'll find that the vacuum advance
> cannister will be in the center of the opening.
>
> Cheers,
> Larry
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun  4 14:52:20 2003
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Get the frame to fit first. It has more moves than a Hawaiian hula dancer,
so take your time and get it right. I used Al Knocks "How to install your
top" video. I'd watch 5-minutes, go do that, watch another 5-minutes, etc.
It came out great.
Ken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Derrick Rushton" <drushton2@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:12 PM
Subject: soft top replacement 64


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hello All,   I am getting ready to put a new soft top on.  I bought a top
from Al Knoch and I also bought a new weather strip kit.  My car was sold as
a hardtop only so I had to find a frame in addition to installing the rear
deck latches.  I have read the manual  in addition to some on-line material.
Any tips on how to go about this job would be appreciated.  I will have to
adjust the frame to fit as well.  Currently there is a 39 year old top on
the frame that has shrunk.  Thank you  Derrick 64/Santa Barbara
> Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> -----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
>     Tom,  I've had this happen.  If you just can't get it timed one way
> or the other when shifting a tooth, pull the distributor gear off the
> shaft and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.  This shifts the teeth
> effectively 1/2 tooth.  Now, you'll find that the vacuum advance
> cannister will be in the center of the opening.

What sometimes feels like a hundred years and a million small block chevy
engines later and a guy can still learn something.  I didn't know that about
the driven gear for the distributor.  Very cool.  Thanks.

Don Carey
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In a message dated 6/4/2003 8:27:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
doncarey@redacted.email writes:


> What sometimes feels like a hundred years and a million small block chevy
> engines later and a guy can still learn something.  I didn't know that about
> the driven gear for the distributor. 

       Very true - the "dimple" on the distributor gear is supposed to be 
pointing in the same direction as the rotor tip for correct "phasing" of the 
distributor, and having the gear on 180-off takes it out of phase by half a tooth, 
or 13.8 degrees. I didn't mention that in my earlier post, as I was more 
concerned with possible interference between the can and the rear corner of the 
rear WCFB; I don't have my '57 any more to check clearances, and I've never seen 
a vacuum advance distributor installed on a 2x4 engine. The vacuum advance 
has a wider swing arc available on a 1x4 (due to not having a rear carb in the 
way) - when they're 180-out, the can usually hits the #8 intake runner, 
especially with an SHP aluminum intake with tall runners.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun  4 18:13:37 2003
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Can someone please identify the following:
Transmission-tag on the side reads 3981706WT
Flywheel # 3973456
thanks in advance
Ken Edmunds
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Subject: L-72 question (vacuum advance)
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I saw reference to this motor; and I'm concerned about its smoothness of idle
and ease at tuning up.  Soon I will take possession of a '66 w/#3247 Holley
(L-72). Would anyone have some comments on this?  Since TSB's weren't around
then I'm worried I may have either vacuum, stumble, or lash concerns down the
road.  I have some AC - C43N plugs, and a set of AC 44N's.  Which is better
for street use--and what gap is recommended?  This is a solid lifter motor,
(original) correct?  Thanks.
Jeff B. '95 LT1, '69 + '66 BB
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Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 23:43:58 -0500
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can you run tubeless tires with the riveted version of the C1 rims?  Are
there any precautions (i.e. run tubes in them, powder coat them, seal
them with ???)  The feedback that I got back on the last question on C1
rims was that welded rims came out with the addition of tubeless tires
on C1 possibly to prevent leaking.  Can you run radials with the riveted
rims or will the overload them like Coker advertises (actually I think
they state this for original rims welded or riveted)?  What width
whitewalls were used in '60?  Also what brand of tires was used?  

Thanks,

Ted
NCRS #30057
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 22:21:54 -0800
From: Glenn Hackbarth <hackbarth@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Charles, I don't know if the attached will help or not, but I have sent to
>others and they enjoyed them.  I can't even remember where I got them, but I
>hope they can help you.
>Derek 62 roman red


Just saw this message.  I've got one with a shaft that doesn't press 
fit in tightly and
would like whatever info you have.  Does our list strip attachments? 
If so, best
to email me directly.

many thx
glenn
-- 
****************************
Glenn Hackbarth
School of Music
40 East Gammage Parkway
Arizona State University
Tempe, AZ 85287-0405

office:  480-965-3170
fax:      480-965-2659
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I've got a left side wiper transmission that has gone teats up.  Did the
passenger side two or three years ago.  I know this question is off-topic so
responses might best be direct but does anyone have experience with the
"upgrade" kit that Corvette Central has in their catalog?  It reads as if
the motor hangs under the dash so can the original motor remain in place for
appearance sake?  Or must it be removed entirely?  Are the wiper
transmissions direct linkage?  Basically, any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Don Carey
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun  5 04:20:08 2003
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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 07:19:36 -0400
From: Charles Bernhardt <cbernhardt@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Derek, Glen, others:

I could not find the information I was looking for regarding repairing the 
wiper transmissions, so I went ahead and dis-assembled and repaired the 
ones I was having trouble with.  I created a web page to show how I did 
this. The site is not quite finished but here is the web 
address:  http://www.carols62.com/59/wiper_trans.htm

I am still looking for some information on the cable lengths.  I found an 
article in the Restorer CD that gave the lengths, but the measurements did 
not match my transmissions very closely.  If anyone has a transmission 
lying around that they could measure, I would appreciate receiving any 
information on the lengths of the cables.  The measurement I would like to 
have is the total length from end to end, including the swaged ends.  Be 
sure to include information such as right or left transmission, top or 
bottom pulley.
Thanks,
Charles

At 10:21 PM 6/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>Charles, I don't know if the attached will help or not, but I have sent to
>>others and they enjoyed them.  I can't even remember where I got them, but I
>>hope they can help you.
>>Derek 62 roman red
>
>
>Just saw this message.  I've got one with a shaft that doesn't press fit 
>in tightly and
>would like whatever info you have.  Does our list strip attachments? If 
>so, best
>to email me directly.
>
>many thx
>glenn
>--
>****************************
>Glenn Hackbarth
>School of Music
>40 East Gammage Parkway
>Arizona State University
>Tempe, AZ 85287-0405
>
>office:  480-965-3170
>fax:      480-965-2659
>http://www.public.asu.edu/~glennh
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: RE: Stripped Screws in fiberglass
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ii tried the plastic anchor and they worked provided there is no pressure on
them.  I used them in several holes for the door panels.  However, the screw
that is up highest next to the dash on the door panel, for some reason has a
lot of pressure on it and the plastic anchor didn't hold.  I had to use the
metal plate and rivets.  Liquid steel didn't even hold it!!!
Derek 62 roman red


-----Original Message-----
From: 99015 [mailto:fwjones@redacted.email] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 2:35 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Stripped Screws in fiberglass


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Greg, Ken & Hal:
Thanks for responding.  I think the plastic screw anchors sound like the
easiest, most effective route to take and they will not be noticeable
anyway.  I'm not that well acquainted with fiberglass repairs either. Again,
Thank You for everyone's input. Frank 66 Coupe

hemrich@redacted.email wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For the real purist, you could fill the holes with a mixture of resin 
> and "filler" (a white powder used in fiberglass repair) and then 
> re-drill the holes in the original size.  Its a lot of work for 
> something no-one but you will ever see.......your call.
>
> Hal Emrich
> 62 340
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see 
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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Subject: RE: AFB Vacuum
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What's the advance at idle for a 327/300 in the 62?

Derek 


-----Original Message-----
From: Don Carey [mailto:doncarey@redacted.email] 
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 3:06 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: AFB Vacuum


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
> timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has
something
> to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor 
> and have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom 
> vacuum.  I bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb 
> which I thought may solve the problem without having to pull the 
> distributor, but it doesn't fit, it is too large for the vacuum port 
> opening on the front of the carb. I would fit nicely on the rear of 
> the carb though!!  Anyone know what my mechanic is talking about?

Perhaps your mechanic just is not familiar with something older than he is.
If I understand your description correctly what you are describing used to
be a relative norm.  Full advance from the distributor (i.e., full vacuum to
the distributor) was expected.  Tell him to set the time time he need only
disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the leak thus created while doing so).
Set the timing to spec.  Reattach the vacuum line.  Adjust carb/idle
accordingly.  And he's done.  This is all assuming there's no actual problem
in the distributor.  When you plug the vacuum line back on the distributor
the idle speed should increase as the timing is advanced by the advance
cannister.  If it doesn't you've likely got a bad advance unit (not a big
deal to fix).  You can check it with a vacuum pump.  Good luck.

Don Carey
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can anyone suggest a good repair service for a C2 AM/FM radio.
Thanks,
Charlie Falson
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charles,
Super job! of putting this info together.
thanks!
Mike

--- Charles Bernhardt <cbernhardt@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Derek, Glen, others:
> 
> I could not find the information I was looking for
> regarding repairing the 
> wiper transmissions, so I went ahead and
> dis-assembled and repaired the 
> ones I was having trouble with.  I created a web
> page to show how I did 
> this. The site is not quite finished but here is the
> web 
> address:  http://www.carols62.com/59/wiper_trans.htm
> 
> I am still looking for some information on the cable
> lengths.  I found an 
> article in the Restorer CD that gave the lengths,
> but the measurements did 
> not match my transmissions very closely.  If anyone
> has a transmission 
> lying around that they could measure, I would
> appreciate receiving any 
> information on the lengths of the cables.  The
> measurement I would like to 
> have is the total length from end to end, including
> the swaged ends.  Be 
> sure to include information such as right or left
> transmission, top or 
> bottom pulley.
> Thanks,
> Charles
> 
> At 10:21 PM 6/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
>>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>Charles, I don't know if the attached will help or
> not, but I have sent to
> >>others and they enjoyed them.  I can't even
> remember where I got them, but I
> >>hope they can help you.
> >>Derek 62 roman red
> >
> >
> >Just saw this message.  I've got one with a shaft
> that doesn't press fit 
> >in tightly and
> >would like whatever info you have.  Does our list
> strip attachments? If 
> >so, best
> >to email me directly.
> >
> >many thx
> >glenn
> >--
> >****************************
> >Glenn Hackbarth
> >School of Music
> >40 East Gammage Parkway
> >Arizona State University
> >Tempe, AZ 85287-0405
> >
> >office:  480-965-3170
> >fax:      480-965-2659
> >http://www.public.asu.edu/~glennh
>
>-----------------------------------------------------
> >For subscriber information, see
>
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
>
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


=====


__________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Derek
Thanks for the response.  I tried some of the plastic screw anchors last
night and they worked great so far.  I agree that there will be some
applications where metal nut plates attached with rivets will be the
only correct repair.  There is also another fastener we use on aircraft
that is called a "rivnut".  I believe another member described it in an
earlier post.  They come in various sizes, 6-32, 8-32 & 10-32 are the
more common.  You can probably purchase these at any local fixed based
operator on the airport but it does take a special tool for
installation.  I also believe that the other gentleman advised that a
mandrel of proper size used in conjunction with a pop rivet tool would
work.  If anyone is interested in these fasteners, try www.fastenal.com
and look for info on Klik Rivet Nut. The tools for installation is
called Thread -Setter Tool found on page 319 of their Vol. 2 catalog.
You could also reach them at 317-243-2800.  Fastenal is a major vendor
of fasteners and other related materials
Thanks again for your input!
Frank
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
	Charles . . . I don't have a C1, but, WOW, you really did a super job
on the website!

	You did such a great job, its almost tempting enough to ask all the
other C2 guys on the list to chip in and get you a C2 project car to
document the same way.  :)

	Seriously, the type of thing you did just really goes to show how great
it is to have a list like this.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

Charles Bernhardt wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Derek, Glen, others:
> 
> I could not find the information I was looking for regarding repairing the
> wiper transmissions, so I went ahead and dis-assembled and repaired the
> ones I was having trouble with.  I created a web page to show how I did
> this. The site is not quite finished but here is the web
> address:  http://www.carols62.com/59/wiper_trans.htm
> 
> I am still looking for some information on the cable lengths.  I found an
> article in the Restorer CD that gave the lengths, but the measurements did
> not match my transmissions very closely.  If anyone has a transmission
> lying around that they could measure, I would appreciate receiving any
> information on the lengths of the cables.  The measurement I would like to
> have is the total length from end to end, including the swaged ends.  Be
> sure to include information such as right or left transmission, top or
> bottom pulley.
> Thanks,
> Charles
> 
> At 10:21 PM 6/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>Charles, I don't know if the attached will help or not, but I have sent to
> >>others and they enjoyed them.  I can't even remember where I got them, but I
> >>hope they can help you.
> >>Derek 62 roman red
> >
> >
> >Just saw this message.  I've got one with a shaft that doesn't press fit
> >in tightly and
> >would like whatever info you have.  Does our list strip attachments? If
> >so, best
> >to email me directly.
> >
> >many thx
> >glenn
> >--
> >****************************
> >Glenn Hackbarth
> >School of Music
> >40 East Gammage Parkway
> >Arizona State University
> >Tempe, AZ 85287-0405
> >
> >office:  480-965-3170
> >fax:      480-965-2659
> >http://www.public.asu.edu/~glennh
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >For subscriber information, see
> >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi all,
My amp gauge shows that the voltage regulator is sticking on charge.
Symptom: Amp needle sticks on full charge
When I smack the voltage regulator, it un-sticks.
This happens intermittently.

After taking it out and pulling the cover off, I found the section in the
service manual. Now I'm confused. I don't know which way to turn the knob,
or bend the tab. I know I should be able to figure this out, but I don't
want to foul things up. The manual says not to file the points. It also says
to set the gap, but gives no measurement.

I guess I need help.

Bob Bower
63 FI SWC
NCRS 30287
"Life Is A One Lap Race!"
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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Subject: RE: Wiper transmissions
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Kudos on your effort to put this info together, Charles.
--- Mike Przano <mike_vette61@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Charles,
> Super job! of putting this info together.
> thanks!
> Mike
> 
> --- Charles Bernhardt <cbernhardt@redacted.email> wrote:
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> > (CRPL)
> >
> -----------------------------------------------------
> > Derek, Glen, others:
> > 
> > I could not find the information I was looking for
> > regarding repairing the 
> > wiper transmissions, so I went ahead and
> > dis-assembled and repaired the 
> > ones I was having trouble with.  I created a web
> > page to show how I did 
> > this. The site is not quite finished but here is the
> > web 
> > address:  http://www.carols62.com/59/wiper_trans.htm
> > 
> > I am still looking for some information on the cable
> > lengths.  I found an 
> > article in the Restorer CD that gave the lengths,
> > but the measurements did 
> > not match my transmissions very closely.  If anyone
> > has a transmission 
> > lying around that they could measure, I would
> > appreciate receiving any 
> > information on the lengths of the cables.  The
> > measurement I would like to 
> > have is the total length from end to end, including
> > the swaged ends.  Be 
> > sure to include information such as right or left
> > transmission, top or 
> > bottom pulley.
> > Thanks,
> > Charles
> > 
> > At 10:21 PM 6/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> > >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> > (CRPL)
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> > >>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> > (CRPL)
> >
> >>-----------------------------------------------------
> > >>Charles, I don't know if the attached will help or
> > not, but I have sent to
> > >>others and they enjoyed them.  I can't even
> > remember where I got them, but I
> > >>hope they can help you.
> > >>Derek 62 roman red
> > >
> > >
> > >Just saw this message.  I've got one with a shaft
> > that doesn't press fit 
> > >in tightly and
> > >would like whatever info you have.  Does our list
> > strip attachments? If 
> > >so, best
> > >to email me directly.
> > >
> > >many thx
> > >glenn
> > >--
> > >****************************
> > >Glenn Hackbarth
> > >School of Music
> > >40 East Gammage Parkway
> > >Arizona State University
> > >Tempe, AZ 85287-0405
> > >
> > >office:  480-965-3170
> > >fax:      480-965-2659
> > >http://www.public.asu.edu/~glennh
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> > >For subscriber information, see
> >
> >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> >
> -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> >
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> 
> 
> =====
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> http://calendar.yahoo.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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__________________________________
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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun  5 11:06:50 2003
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From: Derrick Rushton <drushton2@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: soft top replacement 64
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks Ken, I did not know he had a how to Video.    Derrick

Ken Schurr <kenschurr@redacted.email> wrote:The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Get the frame to fit first. It has more moves than a Hawaiian hula dancer,
so take your time and get it right. I used Al Knocks "How to install your
top" video. I'd watch 5-minutes, go do that, watch another 5-minutes, etc.
It came out great.
Ken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Derrick Rushton" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:12 PM
Subject: soft top replacement 64


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hello All, I am getting ready to put a new soft top on. I bought a top
from Al Knoch and I also bought a new weather strip kit. My car was sold as
a hardtop only so I had to find a frame in addition to installing the rear
deck latches. I have read the manual in addition to some on-line material.
Any tips on how to go about this job would be appreciated. I will have to
adjust the frame to fit as well. Currently there is a 39 year old top on
the frame that has shrunk. Thank you Derrick 64/Santa Barbara
> Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
My power windows are not raising.  Both windows are down and won't go
up.  The problem has been intermittent up until now.  Is there a common
point or part that could be the problem.

I redid the console a while back.  Maybe there is a loose wire in the
switch.  Do both windows use a common wire at some point?

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Len Palmer
64 Roadster
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charles,
Thanks for posting this! Now I've got to get my bookmarks organized so 
that I can find it again.
John from Ventura

Charles Bernhardt wrote:

>
> Derek, Glen, others:
> I could not find the information I was looking for regarding repairing 
> the wiper transmissions, so I went ahead and dis-assembled and 
> repaired the ones I was having trouble with.  I created a web page to 
> show how I did this. The site is not quite finished but here is the 
> web address:  http://www.carols62.com/59/wiper_trans.htm
>
> I am still looking for some information on the cable lengths.  I found 
> an article in the Restorer CD that gave the lengths, but the 
> measurements did not match my transmissions very closely.  If anyone 
> has a transmission lying around that they could measure, I would 
> appreciate receiving any information on the lengths of the cables.  
> The measurement I would like to have is the total length from end to 
> end, including the swaged ends.  Be sure to include information such 
> as right or left transmission, top or bottom pulley.
> Thanks,
> Charles
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Might be relay . . . I think it is on the driver's door pillar, under the
kick panel, but don't hold me to it . . . jpd
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I set my 1965 327/300 with an AFB @redacted.email 8 degrees with the vacuum 
disconnected and plugged with a golf tee.
6-8-10 degrees is a range depending on engine condition , fuel, idle 
quality and speed .ect.
Jack

On Thursday, June 5, 2003, at 06:42 AM, sharpej@redacted.email wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> What's the advance at idle for a 327/300 in the 62?
>
> Derek
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Carey [mailto:doncarey@redacted.email]
> Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 3:06 PM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Re: AFB Vacuum
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
>>  My tune-up guy tells me that he can't set the
>> timing because the car is pulling a full vacuum all the time.  Has
> something
>> to do with my distributor and he tells me I can remove the distributor
>> and have "something" done to it so it will work with the bottom
>> vacuum.  I bought a "restricted" air-flow attachment for the carb
>> which I thought may solve the problem without having to pull the
>> distributor, but it doesn't fit, it is too large for the vacuum port
>> opening on the front of the carb. I would fit nicely on the rear of
>> the carb though!!  Anyone know what my mechanic is talking about?
>
> Perhaps your mechanic just is not familiar with something older than 
> he is.
> If I understand your description correctly what you are describing 
> used to
> be a relative norm.  Full advance from the distributor (i.e., full 
> vacuum to
> the distributor) was expected.  Tell him to set the time time he need 
> only
> disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the leak thus created while doing 
> so).
> Set the timing to spec.  Reattach the vacuum line.  Adjust carb/idle
> accordingly.  And he's done.  This is all assuming there's no actual 
> problem
> in the distributor.  When you plug the vacuum line back on the 
> distributor
> the idle speed should increase as the timing is advanced by the advance
> cannister.  If it doesn't you've likely got a bad advance unit (not a 
> big
> deal to fix).  You can check it with a vacuum pump.  Good luck.
>
> Don Carey
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/5/2003 7:43:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sharpej@redacted.email writes:


> What's the advance at idle for a 327/300 in the 62?
> 

Derek -

       Base timing (vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) is 8 degrees 
BTDC; the 1110984 distributor has a centrifugal advance curve that starts at 
about 850 rpm and adds 16-20 degrees at 3200 rpm and a max of 22-26 degrees by 
4600 rpm. The 1116201 vacuum advance unit starts at 8" Hg. vacuum, and adds a max 
of 15 degrees advance at 15" Hg. "Total Timing" (vacuum advance disconnected 
and plugged) is 8* (initial) plus 26* (centrifugal) = 34 degrees, which is 
pretty much the "standard" total timing number that street-driven small-block 
Chevys like the best - hasn't changed in 40 years.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: 63 Voltage Regulator
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-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/5/2003 12:00:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
bobbower@redacted.email writes:


> After taking it out and pulling the cover off, I found the section in the
> service manual. Now I'm confused. I don't know which way to turn the knob,
> or bend the tab. I know I should be able to figure this out, but I don't
> want to foul things up. The manual says not to file the points. It also says
> to set the gap, but gives no measurement.
> 

Bob -

       You'll find all the voltage regulator adjustment specs on page 14-5 of 
the 1963 Corvette Shop Manual, in the Specifications section, under Engine 
Electrical.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: 64 power windows won't raise
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In a message dated 6/5/2003 2:08:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LPalmer@redacted.email writes:


> My power windows are not raising.  Both windows are down and won't go
> up.  The problem has been intermittent up until now.  Is there a common
> point or part that could be the problem.
> 
> I redid the console a while back.  Maybe there is a loose wire in the
> switch.  Do both windows use a common wire at some point?
> 

Len -

       Yes, they do - power is fed to the windows through a self-resetting 
circuit breaker in a clip on the inner driver's side hinge pillar just above the 
top edge of the kickpad, adjacent to the similar circuit breaker for the 
headlight motors; if it's OK, you should see 12 volts to ground at both terminals 
(which may be corroded). One wire from the circuit breaker for the windows 
plugs into a cavity in the fuse block (power source), and the other wire goes 
into the instrument panel wiring harness and ends up at the switch in the 
console.

John Hinckley
'67 300 
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>Can you run tubeless tires with the riveted version of the C1 rims?  Are
>there any precautions (i.e. run tubes in them, powder coat them, seal
>them with ???)  The feedback that I got back on the last question on C1
>rims was that welded rims came out with the addition of tubeless tires
>on C1 possibly to prevent leaking.  Can you run radials with the riveted
>rims or will the overload them like Coker advertises (actually I think
>they state this for original rims welded or riveted)?  What width
>whitewalls were used in '60?  Also what brand of tires was used?
>

You can run tubeless tires on rivetted rims.  Done all the time.  Don't know 
what Coker jas to say about running radials on C1 rims, whether riveted or 
welded.  But I do know people do it all the time.  I'd wager that the 
majority of C1s are running around with tubeless radials.

I had always believed that the welded rims replaced the rivetted ones to 
prevent leaks when tubeless tires came out.  But i believe most people run 
tubeless tires on their rivetted rims with no problems.  However, when I 
restored my rivetted rims, I put a dot of silicone sealer on the rivet on 
the inside of the rim, just to be sure.  Can't hurt.

_________________________________________________________________
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Hi Guys,
I'm close to install the engine back on the frame on my 68 vette. 
Before putting the body back on the frame, I'd like to finish up all the 
exhaust system piping.

My idea is to install the Hooker Super Competition Headers (1 7/8" inlet 3" 
outlet ceramic coated), then 3 to 2 1/2 reducers, all piping alluminized 
steel 2 1/2" till the tail, after the tranny the H type balance tube Pipe, 
and 2 Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. (2.5" center inlet, 2.5" offset outlet)

Has anyone tried this combination? 
Any remarks about the Headers? 
Is there enough clearance to install them?
Are the bends between the rear end and the mufflers for sale somewhere?
Is the disposition center inlet,offset outlet right on the mufflers?

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Dan
 intelNet WebMail
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Dan,

Don't know about 68's.  Mine is a 67.
But just a word to the wise.
This list is for STOCK stuff.
Maybe you didn't know.

Roger Coen
"If it isn't stock..let it rot"

----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Schildknecht
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 8:05 AM
Subject: 68' 427 exhaust system


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Guys,
I'm close to install the engine back on the frame on my 68 vette.
Before putting the body back on the frame, I'd like to finish up all the
exhaust system piping.

My idea is to install the Hooker Super Competition Headers (1 7/8" inlet 3"
outlet ceramic coated), then 3 to 2 1/2 reducers, all piping alluminized
steel 2 1/2" till the tail, after the tranny the H type balance tube Pipe,
and 2 Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. (2.5" center inlet, 2.5" offset outlet)

Has anyone tried this combination?
Any remarks about the Headers?
Is there enough clearance to install them?
Are the bends between the rear end and the mufflers for sale somewhere?
Is the disposition center inlet,offset outlet right on the mufflers?

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Dan
 intelNet WebMail
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
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Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 10:28:42 -0500
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A friend of mine has a '72 454 that put on ceramic coated headers and
stayed with stock exhaust back.

 

Supposedly the headers were designed to fit the small confines of the
Corvette engine compartment and the ceramic coating is supposed to keep
down the heat.  But, in reality, he had to bend and/or beat some of the
pipes to clear the steering box and frame.  And the interior of his car
is extremely hot, even with the top down on his car.

 

I have a '72 454 and I'm sticking with stock exhaust manifolds, etc.
>From previous discussions on this subject, unless you are going racing,
you probably won't get that much advantage by going to headers
(paraphrased from previous discussions.)

 

Just my .02 on the subject.

 

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible
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From: "Daniel Schildknecht" <daniels@redacted.email>
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Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 12:09:46 -0600
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-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for your comments Scott,
I really appreciate them. The heat insulation / dissipation is an issue I'll 
have to consider well in this matter, and even more here in the Dominican 
Republic, where it's always hot. The header fit was also something which 
interested me, mostly by reading comments about the problems during the 
installation.

I prefer to ask you guys for previous experiences you may have had or heard 
about, than running into something new by myself. 

I also thank the others for reminding me the originality of the vehicles in 
this list, which I respect. But then again, I don't find technical 
questions "scandalous" to the list? If so, please excuse me.

Thanks

Dan

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> A friend of mine has a '72 454 that put on ceramic coated headers and
> stayed with stock exhaust back.
> 
> Supposedly the headers were designed to fit the small confines of the
> Corvette engine compartment and the ceramic coating is supposed to keep
> down the heat.  But, in reality, he had to bend and/or beat some of the
> pipes to clear the steering box and frame.  And the interior of his car
> is extremely hot, even with the top down on his car.
> 
> I have a '72 454 and I'm sticking with stock exhaust manifolds, etc.
> >From previous discussions on this subject, unless you are going racing,
> you probably won't get that much advantage by going to headers
> (paraphrased from previous discussions.)
> 
> Just my .02 on the subject.
> 
> Scott Sparkman
> 
> '72 LS5 convertible
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com



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Dan,
Don't be offended! We are all Corvette people on this list. Some people 
take originality a little more serious than others.
John from Ventura
57/270, 67 Coupe & 00

>I also thank the others for reminding me the originality of the vehicles in 
>this list, which I respect. But then again, I don't find technical 
>questions "scandalous" to the list? If so, please excuse me.
>Thanks
>Dan
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Dan, John and all others who I 'offended',

I sure didn't mean to offend anyone.  If I did please accept my apology.

Roger

---- Original Message -----
From: john costales
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: 68' 427 exhaust system


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Dan,
Don't be offended! We are all Corvette people on this list. Some people
take originality a little more serious than others.
John from Ventura
57/270, 67 Coupe & 00

>I also thank the others for reminding me the originality of the vehicles in
>this list, which I respect. But then again, I don't find technical
>questions "scandalous" to the list? If so, please excuse me.
>Thanks
>Dan
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I have a car radio speaker tha I want to have reconed.  It is for a 1956.  Does anyone know of a reputable service?

Someone posted about two years ago that they had a speaker reconed.  If so, then I would appreciate a contact.

Gene
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Subject: Re: recone car radio speaker
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Gene,

I don't have a specific recommendation, but you can do a bit of research,
here's what I did about a year ago.

1) Go to www.infospace.com
2) Under Yellow Pages, click on FIND A BUSINESS    (Optionally you can click
on: Search Near Address instead)
3) In: Search for this business:    enter:    Speakers Rebuild & Repair
4) Check the box: Type of business
5) Optionally enter City to limit search area
6) Enter your state





----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene.A.Paulsgrove-1" <gpaulsgrove@redacted.email>
To: "Corvette Restoration and Preservation List" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 12:22 PM
Subject: recone car radio speaker


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have a car radio speaker tha I want to have reconed.  It is for a 1956.
Does anyone know of a reputable service?

Someone posted about two years ago that they had a speaker reconed.  If so,
then I would appreciate a contact.

Gene
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Subject: Piston Ring End Gap
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I've been trying to file the ring ends with poor success. I am off to buy the
proper tool for this tomorrow so the gaps stay square, but I've got a question
about the one ring I've "completed." The KB pistons I'm using recommended a
.026 gap on the top ring. Due to my own stupidity, I have .026 on the edge of
the ring that meets the piston wall, but it opens up to about .035 on the
inner edge of the ring. Is the ring now junk, or is it OK to use it? If it's
junk, has anyone ever purchased just one ring? Or am I now looking at another
set (at least there will be lots to practice with). Thanks.
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
they sell rings for 1 piston,you will get all 3 rings.

>From: "tgrshrk99" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: >Subject:
Piston Ring End Gap >Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 23:37:00 -0400 > >The Corvette
Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >I've been trying
to file the ring ends with poor success. I am off to buy the >proper tool
for this tomorrow so the gaps stay square, but I've got a question >about
the one ring I've "completed." The KB pistons I'm using recommended a
>.026 gap on the top ring. Due to my own stupidity, I have .026 on the
edge of >the ring that meets the piston wall, but it opens up to about
.035 on the >inner edge of the ring. Is the ring now junk, or is it OK to
use it? If it's >junk, has anyone ever purchased just one ring? Or am I
now looking at another >set (at least there will be lots to practice
with). Thanks. >-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl >Send other
comments or questions about this list to >John C. Broman, Jr. at
jcbroman@redacted.email >CRPL homepage http://www.corvette-resto.com

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Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for a
customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection along
with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
$7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to pursue
all avenues before making a leap.

thanks for any help you can provide,

rex smith

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Howdy,

I'm in SJ also with a yellow 67/427 coupe.

Good luck finding the original engine.  A made up original is more likely.
You will enjoy the list.

Roger Coen NCRS 30571

From: Rex Smith
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:35 AM
Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for a
customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection along
with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
$7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to pursue
all avenues before making a leap.

thanks for any help you can provide,

rex smith

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks,

BTW, I am open to a made up original.  However, I want the engine to look 
like the original including the fuel injection.  How close can I get to 
original appearance with a made-up engine?  Is there aftermarket fuel 
injection that looks like the original?

thanks, rex


>From: "coen730" <coen730@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 05:44:56 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Howdy,
>
>I'm in SJ also with a yellow 67/427 coupe.
>
>Good luck finding the original engine.  A made up original is more likely.
>You will enjoy the list.
>
>Roger Coen NCRS 30571
>
>From: Rex Smith
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:35 AM
>Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for a
>customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
>differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection 
>along
>with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
>way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
>Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
>$7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to pursue
>all avenues before making a leap.
>
>thanks for any help you can provide,
>
>rex smith
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>-----------------------------------------------------
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>-----------------------------------------------------
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>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

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Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Rex,

Far as I know you will have to use original parts and you will have to find
them thru leg work.
Others on the list know MUCH more than I do. Just wait and they will respond.

Have you joined the National Corvette Restorers Society yet
(http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/page=Join_NCRS.html)?

Worthwhile money spent.

Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Rex Smith
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks,

BTW, I am open to a made up original.  However, I want the engine to look
like the original including the fuel injection.  How close can I get to
original appearance with a made-up engine?  Is there aftermarket fuel
injection that looks like the original?

thanks, rex


>From: "coen730" <coen730@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 05:44:56 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Howdy,
>
>I'm in SJ also with a yellow 67/427 coupe.
>
>Good luck finding the original engine.  A made up original is more likely.
>You will enjoy the list.
>
>Roger Coen NCRS 30571
>
>From: Rex Smith
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:35 AM
>Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for a
>customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
>differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection
>along
>with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
>way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
>Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
>$7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to pursue
>all avenues before making a leap.
>
>thanks for any help you can provide,
>
>rex smith
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
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>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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>-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Nope, but will probably do.  This is the first time I've restored a 
Corvette; previous work has been on early Fords.

thanks, rex


>From: "coen730" <coen730@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 06:07:51 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Rex,
>
>Far as I know you will have to use original parts and you will have to find
>them thru leg work.
>Others on the list know MUCH more than I do. Just wait and they will 
>respond.
>
>Have you joined the National Corvette Restorers Society yet
>(http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/page=Join_NCRS.html)?
>
>Worthwhile money spent.
>
>Roger
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rex Smith
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:59 AM
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Thanks,
>
>BTW, I am open to a made up original.  However, I want the engine to look
>like the original including the fuel injection.  How close can I get to
>original appearance with a made-up engine?  Is there aftermarket fuel
>injection that looks like the original?
>
>thanks, rex
>
>
> >From: "coen730" <coen730@redacted.email>
> >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
> >To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> >Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
> >Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 05:44:56 -0700
> >
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >Howdy,
> >
> >I'm in SJ also with a yellow 67/427 coupe.
> >
> >Good luck finding the original engine.  A made up original is more 
>likely.
> >You will enjoy the list.
> >
> >Roger Coen NCRS 30571
> >
> >From: Rex Smith
> >To: crpl@redacted.email
> >Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:35 AM
> >Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
> >
> >
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for 
>a
> >customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
> >differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection
> >along
> >with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
> >way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
> >Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
> >$7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to 
>pursue
> >all avenues before making a leap.
> >
> >thanks for any help you can provide,
> >
> >rex smith
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
> >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >For subscriber information, see
> >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >For subscriber information, see
> >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>-----------------------------------------------------
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>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/7/2003 8:59:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
black33ford@redacted.email writes:


> BTW, I am open to a made up original.  However, I want the engine to look 
> like the original including the fuel injection.  How close can I get to 
> original appearance with a made-up engine?  Is there aftermarket fuel 
> injection that looks like the original?
> 

Rex -

       Welcome to the list! I hope your customer understands the costs 
involved in a "correct" fuelie creation/restoration; a properly-restored fuel 
injection unit and distributor goes for $5K-$7K these days, with another $4K-$6K in 
the engine under it, and there is no aftermarket fuel injection that looks 
like the original unit (the original was mechanical, and all the aftermarket 
stuff is electronic).

       As posted earlier, recommend you join the NCRS (you can join on-line 
at www.ncrs.org); it's the best Corvette restoration resource there is.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Rex, welcome to the list. Check out http://www.engineslimited.com/ for
the engine. You can e-mail Randy, the guy in charge, and he can tell you if
he has the engine you need. My '63 Corvette engine came from him, and it was
exactly as advertised. Good guy. Fuel Injection units and transmissions are
available, but they are costly depending on what you want for "matching
numbers." Join the NCRS as Roger suggested, their Driveline magazine is full
of ads for all the sources of Corvette stuff.
Ken Schurr

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rex Smith" <black33ford@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 8:35 AM
Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hi, I'm new to the list and have embarked on a frame-off restoration for a
> customer.  The car does not have the original power train except for the
> differential.  The customer wants the original engine w/fuel injection
along
> with the 4 speed tranny.  I'm hoping I can get some pointers for the best
> way to locate these elements and what I can expect to pay.  The local
> Corvette shop (in San Jose, Ca) told me that I could expect to pay around
> $7K for the engine w/fuel injection; restored of course.  I want to pursue
> all avenues before making a leap.
>
> thanks for any help you can provide,
>
> rex smith
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Rex,

I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000? You
might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.

Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection, and
transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate that
setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However, money
spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's more
up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.

It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a part
number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for the
generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of the
parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it have
the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3 months
to 2 weeks before the car was built.

The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or 350
engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she really
wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
restored one that's for sale.

However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block with
the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
casting date,
which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a specifications
guide which will provide important information here. After you have located
the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must look for
the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.

In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of the
block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal dies.
Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine number
vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper tools.

The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They must
all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like the
water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
expensive, and can take a long time.

If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be a
rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a sequence
number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air cleaner,
linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.

Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a proper
1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be correct,
which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term and
costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is well if
he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
necessary.

My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the project.

Noland Adams
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Noland,

Well said!!  You need to write another book.

Dave Juergens
' 57 2x4 SACC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 1:21 PM
Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Rex,
>
> I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
> engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000?
You
> might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
>
> Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection,
and
> transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate
that
> setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
> standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However,
money
> spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's more
> up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
>
> It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a
part
> number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for the
> generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of
the
> parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
> installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it
have
> the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3
months
> to 2 weeks before the car was built.
>
> The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or 350
> engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she
really
> wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
> restored one that's for sale.
>
> However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block
with
> the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
> casting date,
> which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a
specifications
> guide which will provide important information here. After you have
located
> the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
> cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
> machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must look
for
> the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
>
> In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of
the
> block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal dies.
> Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
> contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine
number
> vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper
tools.
>
> The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
> manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They
must
> all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like
the
> water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
> expensive, and can take a long time.
>
> If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be
a
> rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
> injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a
sequence
> number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air
cleaner,
> linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
>
> Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a
proper
> 1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be
correct,
> which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term and
> costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is well
if
> he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
> necessary.
>
> My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
> really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the
project.
>
> Noland Adams
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun  7 15:36:09 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks Noland,

What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, the car 
has been in the family for a good number of years, so another car is not 
what it's about for them.  At this point in time, I'm gathering the 
information they need to make a decision about how they want to go.  They 
did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but they wanted it to look and feel 
authentic.  However, when I give them this feedback I won't be surprised if 
they would rather do as you suggested and get a later model power train.
I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be spent, but if 
we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result won't be worth the 
money spent.
Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts before 
proceeding.

thanks, rex

>From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Rex,
>
>I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
>engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000? 
>You
>might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
>
>Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection, and
>transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate that
>setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
>standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However, money
>spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's more
>up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
>
>It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a 
>part
>number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for the
>generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of the
>parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
>installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it have
>the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3 
>months
>to 2 weeks before the car was built.
>
>The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or 350
>engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she 
>really
>wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
>restored one that's for sale.
>
>However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block 
>with
>the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
>casting date,
>which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a 
>specifications
>guide which will provide important information here. After you have located
>the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
>cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
>machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must look 
>for
>the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
>
>In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of the
>block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal dies.
>Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
>contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine 
>number
>vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper tools.
>
>The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
>manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They 
>must
>all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like 
>the
>water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
>expensive, and can take a long time.
>
>If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be a
>rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
>injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a 
>sequence
>number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air cleaner,
>linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
>
>Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a 
>proper
>1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be correct,
>which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term and
>costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is well 
>if
>he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
>necessary.
>
>My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
>really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the 
>project.
>
>Noland Adams
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

_________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Rex, welcome to the list. I have to agree with the other members. My father 
and I are rebuilding a 61 with dual quads and we spent over $7000 on getting 
the engine rebuilt
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
One other thing to consider is what the corvette will be used for. I'm 
local
(Mountain View) and have a fairly original '61 with fuel injection. If 
I was
looking for a car to drive I'd skip the fuel injection - there are 
better ways
to get 315 HP today. If the owner has documentation that it was a FI
car originally then it might make sense to put it back to original 
spec's,
otherwise it is likely to end up costing more than the car would be 
worth.
Based on my experience for those parts I've needed and the prices I've
seen it could easily end up costing more than Nolands estimate.

jason

On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 03:35  PM, Rex Smith wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Noland,
>
> What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, 
> the car has been in the family for a good number of years, so another 
> car is not what it's about for them.  At this point in time, I'm 
> gathering the information they need to make a decision about how they 
> want to go.  They did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but they 
> wanted it to look and feel authentic.  However, when I give them this 
> feedback I won't be surprised if they would rather do as you suggested 
> and get a later model power train.
> I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be spent, 
> but if we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result won't be 
> worth the money spent.
> Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts 
> before proceeding.
>
> thanks, rex
>
>> From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
>> Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>> Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>> Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
>>
>> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>> Rex,
>>
>> I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without 
>> the
>> engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you 
>> $7,000? You
>> might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
>>
>> Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel 
>> injection, and
>> transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to 
>> duplicate that
>> setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it 
>> to a
>> standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However, 
>> money
>> spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's 
>> more
>> up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
>>
>> It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- 
>> have a part
>> number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part 
>> for the
>> generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All 
>> of the
>> parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, 
>> and
>> installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must 
>> it have
>> the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 
>> 3 months
>> to 2 weeks before the car was built.
>>
>> The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, 
>> or 350
>> engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she 
>> really
>> wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to 
>> buy a
>> restored one that's for sale.
>>
>> However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 
>> block with
>> the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a 
>> proper
>> casting date,
>> which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a 
>> specifications
>> guide which will provide important information here. After you have 
>> located
>> the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is 
>> not
>> cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, 
>> and
>> machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must 
>> look for
>> the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
>>
>> In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front 
>> of the
>> block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal 
>> dies.
>> Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another 
>> part
>> contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine 
>> number
>> vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper 
>> tools.
>>
>> The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
>> manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. 
>> They must
>> all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- 
>> like the
>> water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
>> expensive, and can take a long time.
>>
>> If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it 
>> must be a
>> rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
>> injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a 
>> sequence
>> number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air 
>> cleaner,
>> linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
>>
>> Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and 
>> a proper
>> 1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be 
>> correct,
>> which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long 
>> term and
>> costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is 
>> well if
>> he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money 
>> may be
>> necessary.
>>
>> My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is 
>> it
>> really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the 
>> project.
>>
>> Noland Adams
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>> For subscriber information, see
>> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>> Send other comments or questions about this list to
>> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun  7 18:26:32 2003
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From: "Rex Smith" <black33ford@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Yes, it depends on what the customer wants and what he intends to do with 
the car.  I can now sketch out some options for him.  I think he's at the 
stage where he's not sure what he wants until he has some options to think 
about; that's often the case.  The options I'll present are as follows...

I.  Do it by the numbers...lotsa money, lotsa time.
II.  Do it original, ignore the numbers...lotsa money, maybe a little less 
time.  Waste of good original parts and car isn't worth as much.
III. Use crate motor, etc...fastest, cheapest; will make a great looking 
driver.

A couple of questions...

1. What is the best reference book for me to get to understand numbers?
2. The ID on a plate rivited to the steering wheel (and on the registration) 
is 108675101919.  Is there intelligence in this number, or is it just a 
number?  Also, is it the right number to judge the official manuf date of 
the car, or is that number to found somewhere else?

thanks for all your help,

rex

>From: Jason Redgrave <jredgrave@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:14:19 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>One other thing to consider is what the corvette will be used for. I'm 
>local
>(Mountain View) and have a fairly original '61 with fuel injection. If I 
>was
>looking for a car to drive I'd skip the fuel injection - there are better 
>ways
>to get 315 HP today. If the owner has documentation that it was a FI
>car originally then it might make sense to put it back to original spec's,
>otherwise it is likely to end up costing more than the car would be worth.
>Based on my experience for those parts I've needed and the prices I've
>seen it could easily end up costing more than Nolands estimate.
>
>jason
>
>On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 03:35  PM, Rex Smith wrote:
>
>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>Thanks Noland,
>>
>>What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, the 
>>car has been in the family for a good number of years, so another car is 
>>not what it's about for them.  At this point in time, I'm gathering the 
>>information they need to make a decision about how they want to go.  They 
>>did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but they wanted it to look and feel 
>>authentic.  However, when I give them this feedback I won't be surprised 
>>if they would rather do as you suggested and get a later model power 
>>train.
>>I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be spent, but 
>>if we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result won't be worth 
>>the money spent.
>>Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts before 
>>proceeding.
>>
>>thanks, rex
>>
>>>From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
>>>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>>>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>>>Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>>>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
>>>
>>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>>Rex,
>>>
>>>I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
>>>engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000? 
>>>You
>>>might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
>>>
>>>Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection, 
>>>and
>>>transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate 
>>>that
>>>setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
>>>standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However, 
>>>money
>>>spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's 
>>>more
>>>up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
>>>
>>>It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a 
>>>part
>>>number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for 
>>>the
>>>generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of 
>>>the
>>>parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
>>>installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it 
>>>have
>>>the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3 
>>>months
>>>to 2 weeks before the car was built.
>>>
>>>The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or 
>>>350
>>>engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she 
>>>really
>>>wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
>>>restored one that's for sale.
>>>
>>>However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block 
>>>with
>>>the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
>>>casting date,
>>>which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a 
>>>specifications
>>>guide which will provide important information here. After you have 
>>>located
>>>the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
>>>cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
>>>machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must 
>>>look for
>>>the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
>>>
>>>In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of 
>>>the
>>>block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal 
>>>dies.
>>>Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
>>>contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine 
>>>number
>>>vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper 
>>>tools.
>>>
>>>The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
>>>manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They 
>>>must
>>>all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like 
>>>the
>>>water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
>>>expensive, and can take a long time.
>>>
>>>If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be 
>>>a
>>>rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
>>>injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a 
>>>sequence
>>>number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air 
>>>cleaner,
>>>linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
>>>
>>>Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a 
>>>proper
>>>1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be 
>>>correct,
>>>which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term 
>>>and
>>>costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is 
>>>well if
>>>he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
>>>necessary.
>>>
>>>My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
>>>really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the 
>>>project.
>>>
>>>Noland Adams
>>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>>For subscriber information, see
>>>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>>>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>>>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>>>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
>>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>For subscriber information, see
>>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

_________________________________________________________________
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From: Eddie Main <evmain@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Rex,

    This is the formula that seems to work for me:     Corvette Restoration =
estimation squared!

Eddie

Rex Smith wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Yes, it depends on what the customer wants and what he intends to do with
> the car.  I can now sketch out some options for him.  I think he's at the
> stage where he's not sure what he wants until he has some options to think
> about; that's often the case.  The options I'll present are as follows...
>
> I.  Do it by the numbers...lotsa money, lotsa time.
> II.  Do it original, ignore the numbers...lotsa money, maybe a little less
> time.  Waste of good original parts and car isn't worth as much.
> III. Use crate motor, etc...fastest, cheapest; will make a great looking
> driver.
>
> A couple of questions...
>
> 1. What is the best reference book for me to get to understand numbers?
> 2. The ID on a plate rivited to the steering wheel (and on the registration)
> is 108675101919.  Is there intelligence in this number, or is it just a
> number?  Also, is it the right number to judge the official manuf date of
> the car, or is that number to found somewhere else?
>
> thanks for all your help,
>
> rex
>
> >From: Jason Redgrave <jredgrave@redacted.email>
> >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
> >To: crpl@redacted.email
> >Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
> >Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:14:19 -0700
> >
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >One other thing to consider is what the corvette will be used for. I'm
> >local
> >(Mountain View) and have a fairly original '61 with fuel injection. If I
> >was
> >looking for a car to drive I'd skip the fuel injection - there are better
> >ways
> >to get 315 HP today. If the owner has documentation that it was a FI
> >car originally then it might make sense to put it back to original spec's,
> >otherwise it is likely to end up costing more than the car would be worth.
> >Based on my experience for those parts I've needed and the prices I've
> >seen it could easily end up costing more than Nolands estimate.
> >
> >jason
> >
> >On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 03:35  PM, Rex Smith wrote:
> >
> >>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>Thanks Noland,
> >>
> >>What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, the
> >>car has been in the family for a good number of years, so another car is
> >>not what it's about for them.  At this point in time, I'm gathering the
> >>information they need to make a decision about how they want to go.  They
> >>did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but they wanted it to look and feel
> >>authentic.  However, when I give them this feedback I won't be surprised
> >>if they would rather do as you suggested and get a later model power
> >>train.
> >>I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be spent, but
> >>if we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result won't be worth
> >>the money spent.
> >>Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts before
> >>proceeding.
> >>
> >>thanks, rex
> >>
> >>>From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
> >>>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
> >>>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> >>>Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
> >>>Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
> >>>
> >>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >>>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>>Rex,
> >>>
> >>>I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
> >>>engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000?
> >>>You
> >>>might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
> >>>
> >>>Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection,
> >>>and
> >>>transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate
> >>>that
> >>>setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
> >>>standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However,
> >>>money
> >>>spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's
> >>>more
> >>>up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
> >>>
> >>>It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a
> >>>part
> >>>number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for
> >>>the
> >>>generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of
> >>>the
> >>>parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
> >>>installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it
> >>>have
> >>>the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3
> >>>months
> >>>to 2 weeks before the car was built.
> >>>
> >>>The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or
> >>>350
> >>>engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she
> >>>really
> >>>wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
> >>>restored one that's for sale.
> >>>
> >>>However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block
> >>>with
> >>>the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
> >>>casting date,
> >>>which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a
> >>>specifications
> >>>guide which will provide important information here. After you have
> >>>located
> >>>the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
> >>>cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
> >>>machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must
> >>>look for
> >>>the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
> >>>
> >>>In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of
> >>>the
> >>>block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal
> >>>dies.
> >>>Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
> >>>contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine
> >>>number
> >>>vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper
> >>>tools.
> >>>
> >>>The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
> >>>manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They
> >>>must
> >>>all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like
> >>>the
> >>>water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
> >>>expensive, and can take a long time.
> >>>
> >>>If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be
> >>>a
> >>>rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
> >>>injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a
> >>>sequence
> >>>number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air
> >>>cleaner,
> >>>linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
> >>>
> >>>Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a
> >>>proper
> >>>1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be
> >>>correct,
> >>>which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term
> >>>and
> >>>costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is
> >>>well if
> >>>he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
> >>>necessary.
> >>>
> >>>My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
> >>>really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the
> >>>project.
> >>>
> >>>Noland Adams
> >>>-----------------------------------------------------
> >>>For subscriber information, see
> >>>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >>>Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >>>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >>>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> >>
> >>_________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Gene, You might try this link for a 56 speaker. It sounds to good to be 
true.
http://vettes.com/parts/ViewParts.asp?catid=24&subid=67&part=CA0786&mde=rtl
John from Ventura,
57/270, Wonderbar parts out for chrome

>I have a car radio speaker that I want to have reconed.  It is for a 1956.
>Does anyone know of a reputable service?
>Someone posted about two years ago that they had a speaker reconed.  If so,
>then I would appreciate a contact.
>Gene
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
	Let me join all the other guys in welcoming you to the list!

	Just in case no one else already mentioned it, there is a ton of very
useful information in the searchable archives.  Its back on the home
page where you subscribed.

	Good luck with your project.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
It tells you when it was built. 10867S101919 was built in Oct. 1960. 
Nothing about
options though.

jason

On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 06:26  PM, Rex Smith wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Yes, it depends on what the customer wants and what he intends to do 
> with the car.  I can now sketch out some options for him.  I think 
> he's at the stage where he's not sure what he wants until he has some 
> options to think about; that's often the case.  The options I'll 
> present are as follows...
>
> I.  Do it by the numbers...lotsa money, lotsa time.
> II.  Do it original, ignore the numbers...lotsa money, maybe a little 
> less time.  Waste of good original parts and car isn't worth as much.
> III. Use crate motor, etc...fastest, cheapest; will make a great 
> looking driver.
>
> A couple of questions...
>
> 1. What is the best reference book for me to get to understand numbers?
> 2. The ID on a plate rivited to the steering wheel (and on the 
> registration) is 108675101919.  Is there intelligence in this number, 
> or is it just a number?  Also, is it the right number to judge the 
> official manuf date of the car, or is that number to found somewhere 
> else?
>
> thanks for all your help,
>
> rex
>
>> From: Jason Redgrave <jredgrave@redacted.email>
>> Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>> To: crpl@redacted.email
>> Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>> Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:14:19 -0700
>>
>> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>> One other thing to consider is what the corvette will be used for. 
>> I'm local
>> (Mountain View) and have a fairly original '61 with fuel injection. 
>> If I was
>> looking for a car to drive I'd skip the fuel injection - there are 
>> better ways
>> to get 315 HP today. If the owner has documentation that it was a FI
>> car originally then it might make sense to put it back to original 
>> spec's,
>> otherwise it is likely to end up costing more than the car would be 
>> worth.
>> Based on my experience for those parts I've needed and the prices I've
>> seen it could easily end up costing more than Nolands estimate.
>>
>> jason
>>
>> On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 03:35  PM, Rex Smith wrote:
>>
>>> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>> -----------------------------------------------------
>>> Thanks Noland,
>>>
>>> What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, 
>>> the car has been in the family for a good number of years, so 
>>> another car is not what it's about for them.  At this point in time, 
>>> I'm gathering the information they need to make a decision about how 
>>> they want to go.  They did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but 
>>> they wanted it to look and feel authentic.  However, when I give 
>>> them this feedback I won't be surprised if they would rather do as 
>>> you suggested and get a later model power train.
>>> I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be 
>>> spent, but if we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result 
>>> won't be worth the money spent.
>>> Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts 
>>> before proceeding.
>>>
>>> thanks, rex
>>>
>>>> From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
>>>> Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>>>> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>>>> Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
>>>> Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
>>>>
>>>> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>>> -----------------------------------------------------
>>>> Rex,
>>>>
>>>> I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 
>>>> without the
>>>> engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you 
>>>> $7,000? You
>>>> might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
>>>>
>>>> Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel 
>>>> injection, and
>>>> transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to 
>>>> duplicate that
>>>> setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore 
>>>> it to a
>>>> standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. 
>>>> However, money
>>>> spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard 
>>>> (it's more
>>>> up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging 
>>>> guidelines.
>>>>
>>>> It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- 
>>>> have a part
>>>> number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part 
>>>> for the
>>>> generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. 
>>>> All of the
>>>> parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly 
>>>> date, and
>>>> installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must 
>>>> it have
>>>> the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; 
>>>> usually 3 months
>>>> to 2 weeks before the car was built.
>>>>
>>>> The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, 
>>>> or 350
>>>> engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or 
>>>> she really
>>>> wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to 
>>>> buy a
>>>> restored one that's for sale.
>>>>
>>>> However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 
>>>> block with
>>>> the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a 
>>>> proper
>>>> casting date,
>>>> which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a 
>>>> specifications
>>>> guide which will provide important information here. After you have 
>>>> located
>>>> the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it 
>>>> is not
>>>> cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned 
>>>> up, and
>>>> machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you 
>>>> must look for
>>>> the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
>>>>
>>>> In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the 
>>>> front of the
>>>> block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using 
>>>> metal dies.
>>>> Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; 
>>>> another part
>>>> contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the 
>>>> engine number
>>>> vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the 
>>>> proper tools.
>>>>
>>>> The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, 
>>>> exhaust
>>>> manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. 
>>>> They must
>>>> all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of 
>>>> it- like the
>>>> water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
>>>> expensive, and can take a long time.
>>>>
>>>> If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it 
>>>> must be a
>>>> rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the 
>>>> fuel
>>>> injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and 
>>>> a sequence
>>>> number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air 
>>>> cleaner,
>>>> linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
>>>>
>>>> Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, 
>>>> and a proper
>>>> 1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be 
>>>> correct,
>>>> which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long 
>>>> term and
>>>> costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All 
>>>> is well if
>>>> he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money 
>>>> may be
>>>> necessary.
>>>>
>>>> My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, 
>>>> is it
>>>> really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the 
>>>> project.
>>>>
>>>> Noland Adams
>>>> -----------------------------------------------------
>>>> For subscriber information, see
>>>> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>>>> Send other comments or questions about this list to
>>>> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>>>> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>>>
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>>> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>>> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>> -----------------------------------------------------
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>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Rex,
    If numbers don't matter I've got a 283 removed from my 61 willing to
sell..... I myself am on Noland's Road to NCRS Restoration.
    If you are interested I'll talk offline at whitehead@redacted.email  Best
of luck if you go NCRS and my best advice would be to stick close to this
List. These folks know the answers....

Brian 61,63,95


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Noland,
>
> What you're saying is not far from what I suspected.  First of all, the
car
> has been in the family for a good number of years, so another car is not
> what it's about for them.  At this point in time, I'm gathering the
> information they need to make a decision about how they want to go.  They
> did tell me the numbers didn't matter, but they wanted it to look and feel
> authentic.  However, when I give them this feedback I won't be surprised
if
> they would rather do as you suggested and get a later model power train.
> I think what you're telling me is that a lot of money could be spent, but
if
> we don't pay attention to the numbers, the end result won't be worth the
> money spent.
> Anyway, this is very helpful information.  We'll get all the facts before
> proceeding.
>
> thanks, rex
>
> >From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
> >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
> >To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> >Subject: New to list/'61 Corvette
> >Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:21:03 -0700
> >
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >Rex,
> >
> >I'm not sure you know what you're getting into with this '61 without the
> >engine, fuel injection, and transmission. The local shop told you $7,000?
> >You
> >might pay that much for a fuel injection unit alone.
> >
> >Here's the problem: there was only one original engine, fuel injection,
and
> >transmission built for that '61 Corvette. If you're going to duplicate
that
> >setup, it would all be meaningless unless you rebuild and restore it to a
> >standard. My book on restoration is a good guide to details. However,
money
> >spent on this car is wasted unless you follow the NCRS standard (it's
more
> >up-to-date than my book), as spelled out in their judging guidelines.
> >
> >It is important to understand that many parts- like the generator- have a
> >part
> >number and a date code. We can't just use any old replacement part for
the
> >generator that you could buy at your favorite local parts store. All of
the
> >parts- like the generator- were built before the final assembly date, and
> >installed in the St. Louis assembly plant. That means not only must it
have
> >the correct part number, but it must have a proper date code; usually 3
> >months
> >to 2 weeks before the car was built.
> >
> >The customer would really be better off to install a used 283, 327, or
350
> >engine in good condition along with a non-dated 4 speed. If he or she
> >really
> >wants a Corvette with all the original stuff, they're better off to buy a
> >restored one that's for sale.
> >
> >However, since you asked- here we go. First, you must find a 1961 block
> >with
> >the casting number 3756519 or 3789935. The block must also have a proper
> >casting date,
> >which will be determined by the car's serial number. NCRS has a
> >specifications
> >guide which will provide important information here. After you have
located
> >the block it must be magnafluxed- that is, checked to see that it is not
> >cracked. Then the machine shop gets involved. It must be cleaned up, and
> >machined, and the internal parts installed. In the meantime, you must
look
> >for
> >the proper heads with the proper casting number and date.
> >
> >In 1961 the small "pad" on the right (passenger's) side of the front of
the
> >block contains the engine number, stamped into the metal using metal
dies.
> >Part of the engine number contains the engine assembly date; another part
> >contains a portion of the serial number. The characters in the engine
> >number
> >vary greatly: they must be stamped with great care, using the proper
tools.
> >
> >The same goes for all of the other parts: heads, distributor, exhaust
> >manifolds, water pump, starter, voltage regulator, horn relay, Etc. They
> >must
> >all have the proper part number and date codes, although much of it- like
> >the
> >water pump numbers- are hidden. A search for the proper parts can be
> >expensive, and can take a long time.
> >
> >If the fuel injection is going to duplicate the original, then it must be
a
> >rebuilt original 1961 Rochester fuel injection unit. Although the fuel
> >injection units are not date coded, they do have a part number and a
> >sequence
> >number, which must be proper for the car. And don't forget the air
cleaner,
> >linkages, fuel pump drive cable, Etc.
> >
> >Then there's the search for a proper bell housing, clutch parts, and a
> >proper
> >1961 4 speed manual transmission. Again, numbers and dates must be
correct,
> >which consumes both time and money to locate. This will be a long term
and
> >costly project; are you sure this is what your customer wants? All is
well
> >if
> >he or she goes into this project knowing that extra time and money may be
> >necessary.
> >
> >My guess on the total cost is in the $12,000 to $16,000 range. So, is it
> >really worth it? Only the owner can decide that. Good luck with the
> >project.
> >
> >Noland Adams
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >For subscriber information, see
> >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> >Send other comments or questions about this list to
> >John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> >CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/7/2003 9:27:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
black33ford@redacted.email writes:


> 1. What is the best reference book for me to get to understand numbers?
> 2. The ID on a plate rivited to the steering wheel (and on the registration) 
> 
> is 108675101919.  Is there intelligence in this number, or is it just a 
> number?  Also, is it the right number to judge the official manuf date of 
> the car, or is that number to found somewhere else?
> 

Rex -

       I'd recommend two books for "numbers" - 1) Noland Adams' "The Complete 
Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide", Vol. I, 1953-62 (available from most 
of the Corvette resto parts houses or from Noland himself at 
nolandadams@redacted.email) and 2) The NCRS 1961-62 Corvette Technical Information Manual & 
Judging Guide (available from the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org).

       Two more books that are essential are 1) the "1953-62 Corvette 
Servicing Guide", also known as the "ST-12" (the only solid-axle Shop Manual ever 
published), and 2) The "1961 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual"; both are also 
available from the NCRS on-line store.

       The VIN number on the steering column tube decodes to a final assembly 
date of October 21, 1960; the only other VIN number on the car itself is a 
derivative of the VIN number, stamped on the top surface of the driver's side 
frame rail near the center of the door opening (this same derivative was also 
stamped on the engine block machined pad in front of the passenger side cylinder 
head, adjacent to the engine identification/date code).

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
thanks much, John


>From: Snake488@redacted.email
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: Re: New to list/'61 Corvette
>Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 11:56:43 EDT
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>In a message dated 6/7/2003 9:27:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>black33ford@redacted.email writes:
>
>
> > 1. What is the best reference book for me to get to understand numbers?
> > 2. The ID on a plate rivited to the steering wheel (and on the 
>registration)
> >
> > is 108675101919.  Is there intelligence in this number, or is it just a
> > number?  Also, is it the right number to judge the official manuf date 
>of
> > the car, or is that number to found somewhere else?
> >
>
>Rex -
>
>        I'd recommend two books for "numbers" - 1) Noland Adams' "The 
>Complete
>Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide", Vol. I, 1953-62 (available from 
>most
>of the Corvette resto parts houses or from Noland himself at
>nolandadams@redacted.email) and 2) The NCRS 1961-62 Corvette Technical 
>Information Manual &
>Judging Guide (available from the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org).
>
>        Two more books that are essential are 1) the "1953-62 Corvette
>Servicing Guide", also known as the "ST-12" (the only solid-axle Shop 
>Manual ever
>published), and 2) The "1961 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual"; both 
>are also
>available from the NCRS on-line store.
>
>        The VIN number on the steering column tube decodes to a final 
>assembly
>date of October 21, 1960; the only other VIN number on the car itself is a
>derivative of the VIN number, stamped on the top surface of the driver's 
>side
>frame rail near the center of the door opening (this same derivative was 
>also
>stamped on the engine block machined pad in front of the passenger side 
>cylinder
>head, adjacent to the engine identification/date code).
>
>John Hinckley
>'67 300
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

_________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I just test-drove my 1965 250HP for the second time. On the first drive the
temperature gauge pegged to the high position after reading 140 degrees + -
for a short time. I cleaned the wire connector, checked the wire and removed
and cleaned the threads on the sending unit. The temperature gauge again
read 140 degrees + -. After driving the car for about 10 miles, shutting the
car off and waiting for a few minutes then restarting, the temperature gauge
once again pegged to the high side. I used a temperature gun to read actual
temperature: 180degrees at the thermostat housing and 475 to 485 at the
exhaust manifold. Would this indicate that I need a new sending unit? I
purchased this car in an un-running condition and have no past condition
history.

Thanks for any help!!
Ray
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/8/2003 1:41:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
rcarney5@redacted.email writes:


>  After driving the car for about 10 miles, shutting the
> car off and waiting for a few minutes then restarting, the temperature gauge
> once again pegged to the high side. I used a temperature gun to read actual
> temperature: 180degrees at the thermostat housing and 475 to 485 at the
> exhaust manifold. Would this indicate that I need a new sending unit?

Ray -

       You can eliminate the gauge as the problem by disconnecting the 
terminal at the sending unit with the ignition on - the gauge should go to full 
cold; then ground the wire terminal to the engine - the gauge should go to full 
hot. If this checks out, it's the sender. The Wells TU-5 sender ($5.00 at 
AutoZone) seems to be the closest to the original calibration, and Lectric Limited 
is now advertising properly-calibrated senders for about $20.00. Any other 
replacement sender is likely to make the gauge read 20-40 degrees too hot.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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Thanks!!! John
The gauge now rises to 183 degrees and the lowers to 180 degrees.  It feels
good to drive the 65 after 1-3/4 years of restoration.
Thanks for all your advice!!!
I will be asking for help in the future:
The 61 is next.

Ray
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Ray,

As John has indicated, the gauge can be tested real easy.  The gauge when
grounded out will go full to hot!  Is the gauge after restart actually pegged
hot or is it just moving up after you shut off the engine?  If it's pegged hot
then it's probably the sender.  I would test the gauge as indicated by John
and then test the sender.  Drive the car as stated, shut it off and put an
ohms meter on the gauge sender(with the gauge wire disconnected).  When you
restart it watch for a sudden drop in ohms on the sender.  I don't have my
numbers on my laptop, but you see a quick drop in the ohms on the gauge if the
gauge is indeed spiking.

If it's an original sender don't throw it away either.  I have not tested the
lectric limited sender yet!  (Next on in will be one from them)  But I'm sure
with today's increased knowledge of repairs and fix's that someone someday
will be rebuilding them (if they are not already).

E
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Ray,

The temperature gauge circuit counts on a variable electrical value to measure
temperature. All 1956 to 1967 temperature systems use a single post
temperature sending unit; I believe the first two post sending unit was used
in 1968. Installation of the sending unit is important, here's why:

In order to complete the 1956 to '67 temperature sensing circuit, the sending
unit must be firmly seated in its mount in the intake manifold. If you wrap
the tapered threads with too much teflon tape, you could partially insulate
the sending unit's pipe threads, producing an extra resistance, which would
cause errors in the temperature reading. The real reason for pipe dope or
teflon tape on the sending unit's tapered pipe threads is lubrication. Use
just enough to allow the tapered pipe threads to slide against each other
until the sending unit is firmly installed in the manifold. If you do not use
enough lubricant on the pipe threads, they can gall, and roll little metal
pieces into the threads. Galling prevents the tapered threads from sealing
against each other, and the fitting can seep. It's usually not a big leak, but
it is an annoyance.

I suspect many incorrect cooling temperature readings can be traced to a poor
electrical connection at the sending unit's threads. I hope this helps.

Cheers, Noland Adams
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Can anyone help me with a simple problem? The side view mirror on my 72 Coupe at the point where the mirror attaches to the upright post is very loose. I do not see and way of tightining it so it stays in the adjusted position. This is the original mirror.
Thanks
Rich
'72 Coupe
'93 Coupe
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
i always install these temp senders using never seize as it contains
either copper or aluminum flakes and this will make for good electricial
contact and i have never had one leak doing this.

>From: "Noland Adams" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: >Subject:
Temperature Gauge >Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 15:41:32 -0700 > >The Corvette
Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Ray, > >The
temperature gauge circuit counts on a variable electrical value to
measure >temperature. All 1956 to 1967 temperature systems use a single
post >temperature sending unit; I believe the first two post sending unit
was used >in 1968. Installation of the sending unit is important, here's
why: > >In order to complete the 1956 to '67 temperature sensing circuit,
the sending >unit must be firmly seated in its mount in the intake
manifold. If you wrap >the tapered threads with too much teflon tape, you
could partially insulate >the sending unit's pipe threads, producing an
extra resistance, which would >cause errors in the temperature reading.
The real reason for pipe dope or >teflon tape on the sending unit's
tapered pipe threads is lubrication. Use >just enough to allow the
tapered pipe threads to slide against each other >until the sending unit
is firmly installed in the manifold. If you do not use >enough lubricant
on the pipe threads, they can gall, and roll little metal >pieces into
the threads. Galling prevents the tapered threads from sealing >against
each other, and the fitting can seep. It's usually not a big leak, but
>it is an annoyance. > >I suspect many incorrect cooling temperature
readings can be traced to a poor >electrical connection at the sending
unit's threads. I hope this helps. > >Cheers, Noland Adams
>----------------------------------------------------- >For subscriber
information, see >http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to >John C. Broman, Jr.
at jcbroman@redacted.email >CRPL homepage http://www.corvette-resto.com

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	I'm replacing the oil pressure line and fittings on my small block and
wondering whether anyone can give me a steer on how to flare the ends of
the line once they have been passed through the fittings?

	   Thanks,

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe
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Dan-

While this is supposed to be for "stock" Corvettes, there are a lot of posts
that deal with aftermarket parts and non-stock questions.  You could post
your question, then invite off-line answers - it keeps the purists happy,
and you get your answer.

BTW - headers won't help you all that much with performance unless you match
intake runners, carb size, etc.  And it will introduce a lot more heat into
the cabin.

Good luck.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Daniel Schildknecht
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 11:10 AM
To: scott@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: 68' 427 exhaust system


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for your comments Scott,
I really appreciate them. The heat insulation / dissipation is an issue I'll
have to consider well in this matter, and even more here in the Dominican
Republic, where it's always hot. The header fit was also something which
interested me, mostly by reading comments about the problems during the
installation.

I prefer to ask you guys for previous experiences you may have had or heard
about, than running into something new by myself.

I also thank the others for reminding me the originality of the vehicles in
this list, which I respect. But then again, I don't find technical
questions "scandalous" to the list? If so, please excuse me.

Thanks

Dan

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> A friend of mine has a '72 454 that put on ceramic coated headers and
> stayed with stock exhaust back.
>
> Supposedly the headers were designed to fit the small confines of the
> Corvette engine compartment and the ceramic coating is supposed to keep
> down the heat.  But, in reality, he had to bend and/or beat some of the
> pipes to clear the steering box and frame.  And the interior of his car
> is extremely hot, even with the top down on his car.
>
> I have a '72 454 and I'm sticking with stock exhaust manifolds, etc.
> >From previous discussions on this subject, unless you are going racing,
> you probably won't get that much advantage by going to headers
> (paraphrased from previous discussions.)
>
> Just my .02 on the subject.
>
> Scott Sparkman
>
> '72 LS5 convertible
> -----------------------------------------------------
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 intelNet WebMail
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  8 17:41:18 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart the
box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the remainder
are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.

Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two million
now.
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  8 17:45:52 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I guess I was too quick with my last post: I cleaned all the threads in the
intake and installed a new Wills TU-5 sending unit.
I just got back from a short test drive and the temperature gauge spiked to
the hot during the drive, the gauge work perfect on the first test ride. I
will run the suggested test tomorrow night on the gauge.

Thanks for all your help!
Ray
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ray,

Check the green temp. wire to make sure that it has not worn thru the
insulation and making contact with something too!

E
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If you purchased a line kit from one of the Vendors out there they usually
have a line two nuts and two crimp fittings.  When you install the brass nut,
then the brass crimp fitting and screw the nut down on the gauge it will crimp
the brass fitting where it needs to be.

E
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Rich,

The only way to make the head tighter is to remove the glass!  Once the glass
is removed, you can then brad down the rivets that hold tension on the ball
stud inside.  Someone just did a post on how to get the glass out of the head!
But I think they suggested to soak it in thinner until the glue came loose.

E
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  8 18:24:52 2003
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>It turns out some of the parts are US and the remainder
>are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
>toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.
>

I wouldn't worry too much, I'm sure the US made parts are of acceptable 
quality and are safe to use.

Mike

As my former boss once said "All people that stereotype others are idiots"
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun  8 18:27:53 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I had the same problem on my '73. A good medium term repair is to apply 
a few drops of lock-tite ( I used the non hardening type) on the pivot 
ball and adjust the mirror into position. Let it sit for a day and it 
will probably be stiff enough to hold position. Sort of an autoviagra 
treatment.

Mike
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/8/2003 8:46:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
rcarney5@redacted.email writes:


> I guess I was too quick with my last post: I cleaned all the threads in the
> intake and installed a new Wills TU-5 sending unit.
> I just got back from a short test drive and the temperature gauge spiked to
> the hot during the drive, the gauge work perfect on the first test ride. I
> will run the suggested test tomorrow night on the gauge.
> 

Ray -

       Run a long test lead from the sender terminal on the back of the gauge 
directly to the sending unit and try it again; if it works OK, then there's a 
problem with the 20-ga. dark green sender wire between the gauge and the 
sending unit. 99% of the time, it's in the inboard multiple connector below the 
master cylinder. Carefully depress the locking tangs (be careful not to break 
them) and remove the connector; you'll probably find a pushed-out terminal or 
corrosion. VERY common cause of all manner of Corvette electrical gremlins.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 04:23:46 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm curious how many subscribers to the list are driving to Flint, MI
for the SACC Convention and/or to Bowling Green/Nashville.  My plan,
God willing, is to drive my '56 to Nashville on Thursday 6/26.  Leave
Nashville on Sunday am 6/29, and be in Flint on Monday 6/30.  Anybody
else going too?
Greg Mankin

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bruce-

I purchased my front end rebuild kit from Rik's.  Made in USA - good
quality - reasonably priced.  They are at www.riksvet.com

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
hudlerb1
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 5:42 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Front end parts C3


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart
the
box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the remainder
are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.

Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two million
now.
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 08:00:49 -0400
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bruce,

	I'd say try the easiest route first, i.e, tell your vendor you are
dissatisfied and see what they will do for you.  Sounds like you've been
buying lots of stuff, so you should have some leverage with your
suppliers.

	You also need to be clear on what the terms of sale were in order to
know what kind of footing you are on if your supplier refuses to address
your concerns.

	If you want, e-mail me directly and I'll try to help you out with that
part of it.  I used to help GI's out with that kind of stuff all the
time back in my active duty judge advocate days.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe 

hudlerb1 wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
> parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart the
> box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the remainder
> are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
> toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.
> 
> Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two million
> now.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 05:08:41 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
To add to what Nick said - if you made your purchased with a credit card,
and the vendor misrepresented the product, you can go to your credit card
and dispute the charge.  I'd talk to the vendor first and request they take
the items back and give you FULL credit.  If they don't satisfy you, call
your credits cards customer service.  They will ask you to return the
product and give them proof of shipment.

John Tambourine
'69, '76 & '78 SA Coupes

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of Nicolas Sakellis
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 7:01 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Front end parts C3

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bruce,

	I'd say try the easiest route first, i.e, tell your vendor you are
dissatisfied and see what they will do for you.  Sounds like you've been
buying lots of stuff, so you should have some leverage with your
suppliers.

	You also need to be clear on what the terms of sale were in order to
know what kind of footing you are on if your supplier refuses to address
your concerns.

	If you want, e-mail me directly and I'll try to help you out with
that
part of it.  I used to help GI's out with that kind of stuff all the
time back in my active duty judge advocate days.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

hudlerb1 wrote:
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
> parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart
the
> box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the
remainder
> are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
> toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.
>
> Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two
million
> now.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 06:01:54 2003
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Is there a front end kit for a '61?  If so, what comes in it.  Also, are 
there any good locations on the web to investigate what's available for 
resto work?  Any good catalogs to own?

thanks, rex

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Try these folks.  I suspect that the majority of Corvette parts houses
buy their kits from them.

http://www.kanter.com/

Greg Mankin

--- Rex Smith <black33ford@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Is there a front end kit for a '61?  If so, what comes in it.  Also,
> are 
> there any good locations on the web to investigate what's available
> for 
> resto work?  Any good catalogs to own?
> 
> thanks, rex
> 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I have had my temp gauge rebuilt. It is not giving a correct reading. I think 
I have heard that you can use a new sender and resist it so that the reading 
is more reliable. I drive my car alot, 1700 miles over Memorial weekend from 
Oregon to Reno NAPA and the red woods. Great solid axle, I am worried that I am 
driving without a accurate temp reading. 
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Thanks to Larry Walker's tip, I now have my C1 2x4 purring like a kitten
with a vacuum advance distributor fully operational.

Tom Wander
'60 270 2x4


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laurence Walker" <larrywalk@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance- 340 HP 62


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>......... I tried to put
> > one on my '60 270 without sucess.  When you try to adjust the timing,
> the
> > vacuum can hits on either the rear carb or the coil mounting bracket
> before
> > you achieve the correct setting.  I tried moving the dist. by 1 tooth
> and
> > rotating the wires in the cap but I couldn't come up with a
> combination that
> > worked.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>     Tom,  I've had this happen.  If you just can't get it timed one way
> or the other when shifting a tooth, pull the distributor gear off the
> shaft and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.  This shifts the teeth
> effectively 1/2 tooth.  Now, you'll find that the vacuum advance
> cannister will be in the center of the opening.
>
> Cheers,
> Larry
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Bruce,

Depends on what the rest of the "stuff" c/o and if it meets the original
specs.  You can still buy most of those parts from the General.  I would
hate to go through all that work only to find out that it doesn't fit or
fails.

Dave Juergens
' 71 SB roadster
----- Original Message -----
From: "hudlerb1" <hudlerb1@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: Front end parts C3


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
> parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart
the
> box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the
remainder
> are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
> toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.
>
> Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two
million
> now.
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Priority: normal
Thread-Topic: 72 Side View Mirror
Thread-Index: AcMumG6WAC//OpecEdeRFQBQBM5qpQ==
From: "Greene, Greg" <Greg.Greene@redacted.email>
To: "Crpl (E-mail)" <crpl@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I have kinda like the same problem with my 75, the mirror is tight on the ball
but rocks back and forth on the base rubber gasket.  I can't tighten the
mounting screw any more than it is.  Is the remedy to this to increase the
base size with another rubber gasket and thus the distance from the mounting
screw to the door panel - or is there an easier way ?

Thanks !
Greg Greene - 75 Coupe



Subject: Re: 72 Side View Mirror
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Message: 2

I had the same problem on my '73. A good medium term repair is to apply
a few drops of lock-tite ( I used the non hardening type) on the pivot
ball and adjust the mirror into position. Let it sit for a day and it
will probably be stiff enough to hold position. Sort of an autoviagra
treatment.

Mike




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Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 10:06:25 -0500
From: Kirk Hastings <khdesign@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bruce,

If the goal for your car is to have a good driver, the U.S. made parts
should be fine.  But if your goal is to have your car judged, even U.S. made
parts may not be accurate for judging.  I bought a complete front end
rebuild kit and had to return some of the pieces because of incorrect bolt
head markings and finish on some of the parts.  Compare new parts to the old
ones and judging manual specs.

Good luck,
Kirk Hastings 

> From: hudlerb1 <hudlerb1@redacted.email>
> Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
> Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 20:41:46 -0400
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Front end parts C3
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Bought the kit to re-do the entire front end...asked the guy if it was US
> parts and he said yes. OK, not the wisest thing to do without taking apart the
> box in front of him. It turns out some of the parts are US and the remainder
> are China stuff. Any thoughts on this dilemma? I almost feel like I should
> toss this stuff and just chalk it up to experience.
> 
> Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces, maybe two million
> now.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/9/2003 7:23:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gregmankin@redacted.email writes:


> I'm curious how many subscribers to the list are driving to Flint, MI
> for the SACC Convention and/or to Bowling Green/Nashville.  My plan,
> God willing, is to drive my '56 to Nashville on Thursday 6/26.  Leave
> Nashville on Sunday am 6/29, and be in Flint on Monday 6/30.  Anybody
> else going too?
> 

Greg -

       I'll be at the SACC Convention in Flint with Noland and the gang on 
Saturday 6/28 presenting a Tech Seminar, and again on Monday 6/30 for the rest 
of the festivities (and in Bloomington on Thursday 6/26 presenting a 
Restoration Workshop) - no time for Nashville.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/9/2003 9:37:04 AM, Winnsb@redacted.email writes:
<< I am worried that I am driving without a accurate temp reading.  >>

We probably all are to one degree or another (pun I guess). I wouldn't worry 
about it. If really concerned purchase a noncontact thermometer (MiniTemp) and 
shoot the thermostat housing every once in a while. Regards, JIm Frakes
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/9/2003 9:37:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Winnsb@redacted.email 
writes:


> I have had my temp gauge rebuilt. It is not giving a correct reading. I 
> think 
> I have heard that you can use a new sender and resist it so that the reading 
> 
> is more reliable. I drive my car alot, 1700 miles over Memorial weekend from 
> 
> Oregon to Reno NAPA and the red woods. Great solid axle, I am worried that I 
> am 
> driving without a accurate temp reading. 

       VERY common problem - there's LOTS of information on this issue in the 
archives at the NCRS Technical Board. You can add resistance in the circuit 
to give a correct gauge reading, but the gauge won't be linear - it will only 
be accurate at the point where you choose to calibrate it. The first step is to 
"shoot" your thermostat housing with an I.R. gun at operating temperature and 
compare that reading with what the gauge says at the same time so you know 
what the gauge is telling you.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 11:10:42 -0500
From: steve meltzer <scheherazade@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm still pluggin' away (probably otta plug the whole system) on my '70 'Vette
headlight/wiper system...more on that later. The immediate issue is this:  the
hoses that go to the underdash over ride switches enter that switch via a molded
rubber coupler or connector. I've got a leak where the hoses enter that connector
and even 3M black death wouldn't fix it (only for a few days). Tho' I haven't
killed myself to find a new connector, they weren't immediately apparent on the
web. Anyone how to fix this leak or where to get a new connector or two? thanx
steve meltzer, "unencumbered by the thought process"


-----------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
In answer to Greg's question, a lot of folks are traveling on Sunday from
Bloomington or Nashville to the SACC convention at Flint for the Corvette's
Big Birthday party on Monday the 30th. If you are coming, I must know how many
to expect so we may order enough food for the event. I'm not comfortable with
further discussion on this list, so if you plan to attend please contact me at
nolandadams@redacted.email

Thanks, Noland Adams
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I have the same problem with hi (inacurate) water temp guage reading on my 62. The previous owner installed a secondary bulb type sensor and guage that reads correctly. The guage is mounted under the dash (inconspicuos but you have to bend over to read it.) 

Winnsb@redacted.email wrote:The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have had my temp gauge rebuilt. It is not giving a correct reading. I think 
I have heard that you can use a new sender and resist it so that the reading 
is more reliable. I drive my car alot, 1700 miles over Memorial weekend from 
Oregon to Reno NAPA and the red woods. Great solid axle, I am worried that I am 
driving without a accurate temp reading. 
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My buddy and I are driving our midyears up to Nashville/BG.  We're joining the Caravan from Atlanta on Wednesday and staying through Sunday.

Looking forward to it!

-MK
'66 L36 coupe
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 10:13:34 2003
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Subject: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!
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Wife is real happy for me? My car is Red with White coves 1961. Does any one 
know off a place to purchase a C1 throw blanket, you know to cover the deck so 
that my paint is not totally messed up by the young lady? I know this is not 
resto but it does the heart good to have a solid axle in the pageant amongst 
all of the C5s etc.
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Have her wear Depends under a soft cotton skirt.

Dave Juergens
' 57 2x4 SACC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Winnsb@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 1:13 PM
Subject: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Wife is real happy for me? My car is Red with White coves 1961. Does any
one
> know off a place to purchase a C1 throw blanket, you know to cover the
deck so
> that my paint is not totally messed up by the young lady? I know this is
not
> resto but it does the heart good to have a solid axle in the pageant
amongst
> all of the C5s etc.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
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woooo, talk about panty line

> Have her wear Depends under a soft cotton skirt.
> 
> Dave Juergens
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 13:07:50 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What adhesive is used to attach bonding strips, attach upper firewall to 
underside of cowl and attach upper firewall section to body pan??  Is it 
the same adhesive for all the aforementioned situations or does each 
require its own "glue".  Where can this glue be purchased?  Thanks for your 
help.
-----------------------------------------------------
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From: "Ari Friedman" <arifriedman@redacted.email>
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Subject: RE: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Currently, the only things available (I could find) were two throws. Black
background with white and red images, one with the C4 logo and one with the
C5 logo. Both can be had from any of the large catalog suppliers for about
$50. They use to sell what you want, but discontinued it. Might I suggest
just a plain red blanket to match the body color....or a tow hitch and a
skate board?

Ari

1981 two-tone 4 spd (that did the parade thing too...once)

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+arifriedman=earthlink.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+arifriedman=earthlink.net@redacted.email]On
Behalf Of Winnsb@redacted.email
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:13 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Wife is real happy for me? My car is Red with White coves 1961. Does any one
know off a place to purchase a C1 throw blanket, you know to cover the deck
so
that my paint is not totally messed up by the young lady? I know this is not
resto but it does the heart good to have a solid axle in the pageant amongst
all of the C5s etc.
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 15:01:22 2003
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Subject: Re: Body adhesive for '61 parts/pieces
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In a message dated 6/9/2003 4:08:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hlb@redacted.email 
writes:


> What adhesive is used to attach bonding strips, attach upper firewall to 
> underside of cowl and attach upper firewall section to body pan??  Is it 
> the same adhesive for all the aforementioned situations or does each 
> require its own "glue".  Where can this glue be purchased?

Harwyn -

       It's Polyester resin and hardener - my body guy prefers the Lord 
"Fusor" brand of resins; if you can't find it at a body shop supply outlet, you can 
usually find it at marine supply stores. If you haven't worked with 
fiberglass panel adhesives before, you might get the Eckler's book on fiberglass 
repairs and read up on it; it's not something you "just do" without some learning. 
I'm sure others on the list will have their favorite panel adhesives as well.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Thread-Topic: Oil Pressure Line
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From: "Len Palmer" <LPalmer@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
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Make sure that the line passes through the fitting and sticks out maybe a 1/4
inch.  Then the fitting will crimp on the line.  When it is tightened, see if
you can pull the line back out by hand.  If you can, then the line did not get
crimped correctly.  If you have the old line and fittings, you can see how
they were mated.

Len Palmer
64 Corvette roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service
[mailto:WILLCOX@redacted.email]
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 6:11 PM
To: nsakellis@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Line


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If you purchased a line kit from one of the Vendors out there they usually
have a line two nuts and two crimp fittings.  When you install the brass nut,
then the brass crimp fitting and screw the nut down on the gauge it will
crimp
the brass fitting where it needs to be.

E
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Hi All,

      I see there's been some talk about temperature gauges recently as the 
weather gets warmer. I'm sure my 67 435HP temp gauge is wrong also. I have 
8 sending units, some new Delcos and new Standards, and a couple of old 
ones (don't know if any are originals). I matched them up to a meat 
thermometer in the radiator many years ago, but the closest one was about 
10-15 degrees off. The gauge read higher than the thermometer, but you have 
to remember, the thermometer was in the radiator filler neck on the 
radiator cap side of the radiator. This location is on the cooler end of 
the radiator, after the coolant was cooled.  Does anyone know how close is 
the Wells TU-5 to being accurate, and where can I get one of these IR heat 
guns, and how much can I expect to pay for it ???


                                         Thanks,


                                         RON

  ***********************************************************
                     RON GOLDSTEIN--KA2IIA
                      PUTNAM VALLEY, N.Y.
                             ******
           STAY YOUNG---DRIVE A VINTAGE 427 CORVETTE.
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where can I get one of these IR heat
>guns, and how much can I expect to pay for it ???
>

Sears.  $50.  Model 82327.

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Subject: Re: 61 Corvette front end kit
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>Is there a front end kit for a '61?  If so, what comes in it.  Also, are 
>there any good locations on the web to investigate what's available for 
>resto work?  Any good catalogs to own?
>

All the usual vendors have front end kits.  Kanter probably has the best 
prices on front end stuff.  You probably don't need the whole kit.  The 
control arm bushings do not wear evenly.  Usually some will be shot.  Some 
will be OK.  You probably will need king pins.

Usual C1 Corvette vendors are Dr. Rebuild, Paragon, Zip, Corvette Central, 
and Mary Jo.  They all have web sites.

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Check ebay!

>      I see there's been some talk about temperature gauges recently as 
> the weather gets warmer. I'm sure my 67 435HP temp gauge is wrong 
> also. I have 8 sending units, some new Delcos and new Standards, and a 
> couple of old ones (don't know if any are originals). I matched them 
> up to a meat thermometer in the radiator many years ago, but the 
> closest one was about 10-15 degrees off. The gauge read higher than 
> the thermometer, but you have to remember, the thermometer was in the 
> radiator filler neck on the radiator cap side of the radiator. This 
> location is on the cooler end of the radiator, after the coolant was 
> cooled.  Does anyone know how close is the Wells TU-5 to being 
> accurate, and where can I get one of these IR heat guns, and how much 
> can I expect to pay for it ???
>                                       Thanks,
>                                         RON
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: 61 Corvette front end kit
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I used Corvette Central. By the time I was done I wished that I had 
bought the entire kit including springs, although I have heard some 
horror stories about C1 replacement spring heights.
John from Ventura
57/270

Is there a front end kit for a '61?  If so, what comes in it.  Also, are 
there any good locations on the web to investigate what's available for 
resto work?  Any good catalogs to own?
thanks, rex
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun  9 21:03:01 2003
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From: Bill Herron <sebringbill@redacted.email>
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I'll be driving the SebringBill Personal Road Tour to Flint from Florida starting on June 22nd.  Bryson City, NC on the 23rd, TBA somewhere in KY and OH on the 24th and 25th, then Flint on the 26th.  Nashville and NCM are not on my map this trip.

SebringBill Herron
57 #3143 - 97 #0993
2 Vettes - 11 speeds
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Hey, 
My dad owns a 2001 Convertible and is considering buying some
modifications and would like to see the mods before he buys anything..
anyone know of any corvette shows in the minnesota area or any that would
take a day to drive to from minnesota?

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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 10 06:28:27 2003
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Subject: 50th celebrationGregg
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Gregg :  We will be driveing our 60 to Flint leaving on wed the 25th from St. 
Louis and stopping one night en route.  I would love to try to drive straight 
through but I don't think our ageing bodies will permit that.  IT would be 
nice if others who are driveing to SACC celebration and will be comeing through 
ST. Louis to drive along with them.  Thanks,  Denny and Judy
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>anyone know of any corvette shows in the minnesota area or any that would
>take a day to drive to from minnesota?
>

1. Go to hemmings.com and search for events in your and neighboring states.
2. Find local car clubs, and ask them.

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Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:30:25 -0400
From: Nicolas Sakellis <nsakellis@redacted.email>
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	Thanks to John, Len, Jim, and the guys for responding to my post about
the oil pressure line.

	I was thinking they were compression fittings when I started, but then,
when the line wasn't holding, began wondering if it was necessary to
flare the ends.

	As you all pointed out, they are compression fittings and the important
things are that the line be passed all the way through (Len recommended
1/4") and (as John pointed out) it be bottomed against the female
fitting before tightening.

	Once I did it that way, it all worked fine.  Duh!

	My current car, which I've been restoring over the past year, is my
second '66.  I bought my first one as a young GI back in 1974 for $2,000
and then sold it the following year for whopping $2,800 when I got
stationed overseas in Greenland (whoopee) . . . and, although it seemed
like a great profit at the time, I had been kicking myself in the butt
ever since for not holding on to her.

	All is as it should be now . . . I've finally "un-did" my mistake so to
speak, but the consequences of my unfortunate 27 year hiatus from
Corvette ownership shows up from time-to-time in my asking really basic
stuff like how to connect an oil pressure line.

	This is a great list . . . and it never ceases to amaze me how much
some of the guys know about the intricacies of these cars.

	I guess what I'm trying to say here is thanks for putting up with--and
helping me with--some of my 9th grade auto shop questions!

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe


Nicolas Sakellis wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
>         I'm replacing the oil pressure line and fittings on my small block and
> wondering whether anyone can give me a steer on how to flare the ends of
> the line once they have been passed through the fittings?
> 
>            Thanks,
> 
>                 Nick Sakellis
>                 '66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
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My mechanic says my 54 needs a valve job. Does the 54 use standard
valves that would be used on any 235ci engine or are they different
since it is a Corvette?
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Subject: C1 riveted wheels and tubeless tires
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Can you run tubeless tires with the riveted version of the C1 rims?  Are
there any precautions (i.e. run tubes in them, powder coat them, seal
them with ???)  The feedback that I got back on the last question on C1
rims was that welded rims came out with the addition of tubeless tires
on C1 possibly to prevent leaking.  Can you run radials with the riveted
rims or will the overload them like Coker advertises (actually I think
they state this for original rims welded or riveted)?  What width
whitewalls were used in '60?  Also what brand of tires was used?  

Thanks,

Ted
NCRS #30057
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
To: "'Corvette Restoration'" <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 10:35:25 -0500
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Subject: C3 Spare Tire Recommendations
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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My spare tire is a bias ply tire.  I don't think it is original as is
has raised white letters that say "wide oval" but don't say Goodyear or
Firestone (that I can find).

 

My car has 70 series radials now and I would like to have a spare that I
could use in an emergency (heaven forbid).  My spare doesn't want to
hold air for very long anyway.

 

Does anyone have suggestions for a size radial tire that can fit in the
spare tire tub?  I know my current tires won't fit due to the width of
the tire.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Andy, check out www.bloomingtongold.com. The show is located in Chicago(St.
Charles) and will be held June 26-27-28-29, 2003. Saturday is usually the
best day if you want to see a large selection of Corvettes. Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy L Roerig" <dgviper@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 1:24 AM
Subject: Minnesota Corvette Events..


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hey,
> My dad owns a 2001 Convertible and is considering buying some
> modifications and would like to see the mods before he buys anything..
> anyone know of any corvette shows in the minnesota area or any that would
> take a day to drive to from minnesota?
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: 1954 Valves?
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In a message dated 6/10/2003 9:58:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bashby@redacted.email 
writes:


> My mechanic says my 54 needs a valve job. Does the 54 use standard
> valves that would be used on any 235ci engine or are they different
> since it is a Corvette?
> 

       According to the Ken Kayser series of articles in "Vette Vues", the 
'54 Corvette used "special exhaust valves", P/N 3703571; otherwise, all the 
valvetrain parts in the cylinder head were the same as the passenger car L-6 
engine. The article doesn't describe what the difference was for the "special 
exhaust valves", but it must have been just a premium material, as the length and 
stem diameter, guide, etc. were the same as the passenger car. I'm sure the 
passenger car exhaust valves would work just fine considering the way we drive 
these classics today.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: 72 Side View Mirror
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Greg,

Remove the socket head cap screw from the mirror base, removing the mirror
from the bracket.  Check to see that the bracket is tight against the
gasket.  If this is OK then check the mirror base to bracket fit.  Either
the screw or the hole in the cast bracket is worn.  May need to replace the
bracket if it will not fit tight against the inside of the mirror base.  If
you have previously tightened the screw in the mirror base without first
making sure the base fits properly to the bracket it will "wobble".

Ref. AIM Sheet F25 for assy. views of the parts.

Dave Juergens
' 71 400 SB Roadster


----- Original Message -----
From: "Greene, Greg" <Greg.Greene@redacted.email>
To: "Crpl (E-mail)" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 11:04 AM
Subject: 72 Side View Mirror


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I have kinda like the same problem with my 75, the mirror is tight on the
ball
> but rocks back and forth on the base rubber gasket.  I can't tighten the
> mounting screw any more than it is.  Is the remedy to this to increase the
> base size with another rubber gasket and thus the distance from the
mounting
> screw to the door panel - or is there an easier way ?
>
> Thanks !
> Greg Greene - 75 Coupe
>
>
>
> Subject: Re: 72 Side View Mirror
> Message-ID: <3EE3E271.3000801@redacted.email>
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> Message: 2
>
> I had the same problem on my '73. A good medium term repair is to apply
> a few drops of lock-tite ( I used the non hardening type) on the pivot
> ball and adjust the mirror into position. Let it sit for a day and it
> will probably be stiff enough to hold position. Sort of an autoviagra
> treatment.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
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Browsing eBay and saw this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6168&item=2418767786

Wow!  They didn't make many of those...
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Subject: Re: C1 riveted wheels and tubeless tires
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In a message dated 6/10/2003 11:13:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
rpol78@redacted.email writes:


> Can you run radials with the riveted
> rims or will the overload them like Coker advertises (actually I think
> they state this for original rims welded or riveted)?  What width
> whitewalls were used in '60?  Also what brand of tires was used?

Ted -

       Yes, the riveted rims were used with tubeless tires - the standard 5" 
rims were seen in both welded and riveted versions, and the optional 5.5" rims 
were all riveted from '57 thorugh '62. When I switched to radials on my '57 
with stock 5" rims, I began to have problems with the wheel covers rotating on 
the rims, which lends credence to the thought that radials put more lateral 
load on the wheels due to their construction, but I don't think it's a safety 
issue - lots of guys have radials on stock rims, and I've never heard of a wheel 
failure.

       The '58-'60 TM&JG should describe the whitewall width and tire brands 
that were original equipment.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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>Can you run tubeless tires with the riveted version of the C1 rims?  Are
>there any precautions (i.e. run tubes in them, powder coat them, seal
>them with ???)  The feedback that I got back on the last question on C1
>rims was that welded rims came out with the addition of tubeless tires
>on C1 possibly to prevent leaking.  Can you run radials with the riveted
>rims or will the overload them like Coker advertises (actually I think
>they state this for original rims welded or riveted)?  What width
>whitewalls were used in '60?  Also what brand of tires was used?
>

1. You can run tubeless tires on rivetted rims.  I believe there was some 
concern over their leaking past the rivets, so the industry went to welded 
rims in the mid 50s when tubeless tires came out.  But many people run 
modern tubeless radials on rivetted C1 rims with no problem.  If you have 
the tires off the rims, put a dot of silicone sealer on the rivet head on 
the inside of the rim.

2. I love powder coating.  I think it'd be great for rims.  You may lose 
points on the judging field.  What color are the rims on a '60 supposed to 
be?  It may be body color, which will be hard to match with a powder color.

3. I don't know what Coker advertises.  But I do know the vast majority of 
C1 owners run radial tires with no problems.  Some people report that 1 or 
more of their wheel covers try to rotate on the rim, bumping up against the 
valve stem.  Most people seem to solve that probelm by fiddling with the 
wheel cover.

4. I don't know the width of the whitewall.  But it is called "wide".  It is 
whatever Coker is selling for wide whitewalls.  The width should be listed 
on their site.

5. Didn't you ask these questions a few weeks ago?

If you're going to drive this car, you want radials.  They are so much 
better than bias plies.

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Brad,

Here's the history/usage of Corvette and passenger car 6 cylinder 235 cid
engines as used in 1953 through 1955. We'll trace the changes from 1953 to
1956.

                            inlet valve                                exhaust
valve
In 1953/'54;            3835910 (Corvette)                    3703571
(Corvette)
                                                                    (as
discussed by John Hinckley)

In 1955;     changed to 3695455 (Corvette)      changed to 3836652 (Corvette)

In 1956;                      3695455                     changed to 3731212
            Usage: All 1953 to '55 235 engines,     All 1953 to '55 235
engines,
                       passenger or Corvette            passenger or Corvette

>From this little chart we can see that the engine folks were trying to
consolidate parts. By 1956 they had all 1953 to 1955 Corvette sixes using the
same replacement valves. Of particular note is the exhaust valve; regardless
of its part number, it has a 2-groove stem with a 45 degree seat. Therefore,
if you get valves to fit a 1953 to '55 six cylinder Chevrolet engine, they
should work ok. Having old parts books helps a lot.

Good Luck, Noland Adams
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Chris and John, thanks for your replies.

> 5. Didn't you ask these questions a few weeks ago?

Chris you are correct, I did ask this a week or so ago.  This is the
original that had to have "moderator approval".  For some reason the
title kicked it out and John had to approve it.  I ended up changing the
title and it went through without "approval".  Sorry to the group for
duplicate messages

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I think F70x15 bias were stock on your car(1972 C3)perNCRS spec guide. RWL, 
white stripe or blackwall were options PU9,PT7,PT1 respectively. Radials 
appeared in 73 in GR70x15 size(optionsQRZ,QRM,QRX),and continue thru 77. In 78 
they changed to P225/70 for blackwalls(QGQ) and P255/60R15 RWL(QBS).

As I recall, there is some adjustment available in the two studs that support 
the bucket as well as the moveable hanger bolt at the rear.

Hope that helps.

Hal Emrich
NCRS 8658
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hi,
i am new to the group. have '59 red vette, looking for soft top and hard top
both
any recommendations on online reputable sources?
thanks!
sara
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From: David Drenzek <ddrenzek293590MI@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: 50th Celebrations
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Greg,  those are my plans also...

Dave
62


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Mankin" <gregmankin@redacted.email>
To: "Resto.com Corvette" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 7:23 AM
Subject: 50th Celebrations


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I'm curious how many subscribers to the list are driving to Flint, MI
> for the SACC Convention and/or to Bowling Green/Nashville.  My plan,
> God willing, is to drive my '56 to Nashville on Thursday 6/26.  Leave
> Nashville on Sunday am 6/29, and be in Flint on Monday 6/30.  Anybody
> else going too?
> Greg Mankin
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 11 04:40:31 2003
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Hi Sara,

I had the hardtop for my '58 restored by;

Glassworks, The Hardtop Shop
238 Spring Run Road
Crescent, PA 15046

They sell complete tops as well as restoration services. They have a
website, sorry I do not have the URL at the office.

Most of the major Corvette houses have soft top stuff. Corvette Central,
Paragon Reproductions, Eckler's, to name a few.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>i am new to the group. have '59 red vette, looking for soft top and hard 
>top
>both
>any recommendations on online reputable sources?

softtop
Sully's, 800-451-3998 (CA)
Coffman, 352-394-1311 (FL)
Crane Corvette something or other in San Diego.  Look them up.

hardtop
Glassworks (PA), www.thehardtopshop.com

No experience with any of them.  Just heard these names over and over on 
this and similar lists over the past few years.

Make sure you have your nitroglycerin heart pills handy when you call for 
prices.

_________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Gene,
    I used to get all sorts of speakers redone at MISCO -that's Minneapolis
Speaker Company.  They are in Minneapolis, MN and always did wonderful work
for me.  The speakers came back much better than OEM and very reasonable
pricing too.  Hope they are still around. I'm sure you can locate on the web.
Greg Bares
74 L-82 coupe
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/11/2003 10:28:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gsbares@redacted.email writes:


> I used to get all sorts of speakers redone at MISCO -that's Minneapolis
> Speaker Company.  They are in Minneapolis, MN and always did wonderful work
> for me.  The speakers came back much better than OEM and very reasonable
> pricing too.  Hope they are still around. I'm sure you can locate on the 
> web.
> 

       It's www.miscospeakers.com, but their server must be on the fritz 
right now.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
vendors?
Also I have one windshield wiper blade, drivers side, that apprears to
be traveling too far in that it travels to the middle of the windshield
trim on the bottom before it stops.  I tried to gently pull the wiper
assy off the shaft but it felt as though it was pretty snug.  I did
notice a tab that apparently needs to be pulled back from the shaft but
it still was on pretty tight.  I don't want to resort using  to my
trusty 6 foot crow bar to pry this thing off and accidently run it
through the windshield.  Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Frank
66 Coupe
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can't help you with the horns, but I bought a nifty little tool from
Corvette Central used to remove wiper arms from the shafts.  Works
great.  You may be able to get one thru your FLAPS.
Greg Mankin
--- 99015 <fwjones@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone
> have
> any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or
> other
> vendors?
> Also I have one windshield wiper blade, drivers side, that apprears
> to
> be traveling too far in that it travels to the middle of the
> windshield
> trim on the bottom before it stops.  I tried to gently pull the wiper
> assy off the shaft but it felt as though it was pretty snug.  I did
> notice a tab that apparently needs to be pulled back from the shaft
> but
> it still was on pretty tight.  I don't want to resort using  to my
> trusty 6 foot crow bar to pry this thing off and accidently run it
> through the windshield.  Any tips would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Frank
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 11 08:54:20 2003
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Subject: Re: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Frank:

For the windshield wiper, you need a windshield wiper arm removal tool. I
got mine from L.I. Corvette www.licorvette.com but it is available
elsewhere. Here is the specific page in their catalog
www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/cat21/55.pdf It is part # 16.

HTH
Pat in NJ
67
----- Original Message -----
From: "99015" <fwjones@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:32 AM
Subject: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
> any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
> vendors?
> Also I have one windshield wiper blade, drivers side, that apprears to
> be traveling too far in that it travels to the middle of the windshield
> trim on the bottom before it stops.  I tried to gently pull the wiper
> assy off the shaft but it felt as though it was pretty snug.  I did
> notice a tab that apparently needs to be pulled back from the shaft but
> it still was on pretty tight.  I don't want to resort using  to my
> trusty 6 foot crow bar to pry this thing off and accidently run it
> through the windshield.  Any tips would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Frank
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/11/2003 11:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
fwjones@redacted.email writes:


> I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
> any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
> vendors?

Frank -

       I haven't heard of one successful home horn rebuild using the "kits" - 
aside from the difficulty of duplicating the correct rivet appearance around 
the edge, the major issue is achieving anywhere near the correct sound. Dennis 
Portka is probably the best-known horn rebuilder - he advertises in Hemmings, 
the "Driveline", etc., and his work can't be told from new.

       Here's a link to a photo of the wiper arm removal/installation tool 
Greg mentioned - makes the job a snap:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-6/13522/20026314355-0-Wipertool.JPG

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 11 10:01:15 2003
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Subject: RE: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Frank,

I used the Horn repair kit sold by ZIP Products.  The kit is for 57 to 63
so, I do not know how good the kit would be for your 66.  But, the 57 to 63
kit had everything I needed including the rivets.  (I really thought that
they were going to send nuts and bolts in place of the rivets.  Glad that
they didn't!)

It was a very straightforward process.

Good luck,

Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of 99015
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 9:33 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
vendors?
Also I have one windshield wiper blade, drivers side, that apprears to
be traveling too far in that it travels to the middle of the windshield
trim on the bottom before it stops.  I tried to gently pull the wiper
assy off the shaft but it felt as though it was pretty snug.  I did
notice a tab that apparently needs to be pulled back from the shaft but
it still was on pretty tight.  I don't want to resort using  to my
trusty 6 foot crow bar to pry this thing off and accidently run it
through the windshield.  Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Frank
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Thread-Topic: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns
Thread-Index: AcMwMbvg/4jJhxJsQZSbe/JOiC2VmQAACAhA
From: "Len Palmer" <LPalmer@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
There is a special tool to remove the wiper blade.  I don't remember the
details but should be available in a Corvette catalog or local store.

Len Palmer
64 Corvette Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: 99015 [mailto:fwjones@redacted.email]
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:33 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
vendors?
Also I have one windshield wiper blade, drivers side, that apprears to
be traveling too far in that it travels to the middle of the windshield
trim on the bottom before it stops.  I tried to gently pull the wiper
assy off the shaft but it felt as though it was pretty snug.  I did
notice a tab that apparently needs to be pulled back from the shaft but
it still was on pretty tight.  I don't want to resort using  to my
trusty 6 foot crow bar to pry this thing off and accidently run it
through the windshield.  Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Frank
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 11 10:02:27 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

When I did mine, I was very pleased with the results. Now, I am talking
about horns for a '63 and not a '66 so, I don't know the complexity of the
'66 horns.

For the appearance of the rivets, I assume that you are talking about the
ends of the rivets after they have been compressed.  For the '63 it is sort
of a cross-hatch appearance.  I was able to duplicate this by using one of
the jaws of a vise-grip in my Shop Press.

For achieving the correct sound, the '63 has a screw to adjust the pitch.
This seemed to be very straightforward.

Anyway, I just didn't want to discourage Frank from trying it.

Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Snake488@redacted.email
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 9:57 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: 1966 Coupe Wipers / Horns


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/11/2003 11:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
fwjones@redacted.email writes:


> I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
> any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
> vendors?

Frank -

       I haven't heard of one successful home horn rebuild using the
"kits" -
aside from the difficulty of duplicating the correct rivet appearance around
the edge, the major issue is achieving anywhere near the correct sound.
Dennis
Portka is probably the best-known horn rebuilder - he advertises in
Hemmings,
the "Driveline", etc., and his work can't be told from new.

       Here's a link to a photo of the wiper arm removal/installation tool
Greg mentioned - makes the job a snap:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-6/13522/20026314355-0-Wipertool.JPG

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

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Frank,

	Another place to get the wiper arm removal tool you need is
www.memintools.com.

	They have a whole section Lisle (Made in U.S.A.) stuff which, in
addition to the tool you are looking for (which I will now run a piece
of tape around as shown in John's picture), has all kinds of the older
type tools (like the flexible shaft point setting tool) which you don't
really see around that much anymore.

	On the horns, Dennis Portka just did a set for me and they sound and
look great.  I thought about trying it myself, but, because one of my
horns was not correct, had Dennis do the job because he was also able to
supply a correctly date matched core.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe
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Frank:
 Just this week I rebuilt both of my horns with the rebuild kit from Corvette
Central. Followed instructions with the kit and all worked out well.
Gary
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	That should have been www.menintools.com

Nicolas Sakellis wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Frank,
> 
>         Another place to get the wiper arm removal tool you need is
> www.memintools.com.
> 
>         They have a whole section Lisle (Made in U.S.A.) stuff which, in
> addition to the tool you are looking for (which I will now run a piece
> of tape around as shown in John's picture), has all kinds of the older
> type tools (like the flexible shaft point setting tool) which you don't
> really see around that much anymore.
> 
>         On the horns, Dennis Portka just did a set for me and they sound and
> look great.  I thought about trying it myself, but, because one of my
> horns was not correct, had Dennis do the job because he was also able to
> supply a correctly date matched core.
> 
>                 Nick Sakellis
>                 '66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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In a message dated 6/11/2003 1:03:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cedermang@redacted.email writes:


> When I did mine, I was very pleased with the results. Now, I am talking
> about horns for a '63 and not a '66 so, I don't know the complexity of the
> '66 horns.
> 

Gary -

       Great! I'm glad to hear a success story on horn rebuilding!  Dennis 
spends about eight hours per horn, and gets $160 for a rebuild - kinda pricey!

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I thought there was an article in the NCRS restorer on rebuiding horns a
while back.  Two things I think I recall (how is that for certainty?) are 1)
some parts you MAY need may not be in the kits (diaphragm, maybe?) so parts
horns are helpful, and 2) don't paint the inside, or at least paint too
much, as sound will be affected . . .  Again, I am working from my memory,
which is really good, just short . . . .

By the way, as long as I am typing, a few words on a totally unrelated
topic: troubleshooting and new parts.  Despite proper soaking in oil, etc.,
Meltzer and I just had a problem with a new, but defective, accelerator pump
on his '62.  Similarly, not one but two new repro (not AC) vacuum relays on
his '70 headlight system leaked . . .  I just wanted to share an old lesson
I have been doomed to relearn, that new parts don't always work, either . .
. .

John Dillman
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John

Looks like a neat tool -- but how do you use it to remove the wiper arm ?????

thanks

john lolli



In a message dated 6/11/2003 10:56:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, Snake488 writes:

> 
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/11/2003 11:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> fwjones@redacted.email writes:
> 
> 
> > I have one each horn that is inoperative on my coupe.  Does anyone have
> > any experience with rebuild kits that are available at Paragon or other
> > vendors?
> 
> Frank -
> 
>       I haven't heard of one successful home horn rebuild using the "kits" - 
> aside from the difficulty of duplicating the correct rivet appearance around 
> the edge, the major issue is achieving anywhere near the correct sound. Dennis 
> Portka is probably the best-known horn rebuilder - he advertises in Hemmings, 
> the "Driveline", etc., and his work can't be told from new.
> 
>       Here's a link to a photo of the wiper arm removal/installation tool 
> Greg mentioned - makes the job a snap:
> 
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-6/13522/20026314355-0-Wi
> pertool.JPG
> 
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
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The '61 Corvette I'm working on has tightly wound coil springs around each 
of the rear brake drums.  What are those for?

rex

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In a message dated 6/11/2003 5:25:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
black33ford@redacted.email writes:


> The '61 Corvette I'm working on has tightly wound coil springs around each 
> of the rear brake drums.  What are those for?
> 

Rex -

       They're to dampen high-frequency vibrations in the drum that could 
cause brake squeaks without the springs.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Rex-

You'll find that if you try to replace the brake drums with reproductions, you will have a hard time finding new ones with the springs on them.

We actually gave up on that quest for a while.

jim -61
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Sara,

Welcome to this group! I don't participate too much.... but read all the
great advice and knowledge these guys hand out every day :) 
Thanks guys!
 I'm glad to see another "gal" in the hobby of Solid Axles. I have a
1958 Daytona Yellow (not quite stock).
Denise in Seattle, WA
58' Cruisin' in style 
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Those are original drums.  I think i recall hearing that the springs were 
intended to reduce rattle or noise.  Be sure to keep them the replacement 
drums usually don't have them.
           FWIW
            Brian
          Silver (?) '62
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The '61 Corvette I'm working on has tightly wound coil springs around each 
> of the rear brake drums.  What are those for?
> 
> rex
> 
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Hi Guys,
I hope someone has the answer to my problem. I purchased an ignition switch 
supposed to be for a 1965 vette, however my original key lock that goes into 
the switch will not fit.  The switch part number is Delco Remy 1116660, is this 
for a 66 or later vette???

Thanks 
Floyd
65 Fuelie
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Thanks to all of you that enlightened me on this subject.  I'll probably be 
keeping the original drums.


>From: FI1oo16@redacted.email
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: Re: Spring around brake drum
>Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 00:22:19 +0000
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Those are original drums.  I think i recall hearing that the springs were
>intended to reduce rattle or noise.  Be sure to keep them the replacement
>drums usually don't have them.
>            FWIW
>             Brian
>           Silver (?) '62
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > The '61 Corvette I'm working on has tightly wound coil springs around 
>each
> > of the rear brake drums.  What are those for?
> >
> > rex
> >
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Subject: 62 spare tire cover
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Is there a picture or does anyone know the correct placement of the foam cushions that glue to the underside of the spare tire board. What direction are they glued in, and how far away from the center hole on a 62. 

Thanks in advance
Dave
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How does one install these springs?  I didn't have much luck a couple of
years ago...  -John  '62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Can someone who has the carpet out of the driver's side on their 61 send me 
a pic of the area around the gas pedal studs?  I am repairing this area on 
my 61 and I have a piece of glass for replacing this area but am concerned 
that the piece is not for a 61 (or that it is for a 61 and I've currently 
got something in there other than a 61).  That wouldn't be funny at 
all!  I'm particularly interested in how close the body mount bolt hole 
depression is to the transmission hump.  Thanks to anyone who can help.
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Dave,
Basically place the three rectangular pieces of foam in a tight triangle so
the one inside corner of each piece almost touches he one beside it. The
General wasn't too particular the foam might touch or there may be a gap of
1/2"±
between the two .Light yellow colored glue was painted with a brush and the
foam
pieces placed on the glue. So, one would expect to see some ( sometimes a
lot) of glue smeared around. Approach this project as if it was your last job
assignment for the day at the St. Louis Corvette line before a long weekend
and
the result will be fine! Regards, Jim Frakes
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Resend -

I am rebulding my '67 rear strut arm bushings and just received the new
bushings from Doc Rebuild - I notice that my original bushings were
different - I assume there was a engineering . change - original bushings
were metal lined but rubber on the outter side against the strut arm end  -
new ones are metal inner - rubber encased in metal outside  - no problem
really - this is not seen - size seems ok - I did install one last night
but quite a job - moved up in hammer size several times - and about broke
my poor vise  !

My next plan is to heat the arm end as much as I can and see if that works
better- has anyone got a better process that worked good for them - is the
best option to go to a shop and have them pressed on ? I am concerned my
hammer process will fail before the three remaining busings complete?

Thanks

Rich Burgess
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I would like to thank all of you for your responses relating to the questions I
had on the horn repair and the tool tip for removing the wiper arm assy.  I have
placed an order for the tool as well as a repair kit for the inoperative horn.
I even checked my judging guide last night and discovered that the horns differ
in their tone from right to left side.
I thought all horns were the same.  Another leaning experience, complete with
all of your input.
Thank You Very Much!
Frank
66 Coupe

John Dillman wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I thought there was an article in the NCRS restorer on rebuiding horns a
> while back.  Two things I think I recall (how is that for certainty?) are 1)
> some parts you MAY need may not be in the kits (diaphragm, maybe?) so parts
> horns are helpful, and 2) don't paint the inside, or at least paint too
> much, as sound will be affected . . .  Again, I am working from my memory,
> which is really good, just short . . . .
>
> By the way, as long as I am typing, a few words on a totally unrelated
> topic: troubleshooting and new parts.  Despite proper soaking in oil, etc.,
> Meltzer and I just had a problem with a new, but defective, accelerator pump
> on his '62.  Similarly, not one but two new repro (not AC) vacuum relays on
> his '70 headlight system leaked . . .  I just wanted to share an old lesson
> I have been doomed to relearn, that new parts don't always work, either . .
> . .
>
> John Dillman
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Floyd,
  My January 1973 P & A 30 B shows 1116660 as being the correct switch for 
your '65.  Is there a possibility that the switch has been placed into the wrong 
box. Earlier switches had the last three numbers of the part number cast into 
the switch housing. You might check on this.
                                                                  Toby Taylor
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I suggest you use a press to install the bushings.  Won't cost but a
few $$ if you have to farm out the job, and it's much easier on your
hammer and vise.  Lube the metal on the outside of the bushings and
they should press right in.
Greg Mankin
--- Rich Burgess <richbb@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Resend -
> 
> I am rebulding my '67 rear strut arm bushings and just received the
> new
> bushings from Doc Rebuild - I notice that my original bushings were
> different - I assume there was a engineering . change - original
> bushings
> were metal lined but rubber on the outter side against the strut arm
> end  -
> new ones are metal inner - rubber encased in metal outside  - no
> problem
> really - this is not seen - size seems ok - I did install one last
> night
> but quite a job - moved up in hammer size several times - and about
> broke
> my poor vise  !
> 
> My next plan is to heat the arm end as much as I can and see if that
> works
> better- has anyone got a better process that worked good for them -
> is the
> best option to go to a shop and have them pressed on ? I am concerned
> my
> hammer process will fail before the three remaining busings complete?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rich Burgess
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Subject: Re: Ignition Switch for 1965 vette
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In a message dated 6/11/2003 10:16:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
FDossey@redacted.email writes:


> I hope someone has the answer to my problem. I purchased an ignition switch 
> 
> supposed to be for a 1965 vette, however my original key lock that goes into 
> 
> the switch will not fit.  The switch part number is Delco Remy 1116660, is 
> this 
> for a 66 or later vette???
> 

Floyd -

       The parts book and the A.I.M. both show 1116660 as the '65-only 
ignition switch, with 1116686 as the '66-'67 switch, and 1116650 for '63-'64. Key 
cylinders follow the same pattern.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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In a message dated 6/11/2003 4:18:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
JL66redcpe@redacted.email writes:


> Looks like a neat tool -- but how do you use it to remove the wiper arm 
> ?????

John -

       The piece that hangs down has a lip on the bottom that hooks under the 
bottom edge of the end of the arm that goes over the spindle, and you squeeze 
the hinged part of the arm up against the handle of the tool (where the piece 
of tape is in the pic, to avoid scratching the top surface of the arm); this 
straightens out the arm against the hinge spring tension (essentially makes 
the hinged arm a solid one-piece part) and makes it simple to either remove it 
or to position it properly when installing it. Hard to explain, but easy to do.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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In a message dated 6/12/2003 9:41:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
richbb@redacted.email writes:


> My next plan is to heat the arm end as much as I can and see if that works
> better- has anyone got a better process that worked good for them - is the
> best option to go to a shop and have them pressed on ? I am concerned my
> hammer process will fail before the three remaining busings complete?
> 

Rich -

       Put the bushings in the freezer overnight, have the strut clamped in 
the vise and your tools at the ready, and get the bushing from the freezer to 
the vise as quickly as you can for installation. 

       -or-

       Take the struts and bushings to a shop with a press and let them do 
it.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: RE: Spring around brake drum
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Good point; I haven't tried it yet.  How about 3 people; two with 4 long 
screwdrivers spaced at 90 degree increments around the drum; 1 to slide the 
spring down the screwdrivers onto the drum (unless it slides by itself.   
Everyone should wear heavy gloves jackets and faceshields for the failed 
attempts.

BTW, while I believe the springs are there for vibration damping as people 
say, I'm hard pressed to imagine exactly how they prevent that.  The only 
theory I can come up with is that the brake drum itself developed a 
resonance (bad design, needing a bandaid?) that could be damped by 
compressing the perimeter with a spring.  maybe...

In the May/June issue of Home Shop Machinist, they present a method of 
winding your own springs using a lathe with a mandrel.  Might be interesting 
to try it with these springs since you can't get them anymore.  Do the new 
drums have the slot for the springs?

rex

>From: "Turner, John A. MD" <JATurner@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: RE: Spring around brake drum
>Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 07:52:28 -0500
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>How does one install these springs?  I didn't have much luck a couple of
>years ago...  -John  '62
>-----------------------------------------------------
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In a message dated 6/12/2003 11:11:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
black33ford@redacted.email writes:


>  Do the new 
> drums have the slot for the springs?
> 

No, they don't - none of the reproduction/replacement or passenger car 
service drums have the grooves for the damper springs; if you have spring-groove 
drums that are still within turning limits, hang on to them!

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: 62 sprare tire cover
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Hi Dave, I was at the Stanford Vette show last Saturday and had my cover out 
to place the ice and beer in the wheel well and started to place the cover in 
upside down and saw the foam your talking about. They are triangulary placed 
around the metal cap that the bolt goes through to hold the cover down. If this 
dont help, stop by and we can open my trunk and you can see for yourself. I 
forgot they were even there....   or call, 1 313 292 9200,             Wally 
Knoch
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Subject: Spare tire size for 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Can anyone recommend a tire and size that will fit into the spare tire well
for my 62?  I am currently running Cragar SS mags but the spare doesn't
matter.  I can't fit the spare I have into the well without the cover board
sticking up a couple of inches.
Derek 62
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Subject: Re: Ignition Switch for 1965 vette
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hi Toby,
Thanks for the reply, it has 660 embossed on the switch and you are correct 
it is the right switch for a 65.  I finally got it to work today, I don't know 
what I was doing wrong except old age maybe.

Thanks again for the reply

Floyd
65 Fuelie
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
 John,
Thanks for the reply,
I recieved several emails stating the same thing that 660 is correct for the 
65.
Today I got it to work just like it was supposed to, I don't know what I was 
doing wrong.
I guess I can blame it on old age. HA HA

Thanks again, you are a wealth of knowledge

Floyd
65 Fuelie
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Hi John,
I have one of those tools and it works great, however when I purchased it, it 
didn't have any instructions with it. Your explanation sure makes sense, now 
I know how to use it properly.

Thanks again

Floyd
65 Fuelie
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Floyd,

	Don't worry, many of us know exactly what you're talking about . . .
and you're absolutely right . . . the old age of some of the parts for
these cars can be a real problem sometimes!

		Nick Sakellis  :)
		'66 Coupe

FDossey@redacted.email wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
>  John,
> Thanks for the reply,
> I recieved several emails stating the same thing that 660 is correct for the
> 65.
> Today I got it to work just like it was supposed to, I don't know what I was
> doing wrong.
> I guess I can blame it on old age. HA HA
> 
> Thanks again, you are a wealth of knowledge
> 
> Floyd
> 65 Fuelie
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/12/2003 8:53:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Snake488@redacted.email
 writes:

> 
> 
> In a message dated 6/11/2003 5:25:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> black33ford@redacted.email writes:
> 
> 
> >The '61 Corvette I'm working on has tightly wound coil springs around each 
> >of the rear brake drums.  What are those for?
> >
> 
> Rex -
> 
>     They're to dampen high-frequency vibrations in the drum that could 
> cause brake squeaks without the springs.
> 
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> 

Ya learn somthing every day.  I was told years ago they were to dissipate 
heat.  I guess thats how stupid theories get started.

Steve in Connecticut
Waiting for the rain to stop
'61 283/270
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Subject: Re: RE: Spring around brake drum
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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The springs also assist in dissapating heat from the drums created during
heavy braking.  I was lucky the springs were still on my drums when I
restored the 59.  It's been quite a while, but I don't recall a whole lot of
trouble "rolling" them over the edge of the drum and into the grooves.
Bob
59 245hp
Motorama car
San Diego

>On Thu, 12 Jun 2003 08:09:24 -0700 Rex Smith <black33ford@redacted.email>
wrote.
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Good point; I haven't tried it yet.  How about 3 people; two with 4 long 
>screwdrivers spaced at 90 degree increments around the drum; 1 to slide the

>spring down the screwdrivers onto the drum (unless it slides by itself.   
>Everyone should wear heavy gloves jackets and faceshields for the failed 
>attempts.
>
>BTW, while I believe the springs are there for vibration damping as people 
>say, I'm hard pressed to imagine exactly how they prevent that.  The only 
>theory I can come up with is that the brake drum itself developed a 
>resonance (bad design, needing a bandaid?) that could be damped by 
>compressing the perimeter with a spring.  maybe...
>
>In the May/June issue of Home Shop Machinist, they present a method of 
>winding your own springs using a lathe with a mandrel.  Might be
interesting 
>to try it with these springs since you can't get them anymore.  Do the new 
>drums have the slot for the springs?
>
>rex
>
>>From: "Turner, John A. MD" <JATurner@redacted.email>
>>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>>To: crpl@redacted.email
>>Subject: RE: Spring around brake drum
>>Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 07:52:28 -0500
>>
>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>How does one install these springs?  I didn't have much luck a couple of
>>years ago...  -John  '62
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Bob
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 12 15:56:38 2003
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G'Day All,

Currently cosmetically restoring the guages on the '64.  The fuel guage when 
out of the vehicle always returns to 1/4 full at rest.  Can't remember what 
it did when the car was running a couple of years ago.
Is this normal & will it read correctly when installed & hooked up.

Regards

Alan

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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> >  Do the new
> > drums have the slot for the springs?
> >
>
>No, they don't - none of the reproduction/replacement or passenger car
>service drums have the grooves for the damper springs; if you have 
>spring-groove
>drums that are still within turning limits, hang on to them!


I got some rear brake drums off an early '70s Chevy wagon that had the 
grooves for the springs.  Chevy had drum brakes on the rears of their cars 
for a long time after they went to front discs.  The drums for C1s is a 
pretty common 11x2 size with the 4 3/4" lug pattern.  They must have made 
tens of millions of those.

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>You'll find that if you try to replace the brake drums with reproductions, 
>you will have a hard time finding new ones with the springs on them.
>
>We actually gave up on that quest for a while.


The springs were still available from Chevy a few months ago.  Around $10 
each.  There is some controversy whether the original springs were round or 
flat.

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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 12 20:14:39 2003
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Subject: Re: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!
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We do 7 or 8 parades a summer. Got a product called Parade Rest which is a
1" foam vinyl covered pad for the deck behind seats about 18" x 40inches;
and a 18inch square similar pad for the seat so shoes don't mar upholstery.
About $20.00 for set in Black or White only.  No web, email is
donrels@redacted.email or 888-206-0148, I think they are in CA.
Kelly  '54
----- Original Message -----
From: <Winnsb@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 12:13 PM
Subject: driving car in Miss Oregon Pagent Hauling one of the GIRLS!


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Wife is real happy for me? My car is Red with White coves 1961. Does any
one
> know off a place to purchase a C1 throw blanket, you know to cover the
deck so
> that my paint is not totally messed up by the young lady? I know this is
not
> resto but it does the heart good to have a solid axle in the pageant
amongst
> all of the C5s etc.
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Subject: '66 Dash Paint
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm restoring the complete dash in my '66 air coupe and have some
choices to make regarding paint.

The JM calls for semi-gloss on the instrument cluster (glove box and
console to match), and there I'm using the semi-gloss which LIC sells.
I'm not a paint expert, but it seems a bit on the "thick" side (I'm
assuming because of paint solids), which is okay for me since sun is a
big factor down here in Miami.

On the dash cover (and speaker grill), the JM calls for "low-gloss". and
there I'm using the "Under Hood Black" from Eastwood.  I tried the
Krylon semi-flat black, but, at least next to the LIC "semi-gloss"
(which is pretty glossy for a semi-gloss), it was too much of a
contrast.  The Eastwood stuff, although it may not have been intended
for this application, looks much better.

Where I'm wondering which way to go is on the clock bezel and center a/c
vent.  I didn't see any guidance as to the correct sheen for either of
those areas in the JM.

My thinking is to match the clock bezel to the bezels in the instrument
cluster (LIC semi-glass), and, in order to balance out the overall
apearance of the dash, do the center vent components in he same LIC
semi-gloss.

It presents well, but is there a different judging correct answer as to
what to use?

Also, it would be good to know whether, if at all, a judge might look
for a particular finish on the metal deflector plate in the center duct
(which is somewhat visible at various angles from inside the passenger
compartment).

	Nick Sakellis
	'66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Piston Ring Grinder Technique
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Is there a trick to keeping the ring square to the grinding wheel?  Or does
one simply go slow, grind one end, and "eyeball" it
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Subject: Heater Core Question
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
On a 66 with A/C does the heater core come out from the engine side or the 
interior side?
Thanks,
Charlie Falson
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Spring around brake drum  Install
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bob has it correct, attach the ends together to make a continuous loop and
roll them over the lip. It's easy.

I recently replaced the drums that came with the car (which have the
springs) with repro's (no springs). I notice a high frequency vibration
under light braking conditions that goes away under harder braking. The car
did not exhibit any such vibrations with old drums.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charlie,

The heater core comes out from the interior side.  I just recently went
through the whole A/C system on my '66, so I might be able to help you
out if you either post to the list or e-mail me as you get into the job.

Having been sucked into what John Hinkley once so-aptly described as the
"restoration vortex", what started out as painting the radiator on my
car turned into (and this is only a partial listing) replacing the
radiator support, rebuilding the headlight motors, getting the horns
done, then doing the top half of the engine, redoing the A/C system,
which, in turn, led to redoing the entire dash, and, while I was at it,
the complete interior and the accessible sections of the birdcage,
which, once I had all that room to work, presented an "opportune" time
to get into the door hinges.

If, on the other hand, you can avoid getting sucked into the "vortex" (I
actually willingly stuck my head in it) and stick to just replacing the
heater core, then you will find it easier to take the radio out rather
than trying to work around it when you pull the distribution box (which
is what the heater core mounts to) out from under the dash.  There are a
lot of good posts on that in the archives.

Something which I did not find in the archives, but proved to be very
helpful (since I work solo), was picking up a 12" threaded rod and two
couplers at Home Depot.  I cut the rod in half and used the couplers to
lengthen the two of the three bolts on the distributor box around the
heater core.

With two people, one could push the distribution box up against the
firewall from the inside while the other works from the engine
compartment side to thread the flare nuts which hold in in place.

Working alone--and using the threaded rods as extensions, I was able to
position the distribution box close enough from inside so that there was
enough of the treaded rod exposed on the engine compartment side for me
to then swing around to pull the box flush and get a flare nut
started.    

Hope that helps, and good luck!

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

Tentuna@redacted.email wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> On a 66 with A/C does the heater core come out from the engine side or the
> interior side?
> Thanks,
> Charlie Falson
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Spring around brake drum
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
About 20 years ago I had to replace a front brake drum on my 1963 coupe. At
that time I examined the front drums closely. One had a round spring; the
other had a flat spring. The drum came from the local Chevrolet dealer, and
the spring was removed and installed on the replacement drum. So that '63
still has one of each style.

-Noland Adams
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Try a compact spare out of a early 70's full sized GM sedan. I have four of
them that I use to roll around project cars. They fit into the well with
room to spare (no pun intended) and show up at swap meets regularly. I ran
with one for three years until Chris Ritchie gave me a tire that fit (thanks
again Chris, trying for Top Flight this fall!).

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
'58 290 F.I.
NCRS #27152
SACC # ????
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Now it appears the front drums on this '61 are wrong.  They have fins.  The 
back ones are the originals with the springs.


>From: "Noland Adams" <nolandadams@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: Spring around brake drum
>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 05:10:04 -0700
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>About 20 years ago I had to replace a front brake drum on my 1963 coupe. At
>that time I examined the front drums closely. One had a round spring; the
>other had a flat spring. The drum came from the local Chevrolet dealer, and
>the spring was removed and installed on the replacement drum. So that '63
>still has one of each style.
>
>-Noland Adams
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Thanks, Jim and Wally for the info. I'll have to stop by Wally and take a
look

Regards
Dave

----- Original Message -----
From: <WaltPuffer@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 1:08 PM
Subject: 62 sprare tire cover


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hi Dave, I was at the Stanford Vette show last Saturday and had my cover
out
> to place the ice and beer in the wheel well and started to place the cover
in
> upside down and saw the foam your talking about. They are triangulary
placed
> around the metal cap that the bolt goes through to hold the cover down. If
this
> dont help, stop by and we can open my trunk and you can see for yourself.
I
> forgot they were even there....   or call, 1 313 292 9200,
Wally
> Knoch
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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go slow and eyeball it

>From: "tgrshrk99" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: >Subject:
Piston Ring Grinder Technique >Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 06:16:59 -0400 >
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Is there a trick
to keeping the ring square to the grinding wheel? Or does >one simply go
slow, grind one end, and "eyeball" it
>----------------------------------------------------- >For subscriber
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In a message dated 6/13/2003 6:37:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Christopher 
Ritchie
 writes:

> The springs were still available from Chevy a few months ago.  Around $10 
> each.  There is some controversy whether the original springs were round or 
> flat.
> 

Christopher,

The origional ones on my '61 were round.

Steve in Connecticut
STILL waiting for the rain to stop
'61 283/270
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/13/2003 9:53:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
SRMorse@redacted.email writes:


> The origional ones on my '61 were round.
> 

The springs on my '57 drums were also round.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I just purchased a complete set of "correct" cooling system hoses from a
well-respected vendor for my '66 327/300 with A/C, and the lower radiator
hose came without an internal spring.  I verified the existing lower hose
has a spring in it, and believe the new one should also.

Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.

I'm starting to think this is another one of those cases where I paid a
premium price for a correct repro. part....only to have the "joy" of
wrestling a used spring into the new hose.

Thanks,

Ed
NCRS #?

(As the vendors advertise, it's a "completely correct" repro. part:   BTW,
PTM - - Beat To Fit, Paint To Match!)




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Subject: Re: C2 - '66 Lower Rad Hose Spring
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In a message dated 6/13/2003 11:22:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ed.smalley@redacted.email writes:


> Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
> the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.

Ed -

       I've always bought my repro hoses from Paragon, and every lower hose 
I've ever gotten from them has had the spring in it.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: C2 - '66 Lower Rad Hose Spring
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In a message dated 6/13/2003 11:22:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ed.smalley@redacted.email writes:


> Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
> the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.

Ed -

       As a matter of fact, I got one from them a month ago for my '67 
327/300, which is the same hose yours uses - Paragon #1736, GM #3887155, $25.00.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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What about the 62's? I don't remember seeing any on the
one rear wheel i've had off.
Thanks!
Bob L. Hond.Mar.62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What alternatives do I have for making the front brake drums original on my 
'61?  As mentioned in a previous email, the drums on it are finned, not 
original.  I would like to come up with an original or 'like' original set 
of drums and springs for the car.

rex

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Kantor Auto Products has drums for C1's (just installed a set on my '58).
Not 100% accurate (no springs) but they fit fine. See my previous post RE:
Brake Drum Spring Install.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ditto for the springs on my 59; all round.
Bob
59 245hp
waving in San Diego

>On Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:14:31 -0400 (EDT) Snake488@redacted.email wrote.
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>In a message dated 6/13/2003 9:53:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>SRMorse@redacted.email writes:
>
>
>> The origional ones on my '61 were round.
>> 
>
>The springs on my '57 drums were also round.
>
>John Hinckley
>'67 300
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Bob
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>From the standpoint of judging, is it better to have Corvette replacement 
drums even though they have no springs than it would be to just reuse these 
finned drums?


>From: lovejoy@redacted.email
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: RE: Front brake drums/springs
>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 13:18:33 -0400
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Kantor Auto Products has drums for C1's (just installed a set on my '58).
>Not 100% accurate (no springs) but they fit fine. See my previous post RE:
>Brake Drum Spring Install.
>
>Best Regards from Connecticut,
>
>Mark S. Lovejoy
>-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Now that someone has brought the subject up...I have 5 repro Firestone 
whitewalls in 6.70x15 size on my 62 which have basically no miles on them.I 
believe they are Coker repros. If the spare is inflated correctly(about 24psi) 
the cover board is elevated about 1/2". If the original tires were 
6.70x15(which was an 82 or 83 profile) on stock 5" wheels, which is what I 
have....why doesn't the spare fit "properly"?? It appears that other folks have 
run into this problem and I was wondering what you had done to deal with it.
It won't be a real problem until I have the car ready for judging(probably 
several years from now) but "inquiring minds want to know"!!.

Hal Emrich
62 340HP
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Subject: Re: C2 - '66 Lower Rad Hose Spring
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

Thanks for the help.  Unless I just happened to receive a defective hose
(without the spring), I'd recommend other future hose purchasers confirm
the presence of the spring when they place an order from the "Dr. of
parts".

Also.... this may be one of the causes of the overheating woes experienced
by many owners!

Cheers,

Ed
NCRS #?


|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
|         |           Snake488@redacted.email                                 |
|         |           Sent by:                                         |
|         |           crpl-bounces+ed.smalley=gastechnology.org@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                                      |
|         |                                                            |
|         |                                                            |
|         |           06/13/2003 11:08 AM                              |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                           |
|         |                                                            |
|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  Re: C2 - '66 Lower Rad Hose Spring                                           |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/13/2003 11:22:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ed.smalley@redacted.email writes:


> Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
> the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.

Ed -

       As a matter of fact, I got one from them a month ago for my '67
327/300, which is the same hose yours uses - Paragon #1736, GM #3887155,
$25.00.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Same thing happened to me. I complained to the vendor and he said, "it's easy to transfer the spring from the old one to the new one." I had no intention of doing that, so I returned the hose, got my money refunded and bought one from a supplier who assured me that the spring was already installed. Unfortunately, I can't remember who I bought the good one from. Mark 66 conv.
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:21:53
From: ed.smalley@redacted.email
To: crpl@redacted.email
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>I just purchased a complete set of "correct" cooling system hoses from a
>well-respected vendor for my '66 327/300 with A/C, and the lower radiator
>hose came without an internal spring.  I verified the existing lower hose
>has a spring in it, and believe the new one should also.
>
>Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
>the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.
>
>I'm starting to think this is another one of those cases where I paid a
>premium price for a correct repro. part....only to have the "joy" of
>wrestling a used spring into the new hose.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ed
>NCRS #?
>
>(As the vendors advertise, it's a "completely correct" repro. part:   BTW,
>PTM - - Beat To Fit, Paint To Match!)
>
>
>
>
>**********************************************************************
>This communication is for the use of the intended recipient only.  
>It may contain information that is privileged and confidential.  
>If you are not the intended recipient of this communication, 
>any disclosure, copying, further distribution or use thereof is prohibited.  
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>please advise me by return e-mail or by telephone and delete/destroy it.
>
>**********************************************************************
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>



Need a new email address that people can remember
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 12:43:21 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Then vendor of the "springless" hose was the "Dr." another poster mentioned. Mark 66 conv.
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 12:40:19
From: "Mark" <66stingray@redacted.email>
To: crpl@redacted.email
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Same thing happened to me. I complained to the vendor and he said, "it's easy to transfer the spring from the old one to the new one." I had no intention of doing that, so I returned the hose, got my money refunded and bought one from a supplier who assured me that the spring was already installed. Unfortunately, I can't remember who I bought the good one from. Mark 66 conv.
>--
>
>--------- Original Message ---------
>
>DATE: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:21:53
>From: ed.smalley@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Cc: 
>
>>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>I just purchased a complete set of "correct" cooling system hoses from a
>>well-respected vendor for my '66 327/300 with A/C, and the lower radiator
>>hose came without an internal spring.  I verified the existing lower hose
>>has a spring in it, and believe the new one should also.
>>
>>Have other list members been successful in obtaining correct hoses, with
>>the spring?  If so, please provide the vendor name.
>>
>>I'm starting to think this is another one of those cases where I paid a
>>premium price for a correct repro. part....only to have the "joy" of
>>wrestling a used spring into the new hose.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ed
>>NCRS #?
>>
>>(As the vendors advertise, it's a "completely correct" repro. part:   BTW,
>>PTM - - Beat To Fit, Paint To Match!)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>**********************************************************************
>>This communication is for the use of the intended recipient only.  
>>It may contain information that is privileged and confidential.  
>>If you are not the intended recipient of this communication, 
>>any disclosure, copying, further distribution or use thereof is prohibited.  
>>If you have received this communication in error, 
>>please advise me by return e-mail or by telephone and delete/destroy it.
>>
>>**********************************************************************
>>-----------------------------------------------------
>>For subscriber information, see
>>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>>
>
>
>
>Need a new email address that people can remember
>Check out the new EudoraMail at
>http://www.eudoramail.com
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
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>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>



Need a new email address that people can remember
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Just reporting back that all went well with my intake. To recall, the thermo housing bolt hole threads (short one) pulled out when I replaced the thermostat. Later on, sfter we pulled the manifold for what we thought would be an welding job on the intake, my mechanic advised that the fitting for the heater hose pulled out. He helicoiled both and they're holding fine. He used paste teflon on the threads, an advisable step to eliminate corrosion. He also glassbeaded the manifold and it looks great. It's my original and the best part is that I was able to keep it. Thanks to all on the list that offered suggestions, help, etc. Mark 66 conv


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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm looking for Deluxe Door Panels for my '67 convertible. Lowest price
I've been able to find is from "The Last Detail" at $575/pair. Anyone
know if this is a reputable supplier? Any dealings stories you can share.

Anyone got suggestions of the best place/fairest price vendor for these? 
I've found prices ranging from $575 to $678 per pair.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I recently purchase Eckler's complete Ignition Shielding Kit. The
kit is nice enough and is advertised as the most complete kit available
for the price, and their catalog cautions you not to be fooled by other
less expensive and incomplete kits. So . . . I buy the kit which is over
$100 more than one from Corvette Central. When I opened the box I find
that the Top Shield is in another box with Corvette Central's logo. Do
you think they forgot to do something, like getting rid of the inner
Corvette Central box, before shipping? :-(

Tom Workman
AFAB Software
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
of door panels, carpet, seat, etc.  You would be surprised at the
variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
model.

I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products.  I have
had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
Go figure.

Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>Now it appears the front drums on this '61 are wrong.  They have fins.  The 
>back ones are the originals with the springs.


Fins?  Could these be drums from the heavy duty brakes option?

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>What about the 62's? I don't remember seeing any on the
>one rear wheel i've had off.

'62s were supposed to have the.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>What alternatives do I have for making the front brake drums original on my 
>'61?  As mentioned in a previous email, the drums on it are finned, not 
>original.  I would like to come up with an original or 'like' original set 
>of drums and springs for the car.


Rex, be careful about the use of the term "original" here.  There have been 
many intense "how-many-angels-can-dance-on-the-head-of-a-pin" type arguments 
on what is "original" and what is not.

I don't think you want "original."  Sounds like you want "functionally 
equivalent", or "OEM replacement."  Something that works, fits, bolts-on, 
and has the same or better quality than original.

If so, that's easy.  Your FLAPS probably has drums.  The Autozone in 
Roslindale, Massachusetts had them in stock a few months ago for around $20 
each.  Lots of Chevys used these drums.  They won't have the groove for the 
spring.  Kanter and all the usual Corvette vendors have shoes, wheel 
cylinders, hoses, springs, and hold -downs.  Also try your FLAPS.  It's 
almost a pleasure to buy this stuff because they're relatively cheap.  You 
get nosebleeds from buying other Corvette parts.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I bought a pair of sill plates from "The Last Detail" and they had the best
price and had no problems with them.  I also notice a lot of things that I
order come in Long Island Corvette packages even though I buy them
somewhere else.  I think Corvette repro parts are like VCR and DVD players,
one or two companies make all of them but sell them under different names.

Eddie

64   327 / 365

Scott Sparkman wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
> some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
> of door panels, carpet, seat, etc.  You would be surprised at the
> variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
> model.
>
> I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products.  I have
> had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
> that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
> Go figure.
>
> Scott Sparkman
> '72 LS5 convertible
> -----------------------------------------------------
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I'm confused and therefore I looked in a our database. I have a customer 
named Ed Smalley in Illinois with a 1969 400HP. And we sold him radiator hoses for 
that big block, but never for a 1966 small block. Who is the "Dr" of parts 
that sold you the hose for a 1966 small block that was missing a spring?

Thanks
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Well that's worrisome.  I'd not be sanguine with any vendor that publicly
released any of my purchase history with his company for any reason without
my consent........

Don Carey

> -----------------------------------------------------
> I'm confused and therefore I looked in a our database. I have a customer
> named Ed Smalley in Illinois with a 1969 400HP. And we sold him radiator
hoses for
> that big block, but never for a 1966 small block. Who is the "Dr" of parts
> that sold you the hose for a 1966 small block that was missing a spring?
>
> Thanks
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 15:19:29 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Tom,
Try Willcox Corvette(1-800-588-3883) or Willcox@redacted.email . I've purchased a lot of parts for my vettes from them over the years. They consistently have the best prices and are good to deal with. 
 
Good luck, Robert Doyle '82, '59 270
 


Tom C Workman <afabsw@redacted.email> wrote:
The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm looking for Deluxe Door Panels for my '67 convertible. Lowest price
I've been able to find is from "The Last Detail" at $575/pair. Anyone
know if this is a reputable supplier? Any dealings stories you can share.

Anyone got suggestions of the best place/fairest price vendor for these? 
I've found prices ranging from $575 to $678 per pair.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I recently purchase Eckler's complete Ignition Shielding Kit. The
kit is nice enough and is advertised as the most complete kit available
for the price, and their catalog cautions you not to be fooled by other
less expensive and incomplete kits. So . . . I buy the kit which is over
$100 more than one from Corvette Central. When I opened the box I find
that the Top Shield is in another box with Corvette Central's logo. Do
you think they forgot to do something, like getting rid of the inner
Corvette Central box, before shipping? :-(

Tom Workman
AFAB Software
"We live just to learn. Are we finally learning to live?"

________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Doc,

I'm the same Ed Smalley (from Illinois) that has been a good customer for
over a decade, and I appreciate your initiative in following up on this.

You are the Dr. that sold me the lower hose for the 1966 (327/300 with A/C
) with the missing spring.  The hose was ordered on May 22, 2003, as part
of a larger order.

Your database should show that I now live in Tomball, Texas.  It should
also reflect that I have made four parts orders (total >$650) from my Texas
address, the first in March-2002.  The bulk of these orders were parts  for
the 1966 small block that I acquired 3 years ago.  I still have the 1969.

I'm currently at work and don't have access to the invoice.  I will call
next week with the invoice details to discuss further.

Thanks,

Ed Smalley
31419 Helen Lane
Tomball, TX  77375


|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
|         |           Docrebuild@redacted.email                               |
|         |           Sent by:                                         |
|         |           crpl-bounces+ed.smalley=gastechnology.org@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                                      |
|         |                                                            |
|         |                                                            |
|         |           06/13/2003 04:50 PM                              |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                           |
|         |                                                            |
|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  Ed Smalley                                                                   |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm confused and therefore I looked in a our database. I have a customer
named Ed Smalley in Illinois with a 1969 400HP. And we sold him radiator
hoses for
that big block, but never for a 1966 small block. Who is the "Dr" of parts
that sold you the hose for a 1966 small block that was missing a spring?

Thanks
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com







**********************************************************************
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It may contain information that is privileged and confidential.  
If you are not the intended recipient of this communication, 
any disclosure, copying, further distribution or use thereof is prohibited.  
If you have received this communication in error, 
please advise me by return e-mail or by telephone and delete/destroy it.

**********************************************************************
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I apologize for my last post sent to the list.  I was in a rush and meant
to respond directly to the sender.

Ed





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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 16:25:50 2003
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 19:22:43 -0400
From: MPurton <mpurton@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Who or what is FLAPS?
Anybody know of a good source for '54 parts?
Thanks,
Mike Purton
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
           Brian
          Silver '62
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Who or what is FLAPS?
> Anybody know of a good source for '54 parts?
> Thanks,
> Mike Purton
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 17:01:14 2003
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 19:57:07 -0400
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
DUH!!!!
Thanks,  I should have known that.
Mike Purton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FI1oo16@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: FLAPS


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
>            Brian
>           Silver '62
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Who or what is FLAPS?
> > Anybody know of a good source for '54 parts?
> > Thanks,
> > Mike Purton
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 17:27:43 2003
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From: "Ray Carney" <rcarney5@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 20:29:48 -0400
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I rebuilt a Carter 3697S for my base 65. I set the floats at 5/16 inch per
63-shop manual. I had to back the car up a steep grade and the carburetor
seemed to flood, I also had a hard time restarting. On the WCFB's on my 61,
I set the floats lower than the recommend specs. Should this also be done on
the 3697S?

Thanks for any help!
Ray
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/13/2003 7:25:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mpurton@redacted.email writes:


> Anybody know of a good source for '54 parts?
> Thanks,
> Mike Purton
> 

Mike -

       Try Grossmueller's (www.gccorvettes.com), Mary Jo Rohner 
(www.vettegal.com), and Crane's (www.cranescorvette.com) for '54 stuff you can't find at 
the usual vendors (Paragon, Corvette Central, Zip, etc.).

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 19:38:14 2003
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Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I purchased replacement seat foam for my 64 from Al Knoch. When I received
them, molded into the foam was "Ecklers". Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Main" <evmain@redacted.email>
To: <scott@redacted.email>; <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I bought a pair of sill plates from "The Last Detail" and they had the
best
> price and had no problems with them.  I also notice a lot of things that I
> order come in Long Island Corvette packages even though I buy them
> somewhere else.  I think Corvette repro parts are like VCR and DVD
players,
> one or two companies make all of them but sell them under different names.
>
> Eddie
>
> 64   327 / 365
>
> Scott Sparkman wrote:
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
> > some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
> > of door panels, carpet, seat, etc.  You would be surprised at the
> > variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
> > model.
> >
> > I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products.  I have
> > had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
> > that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
> > Go figure.
> >
> > Scott Sparkman
> > '72 LS5 convertible
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 20:16:47 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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yes our 61 had round springs all around
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-----------------------------------------------------
watch out for the replacements, not only do they not have the springs, but 
they also aren't as deep.
-----------------------------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 22:48:52 -0500
From: "Gene.A.Paulsgrove-1" <gpaulsgrove@redacted.email>
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Subject: 1960 corvette wheel lug wrench
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If someone has what they know is an original wheel lug wrench for a 1960 corvette, please measure its dimensions for me, since mine is missing, and I might as well find a "correct" one instead of using one that came from something like a '70's Caprice or pickup.

What is the length of the straight section of the wrench, and what is the length of the angled section of the wrench.  What is the offset of the angled end from that of the straight section (or measure the angle between the straight and angled sections with a protractor).

For those paying attention to ebay, someone is listing lug wrenches with various dimensions in the corvette auto parts listings.  I must have a dozen of these Chev wheel lug wrenches from my various pickups and passenger cars, and these cars wouldn't miss the wrench if I took it for the corvette.

Thanks, Gene
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Ed,

Too bad I was not informed of your plight directly. If you wish, I can send 
you a spring to use.

I did not know you had moved, and only looked under the old address which 
apparently is also still in our data base. I stopped at that zip code, not 
realizing you were also listed under a numerically higher zip code.

I had my wife check the hoses in stock at the warehouse. That is one of two 
hoses that comes WITHOUT a spring. The other is the 68-72 SB aluminum radiator 
lower hose numbered 3917699. Both hoses are actually manufactured by Goodyear, 
not me. We buy it from another well known supplier and those two do not come 
with springs. Go figure.

Geoffrey Coenen
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 13 21:05:32 2003
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hello Tom, I can deliver to you as a member, door panels for 600.00 cash.  
Our interior products are considered the standard of the industry. If 
interested,  E mail waltpuffer@redacted.email  or visit my site at <A HREF="http://www.nitroalley.net">http://www.nitroalley.net</A>   
Thanks,  Wally Knoch
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Ray,
For different reasons, I generally set the floats on WCFB's from 1/16" to 
1/8" lower than specified in the rebuild instruction sheet. Starting with 1/16" 
and experiment lower if necessary. Regareds, Jim Frakes
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Thanks! Jim

I will re-adjust when the car returns from having the convertible top
installed.

Ray
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Tom,
    Sorry to say it, but you've been had.  Personally, I got jipped enough
times like that from Ecklers that I quit getting anything from them.  I swear
that most of the stuff they sell is from other vendors. It looks to me like
they pay the same price you would have from the vendor you could have got it
direct from and then mark it up about 100% to sell it to you.  I'd have to be
a real desperado to buy anything from them again. GLUCK !
Greg Bares
'74 L82 coupe
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In late March, I ordered a set of repro seatbelts from CC for my '62, serial
#8287.  They arrived this past week, and looked very well-made, but the tags
were wrong and were correct for earlier serial #s than mine (had a "CAA"
instead of "Federal" specification).  The buckle had the patent # ending in
"810", which the chart in the judging manual says would be appropriate,
although the text says that "CS5000" was predominantly used at the time my
car crossed the threshold.  CC contacted their supplier, whom they said was
Sun West in California (although I can't find them in Google or Thomas
Register), and they can't make the tag my car needs.  So my question for
y'all is, what to do?  Should I get my nearly $300 back, or just use these
otherwise excellent belts?  What kind of point hit would I take for these
tags?  Thanks in advance!  -John  '62
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In a message dated 6/14/2003 11:02:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jturner100@redacted.email writes:


> So my question for
> y'all is, what to do?  Should I get my nearly $300 back, or just use these
> otherwise excellent belts?  What kind of point hit would I take for these
> tags?  Thanks in advance!  -John  '62
> 

John -

       Don't have the '62 JG, but on a '67, the belts/buckles/tags carry 14 
originality points, so 3 or 4 points would be allocated to the tags, and those 
points are split 5 ways by Configuration, Installation, Completeness, Finish, 
and Date dimensions; depending on the judge's discretion, might cost you a 
point or two.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: update on spring in lower rad hose
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
 i just replaced the original rad hoses on my silverado with genuine AC
delco ones and neither the original bottom hose that came on the truck or
the replacemant hose had a spring in them. there may be a new way of
making hoses now that do not require the spring and it is left out to cut
cost.

>From: Docrebuild@redacted.email >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: hose and spring >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003
00:02:37 EDT > >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Ed, > >Too bad I
was not informed of your plight directly. If you wish, I can send >you a
spring to use. > >I did not know you had moved, and only looked under the
old address which >apparently is also still in our data base. I stopped
at that zip code, not >realizing you were also listed under a numerically
higher zip code. > >I had my wife check the hoses in stock at the
warehouse. That is one of two >hoses that comes WITHOUT a spring. The
other is the 68-72 SB aluminum radiator >lower hose numbered 3917699.
Both hoses are actually manufactured by Goodyear, >not me. We buy it from
another well known supplier and those two do not come >with springs. Go
figure. > >Geoffrey Coenen
>----------------------------------------------------- >For subscriber
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-----------------------------------------------------
I bought a top from Al Knoch after checking all the other vendors.  People at Al Knoch told me they sold tops to Ecklers.  I bought a weatherstrip kit from The Last Detail and it was drop shipped to me from a place called Corvette Parts Depot.   It simply costs too much to manufacture a part like a top for such a limited market. Thus the company that produces tops for many autos will make them for a " Corvette Supply Co" then that Co will supply other vendors.  The closer you get to the source after the manufacturer the better the price.   Derrick 64/Santa Barbara
Joe Pennington <joep1522@redacted.email> wrote: The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I purchased replacement seat foam for my 64 from Al Knoch. When I received
them, molded into the foam was "Ecklers". Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Main" 
To: ; 
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I bought a pair of sill plates from "The Last Detail" and they had the
best
> price and had no problems with them. I also notice a lot of things that I
> order come in Long Island Corvette packages even though I buy them
> somewhere else. I think Corvette repro parts are like VCR and DVD
players,
> one or two companies make all of them but sell them under different names.
>
> Eddie
>
> 64 327 / 365
>
> Scott Sparkman wrote:
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
> > some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
> > of door panels, carpet, seat, etc. You would be surprised at the
> > variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
> > model.
> >
> > I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products. I have
> > had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
> > that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
> > Go figure.
> >
> > Scott Sparkman
> > '72 LS5 convertible
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Guys, most of my experience with Holleys has been with the Double-Pumper 
mechanical secondary carbs.  I have a 2818 on my '64 365 Coupe and despite 
switching carbs (including using one redone by Jerry Luck) I can not get 
what I consider to be uniform secondary operation.  My understanding of 
proper vacuum secondary operation is that they should open gradually so that 
you do not feel a sudden, all-at-once increase in power.  But that is how 
the power comes on for my engine,with a sudden jerk.  Plus the secondary 
opening does not always happen at the same RPM level at full 
throttle--sometimes it happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes much later(too 
late).  Naturally I have experimented with the various springs offered by 
Holley but only the weakest springs let the secondaries function at all.  
Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks, Ralph Boineau.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
It may depend on what you buy from Eckler's.  I have bought things from them
that were cheaper than other sellers.  And I have checked ad-nauseum to
ensure I got the best price.

I do know that Corvette Central has decent prices, but no customer service.
The order taker on the phone could not answer any questions I had.  He sent
me to a tech support number.  I left my name and number, but never received
a call back.  I then bought from Rik's Corvette.  I paid a higher price, but
they can answer your questions.  Since most of these vendors have pretty
much the same stuff, I would recommend someone other than Corvette Central.
Zip's has a huge inventory and can answer questions ( I actually got a
callback from their tech support guy).  Zip's items are not cheap - but they
are good.




-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Greg Bares
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:53 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info ...


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Tom,
    Sorry to say it, but you've been had.  Personally, I got jipped enough
times like that from Ecklers that I quit getting anything from them.  I
swear
that most of the stuff they sell is from other vendors. It looks to me like
they pay the same price you would have from the vendor you could have got it
direct from and then mark it up about 100% to sell it to you.  I'd have to
be
a real desperado to buy anything from them again. GLUCK !
Greg Bares
'74 L82 coupe
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Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
does your carb have the ball bearing check valve in the diaphram housing?
if it is there make sure it is free to move.. the secondary vacuum
diaphram get the vacuum from a passage drilled into the primary
venturi with a passage also into the secondary venturi to assist the
opening once the primary vacuum starts to pull the secondary open. check
these passage for obstructions and also make sure the little round cork
washer is in the housing to seal the diaphram housing to the main body
vacuum source. i can scan you a sketch from holley how this all works if
you want it. clem

>From: "Ralph Boineau" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
>Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 17:33:15 +0000 > >The Corvette Restoration and
Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Guys, most of my
experience with Holleys has been with the >Double-Pumper mechanical
secondary carbs. I have a 2818 on my '64 >365 Coupe and despite switching
carbs (including using one redone by >Jerry Luck) I can not get what I
consider to be uniform secondary >operation. My understanding of proper
vacuum secondary operation is >that they should open gradually so that
you do not feel a sudden, >all-at-once increase in power. But that is how
the power comes on >for my engine,with a sudden jerk. Plus the secondary
opening does >not always happen at the same RPM level at full
throttle--sometimes >it happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes much
later(too late). >Naturally I have experimented with the various springs
offered by >Holley but only the weakest springs let the secondaries
function at >all. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Ralph Boineau.
> >_________________________________________________________________
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I've noticed that my fan belt is wearing unevenly, and was wondering if
the I have the generator bracket mounted incorrectly. I really couldn't
tell from Noland's book if the bracket goes in the forward most part of
the generator mounting holes or the "fire wall" side of the generator.
steve meltzer, "I may be wrong, but I'm never in doubt" (well, I guess
this time I am!)
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
When Jerry Luck did a 2818 Holley for me, it came back without a check ball, 
so I called him.  He said he did not use them.  I have tried three 2818s, 
one NOS, both with and without the check ball and I can see no difference.  
But thanks for your input.  Regards, Ralph Boineau



>From: "Clem Zahrobsky" <clemz9@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
>Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:25:21 +0000
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>does your carb have the ball bearing check valve in the diaphram housing?
>if it is there make sure it is free to move.. the secondary vacuum
>diaphram get the vacuum from a passage drilled into the primary
>venturi with a passage also into the secondary venturi to assist the
>opening once the primary vacuum starts to pull the secondary open. check
>these passage for obstructions and also make sure the little round cork
>washer is in the housing to seal the diaphram housing to the main body
>vacuum source. i can scan you a sketch from holley how this all works if
>you want it. clem
>
> >From: "Ralph Boineau" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
>crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
> >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 17:33:15 +0000 > >The Corvette Restoration and
>Preservation List (CRPL)
> >----------------------------------------------------- >Guys, most of my
>experience with Holleys has been with the >Double-Pumper mechanical
>secondary carbs. I have a 2818 on my '64 >365 Coupe and despite switching
>carbs (including using one redone by >Jerry Luck) I can not get what I
>consider to be uniform secondary >operation. My understanding of proper
>vacuum secondary operation is >that they should open gradually so that
>you do not feel a sudden, >all-at-once increase in power. But that is how
>the power comes on >for my engine,with a sudden jerk. Plus the secondary
>opening does >not always happen at the same RPM level at full
>throttle--sometimes >it happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes much
>later(too late). >Naturally I have experimented with the various springs
>offered by >Holley but only the weakest springs let the secondaries
>function at >all. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Ralph Boineau.
> > >_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
you can change the how and when the seconary opens by tapping the hole
into the secondary ventutri for a 6-32 allen set screw and drilling
different size holes thru the set screws.. several companies sell this
setup.

>From: "Ralph Boineau" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year
Holley >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 20:44:21 +0000 > >The Corvette Restoration
and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >When Jerry Luck
did a 2818 Holley for me, it came back without a >check ball, so I called
him. He said he did not use them. I have >tried three 2818s, one NOS,
both with and without the check ball and >I can see no difference. But
thanks for your input. Regards, Ralph >Boineau > > > >>From: "Clem
Zahrobsky" >>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >>To:
crpl@redacted.email >>Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year
Holley >>Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:25:21 +0000 >> >>The Corvette
Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>----------------------------------------------------- >>does your carb
have the ball bearing check valve in the diaphram >>housing? >>if it is
there make sure it is free to move.. the secondary vacuum >>diaphram get
the vacuum from a passage drilled into the primary >>venturi with a
passage also into the secondary venturi to assist >>the >>opening once
the primary vacuum starts to pull the secondary >>open. check >>these
passage for obstructions and also make sure the little round >>cork
>>washer is in the housing to seal the diaphram housing to the main
>>body >>vacuum source. i can scan you a sketch from holley how this all
>>works if >>you want it. clem >> >> >From: "Ralph Boineau" >Reply-To:
crpl@redacted.email >To: >>crpl@redacted.email >Subject:
Secondary operation on mid-year >>Holley >> >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003
17:33:15 +0000 > >The Corvette Restoration >>and >>Preservation List
(CRPL) >> >----------------------------------------------------- >Guys,
most >>of my >>experience with Holleys has been with the >Double-Pumper
mechanical >>secondary carbs. I have a 2818 on my '64 >365 Coupe and
despite >>switching >>carbs (including using one redone by >Jerry Luck) I
can not get >>what I >>consider to be uniform secondary >operation. My
understanding of >>proper >>vacuum secondary operation is >that they
should open gradually so >>that >>you do not feel a sudden, >all-at-once
increase in power. But that >>is how >>the power comes on >for my
engine,with a sudden jerk. Plus the >>secondary >>opening does >not
always happen at the same RPM level at full >>throttle--sometimes >it
happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes much >>later(too late). >Naturally I
have experimented with the various >>springs >>offered by >Holley but
only the weakest springs let the secondaries >>function at >all. Any
input would be appreciated. Thanks, Ralph >>Boineau. >> > >>
>_________________________________________________________________ >>
>Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. >>
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun 14 18:57:43 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hmmm, I've gotten calls back from Corvette Central and Paragon, both informing me if they had a certain part. In the case of Paragon, it was a question on availability of a used part, of course they do a big business in that realm; with Corvette Central it was a tech support guy, who wanted to verify the exact part I needed--he was very helpful and took his time to answer my questions. I guess everybody could tell these stories. Mark 66 conv. 
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 12:45:27
From: "sbrown3" <sbrown3@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>It may depend on what you buy from Eckler's.  I have bought things from them
>that were cheaper than other sellers.  And I have checked ad-nauseum to
>ensure I got the best price.
>
>I do know that Corvette Central has decent prices, but no customer service.
>The order taker on the phone could not answer any questions I had.  He sent
>me to a tech support number.  I left my name and number, but never received
>a call back.  I then bought from Rik's Corvette.  I paid a higher price, but
>they can answer your questions.  Since most of these vendors have pretty
>much the same stuff, I would recommend someone other than Corvette Central.
>Zip's has a huge inventory and can answer questions ( I actually got a
>callback from their tech support guy).  Zip's items are not cheap - but they
>are good.
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
>[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
>Greg Bares
>Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:53 AM
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info ...
>
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Tom,
>    Sorry to say it, but you've been had.  Personally, I got jipped enough
>times like that from Ecklers that I quit getting anything from them.  I
>swear
>that most of the stuff they sell is from other vendors. It looks to me like
>they pay the same price you would have from the vendor you could have got it
>direct from and then mark it up about 100% to sell it to you.  I'd have to
>be
>a real desperado to buy anything from them again. GLUCK !
>Greg Bares
>'74 L82 coupe
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>



Need a new email address that people can remember
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Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 23:27:49 -0500
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
will these early 70's full size GM sedan compact spares fit the lug pattern
and into the spare tub of a '54?
Kelly NCRS 38532 SACC2370
----- Original Message -----
From: <lovejoy@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 7:13 AM
Subject: RE: Spare tire size for 62


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Try a compact spare out of a early 70's full sized GM sedan. I have four
of
> them that I use to roll around project cars. They fit into the well with
> room to spare (no pun intended) and show up at swap meets regularly. I ran
> with one for three years until Chris Ritchie gave me a tire that fit
(thanks
> again Chris, trying for Top Flight this fall!).
>
> Best Regards from Connecticut,
>
> Mark S. Lovejoy
> '58 290 F.I.
> NCRS #27152
> SACC # ????
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
	The AIM shows where the headlight circuit breaker bracket mounts in a
samll square hole in the driver side hinge pillar, but where does the
power window circuit breaker mount?

	Also, has anyone ever had one of these go bad?  I'm asking because I'm
planning an extended cross-country tour (Miami to Carlise and then on to
Montana on the way to California and then through Texas on the way back
to Miami) this summer, and am going over what spares to bring along.

	Thanks,

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe
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From: David Drenzek <ddrenzek293590MI@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I just did a complete brake job on my 62. Had springs at all corners.

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christopher Ritchie" <critchie1@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: Spring around brake drum


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> >What about the 62's? I don't remember seeing any on the
> >one rear wheel i've had off.
> 
> '62s were supposed to have the.
> 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Nick, it mounts in the same area about 4 inches above the headlight breaker.
I just looked at mine to verify it. Never seen a bad one though in three
hundred thousand miles!
That sounds like quite a trip. It will put you in league with Sebring Bill
Herron.
My longest trip in a Corvette was in my 67 a/c conv.- Miami to North
Carolina to New Orleans to Bloomington to Ocean City New Jersey and back to
Miami. The last 200 miles on a trailer due to a left rear wheel bearing that
melted in front of the track at Daytona.
Good luck on such an ambitious journey.
Ken
66 coupe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nicolas Sakellis" <nsakellis@redacted.email>
To: "crpl@redacted.email" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 12:26 AM
Subject: C2 Power Window Circuit Breaker


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The AIM shows where the headlight circuit breaker bracket mounts in a
> samll square hole in the driver side hinge pillar, but where does the
> power window circuit breaker mount?
>
> Also, has anyone ever had one of these go bad?  I'm asking because I'm
> planning an extended cross-country tour (Miami to Carlise and then on to
> Montana on the way to California and then through Texas on the way back
> to Miami) this summer, and am going over what spares to bring along.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick Sakellis
> '66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ken,

	Thanks for the coordinates on the circuit breaker mounting and 
well wishes for my trip.  Your trip was pretty ambitious as well!

	I'm doing mine as a "50th Celebration" thing . . . fifty years of
Corvette and, well, me. :)  Aside from being something I've wanted to do
ever since I was a kid, you could also say its my way of "fighting back"
that AARP letter they kick out when you turn fifty!

	By the time I hit the road in time for Carlise, both trailing arms,
differential, transmission, clutch, heads, distributor, carburator,
starter, alternator, voltage regulator, engine and dash wiring
harnesses, heater core, water pump, fan clutch, and front end will among
the things that have been rebuilt or replaced within the past year, so
my car is going to be in pretty good shape starting out at least.

	I made a 1,500 mile run back to Miami when I first bought my car and,
while in retrospect that was not the smartest thing to do (but I was too
"off the scope" happy about finding the year, color, and options I had
been looking for over two years to think straight) made it without any
problems and averaged about 18 mile per gallon (L79 w/ 3.35 rear).

	I don't know if I'll do any better gas mileage-wise this time around,
but I'll sure have a better sense of my car and where to look if
problems develop.

	Okay, now you've got me going . . . and I'm going to start searhing
list archives for "Sebring Bill"!

		Nick


Ken Edmunds wrote:
> 
> Nick, it mounts in the same area about 4 inches above the headlight breaker.
> I just looked at mine to verify it. Never seen a bad one though in three
> hundred thousand miles!
> That sounds like quite a trip. It will put you in league with Sebring Bill
> Herron.
> My longest trip in a Corvette was in my 67 a/c conv.- Miami to North
> Carolina to New Orleans to Bloomington to Ocean City New Jersey and back to
> Miami. The last 200 miles on a trailer due to a left rear wheel bearing that
> melted in front of the track at Daytona.
> Good luck on such an ambitious journey.
> Ken
> 66 coupe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nicolas Sakellis" <nsakellis@redacted.email>
> To: "crpl@redacted.email" <crpl@redacted.email>
> Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 12:26 AM
> Subject: C2 Power Window Circuit Breaker
> 
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > The AIM shows where the headlight circuit breaker bracket mounts in a
> > samll square hole in the driver side hinge pillar, but where does the
> > power window circuit breaker mount?
> >
> > Also, has anyone ever had one of these go bad?  I'm asking because I'm
> > planning an extended cross-country tour (Miami to Carlise and then on to
> > Montana on the way to California and then through Texas on the way back
> > to Miami) this summer, and am going over what spares to bring along.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Nick Sakellis
> > '66 Coupe
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
When I hooked up the battery in my '72 to finally start it up, I noticed
the brake lights were staying on.  I looked under the dash and the brake
pedal is not contacting the brake switch.

 

It seems like the pedal is not traveling far enough back.  I can pull on
the pedal to make it contact the switch but it will not return there
after I depress the pedal.  I removed the power brake booster when I was
working in the engine compartment but didn't do anything to it.  If I
remove the rod from the pedal, it comes back another inch.

 

Everything was working before I started my resto (over a year ago).
Could something be wrong with the booster now?  Is there an adjustment?

 

HELP!  I'm ready to start my car and I can't drive it on the street.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 
-----------------------------------------------------
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I have a an original  BG with 4sp transmission. Difficult to shift from 1st 
to 2nd gear.All other gears are find...Any thoughts.....Car has not been 
tampered with.
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 15 19:25:51 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>I've noticed that my fan belt is wearing unevenly, and was wondering if
>the I have the generator bracket mounted incorrectly. I really couldn't
>tell from Noland's book if the bracket goes in the forward most part of
>the generator mounting holes or the "fire wall" side of the generator.

There's a few of these brackets, and I believe that the '62s have 2 kinds 
that are different from other years.  My point being to make sure you've got 
the right one.  Then there's the matter of the washer/spacer that goes in 
behind the harmonic balancer.  This spacer makes the balancer stick out 
about 1/8" to align with the water pump pulley.  The water pump pulley 
protrudes about 1/8" because of the front motor mount.  Make sure those 2 
things are right.  Then I believe you want to mount the bracket in such a 
way so that it is in its forwardmost position towards the front of the car.

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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 15 19:36:12 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>will these early 70's full size GM sedan compact spares fit the lug pattern
>and into the spare tub of a '54?

Yes.  They'll fit in the tub and the lug pattern is the same.  But the hub 
opening on the wheel may be just a tad too small to seat properly.  Or, if 
it does seat, to come off easily.  Try it.  But if the fit of the wheel hub 
opening onto the wheel hub is tight, file a little material off the wheel 
opening.  Try both the front and the rear.  I seem to remember one is 
slightly bigger than the other.  We're talking 64s of inches here, so it may 
not be a problem for some wheels on some hubs.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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You probably already tried this... the brake light switch is adjustable.
It can be moved fore or aft about 3/4".

It is a PITA to get underneath there.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 16 05:08:31 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What goes around comes around.......bought parts from CC with Paragon on the
box....really confusing if you need to return something...who is the
vendor????   :(  Keep the invoices handy.
Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 4:40 PM
Subject: RE: Parts Supplier Info


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
> some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
> of door panels, carpet, seat, etc.  You would be surprised at the
> variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
> model.
>
> I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products.  I have
> had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
> that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
> Go figure.
>
> Scott Sparkman
> '72 LS5 convertible
> -----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 16 05:14:56 2003
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I hate to beat up people about parts......but I have purchased quite a bit
lately and it is really hit or miss most of the time, one thing for sure,
Ecklers is not on my favorite list. A lot of stuff failed right out of the
box or showed up damaged because of their poor packing. The UPS man asked me
if I wanted to refuse because the part was physically sticking out of the
box. Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bares" <gsbares@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Parts Supplier Info ...


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Tom,
>     Sorry to say it, but you've been had.  Personally, I got jipped enough
> times like that from Ecklers that I quit getting anything from them.  I
swear
> that most of the stuff they sell is from other vendors. It looks to me
like
> they pay the same price you would have from the vendor you could have got
it
> direct from and then mark it up about 100% to sell it to you.  I'd have to
be
> a real desperado to buy anything from them again. GLUCK !
> Greg Bares
> '74 L82 coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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From: "Swartz, Dan J. [PWS/PIT]" <Dan.Swartz@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Other than internal problems, (syncro rings) you may only need to adjust
your shifter linkage. Check your repair manual our you may find a previous
posting in the archives that describes the procedure.

Regards,
Dan Swartz
69L46coupe




-----Original Message-----
From: EDGOLD@redacted.email [mailto:EDGOLD@redacted.email]
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 12:21 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: 69 Corvette


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have a an original  BG with 4sp transmission. Difficult to shift from 1st 
to 2nd gear.All other gears are find...Any thoughts.....Car has not been 
tampered with.
-----------------------------------------------------
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Is this a numbers matching car or has the original engine been replaced by
an over the counter L-89?


John H
'77 coupe
Orlando, FL




-----Original Message-----
From: Mike and Carol [mailto:mkirsh@redacted.email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:27 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: '67 L89 on eBay


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Browsing eBay and saw this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6168&
item=2418767786

Wow!  They didn't make many of those...
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From: Bill Herron <sebringbill@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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My 57 has round springs on the rear drums.  (Disk brake conversion on the front - I can't get to the box to confirm it but my memory says round ones are there, too.)  

Bill Herron
1957 & 1997
11 forward speeds 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Happy fathers day to all.  I have learned more from you all in the last 
couple of years than I have in all my 52.

Rich Marchese -- 57 #1261 almost ready for paint.
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 16 07:02:06 2003
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
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Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:22:01 -0500
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Subject: RE: C3 Power Brake Pedal
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
After I sent that message I thought about adding that I did look at the
brake light switch.  It is adjusted all the way out so there is no help
there.

 

I don't think I messed with anything under the dash when I pulled the
drivers side dash out.  I pulled the booster off the car when I was
working in the engine compartment but that's about it.

 

I will see if I inadvertently moved the switch bracket.  I tried bending
it a little to see if that helps but it didn't.

 

My memory is a little bad on brake pedal height before I started working
on my car.  Can someone give me an idea the distance of the pedal to the
floor on a C3 with power brakes and 4 speed?

 

Thanks.

 

And yes Lee it is a PITA to work under that dash!

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 6:45 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: C3 Power Brake Pedal

 

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)

-----------------------------------------------------

You probably already tried this... the brake light switch is adjustable.

It can be moved fore or aft about 3/4".

 

It is a PITA to get underneath there.

 

Lee Snyder

1974 Coupe

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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If the trans has never been "done" it is probably the 2nd gear synchro....they 
seem to take the most "beating" over the life of a car.

Hal Emrich
Former 69 L46 Top Flight owner
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I've been watching this tread regarding parts and pricing from various
vendor's. I don't think the corvette parts business is any different than
any wholesale/retail business be it corvette parts or building materials.
Yes, there are many parts that are only manufactured by one or two
manufacturers and wholesaled to various retailers. Generally you can get a
better price if you locate the manufacturer, however most manufacturers, if
they sell direct to the public at all will sell at the retail price level. 

Regarding the purchasing parts from one supplier and receiving them from
someone else, hey it's a big business and I'm sure that these guy's are
helping each other out all the time. It helps you get your parts faster and
makes you happy.

IMHO the supplier that sold you the part is the guy you deal with if there
is a problem. He is the one who took your money and your recourse is with
him. 

Regards,
Dan Swartz
69L46Coupe



-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Sparkman [mailto:scott@redacted.email]
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 4:40 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: Parts Supplier Info


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I don't know about "The Last Detail" but when I was looking at replacing
some of my interior pieces I contacted several companies to get samples
of door panels, carpet, seat, etc.  You would be surprised at the
variety of colors you can get that all claim to be correct for your year
model.

I usually buy my parts from Corvette Central or Zip Products.  I have
had several parts that I have bought from CC because they were cheaper
that still had the Zip sticker on the package with a CC sticker over it.
Go figure.

Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
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From: Nicolas Sakellis <nsakellis@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
	Thinking it would be more helpful than it turned out to be, I picked-up
a copy about a year ago of the "Official" "GM Restoration Parts
Reference Guide" which lists all the various licensees.

	I expected to, and did, see Quantra (for belts), DeWitt (for
radiators), LOF Glass (now Plinkington for window glass), Dobbins (for
decals), and a few other familiar names like Paragon for various other
items.

	But what really surprised me was page after page after page where
Ecklers was listed as the licensee. . . and, in many instances, it was
for stuff which it seems very unlikely they would make themselves.

	My guess, and its just a guess, is that Ecklers saw an opportuninity
to, and did, get the jump on a lot of vendors/ manufacturers back
whenever it was that GM first started to license "GM Reproduction
Parts".

	Its only speculation on my part, but it would seem, on the stuff they
do hold a license for and do not make, that they would have some type of
deal with the guys who do not and do.

	I haven't bought anything from Ecklers in quite a while, and, with a
mid-year, have been able to get, and been pleased with, most things
through LIC and Paragon.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe	
    

hudlerb1 wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> What goes around comes around.......bought parts from CC with Paragon on the
> box....really confusing if you need to return something...who is the
> vendor????   :(  Keep the invoices handy.
> Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces
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Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:32:05 -0600
From: Joe Lewis <joe@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: C3 Power Brake Pedal
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Have someone stand behind the car as you (in park/neutral is fine) push 
on the brake pedal.  A bad electrical ground will mess those up 
(boosters usually don't go bad and cause these kinds of symptoms).  If 
you have the original pigtails in there (sockets for the rear lights), I 
would first check those for the bad ground, then work your way forward.

Joe '77

Scott Sparkman wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> After I sent that message I thought about adding that I did look at the
> brake light switch.  It is adjusted all the way out so there is no help
> there.
> 
>  
> 
> I don't think I messed with anything under the dash when I pulled the
> drivers side dash out.  I pulled the booster off the car when I was
> working in the engine compartment but that's about it.
> 
>  
> 
> I will see if I inadvertently moved the switch bracket.  I tried bending
> it a little to see if that helps but it didn't.
> 
>  
> 
> My memory is a little bad on brake pedal height before I started working
> on my car.  Can someone give me an idea the distance of the pedal to the
> floor on a C3 with power brakes and 4 speed?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks.
> 
>  
> 
> And yes Lee it is a PITA to work under that dash!
> 
>  
> 
> Scott Sparkman
> 
> '72 LS5 convertible
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email
> [mailto:crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
> lee.snyder@redacted.email
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 6:45 AM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Re: C3 Power Brake Pedal
> 
>  
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> You probably already tried this... the brake light switch is adjustable.
> 
> It can be moved fore or aft about 3/4".
> 
>  
> 
> It is a PITA to get underneath there.
> 
>  
> 
> Lee Snyder
> 
> 1974 Coupe
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> For subscriber information, see
> 
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> 
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> 
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> 
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The brake pedal does not contact the brake light switch when my foot is
off the brakes - that is making the brake lights stay on.

I can't adjust the switch since it is all the way out.  Assuming I did
not move the switch or brackets or brake pedal attachments, I could only
come up with the booster limiting rearward travel of the pedal.

I might be all wrong here.  I pulled the booster off and it did not
appear to be malfunctioning or have anything in it (the filter is in
place).  The booster is a little over a year old so it is in good shape.
I was able to bleed my brakes so it works that way.

Maybe I'm making too much out of this but it bothers me when I don't
think I messed with something and now it doesn't work like it did
before.  (maybe that's the nature of the beast).

Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Remember, vacuum secondaries will open when the vacuum reaches a 
specific level (depends on the exact setup).  That means that WOT at 
3000 RPM and cruising at 3000 RPM will have different characteristics. 
If this is not what differentiates between the differing opening points, 
you need to check the diaphram and the linkage for the secondary 
controls.  I would :

   1) Get the vacuum rod length the right length
   2) Use a heavier spring

The heavier spring should make it a more gradual opening, but to get to 
that point, you will need to adjust the metering rod lengths.  I know 
the old holleys were "adjustable" in this fashion by bending the rods 
(even their support "experts" told people to do this).

Joe '77

Ralph Boineau wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Guys, most of my experience with Holleys has been with the Double-Pumper 
> mechanical secondary carbs.  I have a 2818 on my '64 365 Coupe and 
> despite switching carbs (including using one redone by Jerry Luck) I can 
> not get what I consider to be uniform secondary operation.  My 
> understanding of proper vacuum secondary operation is that they should 
> open gradually so that you do not feel a sudden, all-at-once increase in 
> power.  But that is how the power comes on for my engine,with a sudden 
> jerk.  Plus the secondary opening does not always happen at the same RPM 
> level at full throttle--sometimes it happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes 
> much later(too late).  Naturally I have experimented with the various 
> springs offered by Holley but only the weakest springs let the 
> secondaries function at all.  Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks, 
> Ralph Boineau.
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. 
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Scott,
I'm a C1 guy and know very little re C3's.  I've never even had the
priviledge of riding in a C3.  That said, in a C1 there's a spring to
assist the return of the pedal to the brake light switch.  It runs from
little bracket attached to the the brake pedal pushrod clevis pin to a
hole towards the rear of the car on the the pedal assy bracket.  Any
chance your C3 is supposed to have something like that too?
Greg Mankin

--- Scott Sparkman <scott@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The brake pedal does not contact the brake light switch when my foot
> is
> off the brakes - that is making the brake lights stay on.
> 
> I can't adjust the switch since it is all the way out.  Assuming I
> did
> not move the switch or brackets or brake pedal attachments, I could
> only
> come up with the booster limiting rearward travel of the pedal.
> 
> I might be all wrong here.  I pulled the booster off and it did not
> appear to be malfunctioning or have anything in it (the filter is in
> place).  The booster is a little over a year old so it is in good
> shape.
> I was able to bleed my brakes so it works that way.
> 
> Maybe I'm making too much out of this but it bothers me when I don't
> think I messed with something and now it doesn't work like it did
> before.  (maybe that's the nature of the beast).
> 
> Scott Sparkman
> '72 LS5 convertible
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


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Subject: Re: C3 Power Brake Pedal
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
FYI

On my '77, the only "return" mechanism is in the brake booster itself. 
It functions on a simple physics lever, pushing a rod  at the back of 
the booster, which has the spring built in.  Diagnosing a simple system 
like this is rather nice.

If a brake pedal fails to return, the booster's spring has failed.  If 
pushing the pedal fails to move the rod in the master cylinder, the 
boosters diaphragm has failed.  If the rod moves in the master cylinder, 
and the pedal returns to normal position, braking problems are either in 
the brake lines or the caliper assemblies.

Joe

Greg Mankin wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Scott,
> I'm a C1 guy and know very little re C3's.  I've never even had the
> priviledge of riding in a C3.  That said, in a C1 there's a spring to
> assist the return of the pedal to the brake light switch.  It runs from
> little bracket attached to the the brake pedal pushrod clevis pin to a
> hole towards the rear of the car on the the pedal assy bracket.  Any
> chance your C3 is supposed to have something like that too?
> Greg Mankin
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm a C2 guy so I don't know if this will be of any help, but in C2s the rod
has an adjustable screw in the end which will change it's length and push
the brake pedal accordingly. Any chance your setup has an adjustment on the
rod, and you accidentally changed it when you had it apart?
Ken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Lewis" <joe@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: C3 Power Brake Pedal


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> FYI
>
> On my '77, the only "return" mechanism is in the brake booster itself.
> It functions on a simple physics lever, pushing a rod  at the back of
> the booster, which has the spring built in.  Diagnosing a simple system
> like this is rather nice.
>
> If a brake pedal fails to return, the booster's spring has failed.  If
> pushing the pedal fails to move the rod in the master cylinder, the
> boosters diaphragm has failed.  If the rod moves in the master cylinder,
> and the pedal returns to normal position, braking problems are either in
> the brake lines or the caliper assemblies.
>
> Joe
>
> Greg Mankin wrote:
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Scott,
> > I'm a C1 guy and know very little re C3's.  I've never even had the
> > priviledge of riding in a C3.  That said, in a C1 there's a spring to
> > assist the return of the pedal to the brake light switch.  It runs from
> > little bracket attached to the the brake pedal pushrod clevis pin to a
> > hole towards the rear of the car on the the pedal assy bracket.  Any
> > chance your C3 is supposed to have something like that too?
> > Greg Mankin
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
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Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year Holley
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
thye correct vacuum diaphram will have a "330" stamped on the flat down
by the linkage hole and the distance from the center of the hole to the
bottom of  the metal  renforcment plate would be 2.00 inches

>From: Joe Lewis >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To:
crpl@redacted.email >Subject: Re: Secondary operation on mid-year
Holley >Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:59:34 -0600 > >The Corvette Restoration
and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Remember, vacuum
secondaries will open when the vacuum reaches a >specific level (depends
on the exact setup). That means that WOT at >3000 RPM and cruising at
3000 RPM will have different >characteristics. If this is not what
differentiates between the >differing opening points, you need to check
the diaphram and the >linkage for the secondary controls. I would : > >
1) Get the vacuum rod length the right length > 2) Use a heavier spring >
>The heavier spring should make it a more gradual opening, but to get >to
that point, you will need to adjust the metering rod lengths. I >know the
old holleys were "adjustable" in this fashion by bending >the rods (even
their support "experts" told people to do this). > >Joe '77 > >Ralph
Boineau wrote: > >>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>>----------------------------------------------------- >>Guys, most of
my experience with Holleys has been with the >>Double-Pumper mechanical
secondary carbs. I have a 2818 on my '64 >>365 Coupe and despite
switching carbs (including using one redone >>by Jerry Luck) I can not
get what I consider to be uniform >>secondary operation. My understanding
of proper vacuum secondary >>operation is that they should open gradually
so that you do not >>feel a sudden, all-at-once increase in power. But
that is how the >>power comes on for my engine,with a sudden jerk. Plus
the >>secondary opening does not always happen at the same RPM level at
>>full throttle--sometimes it happens around 4000 rpms, sometimes >>much
later(too late). Naturally I have experimented with the >>various springs
offered by Holley but only the weakest springs let >>the secondaries
function at all. Any input would be appreciated. >>Thanks, Ralph Boineau.
>> >>_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------------------------------------------------

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ron,

I don't know if anyone else has responded to your e-mail, if so sorry.

I just changed mine this weekend to a Wells TU-5 and it was off by less than
10 degrees.  I am very satisfied with it!

Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Ron Goldstein
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 4:49 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: TEMP GAUGE


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi All,

      I see there's been some talk about temperature gauges recently as the
weather gets warmer. I'm sure my 67 435HP temp gauge is wrong also. I have
8 sending units, some new Delcos and new Standards, and a couple of old
ones (don't know if any are originals). I matched them up to a meat
thermometer in the radiator many years ago, but the closest one was about
10-15 degrees off. The gauge read higher than the thermometer, but you have
to remember, the thermometer was in the radiator filler neck on the
radiator cap side of the radiator. This location is on the cooler end of
the radiator, after the coolant was cooled.  Does anyone know how close is
the Wells TU-5 to being accurate, and where can I get one of these IR heat
guns, and how much can I expect to pay for it ???


                                         Thanks,


                                         RON

  ***********************************************************
                     RON GOLDSTEIN--KA2IIA
                      PUTNAM VALLEY, N.Y.
                             ******
           STAY YOUNG---DRIVE A VINTAGE 427 CORVETTE.
    KEEP YOUR MIND ACTIVE--BECOME AN AMATEUR RADIO OPERATOR.
       REMEMBER, THERE ARE NO STRANGERS IN AMATEUR RADIO,
              JUST FRIENDS WE HAVE NOT YET MET.
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ken,

There is an adjustment on the rod going to the master cylinder.  That
seems ok.  A clevis screws on to the rod going to the brake pedal.  The
threads are only about a 1/4 inch or so.  I don't think that will make
much difference.  I don't know about the rod where it goes inside the
booster.  I removed the filters to look inside.  It doesn't look like
there is an adjustment.




Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Original Message

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi All,

      I see there's been some talk about temperature gauges recently as the
weather gets warmer. I'm sure my 67 435HP temp gauge is wrong also. I have
8 sending units, some new Delcos and new Standards, and a couple of old
ones (don't know if any are originals). I matched them up to a meat
thermometer in the radiator many years ago, but the closest one was about
10-15 degrees off. The gauge read higher than the thermometer, but you have
to remember, the thermometer was in the radiator filler neck on the
radiator cap side of the radiator. This location is on the cooler end of
the radiator, after the coolant was cooled.  Does anyone know how close is
the Wells TU-5 to being accurate, and where can I get one of these IR heat
guns, and how much can I expect to pay for it ???


                                         Thanks,


                                         RON


73 Ron !
	I got my IR Temp Guage at my FLAPS - I did note that the one with the laser
pointer - while more expensive,
had a smaller "WIndow" and so could measure accurately while being held
further away from the heat source - a good thing
around fan belts etc.



Greg Greene ISP VE6CSQ
Programmer Analyst ITS
75 Coupe
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In a message dated 6/16/2003 3:13:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Greg.Greene@redacted.email writes:


> Does anyone know how close is
> the Wells TU-5 to being accurate, and where can I get one of these IR heat
> guns, and how much can I expect to pay for it ???
> 

Ron -

       The Wells TU-5 appears to be much closer to correct than any other 
replacement, although several vendors (Lectric Limited, etc.) are now advertising 
senders they say are properly calibrated. The Raytek MT-4 MiniTemp I.R. gun 
is available here for $75.00:

       http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/raytek/

       My local NAPA has them on the counter now in blister-packs for $85.00, 
and Sears has one now (looks different, probably a Raytek inside) for about 
$60.00.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Does anybody on the list know where Stant adapters and accessories can be
purchased for a reasonable price?

David Wilhoit
White 59 in TN
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In a message dated 6/16/2003 6:12:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
WilhoitDavid@redacted.email writes:


> Does anybody on the list know where Stant adapters and accessories can be
> purchased for a reasonable price?
> 

David -

       Try Robert Fisher, mobiletools@redacted.email, website www.mobiletools1.com, 
(888) 459-0333. You name it, he's got it (or can get it).

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I've seen complete sets on e-Bay from time to time.

Most went at very reasonable price.


Also try http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net
        I bought Stant conversion kits (ST-225 to ST-270) from them at a very reasonable price around $24
        


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wilhoit David" <WilhoitDavid@redacted.email>

Does anybody on the list know where Stant adapters and accessories can be
purchased for a reasonable price?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Geoffrey,

Thank you for checking your warehouse stock and your database.

Yes, I would appreciate it if you would send a lower radiator spring (for
hose 3887155) to me at the following address:

Ed Smalley
31419 Helen Lane
Tomball, TX  77375

Cheers,
Ed


|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
|         |           Docrebuild@redacted.email                               |
|         |           Sent by:                                         |
|         |           crpl-bounces+ed.smalley=gastechnology.org@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                                      |
|         |                                                            |
|         |                                                            |
|         |           06/13/2003 11:02 PM                              |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                           |
|         |                                                            |
|---------+------------------------------------------------------------>
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  hose and spring                                                              |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Ed,

Too bad I was not informed of your plight directly. If you wish, I can send

you a spring to use.

I did not know you had moved, and only looked under the old address which
apparently is also still in our data base. I stopped at that zip code, not
realizing you were also listed under a numerically higher zip code.

I had my wife check the hoses in stock at the warehouse. That is one of two

hoses that comes WITHOUT a spring. The other is the 68-72 SB aluminum
radiator
lower hose numbered 3917699. Both hoses are actually manufactured by
Goodyear,
not me. We buy it from another well known supplier and those two do not
come
with springs. Go figure.

Geoffrey Coenen
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Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 00:00:30 -0500
From: steve meltzer <scheherazade@redacted.email>
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Subject: C3 Vacuum update + vendor info..
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
As some of you know, I've been working with #^%%$%^ vacuum system on my
LT-1, off and on now for awhile. The primary symptom was that the wiper
door would open every time I started the car. (It still does, but is
barely perceptible...and I'm tired of looking for what is almost
certainly a very small leak.) In the process of working on this, I
replaced a number of parts and assumed that the new ones worked fine. In
some cases, the parts were tested before installation. All of the parts
came from Corvette Central....more on that later. Both vacuum relays
look close to original, but without any hint of where they were made or
by whom...and both failed almost immediately. (Too bad I didn't know
this, but spending a bunch of time cussing and wringing my hands
ultimately led me in the right direction.) Then there was the matter of
the defective "over ride" switch they sent me, and graciously
replaced...with another leaky one. Check your new parts carefully, and
don't assume that they are faultless! CC did quickly refund my money and
the shipping, without any hassles, but I'd probably get my relays from
GMpartsdirect or some such. Ya' know what they say "Coitus Interruptus"
oops, I mean " Caveat Emptor"! steve meltzer
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi,
I've got a problem with the cruise control on my '80 vette.  When I put on
the cruise, the speed increases and never stop.
When I push on the same button, the speed decreases and when I release the
button, the speed increases again till maximum speed !!!
The support on the footbrake pedal cancels the cruise.
In summary, I do not manage to define a speed. The set point is not
respected.
Can somebody tell me what I must do, check or change ? Any ideas ?

Francois.

_________________________________________________________________
Trouvez l'âme soeur sur MSN Rencontres ! http://g.msn.fr/FR1000/9551
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 17 05:36:49 2003
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Subject: NEW PART PROBLEM
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thought I would update you guy's on two problems out there right now.

1) Corvette America Red dye p/n 431935.  The current production run of this
color is flat and not semi-gloss.  The color is used for all cars from 59-64.
This problem is in both the Aerosol and the Quarts.  They have informed us
that they are working to correct this problem.

2) Front suspension kit again from Corvette America.  Part fits from 53-62.
This kit is imported (first bad thing), and secondly the upper inner a/arm
shafts are not tapered.  Both ends are the large o.d. which makes them
impossible to install in the car.   Our customer bought this kit and wanted us
to install it.  The upper inner shaft will pass thru the back of the housing
but not the front.  After checking the shaft we found that both ends of the
shaft were the same size.

We talked with them about this and they told us that there were 440 parts in
the field since they began selling this item and no returns. (Are people just
not installing them?)   They also told me that all the shaft's were made
exactly the same as the set we had.   If you have one of these kits,  check
them before you attempt to install.



E
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Subject: Thanks & Lower Ignition Shield Support Question
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Many thanks to all on this list for responses to my vendor/door panel
question. Now I have a question about the supports for the lower ignition
shielding I recently purchased . . .

Upper and side covers & supports installed without a hitch and look
great! I'm having some difficulty with the lower shields and supports.
The supports, small 'L' shaped brackets that attach to the shields with
wing nuts do not appear to line up properly with the exhaust manifold
holes, but that may be because I don't fully understand which supports
should be used in different locations.

Some of the supports are shaped so as to be offset (crooked 'L' shape),
while others are shaped in a normal 90 degree shape. I've studied the
diagrams in the Assembly Instructions Manual, but cannot see where any of
the supports have this offset feature.

Any suggestions/help with this is greatly appreciated.

Tom Workman
1967 327/300
AFAB Software
"We live just to learn. Are we finally learning to live?"

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 17 05:56:24 2003
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Subject: RE: Thanks & Lower Ignition Shield Support Question
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
On my '74, there is an L shaped bracket that is secured under an exhaust
manifold bolt and then the wing nut attaches the shield to this bracket.  I
believe there is enough play or movement when the bolt is loose to get the
shield to align properly.  Try this - it is the only thing I can think of.
Also - my AIM doesn't have a good enough picture to show which L shaped
bracket goes with which shield - good luck.

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Tom C Workman
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 5:42 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Thanks & Lower Ignition Shield Support Question


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Many thanks to all on this list for responses to my vendor/door panel
question. Now I have a question about the supports for the lower ignition
shielding I recently purchased . . .

Upper and side covers & supports installed without a hitch and look
great! I'm having some difficulty with the lower shields and supports.
The supports, small 'L' shaped brackets that attach to the shields with
wing nuts do not appear to line up properly with the exhaust manifold
holes, but that may be because I don't fully understand which supports
should be used in different locations.

Some of the supports are shaped so as to be offset (crooked 'L' shape),
while others are shaped in a normal 90 degree shape. I've studied the
diagrams in the Assembly Instructions Manual, but cannot see where any of
the supports have this offset feature.

Any suggestions/help with this is greatly appreciated.

Tom Workman
1967 327/300
AFAB Software
"We live just to learn. Are we finally learning to live?"

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 17 06:08:00 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
OK, I'm stupid.  I want to apologize to the group for losing my head on
my brake switch/pedal problem.

I crawled (literally) under the dash last night to look at the
situation.  I grabbed the brake switch bracket with some vice grips to
see if I could bend it.  The bracket moved!

Apparently, over the year or so that I had the booster out of the car,
the pressure of the spring on the pedal was pushing the switch bracket
to the rear.  It was not easy for me to move it by hand so I guess that
spring can exert a lot of pressure over time.

Thanks to all those that offered words of wisdom and support.



Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
-----------------------------------------------------
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Thread-Topic: Trouble with cruise control
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From: "Greene, Greg" <Greg.Greene@redacted.email>
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Subject: Trouble with cruise control
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Message: 9

Hi,
I've got a problem with the cruise control on my '80 vette.  When I put on
the cruise, the speed increases and never stop.
When I push on the same button, the speed decreases and when I release the
button, the speed increases again till maximum speed !!!
The support on the footbrake pedal cancels the cruise.
In summary, I do not manage to define a speed. The set point is not
respected.
Can somebody tell me what I must do, check or change ? Any ideas ?

Francois.

BonJour !
	I don't have the speed control on my 75 but as far as I know they are a
closed loop system, there is a sensor that measures the speed of the vehicle
and sends a signal to the servo that controls the throttle.  The servo
attempts to move to match the signal that is sent to it.  So I'd suspect
either the sensor is not sending a correct signal - or the servo is not
matching the signal because the Pot it uses to determine if it has moved
enough in the proper direction is worn.  My first suspect would be the servo
as it is most affected by vibration etc.
HTH

Greg Greene ISP VE6CSQ
Programmer Analyst ITS



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E
Many thanks for the heads-up. You are providing a invaluable service to CRPL 
readers. Regards, JIm
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--- Scott Sparkman <scott@redacted.email> wrote:
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> OK, I'm stupid.  

Glad to hear the cure was something simple.  No need to denigrate
yourself.  Bouts of stupidity happen to me all the time.  Bet there's
not a person on the list who could say otherwise.

Greg Mankin
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In a message dated 6/17/2003 8:49:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
afabsw@redacted.email writes:


> Some of the supports are shaped so as to be offset (crooked 'L' shape),
> while others are shaped in a normal 90 degree shape. I've studied the
> diagrams in the Assembly Instructions Manual, but cannot see where any of
> the supports have this offset feature.
> 
> Any suggestions/help with this is greatly appreciated.

Tom -

       The "straight" L-shaped supports (3819758 in the A.I.M.) go on the 
inboard bolt of the paired end bolts on both sides; there are four of these. The 
other four L-shaped supports (two different "angled" shapes, symmetrically 
opposite, two angled one way, two angled the other way) go on the center pair of 
bolts on each side - the ones on the forward center bolts angle forward, and 
the ones on the rearward center bolts angle rearward. The A.I.M. illustration 
is pretty generic - doesn't show that some are angled and some are straight.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Cubic Inch total
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Gentlemen,

I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?

Roger "size matters" Coen
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Stock stroke?
--- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Gentlemen,
> 
> I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?
> 
> Roger "size matters" Coen
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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Yep.
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Mankin
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Cubic Inch total


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Stock stroke?
--- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?
>
> Roger "size matters" Coen
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
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In a message dated 6/17/2003 10:37:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
coen730@redacted.email writes:


> I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?

Roger -

       It's now a "439"

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 17 08:06:14 2003
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From: Greg Mankin <gregmankin@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'll fill in the math part...

(((pi)x(R squared))x stroke)x # of cylinders

4.250 (stock bore) + 0.060 = 4.31 = new dia.
R= (4.31 / 2) 2.155
3.1416 x 4.644 (R squared)= area of the bore=14.59
14.59 x 3.76 (stock stroke)= displaced area of the cylinder=54.86
54.86 x 8 = total displacement = 439 cu in.

Greg Mankin



--- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Yep.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greg Mankin
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:41 AM
> Subject: Re: Cubic Inch total
> 
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Stock stroke?
> --- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?
> >
> > Roger "size matters" Coen
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> 
> 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Math was never my strong subject.

Thanks guys

----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Mankin
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: Cubic Inch total


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'll fill in the math part...

(((pi)x(R squared))x stroke)x # of cylinders

4.250 (stock bore) + 0.060 = 4.31 = new dia.
R= (4.31 / 2) 2.155
3.1416 x 4.644 (R squared)= area of the bore=14.59
14.59 x 3.76 (stock stroke)= displaced area of the cylinder=54.86
54.86 x 8 = total displacement = 439 cu in.

Greg Mankin



--- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Yep.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greg Mankin
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:41 AM
> Subject: Re: Cubic Inch total
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Stock stroke?
> --- Roger <coen730@redacted.email> wrote:
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?
> >
> > Roger "size matters" Coen
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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>
>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks to everyone on the list for quick responses to my question. A BIG
THANKS to John Hinckley for explaining in detail what the AIM doesn't
show.

On Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:10:09 EDT Snake488@redacted.email writes:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/17/2003 8:49:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> afabsw@redacted.email writes:
> 
> 
> > Some of the supports are shaped so as to be offset (crooked 'L' 
> shape),
> > while others are shaped in a normal 90 degree shape. I've studied 
> the
> > diagrams in the Assembly Instructions Manual, but cannot see where 
> any of
> > the supports have this offset feature.
> > 
> > Any suggestions/help with this is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Tom -
> 
>        The "straight" L-shaped supports (3819758 in the A.I.M.) go 
> on the 
> inboard bolt of the paired end bolts on both sides; there are four 
> of these. The 
> other four L-shaped supports (two different "angled" shapes, 
> symmetrically 
> opposite, two angled one way, two angled the other way) go on the 
> center pair of 
> bolts on each side - the ones on the forward center bolts angle 
> forward, and 
> the ones on the rearward center bolts angle rearward. The A.I.M. 
> illustration 
> is pretty generic - doesn't show that some are angled and some are 
> straight.
> 
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> 


Tom Workman
AFAB Software
"We live just to learn. Are we finally learning to live?"

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Roger-

The formula is:  (pi*r squared)* stroke * 8.  r = the radius of the stock
bore +.060.  I usually use pi = 3.14.

I just noticed you said .60 - do you mean .060 (60 thousandths)?  .6 = 6
tenths - I don't think there is enough in the cylinder walls to bore to .6.

So - with a std. bore of 4.251+.060, we get r=2.1555, stroke = 3.76 the
formula looks like:

3.14 * 4.776 * 3.76 * 8 = 438 cu. in.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Roger
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:37 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Cubic Inch total


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Gentlemen,

I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?

Roger "size matters" Coen
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Subject: Re: Cubic Inch total
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Sorry, I did mean .060.

In certain things 1" can make a HUGE difference.

Roger

----- Original Message -----
From: sbrown3
To: crpl@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: Cubic Inch total


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Roger-

The formula is:  (pi*r squared)* stroke * 8.  r = the radius of the stock
bore +.060.  I usually use pi = 3.14.

I just noticed you said .60 - do you mean .060 (60 thousandths)?  .6 = 6
tenths - I don't think there is enough in the cylinder walls to bore to .6.

So - with a std. bore of 4.251+.060, we get r=2.1555, stroke = 3.76 the
formula looks like:

3.14 * 4.776 * 3.76 * 8 = 438 cu. in.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Roger
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:37 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Cubic Inch total


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Gentlemen,

I have a 427 which is bored .60 over.  How BIG is it?

Roger "size matters" Coen
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
bore diameter X  bore diameter  X .7854  X  stroke length  X  number of
cylinders =  cu in.

>From: "Roger" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: >Subject: Cubic
Inch total >Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:36:57 -0700 > >The Corvette
Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Gentlemen, > >I
have a 427 which is bored .60 over. How BIG is it? > >Roger "size
matters" Coen >----------------------------------------------------- >For
subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl >Send other
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If you don`t know this, it may be valuable for the assembly of the 60 over 
427. A stock head gasket will not cover the bore correctly and the fire ring of 
the gasket will hang over into the bore and may blow out.
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Walt,

	That is an interesting point.  I have this "friend" who recently redid
the upper half of his .030 over 327 and used a set of Felpro head
gaskets, did I, er, I mean my "friend", mess up?

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe 

WaltPuffer@redacted.email wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> If you don`t know this, it may be valuable for the assembly of the 60 over
> 427. A stock head gasket will not cover the bore correctly and the fire ring of
> the gasket will hang over into the bore and may blow out.
> -----------------------------------------------------
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From: "Tom Russo" <hunt4cleanair@redacted.email>
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Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 17:11:39 -0400
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Subject: RE: C3 Vacuum update + vendor info..
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hey Steve:

John Woods (the late) passed on some insightful tips when helping me with my
system...bench test those relays and actuators before installing. I used a
vacuum pressure gauge and an afternoon to compare old and new finally
concluding the new did what it was suppose to do and when.

Regards,

Tom Russo
00 MY/BLK/RED
78 SA Bowtie


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email]On
Behalf Of steve meltzer
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 1:01 AM
To: Corvette Resto Gruppo
Subject: C3 Vacuum update + vendor info..


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
As some of you know, I've been working with #^%%$%^ vacuum system on my
LT-1, off and on now for awhile. The primary symptom was that the wiper
door would open every time I started the car. (It still does, but is
barely perceptible...and I'm tired of looking for what is almost
certainly a very small leak.) In the process of working on this, I
replaced a number of parts and assumed that the new ones worked fine. In
some cases, the parts were tested before installation. All of the parts
came from Corvette Central....more on that later. Both vacuum relays
look close to original, but without any hint of where they were made or
by whom...and both failed almost immediately. (Too bad I didn't know
this, but spending a bunch of time cussing and wringing my hands
ultimately led me in the right direction.) Then there was the matter of
the defective "over ride" switch they sent me, and graciously
replaced...with another leaky one. Check your new parts carefully, and
don't assume that they are faultless! CC did quickly refund my money and
the shipping, without any hassles, but I'd probably get my relays from
GMpartsdirect or some such. Ya' know what they say "Coitus Interruptus"
oops, I mean " Caveat Emptor"! steve meltzer
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/16/2003 10:01:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
john_hoshstrasser@redacted.email writes:


> Is this a numbers matching car or has the original engine been replaced by
> an over the counter L-89?
> 

John -

       Car is allegedly one of the 16 built based on the partial tank 
sticker, but the block is a correctly-dated/restamped replacement; "numbers-matching" 
doesn't mean "original" - it means "correct".

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 10:39:30 2003
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From: "Hoshstrasser, John" <john_hoshstrasser@redacted.email>
To: "'crpl@redacted.email'" <crpl@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Oh, no...not this argument again!   So it's a non-original but "numbers
matching" car.     :-D



What's the value of a non-original restamped '67 L-89?  I figured an
original '67 L-89 might be ~$200k?  Do any of the remaining L-89s still have
the documented original engine?  It's a good thing he has the tank sticker
otherwise it would just be another NOM '67.


John H
'77 coupe
Orlando, FL




-----Original Message-----
From: Snake488@redacted.email [mailto:Snake488@redacted.email]
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:09 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: '67 L89 on eBay


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/16/2003 10:01:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
john_hoshstrasser@redacted.email writes:


> Is this a numbers matching car or has the original engine been replaced by
> an over the counter L-89?
> 

John -

       Car is allegedly one of the 16 built based on the partial tank 
sticker, but the block is a correctly-dated/restamped replacement;
"numbers-matching" 
doesn't mean "original" - it means "correct".

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 15:13:40 2003
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
To: "'Corvette Restoration'" <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:12:50 -0500
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Subject: HELP!  C3 won't start
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
OK, I got my brake "problem" behind me and now I eagerly put the key in
the ignition and turned it.  Nothing happens. Nada!!

 

I have power to my starter, the coil, and the horn relay (which feeds
electricity to just about everything).

 

I can activate the starter with a remote starter button hooked to the
solenoid but I'm not getting any fire from the distributor.

 

I have a couple of electrical questions that might help me track this
down.

 

1.	Is there a fusible link in dash wiring harness for the starter
wiring?  (I replaced the all the engine compartment wiring harnesses
with new ones)

 

2.	If I am getting 6 volts to the coil with the key on (12 volts to
the horn relay and starter), shouldn't the distributor fire from that
source?

 

 

I would say that I am pulling my hair out, but I don't have that much to
work with.

Thanks for any and all help.

 

 

 

 

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 15:23:49 2003
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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:23:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rick Curry <curryfile@redacted.email>
To: scott@redacted.email, crpl@redacted.email,
	'Corvette Restoration' <crpl@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm guessing it's a bad ground problem.
Check all ground wires - even neg. battery terminal
connection.

Good Luck,

Rickc

--- Scott Sparkman <scott@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> OK, I got my brake "problem" behind me and now I
> eagerly put the key in
> the ignition and turned it.  Nothing happens. Nada!!
> 
>  
> 
> I have power to my starter, the coil, and the horn
> relay (which feeds
> electricity to just about everything).
> 
>  
> 
> I can activate the starter with a remote starter
> button hooked to the
> solenoid but I'm not getting any fire from the
> distributor.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a couple of electrical questions that might
> help me track this
> down.
> 
>  
> 
> 1.	Is there a fusible link in dash wiring harness
> for the starter
> wiring?  (I replaced the all the engine compartment
> wiring harnesses
> with new ones)
> 
>  
> 
> 2.	If I am getting 6 volts to the coil with the key
> on (12 volts to
> the horn relay and starter), shouldn't the
> distributor fire from that
> source?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> I would say that I am pulling my hair out, but I
> don't have that much to
> work with.
> 
> Thanks for any and all help.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Scott Sparkman
> 
> '72 LS5 convertible
> 
>  
> 
> follow my restoration at www.thespark.us
> <http://www.thespark.us/> 
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
>
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


__________________________________
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-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 15:24:32 2003
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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:23:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rick Curry <curryfile@redacted.email>
To: scott@redacted.email, crpl@redacted.email,
	'Corvette Restoration' <crpl@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm guessing it's a bad ground problem.
Check all ground wires - even neg. battery terminal
connection.

Good Luck,

Rickc

--- Scott Sparkman <scott@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> OK, I got my brake "problem" behind me and now I
> eagerly put the key in
> the ignition and turned it.  Nothing happens. Nada!!
> 
>  
> 
> I have power to my starter, the coil, and the horn
> relay (which feeds
> electricity to just about everything).
> 
>  
> 
> I can activate the starter with a remote starter
> button hooked to the
> solenoid but I'm not getting any fire from the
> distributor.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a couple of electrical questions that might
> help me track this
> down.
> 
>  
> 
> 1.	Is there a fusible link in dash wiring harness
> for the starter
> wiring?  (I replaced the all the engine compartment
> wiring harnesses
> with new ones)
> 
>  
> 
> 2.	If I am getting 6 volts to the coil with the key
> on (12 volts to
> the horn relay and starter), shouldn't the
> distributor fire from that
> source?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> I would say that I am pulling my hair out, but I
> don't have that much to
> work with.
> 
> Thanks for any and all help.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Scott Sparkman
> 
> '72 LS5 convertible
> 
>  
> 
> follow my restoration at www.thespark.us
> <http://www.thespark.us/> 
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
>
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


__________________________________
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-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 15:31:57 2003
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:31:08 -0500
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Subject: RE: HELP!  C3 won't start
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the quick reply Rick.

 

Let me add something.  This started before I began my restoration.  I
figured it was my crappy wiring harness under the hood.  That's the main
reason I started my restoration.  There were so many splices and twisted
wires that I was surprised the damn thing ran.

 

When it first happened I was trying to start my car.  It turned over a
few times then when I tried again - Nothing.  Just like I have now.
That's why I'm wondering if there is something under the dash.

 

I had the starter tested and it was ok.

 

 

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
Rick Curry
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 5:23 PM
To: scott@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email; 'Corvette Restoration'
Subject: Re: HELP! C3 won't start

 

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)

-----------------------------------------------------

I'm guessing it's a bad ground problem.

Check all ground wires - even neg. battery terminal

connection.

 

Good Luck,

 

Rickc

 

--- Scott Sparkman <scott@redacted.email> wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List

> (CRPL)

>

-----------------------------------------------------

> OK, I got my brake "problem" behind me and now I

> eagerly put the key in

> the ignition and turned it.  Nothing happens. Nada!!

> 

>  

> 

> I have power to my starter, the coil, and the horn

> relay (which feeds

> electricity to just about everything).

> 

>  

> 

> I can activate the starter with a remote starter

> button hooked to the

> solenoid but I'm not getting any fire from the

> distributor.

> 

>  

> 

> I have a couple of electrical questions that might

> help me track this

> down.

> 

>  

> 

> 1.  Is there a fusible link in dash wiring harness

> for the starter

> wiring?  (I replaced the all the engine compartment

> wiring harnesses

> with new ones)

> 

>  

> 

> 2.  If I am getting 6 volts to the coil with the key

> on (12 volts to

> the horn relay and starter), shouldn't the

> distributor fire from that

> source?

> 

>  

> 

>  

> 

> I would say that I am pulling my hair out, but I

> don't have that much to

> work with.

> 

> Thanks for any and all help.

> 

>  

> 

>  

> 

>  

> 

>  

> 

>  

> 

> Scott Sparkman

> 

> '72 LS5 convertible

> 

>  

> 

> follow my restoration at www.thespark.us

> <http://www.thespark.us/> 

>

-----------------------------------------------------

> For subscriber information, see

>

http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl

> Send other comments or questions about this list to

> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email

> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

 

 

__________________________________

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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 15:35:12 2003
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Subject: mid  year side pipes
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have a 1965 with side pipes and today while out for a drive I heard a
noise and stopped and found that the right side pipe cover insulator ( black
fiberglass liner) had come loose from the side pipe cover at the front end.
I took off the the complete cover and now I am trying to figure out how to
adhere the liner back on to the cover. Can someone help with some advice as
to what type of adhesive I should use.   thanks  to all...

dale orris
65 327/350
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Wed Jun 18 19:24:36 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Road testing a recently restored 65 base 250HP Corvette. I had two problems
and I believe both are WCFB carburetor related. Problem one: Car ran fine
for about 20 miles, stopped at a couple stop lights with no problems. When
we went to make a left turn off a main high way after waiting a few minutes
for on coming traffic the engine stalled. After a hard restart, I had no
problems for the 20+ miles returning home. Second problem: This was the
first time that the secondaries have been activated and there was hesitation
or a slight decline in power. At normal driving speeds car operated fine.

Thanks for any help!

Ray
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 19 00:01:50 2003
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Subject: Trailing Arm Instalation
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I finally received my rebuilt trailing arms. Pretty much everything was
replaced, including the arms themselves (mine were bent 3/4"). Obviously the
shims I removed with the old arms won't be right and I will need an alignment.
Is the some sort of preliminary way of shimming them before I get it to an
alignment shop? Are there any tips when installing the arms? Thanks in
advance.

Steve Hlady
shlady @redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 19 04:21:57 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In my pursuit of a correct posi for my 1960 Corvette SN 00867S101988
(born on 12/28/59 ?), I have found the following 3-rd member housing
from Werner Grossmueller:

Casting #: 			3743833 	(thin-P)
Casting date code:	I-30-9 	(9/30/59 ?)
Build code:			AX1222	(Dec 22)

I haven’t seen the posi, but I confirmed with Werner that the build
code was an AX and not AS. (hoping that I misinterpreted X instead
of S on the phone)  My NCRS Tech. Info Manual & Judging Guide lists
many rear axle ratio codes on page 85, ranging from AE-AU, but no AX.
Would this be a correct posi for my car, or did it come out of a
passenger car?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
-Lou   NCRS 37160, SACC 2192
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ray,
The second (easiest) problem first, the hesitation/ slight decline in power, 
is an indication of a lean mixture at that point of mixture demand. Set the 
accelertaion pump linkage on the longest stroke setting. If that doesn't help 
you are probably going to have to look at slightly larger secondary jets. AFB 
jets will fit, start with .003 larger. Don't know where to suggest finding these.

Stalling is harder to trace. Possibly the left turn had something to do with 
it but not likely with a newly rebuilt carb. Old WCFB's sometimes burn out a 
specific gasket passage resulting in allow gas to being sucked into passages 
and flood the engine upon left turn. I'd check the float drop levels, might 
experiment setting them 1/16" lower than spec. Hard restart coud ALSO be ignition 
related. Check that timing is spot on and the dwell is correct. Since carb 
problems are often more transparent than ignition, I suggest knowing your that 
distributor is operating correctly is easiest place to start. Regards, Jim Frakes
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Last night, I had a heavy water leak from the water pump area.  I say "area"
because I have been plagued with water leaks at the junction of the water
pump and the engine mount/head - primarily on the driver's side - which I
thought I had finally fixed about 1.5 years ago by using extra washers on
the bolts (the bolt was bottoming out.  This time, it appears to be leaking
on the passenger's side, and it was too messy with water (and hot) for me to
determine where it was coming from.  The pump is a rebuilt correct pump I
bought about 3 years ago, and the shaft isn't wobbling.  Is there an easy
way to tell if this fairly "new" pump has failed?  Should I have it rebuilt
while I have it off just in case?  Would a local machine shop likely be able
to do this, as I'd like to get it back on the road ASAP (time is miles not
driven...)?  One option, I suppose, is to put an aftermarket one on now and
send the correct one off somewhere to be rebuilt, but I'd rather do the job
just once (more).  Thanks!  -John  '62
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: '62 water pump
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,
You can rebuild the pump your self with a kit from Paragon or one of the
other corvette suppliers. All you will need is access to a press. Whatever
you do, DO NOT press the shaft out using the water inlet/outlet legs for
support! You stand a better than even chance of breaking one of the legs off
the pump. Support the pump in the center of the casting.  This pump is a
fairly common casting and you may be able to find one at your FLAPS. I have
searched through the pumps at my local O'reilley and found more than one
original GM C1 casting. I also understand that Arthur Gould will turn you
pump around in a very short time frame. I do not have his contact info but
he is in the Hemmings all the time.
                       Regards, John McGraw
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Turner" <jturner100@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 6:53 AM
Subject: '62 water pump


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Last night, I had a heavy water leak from the water pump area.  I say
"area"
> because I have been plagued with water leaks at the junction of the water
> pump and the engine mount/head - primarily on the driver's side - which I
> thought I had finally fixed about 1.5 years ago by using extra washers on
> the bolts (the bolt was bottoming out.  This time, it appears to be
leaking
> on the passenger's side, and it was too messy with water (and hot) for me
to
> determine where it was coming from.  The pump is a rebuilt correct pump I
> bought about 3 years ago, and the shaft isn't wobbling.  Is there an easy
> way to tell if this fairly "new" pump has failed?  Should I have it
rebuilt
> while I have it off just in case?  Would a local machine shop likely be
able
> to do this, as I'd like to get it back on the road ASAP (time is miles not
> driven...)?  One option, I suppose, is to put an aftermarket one on now
and
> send the correct one off somewhere to be rebuilt, but I'd rather do the
job
> just once (more).  Thanks!  -John  '62
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: RE: '62 water pump
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If the shaft has no wobble, then the bearings are good.  If there is rust
from the weep hole, then the seals are bad.  However, in this case, it seems
the pump housing may be "warped" - although warped is not correct for a
water pump housing.  But there could be something not aligning right with
the housing.  Also, check the bolt length.  You may have the wrong bolts or
the housing may be wrong for your engine.  There are several versions of the
SBC water pump even tho the casting numbers are correct.

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
John Turner
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:53 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: '62 water pump


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Last night, I had a heavy water leak from the water pump area.  I say "area"
because I have been plagued with water leaks at the junction of the water
pump and the engine mount/head - primarily on the driver's side - which I
thought I had finally fixed about 1.5 years ago by using extra washers on
the bolts (the bolt was bottoming out.  This time, it appears to be leaking
on the passenger's side, and it was too messy with water (and hot) for me to
determine where it was coming from.  The pump is a rebuilt correct pump I
bought about 3 years ago, and the shaft isn't wobbling.  Is there an easy
way to tell if this fairly "new" pump has failed?  Should I have it rebuilt
while I have it off just in case?  Would a local machine shop likely be able
to do this, as I'd like to get it back on the road ASAP (time is miles not
driven...)?  One option, I suppose, is to put an aftermarket one on now and
send the correct one off somewhere to be rebuilt, but I'd rather do the job
just once (more).  Thanks!  -John  '62
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,
It is not a good idea to take up the space with extra washers. Extra washers 
= movement.  Get the correct length bolts in at least grade 5. These waterpump 
to block bolts should be torqued (35# I think, best you check) and retorqued 
occasionally. There is a lot of tension on these four bolts, like holding the 
engine up plus expected to seal water passages. Not the Generals best design 
solution. Notice they didn't use this approach on ten zillion Chevrolets of 
this era.  Possibly you have small cracks in the engine mount (I did) between the 
water passage and the bolt holes. Cracks would allow water under pressure to 
work out past the bolt threads. Absolutely no fan blade movement is a good 
sign. There is a small (bleed) hole on the bottom side of the pump snout if the 
internal pump seal has failed, you should see evidence of leakage out this 
hole. A machine shop should be able to rebuild a pump, actually pretty simple but 
specific dimensions must be held. I would send mine to Art Gould. Regards, JIm 
Frakes
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I had the same problem, It was fixed by using a heavy duty" marine type 
adhesive" and has held up perfectly.
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I need to install kingpins in my '59 in order to put it back on the road,
after 20 yrs in garages.  Can anyone recommend a reliable supplier and a
ballpark cost?  Thanks for any advice.

Dave
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Arthur Gould came through for me in a real crunch...with only days before a 
50th event, he turned around the pump for my 54 in 3 days...and didn't 
charge extra.

Arthur Gould
6 Delores Ln.
Ft. Salonga, NY 11768
631-754-5010

On reassembly, be sure to clean the and chase threads out.  The gasket 
sealer is important...there's a great one, called (spelling might be off) 
Gasket Cinch...yellow stuff in a small white can with a '40's blonde 
(whatever).  Important to apply it thin...real thin...let it get tacky.  You 
might also put a light coating on the bolt threads.  (you might check the 
length of your bolts...depth of the hole)

Bud Barnes
Cell/Pager: (916) 798-2360

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Kanter Auto Products has the complete kit for half the cost of the big
Corvette houses.

I seem to remember $160 for it back in '96.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 7:22:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
temppodra@redacted.email writes:


> In my pursuit of a correct posi for my 1960 Corvette SN 00867S101988
> (born on 12/28/59 ?), I have found the following 3-rd member housing
> from Werner Grossmueller:
> 
> Casting #:             3743833     (thin-P)
> Casting date code:    I-30-9     (9/30/59 ?)
> Build code:            AX1222    (Dec 22)
> 

Lou -

       Good casting number/date and build date for your car, but "AX" is a 
passenger car ratio code; the "Thin P" carriers were built at Detroit Gear & 
Axle for both Corvettes and passenger cars (Buffalo carriers had the "thick P" 
casting, for passenger cars only).

       Axle "numbers" are not judged by NCRS for Flight Judging - only for 
"Bowtie" judging; Flight Judging only considers configuration and appearance 
that can be seen from lying on the ground.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Mark,
Thanks for your reply.  Do you have an address, phone no., etc. for Kanter?  I
don't have many catalogs since I was out of the Corvette pleasure zone for so
long.
Dave
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/19/2003 8:05:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jturner100@redacted.email writes:


> This time, it appears to be leaking
> on the passenger's side, and it was too messy with water (and hot) for me to
> determine where it was coming from.  The pump is a rebuilt correct pump I
> bought about 3 years ago, and the shaft isn't wobbling.  Is there an easy
> way to tell if this fairly "new" pump has failed?  

John -

       It's unlikely that the pump has anything to do with the leak, assuming 
its mating surfaces aren't pitted. This is a chronic issue with all C1's, and 
usually relates to the condition of the engine mount bracket; if the mating 
surfaces on either side of the bracket are pitted, you'll have leaks. Period. 
Sometimes filling and metal-finishing can restore those pitted surfaces to 
smooth and dead flat, but it's usually a better idea to just replace the bracket 
if it shows pitting, use sealer and two new gaskets per side, and use temporary 
studs in the upper holes on each side to locate the "sandwich" of parts while 
assembling so they don't shift and wipe off the sealer, install the two lower 
bolts, and then swap out the studs for bolts in the upper holes. Make sure 
you use thread sealer on all four bolts, as they go into the water jacket.

       Make sure you have the correct length bolts - none of them should 
bottom out, as they go through the front wall of the block and protrude into the 
water jacket; none go into blind holes; if one "bottoms out", it's WAY too long 
for the application.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
It doesn't surprise me that the block may have been 'rest-o-fied.'  The L89 option in '67 was not a widely known option and carried an option price tag of around $5K.  Not something the average Joe kicking tires at the local Chevy dealer would be interested, esp. when the HP rating was lower than the 435HP version (I think the L89 was listed at 430HP).  But, those in the know, the racing big-wigs, were the likely buyers.  These cars were raced and raced hard!  I would bet that most if not all of the original 16 blocks have had connecting rods violently exit the scene (hopefully after beating the Cobra in the next lane).  These engines have probably been apart hundreds of times in these cars in the short time that were raced.

The key to the value of these cars is in the heads.  If the car (i.e. tank sticker) is legit, and the heads are the real McCoy, then I would say the car deserves the value.

MHO,
Mike
’66 L36

BTW, did it sell?  I’ve lost the link
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Has anyone had experience using the regulator rebuild kits sold through the
various catalogs.  Seems my right side regulator on an 80 with power windows
won't kick the top front corner up and I am hoping the rebuild kits will fix
the problem without having to replace the regulator.

Jim Blakely
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 10:37:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mkirsh@redacted.email writes:


> I would bet that most if not all of the original 16 blocks have had 
> connecting rods violently exit the scene (hopefully after beating the Cobra in the 
> next lane).  These engines have probably been apart hundreds of times in these 
> cars in the short time that were raced.
> 

Mike -

       The L89 option was about $368.00 on top of L71 (for the heads), but I 
agree - I doubt if there's even one of those 16 left with its original block. 
I think their value lies in documentation that proves conclusively that they 
were one of the original sixteen cars built, not whether the block is 
(allegedly) "original". 

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: C1- Two more questions re: 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Question #1 DISTRIBUTOR NOISE
Had a broken speedo and a noise that appeared to be coming from the tach/cable 
or drive. Pulled the cluster and had the speedo fixed and the tach "tuned up" 
including a fresh magnet.

Put everything back together with new speedo and tach cables lubed with 
synthetic grease....everything is working fine BUT there is still a noise, kind 
of a chirping or ringing noise which seems at this point to be coming from the 
distributor/tach drive area. It is definitely engine speed sensitive. The 
distributor is a dual point mechanical advance only type. One theory that has 
been advanced is that the advance weights are sticking or rattling.  ANY 
thoughts?? Suggested diagnostic procedure?? BTW I have another "correct" dual 
point distributor w/mech advance only that I COULD substitute....but I'm 
looking to certainly identify the source of the problem before I yank the 
distributor.

Question # 2 GROUNDING REAR HARNESS/GAS Sender

This one's electrical(UGH!) probably a grounding gremlin.  My gas gauge reads 
higher when the brakes are applied and fluctuates when the turn signals are 
used. I have studied the AIM, but it isn't clear where the main rear harness 
ground is. Can someone point me in the right direction?  Related to the 
grounding of the gas level sending unit...is accessing the top of the tank(std 
16 gal) as simple as they describe in the ST12.(unlatch the top, fold up the 
rear section, remove the window protector(felt like), unscrew the tank cover 
and voila...you're there). Usually there's something the don't tell you.

Thanks in advance

Hal Emrich
62-340
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Subject: Re: '62 water pump
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

Like others, I doubt your pump is the problem, but if it is and you want to
rebuild it, you are welcome to use my press. 

When I put the '56 together, I was shocked at the corrosion/erosion of the
water pump bolts, so I got the same lengths/thread, etc. in high quality
stainless bolts.  Somebody ran straight water in there for a long time. I
probably sacrificed a little strength, but I am pretty gentle with the car
. . . I think I got the bolts at a fastener supply place in South
Houston/Pasadena.

John Dillman   
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Subject: Re: C1- Two more questions re: 62
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-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 11:43:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hemrich@redacted.email writes:


> This one's electrical(UGH!) probably a grounding gremlin.  My gas gauge 
> reads 
> higher when the brakes are applied and fluctuates when the turn signals are 
> used. I have studied the AIM, but it isn't clear where the main rear harness 
> 
> ground is. Can someone point me in the right direction?  Related to the 
> grounding of the gas level sending unit...is accessing the top of the 
> tank(std 
> 16 gal) as simple as they describe in the ST12.(unlatch the top, fold up the 
> 
> rear section, remove the window protector(felt like), unscrew the tank cover 
> 
> and voila...you're there). Usually there's something the don't tell you.

Hal -

       VERY common C1 problem, as the fuel sender is grounded common with the 
rear lamp harness (at the left rear corner of the trunk). Yup, remove the 
tank cover and run a dedicated ground wire from the sending unit across to the 
right, down through the hole where the gas feed pipe goes through the underbody; 
drill a hole in the frame below that hole, put a ring terminal on the wire, 
and attach it with a self-tapping screw and a star washer. Permanent cure, no 
more flickering fuel gauge.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: RE: '62 water pump
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-----------------------------------------------------
Let's say there is a lot of crud in the bolt holes (maybe permatex and/or
silicone gasket goop from prior water pump changes...), and that's
interfering with the bolt.  What is the best way to get it out?  Last time,
I squirted carb cleaner in each hole and tried to scrape and loosen any crud
on the base with a nail, and then used compressed air, but I didn't get a
good feeling as to how I was doing...  I had considered then just using a
stud to be sure, or cutting the bolts a little.  I'll be up to my elbows in
radiator juice in the next couple of days, so I just want to get it right
and I very much appreciate everyone's help!  -John  '62

-----Original Message-----
From: John Dillman [mailto:John.Dillman@redacted.email]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:50 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: '62 water pump


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

Like others, I doubt your pump is the problem, but if it is and you want to
rebuild it, you are welcome to use my press. 

When I put the '56 together, I was shocked at the corrosion/erosion of the
water pump bolts, so I got the same lengths/thread, etc. in high quality
stainless bolts.  Somebody ran straight water in there for a long time. I
probably sacrificed a little strength, but I am pretty gentle with the car
. . . I think I got the bolts at a fastener supply place in South
Houston/Pasadena.

John Dillman   
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 11:43:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hemrich@redacted.email writes:


> Put everything back together with new speedo and tach cables lubed with 
> synthetic grease....everything is working fine BUT there is still a noise, 
> kind 
> of a chirping or ringing noise which seems at this point to be coming from 
> the 
> distributor/tach drive area. It is definitely engine speed sensitive. The 
> distributor is a dual point mechanical advance only type. One theory that 
> has 
> been advanced is that the advance weights are sticking or rattling.  ANY 
> thoughts?? Suggested diagnostic procedure?? BTW I have another "correct" 
> dual 
> point distributor w/mech advance only that I COULD substitute....but I'm 
> looking to certainly identify the source of the problem before I yank the 
> distributor.
> 

Hal -

       I'd pull the distributor and check for up/down play in the shaft 
(should be shimmed at the drive gear for .002"-.007" play), check the shaft for 
lateral slop/play in the upper bushing, pull the coupler and tach drive gear and 
check for end-play/wear and proper lubrication. Re-assemble, put it in your 
vise and spin it with a drill and see if you still hear the noise. If you still 
hear it, it's time to pull the breaker plate and inspect the centrifugal 
advance mechanism below it.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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From: Greg Mankin <gregmankin@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Allow me to recommend a slightly newer product to use in place of
'Gasgacinch'.  Try 'Hylomar' for sealing mating surfaces and bolt
threads.  As I understand it, this product was originally developed for
use by Rolls Royce.  I have used it for years and am sold on the stuff.
 I started using it when I was building hot rod rotary engines for my
Mazda race cars.  (Next time you're in the pits watching the
professional racers service their race cars, take a peek at what they
use.)  Hylomar used to be VERY hard to obtain as it was only made in
England, but no longer.  Your FLAPS probably has it hanging on the
rack.  Just be sure to follow the directions for use.

Greg Mankin

> On reassembly, be sure to clean the and chase threads out.  The
> gasket 
> sealer is important...there's a great one, called (spelling might be
> off) 
> Gasket Cinch...yellow stuff in a small white can with a '40's blonde 
> (whatever).  Important to apply it thin...real thin...let it get
> tacky.  You 
> might also put a light coating on the bolt threads.  (you might check
> the 
> length of your bolts...depth of the hole)


__________________________________
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From: Greg Mankin <gregmankin@redacted.email>
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Subject: RE: '62 water pump
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,
Use a 'thread chaser' or a 'bottoming tap' to clean out the crud in the
threads.  Smear some grease on either of them before using and most of
the crud will come out with it when you unscrew it.  GO SLOW.  BE SURE
the chaser/tap is starting in the thread correctly.  You DON'T want to
strip out the water pump holes in the block.

Greg Mankin
--- "Turner, John A. MD" <JATurner@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Let's say there is a lot of crud in the bolt holes (maybe permatex
> and/or
> silicone gasket goop from prior water pump changes...), and that's
> interfering with the bolt.  What is the best way to get it out?  Last
> time,
> I squirted carb cleaner in each hole and tried to scrape and loosen
> any crud
> on the base with a nail, and then used compressed air, but I didn't
> get a
> good feeling as to how I was doing...  I had considered then just
> using a
> stud to be sure, or cutting the bolts a little.  I'll be up to my
> elbows in
> radiator juice in the next couple of days, so I just want to get it
> right
> and I very much appreciate everyone's help!  -John  '62
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dillman [mailto:John.Dillman@redacted.email]
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:50 AM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Re: '62 water pump
> 
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John,
> 
> Like others, I doubt your pump is the problem, but if it is and you
> want to
> rebuild it, you are welcome to use my press. 
> 
> When I put the '56 together, I was shocked at the corrosion/erosion
> of the
> water pump bolts, so I got the same lengths/thread, etc. in high
> quality
> stainless bolts.  Somebody ran straight water in there for a long
> time. I
> probably sacrificed a little strength, but I am pretty gentle with
> the car
> . . . I think I got the bolts at a fastener supply place in South
> Houston/Pasadena.
> 
> John Dillman   
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Kanter Auto Parts
World-wide supplier of new mechanical auto parts 
for Antique 1930 to 1986 American cars and trucks.
76 Monroe Street, Boonton, NJ 07005 USA
800-526-1096 or 973-334-9575
Monday- Friday 8:30 to 5:00 Eastern time and
for telephone sales only - 9:00 to 2:00 Saturday

http://www.kanter.com/


--- David Dodson <Dgd3@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Mark,
> Thanks for your reply.  Do you have an address, phone no., etc. for
> Kanter?  I
> don't have many catalogs since I was out of the Corvette pleasure
> zone for so
> long.
> Dave
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 12:08:20 PM, JATurner@redacted.email writes:
<<  What is the best way to get it out? >>

John,
Purchase a tap the same thread size as the bolt thread and run it through the 
block  threads. Use new Grade 5 (or better) bolts! Regards, Jim Frakes
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Greg,
I ordered a Kanter catalog.  Thanks for the info.
Dave
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

Chase the threaded hole with the correct size tap die.

I wouldn't worry to much about the crud.

Dave Juergens
' 57 2x4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Turner, John A. MD" <JATurner@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 12:07 PM
Subject: RE: '62 water pump


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Let's say there is a lot of crud in the bolt holes (maybe permatex and/or
> silicone gasket goop from prior water pump changes...), and that's
> interfering with the bolt.  What is the best way to get it out?  Last
time,
> I squirted carb cleaner in each hole and tried to scrape and loosen any
crud
> on the base with a nail, and then used compressed air, but I didn't get a
> good feeling as to how I was doing...  I had considered then just using a
> stud to be sure, or cutting the bolts a little.  I'll be up to my elbows
in
> radiator juice in the next couple of days, so I just want to get it right
> and I very much appreciate everyone's help!  -John  '62
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dillman [mailto:John.Dillman@redacted.email]
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:50 AM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Re: '62 water pump
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> Like others, I doubt your pump is the problem, but if it is and you want
to
> rebuild it, you are welcome to use my press.
>
> When I put the '56 together, I was shocked at the corrosion/erosion of the
> water pump bolts, so I got the same lengths/thread, etc. in high quality
> stainless bolts.  Somebody ran straight water in there for a long time. I
> probably sacrificed a little strength, but I am pretty gentle with the car
> . . . I think I got the bolts at a fastener supply place in South
> Houston/Pasadena.
>
> John Dillman
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

If you are not too finicky, or are feeling impoverished, or just don't want
to run to your FLAPS, but want to clean out those threads, you can take a
junk bolt, thread a nut all the way down it, then hit the side of it with a
bench grinder.  The idea is that you want to take one side of the bolt off
to leave room for the garbage that will get turned out of the hole.  After
grinding, turn the nut off, to clean the remaining threads some.  If you are
careful inserting it and threading it, you can clean it up pretty well.
Just run it through a few times gently.  Some will probably scream at this,
but I grew up in Eastern Kentucky, where people do things like this . . . 

John Dillman
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Both Johns,

Using the Kentuck method runs the risk of cross-threading especially if the
bolt pitch is slightly off the match of the block.  I would advise against
using a ground bolt!  Taps are cheap compared to ruined threads.

Dave Juergens
' 57 2x4


----- Original Message -----
From: "John Dillman" <John.Dillman@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 3:59 PM
Subject: '62 water pump


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> If you are not too finicky, or are feeling impoverished, or just don't
want
> to run to your FLAPS, but want to clean out those threads, you can take a
> junk bolt, thread a nut all the way down it, then hit the side of it with
a
> bench grinder.  The idea is that you want to take one side of the bolt off
> to leave room for the garbage that will get turned out of the hole.  After
> grinding, turn the nut off, to clean the remaining threads some.  If you
are
> careful inserting it and threading it, you can clean it up pretty well.
> Just run it through a few times gently.  Some will probably scream at
this,
> but I grew up in Eastern Kentucky, where people do things like this . . .
>
> John Dillman
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What about C1's??  I have a drivers window that I have to help up and down
while cranking.  Can I expect to install the new regulator gear,  adjust and
be cured?  I have no experience with window regulator but I have a friend
who does.

David Wilhoit
White 59 in TN

-----Original Message-----
From: Blakely, James 'CONTR' [mailto:BlakelyJ@redacted.email]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:35 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: window regulators


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Has anyone had experience using the regulator rebuild kits sold through the
various catalogs.  Seems my right side regulator on an 80 with power windows
won't kick the top front corner up and I am hoping the rebuild kits will fix
the problem without having to replace the regulator.

Jim Blakely
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
To tack something onto this inquire:
Does anybody make the pinion gear bearing for a C1 regulator? I bought 
the sector from either CC or Paragon but found my bearing needs therapy. 
Also when changing the sector gear do you hold it in place with a "C" 
clamp to keep the spring from unwinding and ruining your day? On your 
window David if you have to help it up, it might be something binding 
it's path. Make sure the two small screws in the window post felt and 
screwed in all of the way and check the felt pinching the window in the 
rear channel.
John from Ventura
57/270, new black paint in process?

>What about C1's??  I have a drivers window that I have to help up and down
>while cranking.  Can I expect to install the new regulator gear,  adjust and
>be cured?  I have no experience with window regulator but I have a friend
>who does.
>David Wilhoit
>White 59 in TN
>
>Has anyone had experience using the regulator rebuild kits sold through the
>various catalogs.  Seems my right side regulator on an 80 with power windows
>won't kick the top front corner up and I am hoping the rebuild kits will fix
>the problem without having to replace the regulator.
>Jim Blakely
-----------------------------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 16:14:04 -0500
From: steve meltzer <scheherazade@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ray, I know that this has been talked about before, and everyone on the
list knows more about this than I, but John Dillman and I just solved
this problem on my WCFB ('62). There's a little passage (vacuum, I
believe) that sucks in  excess fuel in a left hander, thus causing the
temporary flooding that leads to  stalling. The cure is a little piece
of metal tubing placed in that passage. Email me off line and I can send
you some more specific info on how to fix it. We used a little piece cut
from a set of TV rabbit ears...solved that problem. Also, make sure to
blow out the passages with compressed air, soak the accelerator pump in
oil overnight to get a good fit (my "new" pump was a POS, so we used the
old one), check the floats carefully as well. (my carb was rebuilt a
year ago by a "professional" and the floats were way, way off!) let me
know if I can help you with my meager, but newly acquired knowledge!
steve meltzer


-----------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm not sure about C1 or C2, but on later year GM, you compressed the two arms, slid a bolt through the hole and put the nut on.
After installing, you remove the nut and bolt.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john costales" <costales@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: window regulators


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
To tack something onto this inquire:
Does anybody make the pinion gear bearing for a C1 regulator? I bought
the sector from either CC or Paragon but found my bearing needs therapy.
Also when changing the sector gear do you hold it in place with a "C"
clamp to keep the spring from unwinding and ruining your day? On your
window David if you have to help it up, it might be something binding
it's path. Make sure the two small screws in the window post felt and
screwed in all of the way and check the felt pinching the window in the
rear channel.
John from Ventura
57/270, new black paint in process?

>What about C1's??  I have a drivers window that I have to help up and down
>while cranking.  Can I expect to install the new regulator gear,  adjust and
>be cured?  I have no experience with window regulator but I have a friend
>who does.
>David Wilhoit
>White 59 in TN
>
>Has anyone had experience using the regulator rebuild kits sold through the
>various catalogs.  Seems my right side regulator on an 80 with power windows
>won't kick the top front corner up and I am hoping the rebuild kits will fix
>the problem without having to replace the regulator.
>Jim Blakely
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Probably the best way to clean it is with a bottoming tap.  Run it in and it 
is designed to clean things up clear to the bottom of the hole

         FWIW
         Brian
        Silver (It's in the spray booth now) '62
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Let's say there is a lot of crud in the bolt holes (maybe permatex and/or
> silicone gasket goop from prior water pump changes...), and that's
> interfering with the bolt.  What is the best way to get it out?  Last time,
> I squirted carb cleaner in each hole and tried to scrape and loosen any crud
> on the base with a nail, and then used compressed air, but I didn't get a
> good feeling as to how I was doing...  I had considered then just using a
> stud to be sure, or cutting the bolts a little.  I'll be up to my elbows in
> radiator juice in the next couple of days, so I just want to get it right
> and I very much appreciate everyone's help!  -John  '62
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dillman [mailto:John.Dillman@redacted.email]
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:50 AM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: Re: '62 water pump
> 
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John,
> 
> Like others, I doubt your pump is the problem, but if it is and you want to
> rebuild it, you are welcome to use my press. 
> 
> When I put the '56 together, I was shocked at the corrosion/erosion of the
> water pump bolts, so I got the same lengths/thread, etc. in high quality
> stainless bolts.  Somebody ran straight water in there for a long time. I
> probably sacrificed a little strength, but I am pretty gentle with the car
> . . . I think I got the bolts at a fastener supply place in South
> Houston/Pasadena.
> 
> John Dillman   
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The spare tire board I got with my car is unfinished but I see them
advertised in CC's catalog as stained and finished.  Can anybody describe
the general look so I can go to Lowes and get the material to finish.

David Wilhoit
White 59 in TN
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
David,
I thin down some black paint to a very thin consistency and paint the board.
I have used black lacquer since it is so fast drying, but I am sure that
enamel would work just as well. The proper color is a very translucent black
color. You should be able to see all the grain of the plywood. I would cut
the paint 3 to 1 with thinner and see how that looks when it dries. You can
always put another coat on if you think it needs it, but you can't take one
off! Judges also look for glue slopped around the label edges. The repro
labels are all self adhesive, so you will need to put down some contact
adhesive anyway to get the right look for judging.
               Regards, John McGraw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wilhoit David" <WilhoitDavid@redacted.email>
To: "'corvette-resto'" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 9:09 PM
Subject: 56-60 Spare Tire Board


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The spare tire board I got with my car is unfinished but I see them
> advertised in CC's catalog as stained and finished.  Can anybody describe
> the general look so I can go to Lowes and get the material to finish.
>
> David Wilhoit
> White 59 in TN
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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From: "Scott Cantor" <scantor@redacted.email>
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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:38:42 -0600
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Subject: C3 hood stuck shut
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I hope that someone has a solution for me, for my stuck hood.

Last week I had my air conditioning condenser replace. The shop that did the
work had to remove and replace the hood. They told me they had trouble
adjusting it to fit. Well, when I got back home 180 miles away. The hood
would not release, after much gentle persuasion I was able to get the
passenger side to release but the Drivers side is still stuck.

I have removed the plug in the wiper compartment and spent several hours
trying to get the release to work, but I have convinced myself that they
release may not be the problem. I can pull the cable from the passenger side
but it still will not pop.

Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I ignite
the entire car?

Thank you,
Scott Cantor
74 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Try Hi-temp red silicone gasket cement--held tight on mine and is undetectable if applied carefully.

No the L-89 did not sell but went up to $85.4K I think.
Jeff B. '95, '69, 66 L-72. NCRS#39906.
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
You might want to go to Wild Bill's Corvettes and Hi Performance. <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~wildbillscorvette/">
http://home.att.net/~wildbillscorvette/</A>  He sells a king pin setup with needle bearings 
instead of the normal bushings. He calls them "the poor mans power steering".  
I put them in my '62 and was very satisfied.  They go for around $200.00 for a 
complete set.  

Good Luck

Norm.....'62, '99
-----------------------------------------------------
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From: Dave Philipsen <corvette-68@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Scott,

I have the same problem with my '68 except I can get the driver's side up and
not the passenger's side.  I'm slowly but surely working on getting the hinges
loosened up.  It's a pain reaching up under the front end to access these.  Let
me know if you find a simpler way because I still haven't been successful.

-Dave


Scott Cantor wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I hope that someone has a solution for me, for my stuck hood.
>
> Last week I had my air conditioning condenser replace. The shop that did the
> work had to remove and replace the hood. They told me they had trouble
> adjusting it to fit. Well, when I got back home 180 miles away. The hood
> would not release, after much gentle persuasion I was able to get the
> passenger side to release but the Drivers side is still stuck.
>
> I have removed the plug in the wiper compartment and spent several hours
> trying to get the release to work, but I have convinced myself that they
> release may not be the problem. I can pull the cable from the passenger side
> but it still will not pop.
>
> Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I ignite
> the entire car?
>
> Thank you,
> Scott Cantor
> 74 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

--
Dave Philipsen

'68 Lemans Blue 327/350 4-spd.
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 20 07:48:24 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Since I recently made this group aware of a repro. lower radiator hose
issue (missing spring) that I obtained from a well-known vendor, and I've
readily shared the facts of less than satisfactory prior vendor experiences
when asked, it's appropriate I report the rest of this story.

I was promptly contacted by the vendor, Dr. Rebuild, after he viewed my
post to this list (I was seeking verification that a spring was indeed
"correct" for this application).

In short, the Dr. had a new spring to me in less than 3 business days of
learning of the issue....and while I wish the hose had originally arrived
complete with the spring, I appreciate his customer service efforts to
quickly resolve this situation.

Note:  I'm not an employee, friend, stockholder, or distant relative of the
aforementioned entity, just a customer....

Hope everyone had a good "Drive your Vette to work day" today.

Cheers,

Ed
NCRS #?






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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks everyone!  Turns out that the passenger-side upper bolt which also
serves as the mounting site for the generator bracket had broken.
Fortunately for me, enough was sticking out of the head that I could remove
it with my trusty pliers.  I borrowed a tap from a mechanic friend and "ran"
all 4 holes with grease, and am awiating Mary Jo to send this specialized
bolt to me.  As for the other bolts - I'm replacing all of them.  Stupid
question - how exactly do I tell if a bolt is Grade 5 or better?  Seems like
it had something to do with the number of ridges on the head...  Thanks
again, everyone!  -John  '62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
3 hash marks = Gr 5
5 hash marks = Gr 8

IMHO, there is no application on an automoble that should use less than
a grade 5 bolt.
Greg Mankin
--- "Turner, John A. MD" <JATurner@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks everyone!  Turns out that the passenger-side upper bolt which
> also
> serves as the mounting site for the generator bracket had broken.
> Fortunately for me, enough was sticking out of the head that I could
> remove
> it with my trusty pliers.  I borrowed a tap from a mechanic friend
> and "ran"
> all 4 holes with grease, and am awiating Mary Jo to send this
> specialized
> bolt to me.  As for the other bolts - I'm replacing all of them. 
> Stupid
> question - how exactly do I tell if a bolt is Grade 5 or better? 
> Seems like
> it had something to do with the number of ridges on the head... 
> Thanks
> again, everyone!  -John  '62
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


__________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>I hope that someone has a solution for me, for my stuck hood.
>
>Last week I had my air conditioning condenser replace. The shop that did the
>work had to remove and replace the hood. They told me they had trouble
>adjusting it to fit. Well, when I got back home 180 miles away. The hood
>would not release, after much gentle persuasion I was able to get the
>passenger side to release but the Drivers side is still stuck.
>
>I have removed the plug in the wiper compartment and spent several hours
>trying to get the release to work, but I have convinced myself that they
>release may not be the problem. I can pull the cable from the passenger side
>but it still will not pop.
>
>Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I ignite
>the entire car?
>
>Thank you,
>Scott Cantor
>74 Coupe

hello Mr Cantor,

had similar problem with '78 battle caddy...not positive how hood 
finally released...however, here's one suggestion:  you might try 
having someone (an assistant) bear down on the corner that won't 
release while you try your 'wiper compartment' release...guessing 
that your release problem stems from mechanical flaw (sticking 
components) in the latch...but since repair place has 'adjusted' 
there may be a 'mechanical' bond elsewhere along hood's mating 
surface....will be interested to learn how you've solved this and 
what was done after hood finally re-opened,

best of luck,

dave dickerson, austin, tx
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks Norm.
I am definitely interested, I'll check it out.
Dave
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Scott,

I'm not sure about the side openings on the 74 and if the hood latches
changed since 72.  I am able to reach through the drivers side opening
and reach the latch to move it.

If the opening is too small you might be able to reach up from
underneath.  You might have to jack the car up to get that far
underneath.  (be careful)

On the 72, the cable pulls back on the drivers side hood latch.  The
latch pulls on the cable going to the passenger side and moves it.

Good luck.

Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
 
follow my restoration at www.thespark.us
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
Scott Cantor
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 11:39 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C3 hood stuck shut

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I hope that someone has a solution for me, for my stuck hood.

Last week I had my air conditioning condenser replace. The shop that did
the
work had to remove and replace the hood. They told me they had trouble
adjusting it to fit. Well, when I got back home 180 miles away. The hood
would not release, after much gentle persuasion I was able to get the
passenger side to release but the Drivers side is still stuck.

I have removed the plug in the wiper compartment and spent several hours
trying to get the release to work, but I have convinced myself that they
release may not be the problem. I can pull the cable from the passenger
side
but it still will not pop.

Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I
ignite
the entire car?

Thank you,
Scott Cantor
74 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 20 12:58:03 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Well, I finally did it!  I got my car running and it is now over getting
an alignment!  YEAH

 

I still have some minor glitches and adjustments to make but it is
running and drivable.  

 

Thanks to all that have helped me in this endeavor.  It is my first
attempt at restoring a car and it has been humbling.  Looking back I see
where I made plenty of mistakes and wasted lots of money I didn't need
to.  But without this group, I would have been really lost.

 

Thanks again.

 

And don't think I'm going away.  I'm just not going to bug you near as
much (at least for a while).

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 
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I just looked up valve cover gaskets on the FelPro site.  Any idea which
one I should use, 5/32" or 7/32", cork or rubber ?  What was original ??

Gary Lapman
'61 Fawn 230hp

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Gary, I've always used FelPro "BlueLine" cork for the valve covers on my small 
blocks.  They seem to be about the best on the market.   don't think this is 
an item that gets judged, except that the cork does show a little and was the 
standard in '61.
          Brian
       Silver '62
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I just looked up valve cover gaskets on the FelPro site.  Any idea which
> one I should use, 5/32" or 7/32", cork or rubber ?  What was original ??
> 
> Gary Lapman
> '61 Fawn 230hp
> 
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I appreciate everyone's replies concerning my spare tire board.  Just one
more...... does anyone have the bolt that holds the spare tire board down
handy?  I need to know how long it is from one end to the other.

David Wilhoit
White 59 in TN  
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Scott,

Since the passengers side has released you might try, with a helper, pushing
against the hood parting line in the direction of the drivers latch.  Push
and pull up, forcing the hood to change geometry or shape slightly.  Perhaps
shortening the distance between latch centers.  The helper pushes "against
you" to make sure the hood doesn't move in the wrong direction.

What has happened is the triangular shape of the hood bolt has been forced
into the latch opening and is stuck in the undercut.  Probably in the
direction of the release mechanism which is in an open position.  The cable
between the two latches should have some slack in it.  So should the cockpit
handle.

Deep breath...and push, forcing it to pop open.

Good luck and put the matches away.

Dave Juergens
' 71 400 SB roadster




Original Message -----
From: "Scott Cantor" <scantor@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 12:38 AM
Subject: C3 hood stuck shut


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I hope that someone has a solution for me, for my stuck hood.
>
> Last week I had my air conditioning condenser replace. The shop that did
the
> work had to remove and replace the hood. They told me they had trouble
> adjusting it to fit. Well, when I got back home 180 miles away. The hood
> would not release, after much gentle persuasion I was able to get the
> passenger side to release but the Drivers side is still stuck.
>
> I have removed the plug in the wiper compartment and spent several hours
> trying to get the release to work, but I have convinced myself that they
> release may not be the problem. I can pull the cable from the passenger
side
> but it still will not pop.
>
> Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I ignite
> the entire car?
>
> Thank you,
> Scott Cantor
> 74 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Stuck hood on '74
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Scott Wrote:
Please, please does someone/anyone have any ideas for me, before I ignite
> the entire car?
SCOTT,
    Please don't ignite your 74. I have had the similar problem and it took a
"great deal" of patience to get the job done. If you just keep trying and have
patience, I think you will get it through the release hole. I had to use the
screwdriver to puch the release and at the same time kinda "work the hood" in
a slight circular motion and wala! It popped out.  I was a very happy camper.
BTW, was the place you took the car to have the A/C worked on a Corvette shop
or just a regular "run of the mill" A/C outfit?  I found (before I got so
frustrated that I decided I would ALWAYS do my own work on my car) that unless
the shop you choose knows their way around Vettes really well, that they
likely will mess things up one way or another. They don't know about the
nuances that need to be dealt with on Vettes. Hope ya get er worked out soon
so you can relax and enjoy your ride again.   Blessings !!
Greg Bares
'74 L82 Coupe
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Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 10:56:25 -0400
From: "Louis J. Podrazik" <temppodra@redacted.email>
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Subject: RE: 60 posi date code
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks John; in view of your judging comments,
I think my search may be over...

-Lou Podrazik  '60 NCRS 37160, SACC 2192

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+temppodra=comcast.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+temppodra=comcast.net@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Snake488@redacted.email
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:06 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: 60 posi date code


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/19/2003 7:22:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
temppodra@redacted.email writes:


> In my pursuit of a correct posi for my 1960 Corvette SN 00867S101988
> (born on 12/28/59 ?), I have found the following 3-rd member housing
> from Werner Grossmueller:
>
> Casting #:             3743833     (thin-P)
> Casting date code:    I-30-9     (9/30/59 ?)
> Build code:            AX1222    (Dec 22)
>

Lou -

       Good casting number/date and build date for your car, but "AX" is a
passenger car ratio code; the "Thin P" carriers were built at Detroit Gear &
Axle for both Corvettes and passenger cars (Buffalo carriers had the "thick
P"
casting, for passenger cars only).

       Axle "numbers" are not judged by NCRS for Flight Judging - only for
"Bowtie" judging; Flight Judging only considers configuration and appearance
that can be seen from lying on the ground.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hi Dave,  I noticed your post and saw the penn state
conection.  Are you the Dave Dodson that has a 59
vette that once was driven to Pikes Peak and ran out
of gas?  If you are you know who i am, how are you
doing?  Bill
--- David Dodson <Dgd3@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Norm.
> I am definitely interested, I'll check it out.
> Dave
>
-----------------------------------------------------
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>
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> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


__________________________________
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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Subject: Ignition problems 60 vette
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Car has a miss problem. I checked  out system and found these results.  With 
ignition switch in run position have 7.5 volts at ballast resistor. wire that 
goes to coil.When start car get full voltage 12.5 to coil.  As I understand 
points systems with ballast resistor, this is correct. When checked voltage with 
engine runnung had full 12.5 volts from coil pos. and engine ground. Since I 
am getting full volts with engine running ign coil gets extremly hot and point 
dwell has changed to 35.  I think ign switch is somehow backfeeding around 
ballast resitor and coil and points are burning up due to receiveing full 
voltage all the time. Does this make sense  Help me solve this  Thanks  60 Toy
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Subject: Re: Ignition problems 60 vette
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/21/2003 12:48:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Shelbysue120@redacted.email writes:


> When checked voltage with 
> engine runnung had full 12.5 volts from coil pos. and engine ground. Since I 
> 
> am getting full volts with engine running ign coil gets extremly hot and 
> point 
> dwell has changed to 35.  I think ign switch is somehow backfeeding around 
> ballast resitor and coil and points are burning up due to receiveing full 
> voltage all the time. Does this make sense  Help me solve this  Thanks  60 
> Toy

       Your first assumption about how the system works is correct. As to the 
problem (12.5V at the coil when running), the coil (+) only sees two power 
sources - the primary feed from the resistor, and the cranking-only full 12V 
feed from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. I'd go for the solenoid first 
- sounds like it's continuing to feed a full 12V after the starter 
disengages. You can verify this by disconnecting the 18-ga. dark green wire from the 
solenoid and checking voltage again at the coil with the engine running; if it's 
7-8 volts (as it should be from the resistor), you've found the problem, and 
it's time for a new solenoid.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Help with the 66 Coupe Again
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Well, I'm restoring the interior I thought it would be a good idea to replace 
the heater core while I have the dash apart and the rugs out.  But, none of 
the manuals give me a clue about removing the heater core, by the way this is 
an A/C car.  So far I have removed the plate in the engine compartment that 
covers the core and I'm looking at the passenger compartment and will remove the 
one nut that seems to have something to do with holding the heater box, if 
this doesn't do it I will stop till I hear from the forum.
Thanks,
Charlie Falson
66 Coupe
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Subject: Removing Plate Holding Ash Tray & Shifter Cover
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm planning carpet replacement in my 62 and understand there is a nut
holding the ash tray / shifter cover.  I presume this must be removed when
replacing the carpet over the transmission tunnel.  Is this difficult or are
there tricks to this with the transmission in the car?

Any other things to know about carpet replacement would be helpful also.

Thanks,

Don May
Red 62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/21/2003 3:30:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
don.may@redacted.email writes:


> I'm planning carpet replacement in my 62 and understand there is a nut
> holding the ash tray / shifter cover.  I presume this must be removed when
> replacing the carpet over the transmission tunnel.  Is this difficult or are
> there tricks to this with the transmission in the car?
> 

Don -

       Remove the two tiny screws on the shift pattern plate, and under it 
you'll find two larger screws that hold the ash tray/shifter trim bezel (and 
shift boot) to the floor. Lay your new carpet out in the sun first to soften it 
up, and don't cut ANYTHING to trim it until you're absolutely sure it fits the 
way you want it.

       Get under the car first and locate the ends of the trim screws that 
attach the carpet to the floor and mark them so you can come back later and 
stick an awl through those holes to make the holes in the new carpet for the 
screws - no point in having two sets of screw holes in the floor.

       This is also a good time to think about installing a heat barrier kit 
on the bare floor before you install the new carpet - makes a big difference 
in cockpit heat.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the advice on the shifter plate--is any particular heat barrier
(material or brand) better than another?

Don May
Red 62


Don -

       Remove the two tiny screws on the shift pattern plate, and under it
you'll find two larger screws that hold the ash tray/shifter trim bezel (and
shift boot) to the floor. Lay your new carpet out in the sun first to soften
it
up, and don't cut ANYTHING to trim it until you're absolutely sure it fits
the
way you want it.

       Get under the car first and locate the ends of the trim screws that
attach the carpet to the floor and mark them so you can come back later and
stick an awl through those holes to make the holes in the new carpet for the
screws - no point in having two sets of screw holes in the floor.

       This is also a good time to think about installing a heat barrier kit
on the bare floor before you install the new carpet - makes a big difference
in cockpit heat.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Don,
As usual, John's advise is spot on! As for heat insulating material, I did a 
fair amount of research a while back and found Cool It by Thermo Tec, 
Aluminized Heat Barrier, had the qualities I was after, including thinness. It does 
make a difference!. I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce & Speciality Co. Regards, 
Jim Frakes 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
There is a good heat barrier by the roll at Lowe's and I'm sure at other
home improvement stores.  It is cheaper than buying at Jeg's, etc.  However,
you have to cut it to fit - since we are all DIY, this probably is a good
thing - you can cut it exactly how you like it.  It comes in a roll of
different sizes.  Just ask a floor clerk for "Reflectix Insulation" - this
is a brand name.  There are others on the market equally as good - I just
happen to use this one.  The ones you buy at Jeg's are pre-cut and very
expensive.

Everyone on this board suggest gluing it to the floor pan.  I just laid mine
in and then laid the carpet on top.  I could not see a compelling reason to
glue it.  Perhaps we can get some feedback on this - to glue or not to glue.

Steve
'74 ragtop

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Don May
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 1:37 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: Removing Plate Holding Ash Tray & Shifter Cover


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the advice on the shifter plate--is any particular heat barrier
(material or brand) better than another?

Don May
Red 62


Don -

       Remove the two tiny screws on the shift pattern plate, and under it
you'll find two larger screws that hold the ash tray/shifter trim bezel (and
shift boot) to the floor. Lay your new carpet out in the sun first to soften
it
up, and don't cut ANYTHING to trim it until you're absolutely sure it fits
the
way you want it.

       Get under the car first and locate the ends of the trim screws that
attach the carpet to the floor and mark them so you can come back later and
stick an awl through those holes to make the holes in the new carpet for the
screws - no point in having two sets of screw holes in the floor.

       This is also a good time to think about installing a heat barrier kit
on the bare floor before you install the new carpet - makes a big difference
in cockpit heat.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charlie: The heater core is in the air box inside the  car. The box has to
come out to change it. Disconnect the battery.There are three studs coming
through the fire wall from the inside that retain the box. Two of them go
through the evaporator case and one through the heater hose plate. take
those nuts off. Inside the car: Remove the glove box assembly, the defroster
duct, the console, radio side panels   and the right a/c duct. At each end
of the air box is a stud with a nut on it. Remove them. Disconnect the
cables to the box, the electrical connections and the vac hoses. The box is
now ready to come out. It takes some prying because it will be stuck to the
insulation but it will come out from under the dash. Turn it over and you
will see the retainers that hold the core. This is the time to change seals
and gaskets, lube everything up and give it a major cleaning. Good luck,
write if you hit a snag.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tentuna@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 3:19 PM
Subject: Help with the 66 Coupe Again


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Well, I'm restoring the interior I thought it would be a good idea to
replace
> the heater core while I have the dash apart and the rugs out.  But, none
of
> the manuals give me a clue about removing the heater core, by the way this
is
> an A/C car.  So far I have removed the plate in the engine compartment
that
> covers the core and I'm looking at the passenger compartment and will
remove the
> one nut that seems to have something to do with holding the heater box, if
> this doesn't do it I will stop till I hear from the forum.
> Thanks,
> Charlie Falson
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charlie,

	Ken already laid out the procedure very nicely, but I ended up removing
the radio, the lower duct extension, and the center "Y" duct in order to
pull the distribution box.

	I don't know that you need to all that, and I'll defer to Ken, but its
what I ended up doing--the dash was in at the time and it was my first
attempt at replacing the heater core in my car.

	When you are ready to pull the distribution box, be careful to pry it
as Ken suggested and be mindful that two of the studs which go through
the firewall are anchored to the box and it can crack if you force it
too much.  It was an easy fix with some epoxy, but I overdid it on one
of them.
   
	Same thing when you get back to reassembling the box and reinstalling
all the little screws, be mindful that the holes in the box won't take
too much tightening.  It was an easy fix with some epoxy, but I overdid
it on a few of them.

	Ditto when you close the rivets to the metal components inside the box,
be mindful that the box itself won't take much pounding.  It was an easy
fix with some epoxy, but I overdid it on a couple of them.

	As you can see, there was a definite trend in my first time through
learning experience wnich, now that I've shared it with you, you can
hopefully avoid making the same mistakes.

	On a more positive note, however, I am now pretty good at working with
epoxy.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe


Ken Edmunds wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Charlie: The heater core is in the air box inside the  car. The box has to
> come out to change it. Disconnect the battery.There are three studs coming
> through the fire wall from the inside that retain the box. Two of them go
> through the evaporator case and one through the heater hose plate. take
> those nuts off. Inside the car: Remove the glove box assembly, the defroster
> duct, the console, radio side panels   and the right a/c duct. At each end
> of the air box is a stud with a nut on it. Remove them. Disconnect the
> cables to the box, the electrical connections and the vac hoses. The box is
> now ready to come out. It takes some prying because it will be stuck to the
> insulation but it will come out from under the dash. Turn it over and you
> will see the retainers that hold the core. This is the time to change seals
> and gaskets, lube everything up and give it a major cleaning. Good luck,
> write if you hit a snag.
> Ken
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Tentuna@redacted.email>
> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 3:19 PM
> Subject: Help with the 66 Coupe Again
> 
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Well, I'm restoring the interior I thought it would be a good idea to
> replace
> > the heater core while I have the dash apart and the rugs out.  But, none
> of
> > the manuals give me a clue about removing the heater core, by the way this
> is
> > an A/C car.  So far I have removed the plate in the engine compartment
> that
> > covers the core and I'm looking at the passenger compartment and will
> remove the
> > one nut that seems to have something to do with holding the heater box, if
> > this doesn't do it I will stop till I hear from the forum.
> > Thanks,
> > Charlie Falson
> > 66 Coupe
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > Send other comments or questions about this list to
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> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun 21 19:23:19 2003
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Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 19:23:09 -0700
From: John Luongo <64Corvette@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I have a scratch in the aluminum insert on the glovebox of my '64 Coupe.
It's deep enough to have penetrated into the metal.  Since the aluminum
seems to have a clearcoat finish, I don't think that it can be repaired.
The back of the glovebox door appears to be riveted.

My questions are:
1.  Can I replace the aluminum insert?  What is the best source for
replacements?
2.  If I decide to have the whole glove box door restored, who does the
best work?

Thanks,
John Luongo
'64 Coupe 250/Automatic
-----------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:24:56 -0400
From: Eddie Main <evmain@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John,

    You can not repair the scratch.  You can replace the insert however.  I
did one but I bought another door on ebay for about $20 so I wouldn't ruin
my original one.  You have to drill out the rivets being careful not to
drill through the door.  Then you take it apart, clean and repaint it and
put in a new insert.  You can buy the inserts from any of the usual
suppliers of parts.  Then you have to very carefully tap the old rivets and
replace the rivet heads with a little screw that looks like a threaded
rivet.  This is not easy and to be honest I was only able to tap about half
of them.  I J.B. welded the others.  It turned out great and I have less
than $50 in it and I still have my original door.  You can however get it
professionally done.  I would suggest Corvette Specialities of Maryland,
the web site is :   http://www.corvettespecialtiesofmd.com/    Good luck!

Eddie

'64   327 / 365


John Luongo wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I have a scratch in the aluminum insert on the glovebox of my '64 Coupe.
> It's deep enough to have penetrated into the metal.  Since the aluminum
> seems to have a clearcoat finish, I don't think that it can be repaired.
> The back of the glovebox door appears to be riveted.
>
> My questions are:
> 1.  Can I replace the aluminum insert?  What is the best source for
> replacements?
> 2.  If I decide to have the whole glove box door restored, who does the
> best work?
>
> Thanks,
> John Luongo
> '64 Coupe 250/Automatic
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Heat barrier for the car may be purchased at Home Depot in a roll.  This is
actually home heater/air conditioning duct insulation.  Don't worry about glue
either the stuff we use is foil backed and 12" wide and has a self adhesive on
the bottom.  You just roll it out and it stick's to what ever you are putting
it on.  The cost is about 15.00 for a roll and two rolls will do the entire
car!  I will be out there next week maybe I can get a stock number for you
guy's.  This stuff is really good!

E
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
When I was reinstalling my head on my 54 after getting a valve job, I discovered what appears to be a factory defect in the casting of my intake manifold. On one of the connections where it connects to the head it appears to have a very slight defect which is causing it to leak. I currently have one gasket on, which is leaking. My question is, could I use something like JB Weld to fill in the defect and then put on double gaskets to stop the leak? Would the JB Weld be able to handle the hot temps, or is there something better I should use to fix the leak? Is there some kind of gasket searler than might work better?
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I too looked at the price of the Heat Barrier kits from the usual suppliers 
and then went looking at home supply and hardware stores.

I bought a roll of the material and cut my own, again at a substantial 
savings over the pre-cut kits.  It does make a tremendous difference in the cockpit 
heat.

I did not glue mine, the trim pieces and kick panel that hold the majority of 
the carpet in place, as well as the carpet itself hold the insulation in 
place very well.

A hint, don't forget to put the heat barrier under the seats too.  You can 
cut a rectangle that fits under and between the seat frames and doesn't 
interfere with seat adjustment.  That area makes up a substantial surface are that is 
not protected by carpet and such and makes a difference in heat flow into the 
cockpit.  In the C-1 the pipes run directly under the seats, so anything there 
is better than nothing.

Darrell
'59
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Good points Nick, I do it so often I forget to mention some things I take
for granted.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Nicolas Sakellis" <nsakellis@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Help with the 66 Coupe Again


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Charlie,
>
> Ken already laid out the procedure very nicely, but I ended up removing
> the radio, the lower duct extension, and the center "Y" duct in order to
> pull the distribution box.
>
> I don't know that you need to all that, and I'll defer to Ken, but its
> what I ended up doing--the dash was in at the time and it was my first
> attempt at replacing the heater core in my car.
>
> When you are ready to pull the distribution box, be careful to pry it
> as Ken suggested and be mindful that two of the studs which go through
> the firewall are anchored to the box and it can crack if you force it
> too much.  It was an easy fix with some epoxy, but I overdid it on one
> of them.
>
> Same thing when you get back to reassembling the box and reinstalling
> all the little screws, be mindful that the holes in the box won't take
> too much tightening.  It was an easy fix with some epoxy, but I overdid
> it on a few of them.
>
> Ditto when you close the rivets to the metal components inside the box,
> be mindful that the box itself won't take much pounding.  It was an easy
> fix with some epoxy, but I overdid it on a couple of them.
>
> As you can see, there was a definite trend in my first time through
> learning experience wnich, now that I've shared it with you, you can
> hopefully avoid making the same mistakes.
>
> On a more positive note, however, I am now pretty good at working with
> epoxy.
>
> Nick Sakellis
> '66 Coupe
>
>
> Ken Edmunds wrote:
> >
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Charlie: The heater core is in the air box inside the  car. The box has
to
> > come out to change it. Disconnect the battery.There are three studs
coming
> > through the fire wall from the inside that retain the box. Two of them
go
> > through the evaporator case and one through the heater hose plate. take
> > those nuts off. Inside the car: Remove the glove box assembly, the
defroster
> > duct, the console, radio side panels   and the right a/c duct. At each
end
> > of the air box is a stud with a nut on it. Remove them. Disconnect the
> > cables to the box, the electrical connections and the vac hoses. The box
is
> > now ready to come out. It takes some prying because it will be stuck to
the
> > insulation but it will come out from under the dash. Turn it over and
you
> > will see the retainers that hold the core. This is the time to change
seals
> > and gaskets, lube everything up and give it a major cleaning. Good luck,
> > write if you hit a snag.
> > Ken
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Tentuna@redacted.email>
> > To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> > Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 3:19 PM
> > Subject: Help with the 66 Coupe Again
> >
> > > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Well, I'm restoring the interior I thought it would be a good idea to
> > replace
> > > the heater core while I have the dash apart and the rugs out.  But,
none
> > of
> > > the manuals give me a clue about removing the heater core, by the way
this
> > is
> > > an A/C car.  So far I have removed the plate in the engine compartment
> > that
> > > covers the core and I'm looking at the passenger compartment and will
> > remove the
> > > one nut that seems to have something to do with holding the heater
box, if
> > > this doesn't do it I will stop till I hear from the forum.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Charlie Falson
> > > 66 Coupe
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > For subscriber information, see
> > > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
A friend of mine is in the process of putting his dash back together and
is having some questions about the speaker grille and dash pad.  First,
I have an unrestored '58 and we looked at the speaker grille and it
looks like it goes in from the bottom with the t-bolts going down from
the top through the grille and speaker.  I assume that is the correct
assembly sequence.  When he puts the dash pad over it the speaker grille
is setting below the dash pad level.  Should the speaker grille be flush
with the dash pad?  He's using an Al Knoch pad, has any one else used
this pad and had to trim the foam around the grille to get the right
thickness?

TIA,

Ted
NCRS #30057
-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Exhaust manifold torque
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm changing out the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 66, 300 hp, 327.  Does
anyone have a good torque number for the bolts that connect the manifold to
the block.  It seems to me that I've been told that the factory didn't use
gaskets.  That being the case, would the published numbers be a little low?
tia

Bob
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Subject: Re: 54 intake manifold leak??????
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Not sure exactly where it's leaking, but I would remove the intake, and have 
it heli-arc'ed, and machined flat.   Wouldn't mess with temporary "stop gap" 
measures.  Those cars run rich enough, without having an intake leak causing it 
to run richer.  Chuck
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Bob,
The Chevy Service manual I have says: Center bolts (2)  25-30 ft. #, End 
bolts (4)
15-20 ft. #. Regards, Jim Frakes 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/22/2003 1:45:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
66stingray@redacted.email writes:


> I'm changing out the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 66, 300 hp, 327.  Does
> anyone have a good torque number for the bolts that connect the manifold to
> the block.  It seems to me that I've been told that the factory didn't use
> gaskets.  That being the case, would the published numbers be a little low?
> 

Bob -

       Chevy V-8's never used gaskets for the exhaust manifolds, although 
aftermarket gasket suppliers seem compelled to include them in gasket kits. I 
torque my outer bolts to 20-25 and the inners to 30-35, and have never had an 
exhaust leak. Pays to use anti-seize on them too - lots easier to remove them 
next time, won't gall the threads.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John-

After I removed the exhaust manifold on my '74, it had gaskets.  I am almost
sure the engine has never been apart - due to a lot of the original nuts,
holders, etc. that are used to facilitate the assembly process.  So, I
believe mine had the exhaust gaskets on them from the factory.  And, you are
right, aftermarket gasket companies (Felpro included) have exhaust gaskets
in the kit.  I am using them on my rebuild since they had them originally.
I will look in my AIM to see what it shows.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Snake488@redacted.email
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 11:00 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold torque


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/22/2003 1:45:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
66stingray@redacted.email writes:


> I'm changing out the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 66, 300 hp, 327.  Does
> anyone have a good torque number for the bolts that connect the manifold
to
> the block.  It seems to me that I've been told that the factory didn't use
> gaskets.  That being the case, would the published numbers be a little
low?
>

Bob -

       Chevy V-8's never used gaskets for the exhaust manifolds, although
aftermarket gasket suppliers seem compelled to include them in gasket kits.
I
torque my outer bolts to 20-25 and the inners to 30-35, and have never had
an
exhaust leak. Pays to use anti-seize on them too - lots easier to remove
them
next time, won't gall the threads.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold torque
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/22/2003 5:58:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sbrown3@redacted.email writes:


> After I removed the exhaust manifold on my '74, it had gaskets.  I am 
> almost
> sure the engine has never been apart - due to a lot of the original nuts,
> holders, etc. that are used to facilitate the assembly process.  So, I
> believe mine had the exhaust gaskets on them from the factory.  And, you are
> right, aftermarket gasket companies (Felpro included) have exhaust gaskets
> in the kit.  I am using them on my rebuild since they had them originally.
> I will look in my AIM to see what it shows.
> 

Steve -

       Nope, no Chevy V-8 ever left the factory with exhaust manifold gaskets 
- you won't see anything about it in the A.I.M., as the manifolds were 
installed at the engine plant, not the assembly plant. If you'll check the exhaust 
manifold removal/installation section in the Chassis Service Manual, you'll 
note that there is no reference at all to gaskets, and if you have the NCRS 
Judging Guide for your car, you'll find a note in the "Mechanical" section that 
requires an originality deduction for the presence of any exhaust manifold 
gaskets. Sixty million of them left Flint and Tonawanda over the years, and not one 
had exhaust manifold gaskets.

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 22 16:51:34 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks to all heater box is out and the core was shot.  Pulled it Sunday as 
suggested I pulled all including ducts and nothing broke.  Once I had it our I 
could see the core had been leaking and now will deal some rust and the mess 
at this stage, not when the interior and dash is completely restored.
Thanks again to Ken and  Nick
Charlie Falson
66 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charlie,

	Glad to hear it went well.  On the heater core, and between this and
the NCRS lists (can I say that?), there is some great stuff archived on
new versus recoring.

	A lot of guys, including myself, apparently find the original Harrison
date coded core when they do this job.

	Its not a judging issue to my knowledge because it can't be seen
(although I do seem to recall seeing a post somewhere about subtle
differences in the tubes), but its still something you'll find yourself
thinking about. 

	On the seal kits, and while they all have the same basic stuff, there
are some differences.  Some kits will do just the box, others will also
give you stuff for the ducts.  Some kits have peel-off plastic with
advesive underneath, others do not and need to be glued with
weatherstrip adhesive. 

	Also, if you need to remove the metal bafles and reconditioning them
because of rust, then another question you will want to ask your
supplier is whether their kit includes the rivets.

	Another thing I found VERY helpful when it came time to reassemble the
box was having taken a whole mess of digital images of the box BEFORE I
broke it all down.  There are several little brackets and such which,
without the pictures, I would of had a hard time figuring out where to
position.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

Tentuna@redacted.email wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks to all heater box is out and the core was shot.  Pulled it Sunday as
> suggested I pulled all including ducts and nothing broke.  Once I had it our I
> could see the core had been leaking and now will deal some rust and the mess
> at this stage, not when the interior and dash is completely restored.
> Thanks again to Ken and  Nick
> Charlie Falson
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 22 17:48:51 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Charlie,

	Glad to hear it went well.  On the heater core, and between this and
the NCRS lists (can I say that?), there is some great stuff archived on
new versus recoring.

	A lot of guys, including myself, apparently find the original Harrison
date coded core when they do this job.

	Its not a judging issue to my knowledge because it can't be seen
(although I do seem to recall seeing a post somewhere about subtle
differences in the tubes), but its still something you'll find yourself
thinking about. 

	On the seal kits, and while they all have the same basic stuff, there
are some differences.  Some kits will do just the box, others will also
give you stuff for the ducts.  Some kits have peel-off plastic with
advesive underneath, others do not and need to be glued with
weatherstrip adhesive. 

	Also, if you need to remove the metal bafles and reconditioning them
because of rust, then another question you will want to ask your
supplier is whether their kit includes the rivets.

	Another thing I found VERY helpful when it came time to reassemble the
box was having taken a whole mess of digital images of the box BEFORE I
broke it all down.  There are several little brackets and such which,
without the pictures, I would of had a hard time figuring out where to
position.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

Tentuna@redacted.email wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Thanks to all heater box is out and the core was shot.  Pulled it Sunday as
> suggested I pulled all including ducts and nothing broke.  Once I had it our I
> could see the core had been leaking and now will deal some rust and the mess
> at this stage, not when the interior and dash is completely restored.
> Thanks again to Ken and  Nick
> Charlie Falson
> 66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 22 17:49:21 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
congrats scott.....gives me plenty of incentive to get moving a bit faster
on  my own project. picking up the engine tomorrow.
Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
To: "'Corvette Restoration'" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 3:57 PM
Subject: Guess What!


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Well, I finally did it!  I got my car running and it is now over getting
> an alignment!  YEAH
>
>
>
> I still have some minor glitches and adjustments to make but it is
> running and drivable.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all that have helped me in this endeavor.  It is my first
> attempt at restoring a car and it has been humbling.  Looking back I see
> where I made plenty of mistakes and wasted lots of money I didn't need
> to.  But without this group, I would have been really lost.
>
>
>
> Thanks again.
>
>
>
> And don't think I'm going away.  I'm just not going to bug you near as
> much (at least for a while).
>
>
>
> Scott Sparkman
>
> '72 LS5 convertible
>
>
>
> follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/>
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 22 19:26:31 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Did a parade today, overheated and the newly crowned town MISS, had to bail to
another car.  Car is stock, 6 Volt, a frequent driver; can an electric fan be
installed to help cool in parade situations?  If so where to get such?  Kelly
McClain 54
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
an overzealous buffer went onto the taillight lens and they are scuffed in
several spots so they do not have their clear reflections of the plastic
surface.  Can they be buffed with something to bring back the "clear shine" of
fresh plastic?  Kelly McClain 54.
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Subject: prep to touch up rock chips
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kids waxed the car for Father's Dad. I want to touch up the rock chips on the
nose with the stock Polo White.  What should be done to remove the wax and
grim in the rock chip pits?  Kelly McClain 54
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Please, what is the difference in torque specs for the valve cover bolts on
the aluminum covers versus the steel covers ??

Gary Lapman
'61 Fawn 283-230

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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YES  they can be buffed, I have done all my lenses and have come out great, check
out  "www.eastwoodcompany.com"  they have buffing supplies that I used.
{no I'm not on commision}

Kelly McClain wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> an overzealous buffer went onto the taillight lens and they are scuffed in
> several spots so they do not have their clear reflections of the plastic
> surface.  Can they be buffed with something to bring back the "clear shine" of
> fresh plastic?  Kelly McClain 54.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Kelly,

	Couple of things you can try--one is 3M Plastic Cleaner and the other
is a product called Novus--both are mild abrasives in a thick liquid
consistency. 

	I found the 3M stuff at my local hardware store, and the Novus you can
buy on line.

	Novus is used by telephone hobbyists to buff out scratches on both the
older softer and newer harder plastics.  Its sold in two
consistencies--one for heavy and another for fine scratch removal.  They
also make a cleaner.

	Unless the damage is really bad, the fine consistency (the 3M product
is for fine scratches also) should bring your lenses back up nicely.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe

Kelly McClain wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> an overzealous buffer went onto the taillight lens and they are scuffed in
> several spots so they do not have their clear reflections of the plastic
> surface.  Can they be buffed with something to bring back the "clear shine" of
> fresh plastic?  Kelly McClain 54.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Can anyone help me with the identification of a block with cast number
3789985. I am not sure what it is or what vehicle it is from. I am sure that
someone will be able to help.
Regards  from Australia
John Horsnell
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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the number i find close is 3789935 and it is 283cu in 1961/64

>From: "John" >Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email >To: "crpl list email"
>Subject: Block ID >Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 23:04:27 +1000 > >The Corvette
Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>----------------------------------------------------- >Can anyone help
me with the identification of a block with cast number >3789985. I am not
sure what it is or what vehicle it is from. I am sure that >someone will
be able to help. >Regards from Australia >John Horsnell
>----------------------------------------------------- >For subscriber
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Subject: C1 stainless trim
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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What is the best way to "buff" out the scratches on the stainless trim 
pieces. ie. the fender and cove mouldings, as well as the top of the windshield 
frame.

I have used a buffing wheel and mild compund which has brought back a shine, 
but there are still uite a few scratches left.   

Thanks 

-jim / 61
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Hi Bill,
yes I'm the one that ran out of gas on the way down Pikes Peak.  But we did
have fun going up!
Dave
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 23 09:43:09 2003
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I have found that Novus, Inc makes two products, Fine scratch remover #2 and
plastic clean & shine #1. I purchased at a local Industrial plastic dist,
Royal Plastics. A 2 oz bottle of each goes a long way. www.novuspolish.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McClain" <kelly10@redacted.email>
To: "Corvette Restoration and Preservation List" <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 9:36 PM
Subject: scuffed tail lights lens


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> an overzealous buffer went onto the taillight lens and they are scuffed in
> several spots so they do not have their clear reflections of the plastic
> surface.  Can they be buffed with something to bring back the "clear
shine" of
> fresh plastic?  Kelly McClain 54.
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hi Dave, I do often look back, that was a fun trip.  I
last year just finished restoring my 59 to ncrs specs.
, you should call sometime and i'll show it to you
695/9010 daytime.  Take care Bill
--- David Dodson <Dgd3@redacted.email> wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Hi Bill,
> yes I'm the one that ran out of gas on the way down
> Pikes Peak.  But we did
> have fun going up!
> Dave
>
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Subject: Re: Removing Plate Holding Ash Tray & Shifter Cover
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>I'm planning carpet replacement in my 62 and understand there is a nut
>holding the ash tray / shifter cover.  I presume this must be removed when
>replacing the carpet over the transmission tunnel.  Is this difficult or 
>are
>there tricks to this with the transmission in the car?
>
>Any other things to know about carpet replacement would be helpful also.

Remove the 2 little screws holding the shift pattern plate on.  Underneath 
are 2 more larger screw-headed bolts.  They are what hold that console plate 
on.  Those 2 larger screws go into 2 special nuts on the underside of the 
transmission tunnel.  The usual Corvette vendors supply them ($6).  I 
believe those nuts somehow attach themselves to the underside so that they 
will not turn when you unscrew the bolts.  (Don't know if they work.  That 
job is scheduled for later this year.)  If you don't have those special 
nuts, you'll need a helper to hold regular nuts while you tighten or loosen 
the screws.  ("Looking for a helper to hold my nuts while I screw."  Good 
luck with that one.)

I didn't use any glue to hold my carpet in place.  Doesn't seem to need it.  
It's been years now.

Look at the AIM.  There are supposed to be 2 trim screws on the outboard 
sides of the foot wells.  My '62 only had 1 on the upper side.  Look for old 
screw holes in the positions indicated in the AIM when you get the old 
carpet out.  You can refind them with the new carpet in from the other 
(engine) side of the firewall.

_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Windshield Polishing?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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The windshield on my 1974 Coupe is still original (I think) and after 30
years it looks like it has been sandblasted.  It can be really tough to see
through when looking towards the sun.  Tried Glass Wax, Rainex, etc.
Except for being very clean and shiny now, it is still pretty beat-up.

I have seen a HD glass polishing system in Eastwood.  Has anyone had any
experience with this or other recommendations?

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS
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Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/23/2003 3:16:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lee.snyder@redacted.email writes:


> I have seen a HD glass polishing system in Eastwood.  Has anyone had any
> experience with this or other recommendations?
> 

Lee -

       The only solution to the "pock-marked" windshield syndrome is a new 
one; I have the same situation with the factory-original windshield in my '69 
Z/28, and I've elected to leave it alone and just live with it (the car is one 
of the few genuine GM-documented all-original, unrestored, unmodified, 
unmolested Z/28's left on the planet, and I'm going to keep it that way). If it was 
just a driver or a modified car, I'd put a new windshield in it.

       The Eastwood kit is for polishing out small areas, and it takes 
FOREVER, and still leaves optically-distorted areas (and those areas won't be 
cleared by the wiper blades, either).

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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hi guys. until today i thought that the best improvement i made to my 74 
coupe was the tach drive hei. couple of weeks ago i installed that blower motor 
that should increase air flow. wasnt too happy until i placed a hot water 
shut-off valve on the heater hose line. today it was 80 degrees and the temp blowing 
from the center console reached 28.9 degrees and stayed on average about 
37-41 degrees. no more burning foot, and no need for under carpet insulation 
unless i want to cut down on the road noise.  jeff.
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 23 16:01:17 2003
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Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
As a "rule of thumb", if you have a scratch/scratches, or pock marks large 
enough to "catch" your fingernail when you go over them, they cannot be polished 
out.  Why?  As you polish deeper, you're grinding the windshield like an 
optical lens, and you'll get tremendous distortion.  Also, because the glass is 
laminated, you have to be very careful with the heat generated in the polishing 
process.  You can delaminate the glass, discolor it, or actually break it due 
to the heat.   The "stuff" from Eastwood is something like selenium oxide??.   
 Messy too.  Chuck 
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 23 18:27:21 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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At 09:32 PM 06/22/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Did a parade today, overheated and the newly crowned town MISS, had to
bail to
>another car.  Car is stock, 6 Volt, a frequent driver; can an electric fan be
>installed to help cool in parade situations?  If so where to get such? 

Kelly,

It's worth keeping in mind that if everything on the '54's cooling system
is in good condition, the car won't overheat, even if idling.   While there
might be 6 Volt electric fans you could add, if it were my car I'd go thru
the entire cooling system first to make sure everything is as it should be.   

FWIW: I have a '54 that's been in the family for many decades.  In all the
time we've had it, and under all conditions imagineable, I've never seen
the temperature guage more than a needle's width above mid scale.

Good luck,

Jim
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 23 20:01:28 2003
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Subject: Gymkhana Suspension
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can anyone tell me if there is a way to determine if my 77 was made with the
optional Gymkhana option.  It has 18,000 miles, so I would think that a lot of
the suspension may still be intact.

I apreciate any help.  Thanks

George Curran
77 White
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John & Chuck

Thanks for your comments.  You have confirmed my suspicions on the glass
polishing kits.

I'm going to leave well enough alone for now.  Some cool morning in the
fall when the defroster comes on, a crack will appear.  Then, I'm forced to
replace the windshield.

ps - one of my neighbors kids said just drive west in the morning and east
in the evening all of the time!  Why didn't I think of that?

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS Member



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Snake488@redacted.email                      |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/23/2003 05:48 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  Re: Windshield Polishing?                                                    |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/23/2003 3:16:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lee.snyder@redacted.email writes:


> I have seen a HD glass polishing system in Eastwood.  Has anyone had any
> experience with this or other recommendations?
>

Lee -

       The only solution to the "pock-marked" windshield syndrome is a new
one; I have the same situation with the factory-original windshield in my
'69
Z/28, and I've elected to leave it alone and just live with it (the car is
one
of the few genuine GM-documented all-original, unrestored, unmodified,
unmolested Z/28's left on the planet, and I'm going to keep it that way).
If it was
just a driver or a modified car, I'd put a new windshield in it.

       The Eastwood kit is for polishing out small areas, and it takes
FOREVER, and still leaves optically-distorted areas (and those areas won't
be
cleared by the wiper blades, either).

John Hinckley
'67 300
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Has anyone had any experience with soldering or brazing a leak in the
aluminum fitting on an AC compressor hose?

The hose/manifold assembly on my 1974 Coupe (454) has a very slight kink in
the tubing at the compressor end of the VIR hose.  A vacuum/leak test
detected a small leak at the kink.  I have searched everywhere and can't
find a replacement hose, NOS or restoration.

Before I waste any R12 on system charging, I'm fixing every leak I can
find.  A new VIR will go in this week.  With this, and a hose repair, I
hope to have AC soon.

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Jim,

You may need to start with 600 grit wet sanding, then 1000 grit wet sanding
before buffing. If the scratches are really deep you may have to live with
it. The lower windshield molding on my '58 was scratched to the point that I
could not get them all out for fear of getting the area too thin. But they
are barely noticeable after buffing.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Jeff... I've done everything else to minimize heat and thought I had the
problem solved.  While I've had improvement, when it finally turned into
summer this week here in Michigan, I found my feet are still warm... just
warm, not hot anymore.

This week I'm installing a Stant hot water shutoff valve in each heater
hose.  I'm going to try and hide them down low under the evaporator core to
keep the stock look.  Although any NCRS judge will find them, I want to
enjoy driving this car also.

Soon I hope to have the same results you report.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Flaco1801@redacted.email                     |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/23/2003 05:58 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  shut off hot water                                                           |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
hi guys. until today i thought that the best improvement i made to my 74
coupe was the tach drive hei. couple of weeks ago i installed that blower
motor
that should increase air flow. wasnt too happy until i placed a hot water
shut-off valve on the heater hose line. today it was 80 degrees and the
temp blowing
from the center console reached 28.9 degrees and stayed on average about
37-41 degrees. no more burning foot, and no need for under carpet
insulation
unless i want to cut down on the road noise.  jeff.
-----------------------------------------------------
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John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The speaker grill should be about 1/16" higher than the pad. When I did my
'58 I did not bolt it to the dash, I simply pressed it into the dash pad (it
was a snug fit). Before installing the pad (with the grill in place) I put 4
10-32 x 1" screws in from the top and secured them with a nut, then when it
was time to install the speaker I left the nuts where they were and added 4
more. The end result was the speaker was the thickness of a 10-32 nut lower.
Worked for me.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee, I install one shut off valve last year in my '76 and it made a world of
difference.  I painted the valve flat black first.  I then used 2 6" wood
clamps to clamp the 3/4" heater hose, cut the hose with no water loss and
installed the valve with the stem down.  All I do now is reach under and
open or close as needed.

After speaking to several people, I elected to install just one valve on the
output side of the water pump.  I was told that the 2nd was not necessary.

This small mod greatly decreased the interior heat and increase the summer
driving comfort.

John Tambourine
'69, '76 & '78 SA Coupes

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:59 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: shut off hot water

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Jeff... I've done everything else to minimize heat and thought I had the
problem solved.  While I've had improvement, when it finally turned into
summer this week here in Michigan, I found my feet are still warm... just
warm, not hot anymore.

This week I'm installing a Stant hot water shutoff valve in each heater
hose.  I'm going to try and hide them down low under the evaporator core to
keep the stock look.  Although any NCRS judge will find them, I want to
enjoy driving this car also.

Soon I hope to have the same results you report.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Flaco1801@redacted.email                     |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/23/2003 05:58 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->

>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
  |
|
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email
|
  |       cc:
|
  |       Subject:  shut off hot water
|

>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
hi guys. until today i thought that the best improvement i made to my 74
coupe was the tach drive hei. couple of weeks ago i installed that blower
motor
that should increase air flow. wasnt too happy until i placed a hot water
shut-off valve on the heater hose line. today it was 80 degrees and the
temp blowing
from the center console reached 28.9 degrees and stayed on average about
37-41 degrees. no more burning foot, and no need for under carpet
insulation
unless i want to cut down on the road noise.  jeff.
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com

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From: "Ron Rusnak" <rrr@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee,
I remember seeing something in a vette magazine once about using Windex and
newspaper to clean a windshield. That's right, good old fashion newspaper.
Something about the lead in the print filling in abrasions and defects in
the glass. My wife laughs at me. Maybe a bunch of bull, but worth a try.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <lee.snyder@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John & Chuck
>
> Thanks for your comments.  You have confirmed my suspicions on the glass
> polishing kits.
>
> I'm going to leave well enough alone for now.  Some cool morning in the
> fall when the defroster comes on, a crack will appear.  Then, I'm forced
to
> replace the windshield.
>
> ps - one of my neighbors kids said just drive west in the morning and east
> in the evening all of the time!  Why didn't I think of that?
>
> Lee Snyder
> 1974 Coupe
> NCRS Member
>
>
>
> |---------+------------------------------------------------->
> |         |           Snake488@redacted.email                      |
> |         |           Sent by:                              |
> |         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
> |         |           e-resto.com                           |
> |         |                                                 |
> |         |                                                 |
> |         |           06/23/2003 05:48 PM                   |
> |         |           Please respond to crpl                |
> |         |                                                 |
> |---------+------------------------------------------------->
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
>   |
|
>   |       To:       crpl@redacted.email
|
>   |       cc:
|
>   |       Subject:  Re: Windshield Polishing?
|
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
>
>
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/23/2003 3:16:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lee.snyder@redacted.email writes:
>
>
> > I have seen a HD glass polishing system in Eastwood.  Has anyone had any
> > experience with this or other recommendations?
> >
>
> Lee -
>
>        The only solution to the "pock-marked" windshield syndrome is a new
> one; I have the same situation with the factory-original windshield in my
> '69
> Z/28, and I've elected to leave it alone and just live with it (the car is
> one
> of the few genuine GM-documented all-original, unrestored, unmodified,
> unmolested Z/28's left on the planet, and I'm going to keep it that way).
> If it was
> just a driver or a modified car, I'd put a new windshield in it.
>
>        The Eastwood kit is for polishing out small areas, and it takes
> FOREVER, and still leaves optically-distorted areas (and those areas won't
> be
> cleared by the wiper blades, either).
>
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
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> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John:

Thanks for the great tip on painting and location.  I usually just use vise
grips with a piece of terry cloth towel to clamp off the coolant flow.

Regarding whether to use one or two valves, common sense tells me just one
will work.  However, other posts here and other forums mention that there
is still heat transfer via the coolant on the return side.  I think I'm
going to install both and leave the return side open.  This may be just
enough heat to use the defroster or warm up my wife's feet occasionally.
If too hot, the return valve gets closed.

I'll use your suggestion on paint and location

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "John Tambourine"                     |
|         |           <jt@redacted.email>         |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 08:12 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to jt; Please respond  |
|         |           to crpl                               |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       <crpl@redacted.email>                                                    |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  RE: shut off hot water                                                       |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee, I install one shut off valve last year in my '76 and it made a world
of
difference.  I painted the valve flat black first.  I then used 2 6" wood
clamps to clamp the 3/4" heater hose, cut the hose with no water loss and
installed the valve with the stem down.  All I do now is reach under and
open or close as needed.

After speaking to several people, I elected to install just one valve on
the
output side of the water pump.  I was told that the 2nd was not necessary.

This small mod greatly decreased the interior heat and increase the summer
driving comfort.

John Tambourine
'69, '76 & '78 SA Coupes

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:59 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: shut off hot water

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Jeff... I've done everything else to minimize heat and thought I had the
problem solved.  While I've had improvement, when it finally turned into
summer this week here in Michigan, I found my feet are still warm... just
warm, not hot anymore.

This week I'm installing a Stant hot water shutoff valve in each heater
hose.  I'm going to try and hide them down low under the evaporator core to
keep the stock look.  Although any NCRS judge will find them, I want to
enjoy driving this car also.

Soon I hope to have the same results you report.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Flaco1801@redacted.email                     |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/23/2003 05:58 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->

>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
  |
|
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email
|
  |       cc:
|
  |       Subject:  shut off hot water
|

>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
hi guys. until today i thought that the best improvement i made to my 74
coupe was the tach drive hei. couple of weeks ago i installed that blower
motor
that should increase air flow. wasnt too happy until i placed a hot water
shut-off valve on the heater hose line. today it was 80 degrees and the
temp blowing
from the center console reached 28.9 degrees and stayed on average about
37-41 degrees. no more burning foot, and no need for under carpet
insulation
unless i want to cut down on the road noise.  jeff.
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 24 05:41:27 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
thats great I'll try it, thanks.
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Subject: RE: Windshield Polishing?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I doubt there is still lead in the print - due to lead poisoning, etc.  The
mild abrasive quality of the newsprint makes this an outstanding "cleaning
rag" for the W/S.  It polishes and cleans very good.

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Ron Rusnak
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:28 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee,
I remember seeing something in a vette magazine once about using Windex and
newspaper to clean a windshield. That's right, good old fashion newspaper.
Something about the lead in the print filling in abrasions and defects in
the glass. My wife laughs at me. Maybe a bunch of bull, but worth a try.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <lee.snyder@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: Windshield Polishing?


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John & Chuck
>
> Thanks for your comments.  You have confirmed my suspicions on the glass
> polishing kits.
>
> I'm going to leave well enough alone for now.  Some cool morning in the
> fall when the defroster comes on, a crack will appear.  Then, I'm forced
to
> replace the windshield.
>
> ps - one of my neighbors kids said just drive west in the morning and east
> in the evening all of the time!  Why didn't I think of that?
>
> Lee Snyder
> 1974 Coupe
> NCRS Member
>
>
>
> |---------+------------------------------------------------->
> |         |           Snake488@redacted.email                      |
> |         |           Sent by:                              |
> |         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
> |         |           e-resto.com                           |
> |         |                                                 |
> |         |                                                 |
> |         |           06/23/2003 05:48 PM                   |
> |         |           Please respond to crpl                |
> |         |                                                 |
> |---------+------------------------------------------------->
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
>   |
|
>   |       To:       crpl@redacted.email
|
>   |       cc:
|
>   |       Subject:  Re: Windshield Polishing?
|
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
>
>
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/23/2003 3:16:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lee.snyder@redacted.email writes:
>
>
> > I have seen a HD glass polishing system in Eastwood.  Has anyone had any
> > experience with this or other recommendations?
> >
>
> Lee -
>
>        The only solution to the "pock-marked" windshield syndrome is a new
> one; I have the same situation with the factory-original windshield in my
> '69
> Z/28, and I've elected to leave it alone and just live with it (the car is
> one
> of the few genuine GM-documented all-original, unrestored, unmodified,
> unmolested Z/28's left on the planet, and I'm going to keep it that way).
> If it was
> just a driver or a modified car, I'd put a new windshield in it.
>
>        The Eastwood kit is for polishing out small areas, and it takes
> FOREVER, and still leaves optically-distorted areas (and those areas won't
> be
> cleared by the wiper blades, either).
>
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
It seems that the heat from the engine will still travel (by convection?) to
any water left in the heater core from the manifold on the return hose side.
So, would two valves work better?  And how would you turn them off to remove
all the water in the core?  While the engine is running I would think you
shut the pump side, wait a second, then shut the return side.  Has anyone
messed with this or know if this would work?

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 5:30 AM
To: jt@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: shut off hot water


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John:

Thanks for the great tip on painting and location.  I usually just use vise
grips with a piece of terry cloth towel to clamp off the coolant flow.

Regarding whether to use one or two valves, common sense tells me just one
will work.  However, other posts here and other forums mention that there
is still heat transfer via the coolant on the return side.  I think I'm
going to install both and leave the return side open.  This may be just
enough heat to use the defroster or warm up my wife's feet occasionally.
If too hot, the return valve gets closed.

I'll use your suggestion on paint and location

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "John Tambourine"                     |
|         |           <jt@redacted.email>         |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 08:12 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to jt; Please respond  |
|         |           to crpl                               |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->

>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|
  |
|
  |       To:       <crpl@redacted.email>
|
  |       cc:
|
  |       Subject:  RE: shut off hot water
|

>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee, I install one shut off valve last year in my '76 and it made a world
of
difference.  I painted the valve flat black first.  I then used 2 6" wood
clamps to clamp the 3/4" heater hose, cut the hose with no water loss and
installed the valve with the stem down.  All I do now is reach under and
open or close as needed.

After speaking to several people, I elected to install just one valve on
the
output side of the water pump.  I was told that the 2nd was not necessary.

This small mod greatly decreased the interior heat and increase the summer
driving comfort.

John Tambourine
'69, '76 & '78 SA Coupes

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+jt=tambourineconsulting.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:59 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: shut off hot water

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Jeff... I've done everything else to minimize heat and thought I had the
problem solved.  While I've had improvement, when it finally turned into
summer this week here in Michigan, I found my feet are still warm... just
warm, not hot anymore.

This week I'm installing a Stant hot water shutoff valve in each heater
hose.  I'm going to try and hide them down low under the evaporator core to
keep the stock look.  Although any NCRS judge will find them, I want to
enjoy driving this car also.

Soon I hope to have the same results you report.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Flaco1801@redacted.email                     |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/23/2003 05:58 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->

>
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  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email
|
  |       cc:
|
  |       Subject:  shut off hot water
|

>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
hi guys. until today i thought that the best improvement i made to my 74
coupe was the tach drive hei. couple of weeks ago i installed that blower
motor
that should increase air flow. wasnt too happy until i placed a hot water
shut-off valve on the heater hose line. today it was 80 degrees and the
temp blowing
from the center console reached 28.9 degrees and stayed on average about
37-41 degrees. no more burning foot, and no need for under carpet
insulation
unless i want to cut down on the road noise.  jeff.
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Good morning,

 

I was concerned about the temp gauge on my car reading way too hot.  At
idle it was reading between 210 and 220.  When I was driving down the
freeway it got up to about 250 on the gauge.  However, it never seemed
to "overheat".

 

I used a temp gun last night and was reading 185-190 on the thermostat
housing when the gauge was reading about 215.  I checked other areas for
temperature.  I had the radiator cap off and shot the temperature of the
coolant while the car was running.  It was around 160.

 

I purchased a new sensor from Lectric Ltd. when I rebuilt the engine.
It seems I remember a thread some time ago about calibrating the
temperature gauge.  Can it be done or do I live with the high readings?

 

Thanks.

 

 

Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible

 

follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/> 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
> It seems that the heat from the engine will still travel (by
convection?) to
> any water left in the heater core from the manifold on the return hose
side.
> So, would two valves work better?  And how would you turn them off to
remove
> all the water in the core?  While the engine is running I would think
you
> shut the pump side, wait a second, then shut the return side.  Has
anyone
> messed with this or know if this would work?
>

A mechanical shutoff valve will work fine in either the return or the
supply hose.  Once the flow is stopped, it stops in both sides.
However, with my '78, it used to have a lot of heat in the cockpit when
I would get back in to return home after a stop at a destination.  This
is because it has a vacuum operated heater flow shutoff valve, as do
several other years of Corvette.  Unfortunately with a vacuum operated
shutoff valve, when the engine is shut off, the valve opens and hot
water from the engine will slowly circulate from the engine through the
heater core and back to the water pump/engine (convective flow), while
adding engine heat to the interior.  The best way to stop this is to add
a mechanical shutoff valve somewhere in the line to prevent residual
flow.  I even found a pull cable operated valve at my FLAPS so that I
don't have to open the hood if I need heat on a cold day.

Cheers,
Larry
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Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ...
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
LEE SNYDER Wrote:Has anyone had any experience with soldering or brazing a
leak in the
aluminum fitting on an AC compressor hose?

Lee,
    I had a "pin leak" in my aluminum and did a fix with JB Weld.  I do
refridgeration for a living and have found old JB to be invaluble in many a
situation.  You want to make sure that the area is very clean and rough it up
just slightly with 150 grit sandpaper where you need to adhere.  I like to let
the mix lay around on the piece of plastic I mix it on for awhile till it
starts to get a bit less runny. That way it will not sag off of the repair
sight. I also put vacume on the system right after I apply the JB. Otherwise
you might get a positive pressure in the system that pushes a bubble into your
repair. With negative pressure inside, the JB will be nice and solid. Make
sure to wait a full day before charging system up.  I don't use this method on
a "high side" leak. Don't know if it will hold there or not.  The other
alternative would of course be to replace with new. Hoses are a bit of a job
cause you need to remove the hood to get at the high side fitting on the
condenser. I did replace my hoses a few years back and then went ahead at that
time to do the change over to r134a. If you do the conversion, make sure that
you or a competent shop drain, then clean the entire system and compressor.
Don't want any particulate matter or old mineral oil in with the new oil and
r134.  If the area you wish to repair is actually crimped over, I would
replace as the vibrations will make it fail again, probably fairly soon as the
aluminum will fatigue and crack out at the crimp. Gluck !!

Greg Bares
74 L-82 Coupe
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Putting two valves is unecessary, one will do a perfect job. Sound like 
somebody's been reading too much Bubba's Law's of Physics advice on the 
internet.  ;-)

Mike
'73 with one valve and cool feet.
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Thanks Greg... I'm sticking with R12.  I still have 4 cans from the "old
days".

I use JB Weld for many things.  I'm not sure I have the confidence to risk
my R12 supply on it?  I have very limited knowledge on AC systems.  I do
believe the hose from the compressor to VIR is the high pressure side.  Can
the area of the kink (it is slight) be soldered?  With what?

I have not found a source for a new hose.  All vendors say it is
discontinued.  Apparently, the AC hose on 1974 models with 454 were unique
to that year.

Take off the hood???  I guess I haven't looked at the shop manual yet.  I
assumed I could reach into the hood opening or from underneath.  Oh well, I
need to detail that area of the engine compartment anyhow.

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS


|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "Greg Bares" <gsbares@redacted.email>  |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 09:41 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       <crpl@redacted.email>                                                    |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ...                                               |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
LEE SNYDER Wrote:Has anyone had any experience with soldering or brazing a
leak in the
aluminum fitting on an AC compressor hose?

Lee,
    I had a "pin leak" in my aluminum and did a fix with JB Weld.  I do
refridgeration for a living and have found old JB to be invaluble in many a
situation.  You want to make sure that the area is very clean and rough it
up
just slightly with 150 grit sandpaper where you need to adhere.  I like to
let
the mix lay around on the piece of plastic I mix it on for awhile till it
starts to get a bit less runny. That way it will not sag off of the repair
sight. I also put vacume on the system right after I apply the JB.
Otherwise
you might get a positive pressure in the system that pushes a bubble into
your
repair. With negative pressure inside, the JB will be nice and solid. Make
sure to wait a full day before charging system up.  I don't use this method
on
a "high side" leak. Don't know if it will hold there or not.  The other
alternative would of course be to replace with new. Hoses are a bit of a
job
cause you need to remove the hood to get at the high side fitting on the
condenser. I did replace my hoses a few years back and then went ahead at
that
time to do the change over to r134a. If you do the conversion, make sure
that
you or a competent shop drain, then clean the entire system and compressor.
Don't want any particulate matter or old mineral oil in with the new oil
and
r134.  If the area you wish to repair is actually crimped over, I would
replace as the vibrations will make it fail again, probably fairly soon as
the
aluminum will fatigue and crack out at the crimp. Gluck !!

Greg Bares
74 L-82 Coupe
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Hey, be nice!  I used to be Bubba in a previous life!  Then I joined this
list.

Seriously, I agree with the physics and you are right about the internet.
A previous post in this thread talked heat after engine shutoff when
equipped with the vacuum operated heater control valve.  The 2 valve
scenario may apply there.

Thanks

Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Mike Ward <mikey@redacted.email>              |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
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  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  Re: shut off hot water                                                       |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Putting two valves is unecessary, one will do a perfect job. Sound like
somebody's been reading too much Bubba's Law's of Physics advice on the
internet.  ;-)

Mike
'73 with one valve and cool feet.
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In a message dated 6/24/2003 8:33:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lee.snyder@redacted.email writes:


> The hose/manifold assembly on my 1974 Coupe (454) has a very slight kink in
> the tubing at the compressor end of the VIR hose.  A vacuum/leak test
> detected a small leak at the kink.  I have searched everywhere and can't
> find a replacement hose, NOS or restoration.

Lee -

       Soldering/brazing doesn't work well on aluminum - it needs to be 
heli-arc welded; try Four Seasons Radiator on 14 Mile Road across from the Oakland 
Mall; they've done custom aluminum heli-arc welding for me (Grand Sport 
radiator), and may be able to help you salvage your existing manifold assembly.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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>A previous post in this thread talked heat after engine shutoff when
>equipped with the vacuum operated heater control valve.  The 2 valve
>scenario may apply there.
>

Nope. The valves are designed to open when the vacuum source is removed. 
If you have a typical C3, the system raraely holds vacuum for more than 
a few minutes after the engine is shut down. This means the valve is 
then open to permit water flow. Under these circumstances, convection 
may allow hot water to enter the heater core. If you then start the car, 
you get a blast of hot air for a few seconds. As soon as the valve 
shuts, the heater core cools  and all is right again.

A single valve that maintains a positive shut off when the engine is 
stopped would not permit the above.

By the way, I was not referring to you as Bubba, but to some of the 
popular Forums on the internet. Seems they do more harm than good by 
perpetuating urban legends and promoting bad or even dangerous 
maintenance practices. My 2 cents

Mike
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Scott,

Yes, there has been a lot of discussions on this subject.  You should be
able to find more information on this subject in the archives

The short answer from me is:

I just went through this same scenario two weeks ago.  I measured the
resistance of a few sending units in a pan of water.   I measured the
temperature of the cooling system in the car.  I calculated what the
calibration resistance should be for each sending unit.  I had determined
how to add the extra resistance (but didn't like my design because I didn't
want to cut the wiring harness or jury-rig an extra connector).

Then, it was suggested that the Wells TU-5 sending unit ($5 at AutoZone) was
suppose to be pretty good for our application.  I figured that $5 was a
cheap investment and if it worked then I would not have to mess with the
wiring harness.

Well, the Wells TU-5 worked perfectly!

Now, you didn't state what year or motor your car was so, I can only state
that for my small block '63, it worked PERFECTLY.

Regards,

Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Scott Sparkman
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 7:25 AM
To: 'Corvette Restoration'
Subject: Temp Gauge Reading Error


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Good morning,



I was concerned about the temp gauge on my car reading way too hot.  At
idle it was reading between 210 and 220.  When I was driving down the
freeway it got up to about 250 on the gauge.  However, it never seemed
to "overheat".



I used a temp gun last night and was reading 185-190 on the thermostat
housing when the gauge was reading about 215.  I checked other areas for
temperature.  I had the radiator cap off and shot the temperature of the
coolant while the car was running.  It was around 160.



I purchased a new sensor from Lectric Ltd. when I rebuilt the engine.
It seems I remember a thread some time ago about calibrating the
temperature gauge.  Can it be done or do I live with the high readings?



Thanks.





Scott Sparkman

'72 LS5 convertible



follow my restoration at www.thespark.us <http://www.thespark.us/>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Mike... I'm sorry if I gave you the feeling I was upset on the Bubba
comment.  My response was just a poor attempt at some humor.

It is amazing what is written in some of the other forums.  I read them
just to get a laugh!

Your comments are deeply appreciated.

Lee


|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           Mike Ward <mikey@redacted.email>              |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 10:37 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  Re: shut off hot water                                                       |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>A previous post in this thread talked heat after engine shutoff when
>equipped with the vacuum operated heater control valve.  The 2 valve
>scenario may apply there.
>

Nope. The valves are designed to open when the vacuum source is removed.
If you have a typical C3, the system raraely holds vacuum for more than
a few minutes after the engine is shut down. This means the valve is
then open to permit water flow. Under these circumstances, convection
may allow hot water to enter the heater core. If you then start the car,
you get a blast of hot air for a few seconds. As soon as the valve
shuts, the heater core cools  and all is right again.

A single valve that maintains a positive shut off when the engine is
stopped would not permit the above.

By the way, I was not referring to you as Bubba, but to some of the
popular Forums on the internet. Seems they do more harm than good by
perpetuating urban legends and promoting bad or even dangerous
maintenance practices. My 2 cents

Mike
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From: "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>
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-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks Gary and John for the tip on the TU-5.  I'll try that out.  After
all I've spent, $5 is nothing.

To answer your question Gary, I have a 454 in a 72.  The old sensor did
not have the correct connector on it.  It was a button where the correct
one has a spade (or male) connector.

I don't know if this is one that Lectric Ltd has been advertising or
not.  I just called an ordered one for my car and engine.  They seemed
to be pretty accurate on wiring harnesses so I figured they would be
accurate on temp sensors as well.

I'll see what the TU-5 does.

Thanks again.


Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Cederman [mailto:cedermang@redacted.email] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 9:38 AM
To: scott@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: Temp Gauge Reading Error

Scott,

Yes, there has been a lot of discussions on this subject.  You should be
able to find more information on this subject in the archives

The short answer from me is:

I just went through this same scenario two weeks ago.  I measured the
resistance of a few sending units in a pan of water.   I measured the
temperature of the cooling system in the car.  I calculated what the
calibration resistance should be for each sending unit.  I had
determined
how to add the extra resistance (but didn't like my design because I
didn't
want to cut the wiring harness or jury-rig an extra connector).

Then, it was suggested that the Wells TU-5 sending unit ($5 at AutoZone)
was
suppose to be pretty good for our application.  I figured that $5 was a
cheap investment and if it worked then I would not have to mess with the
wiring harness.

Well, the Wells TU-5 worked perfectly!

Now, you didn't state what year or motor your car was so, I can only
state
that for my small block '63, it worked PERFECTLY.

Regards,

Gary
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
For what its worth...

My 1974 with 454 has the button connector on the temp sensor.

Lee Snyder



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "Scott Sparkman" <scott@redacted.email>  |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 10:58 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to scott; Please       |
|         |           respond to crpl                       |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       "'Corvette Restoration'" <crpl@redacted.email>                           |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  RE: Temp Gauge Reading Error                                                 |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks Gary and John for the tip on the TU-5.  I'll try that out.  After
all I've spent, $5 is nothing.

To answer your question Gary, I have a 454 in a 72.  The old sensor did
not have the correct connector on it.  It was a button where the correct
one has a spade (or male) connector.

I don't know if this is one that Lectric Ltd has been advertising or
not.  I just called an ordered one for my car and engine.  They seemed
to be pretty accurate on wiring harnesses so I figured they would be
accurate on temp sensors as well.

I'll see what the TU-5 does.

Thanks again.


Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible


-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Cederman [mailto:cedermang@redacted.email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 9:38 AM
To: scott@redacted.email; crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: Temp Gauge Reading Error

Scott,

Yes, there has been a lot of discussions on this subject.  You should be
able to find more information on this subject in the archives

The short answer from me is:

I just went through this same scenario two weeks ago.  I measured the
resistance of a few sending units in a pan of water.   I measured the
temperature of the cooling system in the car.  I calculated what the
calibration resistance should be for each sending unit.  I had
determined
how to add the extra resistance (but didn't like my design because I
didn't
want to cut the wiring harness or jury-rig an extra connector).

Then, it was suggested that the Wells TU-5 sending unit ($5 at AutoZone)
was
suppose to be pretty good for our application.  I figured that $5 was a
cheap investment and if it worked then I would not have to mess with the
wiring harness.

Well, the Wells TU-5 worked perfectly!

Now, you didn't state what year or motor your car was so, I can only
state
that for my small block '63, it worked PERFECTLY.

Regards,

Gary
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
My dog Bubba resents anyone using his name to refer to a not-very-good
mechanic.  Probably reminds him of his owner...  Thanks for your
consideration.  ;)  -John  '62
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
ordinary toothpaste will take care of whatever CAN be taken care of

bigger damages you need some kind of prof help
-- 
Christian Vinaa
1971 coupe 454 red
Plates:  BYE  BYE

email@redacted.email

...... Meanwhile, aunt Martha, having taken a tramp in the woods,
is lying in a ditch at the edge of town .........................
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Dogs are addressed as Mr. Bubba!

Lee Snyder



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "Turner, John A. MD"                  |
|         |           <JATurner@redacted.email>         |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 11:16 AM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       crpl@redacted.email                                                      |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  "Bubba" references                                                           |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
My dog Bubba resents anyone using his name to refer to a not-very-good
mechanic.  Probably reminds him of his owner...  Thanks for your
consideration.  ;)  -John  '62
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From: "Greg Bares" <gsbares@redacted.email>
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Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ...
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee,
    There are guys compitent to weld the aluminum. You'll have to check around
at some of the welding shops in your area  (if they have a good reputation) to
see if they can do it for you.  I have an old classmate that is very good at
aluminum welding. He's done some custom work for me before on aluminum gas
tanks.  I also have a good freind that owns a Vette restoration business. He
has alot of NOS stuff around there and I will check with him to see if he has
that hose set for a 74 BB.  Will let ya know if he does. Either way you are
gonna have to remove the hose assembly.  I would then also replace the o-rings
at all four ends, and while the system was open, I would replace the
dryer/accumulator and flush they entire system, compressor included.  Then
replace oil with new.  Doing the compressor requires removing/draining it as
well.  A new dryer/accum should cost about 85$ or so.  It's really worth doing
everything the right way if you are gonna put that "liquid Gold" back in. I've
heard of desperados paying up to $100 bucks a 12 oz can for it.  If I had only
known !!  I would have stock piled it when I was paying $12 for a 30 pounder.
Who'd have known!   Blessings !
Greg Bares
74 L-82 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 24 09:35:39 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hey, I think I've got an old can of "liquid gold" in my tool box.
Calling all desperados!

Scott Sparkman
'72 LS5 convertible

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+scott=thespark.us@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
Greg Bares
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 11:27 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ...

It's really worth doing
everything the right way if you are gonna put that "liquid Gold" back
in. I've
heard of desperados paying up to $100 bucks a 12 oz can for it.  If I
had only
known !!  
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks, you get a lead on a new hose just me know.  I have the new
dryer/accumulator (actually a Valve-In-Receiver on my car).  New O-rings
are always used.  To drain the compressor, just turn it on end?

With the VIR and compressor removed can I just blow compressed air through
the remaining lines?  If not, I go back to a friend at the local Chevrolet
Dealership.  He has been doing the vacuum tests and will re-charge the
system for me.  AC tools are one thing I don't have.

R12 Refrigerant and A.I.R. Pump Diverter Valves... who would have known
that these were investment grade commodities back in the seventies?

Lee Snyder



|---------+------------------------------------------------->
|         |           "Greg Bares" <gsbares@redacted.email>  |
|         |           Sent by:                              |
|         |           crpl-bounces+lee.snyder=gm.com@redacted.email|
|         |           e-resto.com                           |
|         |                                                 |
|         |                                                 |
|         |           06/24/2003 12:27 PM                   |
|         |           Please respond to crpl                |
|         |                                                 |
|---------+------------------------------------------------->
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |                                                                                              |
  |       To:       <crpl@redacted.email>                                                    |
  |       cc:                                                                                    |
  |       Subject:  RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ...                                               |
  >----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|




The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee,
    There are guys compitent to weld the aluminum. You'll have to check
around
at some of the welding shops in your area  (if they have a good reputation)
to
see if they can do it for you.  I have an old classmate that is very good
at
aluminum welding. He's done some custom work for me before on aluminum gas
tanks.  I also have a good freind that owns a Vette restoration business.
He
has alot of NOS stuff around there and I will check with him to see if he
has
that hose set for a 74 BB.  Will let ya know if he does. Either way you are
gonna have to remove the hose assembly.  I would then also replace the
o-rings
at all four ends, and while the system was open, I would replace the
dryer/accumulator and flush they entire system, compressor included.  Then
replace oil with new.  Doing the compressor requires removing/draining it
as
well.  A new dryer/accum should cost about 85$ or so.  It's really worth
doing
everything the right way if you are gonna put that "liquid Gold" back in.
I've
heard of desperados paying up to $100 bucks a 12 oz can for it.  If I had
only
known !!  I would have stock piled it when I was paying $12 for a 30
pounder.
Who'd have known!   Blessings !
Greg Bares
74 L-82 Coupe
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:24:24 -0500
From: steve meltzer <scheherazade@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The temp sensors on these cars are notoriously inaccurate, and I believe
this has been discussed on the list in the past. Anyhow, John H.
suggested a potentiometer to really get an accurate idea about the size
of the resistor one would need to solve the problem. I was too lazy to
do this, and luckily, John Dillman found an article somewhere in an old
"Restorer", I think it was, giving the correct resistor size. Anyhow, I
have it at home, and can tell you the size resistor if you want to do
what I did...wire it to the connector. Works great, but if you can just
get a TU-5, that will be easier. steve meltzer


-----------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Tue Jun 24 11:01:49 2003
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Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Lee,
    I will check with my friend on the NOS hose/manifold. To drain compressor,
invert it on a small size coffe can so the oil that runs out collects there.
You should measure how much comes out after it has drained for a few days (if
you don't flush the system with solvent). Blowing out the system with air is
not the way to clean er out.  You should use a pressurized system designed for
flushing out your a/c.  You could have it done at a shop or can buy the kit
for about $80 or so with enough solvent to do one system. If you don't flush
it, then you run the risk of having some old particulate matter and old shabby
oil mess things up for you. It's also easier to start with the system dry
because you will be able to add the right amout of oil from the get go. When
you put back together, make sure to have the right amout of oil in the system.
Too much is as bad as too little.  When you see all the things involved in
really doing the job right, you can come to an understanding of why it costs
what it does to have this work done in good shop.  Later.
Greg Bares
74 L-82 Coupe
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Subject: 1961 temp sending gauge and sending unit
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I have recently tried a sending unit purchased from Lectric LTD and have had 
my gauge rebuilt. It still reads 25 degrees to hot. An After market gauge 
reads correctly. What could I do next?

61 I drive it a lot and  long distances
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Subject: Re: 1961 temp sending gauge and sending unit
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/24/2003 4:57:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Winnsb@redacted.email 
writes:


> I have recently tried a sending unit purchased from Lectric LTD and have 
> had 
> my gauge rebuilt. It still reads 25 degrees to hot. An After market gauge 
> reads correctly. What could I do next?
> 

       Try a Wells TU-5 sending unit ($5.00 at AutoZone); they seem to 
provide more accurate readings than any of the other replacements. Another 
alternative is a used original from Mary Jo Rohner (www.vettegal.com) for about $40.00.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From: "Tom Russo" <hunt4cleanair@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:16:46 -0400
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Subject: RE: Gymkhana Suspension
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Check your the rear for a stabilizer bar...should be a 7/16"  That's a good
starting point...the front should be the monster 1 1/8" bar!  Let me know
what you find.

Regards,

Tom Russo
00 MY/BLK/RED
78 SA Bowtie


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email]On
Behalf Of George W. Curran
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 10:21 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Gymkhana Suspension


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Can anyone tell me if there is a way to determine if my 77 was made with the
optional Gymkhana option.  It has 18,000 miles, so I would think that a lot
of
the suspension may still be intact.

I apreciate any help.  Thanks

George Curran
77 White
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Subject: Re: AC Hose Fitting Repair
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>Has anyone had any experience with soldering or brazing a leak in the
>aluminum fitting on an AC compressor hose?
>
>The hose/manifold assembly on my 1974 Coupe (454) has a very slight kink in
>the tubing at the compressor end of the VIR hose.  A vacuum/leak test
>detected a small leak at the kink.  I have searched everywhere and can't
>find a replacement hose, NOS or restoration.
>
>Before I waste any R12 on system charging, I'm fixing every leak I can
>find.  A new VIR will go in this week.  With this, and a hose repair, I
>hope to have AC soon.
>

See if you can find a local and friendly heavy construction machinery place 
- bulldozers, graders, etc.  They have lots of experience making these kinds 
of hoses and installing ends.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>Thanks, you get a lead on a new hose just me know.  I have the new
>dryer/accumulator (actually a Valve-In-Receiver on my car).  New O-rings
>are always used.  To drain the compressor, just turn it on end?
>
>With the VIR and compressor removed can I just blow compressed air through
>the remaining lines?  If not, I go back to a friend at the local Chevrolet
>Dealership.  He has been doing the vacuum tests and will re-charge the
>system for me.  AC tools are one thing I don't have.
>
>R12 Refrigerant and A.I.R. Pump Diverter Valves... who would have known
>that these were investment grade commodities back in the seventies?
>

And seat belts, AM Wonderbar radios, factory 8 track tape decks, ignition 
shielding, bias ply tires, ....

The dealership has a machine that'll run a solvent through your system and 
recover it.  I guess you could do that yourself somehow, finishing up with 
compressed air.  Don't flush the compressor.  Just take it out of the car, 
and drain it every which way from Sunday.  Don't flush the new or old 
dryer/accumulator.  Most of the old oil will be in the compressor and the 
dryer/accumulator.  But there will still be some around elsewhere.  Most of 
the crud will be at the screen in front of the restrictor valve and in the 
old dryer/accumulator.  So with the compressor and dryer/accumulator out of 
the system, you'll be flushing lines, the condenser, and the evaporator.  
You need to be able to get some solvent in there and a definitive way to get 
it out.  The solvent needs to be something that dries without leaving a 
residue.  Mineral spirits to start.  Finish with lacquer thinner.  You'll 
need to figure a way to get the solvent to run through whatever portion of 
the system you're flushing, and then a positive way to make sure it's all 
out.

Or let Mr. Goodwrench and his purpose built machine do it.

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Subject: Re: AC Hose Fitting Repair
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http://www.delanet.com/~pparish/retrofit.htm

Go to the links page.  Might be some help there.

Roger Coen  67 with A/C


----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Ritchie
To: crpl@redacted.email
Cc: lee.snyder@redacted.email
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: AC Hose Fitting Repair


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>Has anyone had any experience with soldering or brazing a leak in the
>aluminum fitting on an AC compressor hose?
>
>The hose/manifold assembly on my 1974 Coupe (454) has a very slight kink in
>the tubing at the compressor end of the VIR hose.  A vacuum/leak test
>detected a small leak at the kink.  I have searched everywhere and can't
>find a replacement hose, NOS or restoration.
>
>Before I waste any R12 on system charging, I'm fixing every leak I can
>find.  A new VIR will go in this week.  With this, and a hose repair, I
>hope to have AC soon.
>

See if you can find a local and friendly heavy construction machinery place
- bulldozers, graders, etc.  They have lots of experience making these kinds
of hoses and installing ends.

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Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ... - One More Thing
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>Thanks, you get a lead on a new hose just me know.  I have the new
>dryer/accumulator (actually a Valve-In-Receiver on my car).  New O-rings
>are always used.  To drain the compressor, just turn it on end?
>
>With the VIR and compressor removed can I just blow compressed air through
>the remaining lines?  If not, I go back to a friend at the local Chevrolet
>Dealership.  He has been doing the vacuum tests and will re-charge the
>system for me.  AC tools are one thing I don't have.
>

I just remembered.  You're going to use R-12, right?  You don't have to be 
all that fussy about removing all the old oil.  The new oil will be the same 
as the old.  You just need to clean to get the crud out, so it doesn't 
destroy your compressor.  Flushing might be overkill.  If you replace the 
dryer/accumulator and the restrictor valve and blow some compressed air in 
those portions of the system you've opened up, you've pretty well cleaned up 
the system.

If you have access to a flushing machine, I'd use it.  Can't be too clean.  
But if not, or it's a real hardship, you should be OK with the method above.

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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	Can anyone on the list recommend a Corvette-savy restoration or glass
shop that can do an NCRS judging standards windshield installation?

	What I've learned the hard way is that getting it right to where the
windshield gasket doesn't leak and the reveal moulding clearances are up
to standards is not something which many people can do, or that most
regular glass shops are even willing to undertake.

	I've already tried it once myself and, if you use the proper type of
non-hardening bedding compound, its a messy job.

	Seems like most glass shops these days want to use the modern sealants
which, although they probably work great on modern cars, can really ruin
your day when they get into the retaining clips and keep them from
catching the lips on the reveal mouldings.

	I've already called OEM Glass in Bloomington, but, while they are still
selling dated Corvette glass, are unfortunately not doing installations
any longer.

	If anyone knows of a place that appreciates the NCRS standards and can
do an installation which meets them, then please let me know.

	I'm already planning a cross-country trip this summer after Carlise
anyway, so where they are doesn't matter--I'll go to anywhere and make
it a part of my trip if it means getting it done right.

		Thanks,

			Nick Sakellis
			'66 Coupe
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Subject: Re: 1961 temp sending gauge and sending unit
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I also bought a temperature sending unit from Lectric and had readings 
of 20 to 25 degrees to hot.  I then bought a 22 ohm resistor from radio 
shack, installed it behind the gauge and now my temperature readings are 
within 2 degrees (at 180 degrees).

Winnsb@redacted.email wrote:

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>I have recently tried a sending unit purchased from Lectric LTD and have had 
>my gauge rebuilt. It still reads 25 degrees to hot. An After market gauge 
>reads correctly. What could I do next?
>
>61 I drive it a lot and  long distances
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Roger Coen wrote...

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http://www.delanet.com/~pparish/retrofit.htm

Go to the links page.  Might be some help there.

Roger Coen  67 with A/C


THIS IS AN EXCELLENT WEBSITE ON AUTOMOTIVE AIR CONDITIONING.  BOOKMARK THIS
LINK.

Roger, thanks for the information.


Lee Snyder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Chris Ritchie:

Thanks for all of your suggestions.  As usual, I always benefit from
leveraging the knowledge of Corvette owners and enthusiasts on this list.
It's amazing how we can all share information within our individual areas
of expertise.  Together, I don't think there is any other resource with the
knowledge base we have here.

Yes, I am using R12.  Is the Restricter Valve part of the VIR Assembly?

Regarding flushing, I agree, with the VIR and compressor  removed,
compressed air is only clearing hoses/lines, condenser, and evaporator.  I
am going to clean this way and ask Mr. Goodwrench to do the flush when all
the leaks are finally fixed.  They will charge the system also.

Thanks again

Lee Snyder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Nick
May I recommend OEM Glass over in Bloomington IL.  Contact person is Dale.  I don't
have their number right now but I had him replace my windshield in my 66 Coupe and
he did a great job.  I drove over one night and met him at his shop about 10pm.  He
transported my wife and I to a local hotel and when it was done the next day around
noon, he came to the hotel and picked us up.  He has allot of experience at this
and I was satisfied with his work.  I'm sure you will be able to get his phone
number through information.
Usual disclaimer, I'm not connected in any way to the business, just a satisfied
customer.
Frank
66 Coupe

Nicolas Sakellis wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
>         Can anyone on the list recommend a Corvette-savy restoration or glass
> shop that can do an NCRS judging standards windshield installation?
>
>         What I've learned the hard way is that getting it right to where the
> windshield gasket doesn't leak and the reveal moulding clearances are up
> to standards is not something which many people can do, or that most
> regular glass shops are even willing to undertake.
>
>         I've already tried it once myself and, if you use the proper type of
> non-hardening bedding compound, its a messy job.
>
>         Seems like most glass shops these days want to use the modern sealants
> which, although they probably work great on modern cars, can really ruin
> your day when they get into the retaining clips and keep them from
> catching the lips on the reveal mouldings.
>
>         I've already called OEM Glass in Bloomington, but, while they are still
> selling dated Corvette glass, are unfortunately not doing installations
> any longer.
>
>         If anyone knows of a place that appreciates the NCRS standards and can
> do an installation which meets them, then please let me know.
>
>         I'm already planning a cross-country trip this summer after Carlise
> anyway, so where they are doesn't matter--I'll go to anywhere and make
> it a part of my trip if it means getting it done right.
>
>                 Thanks,
>
>                         Nick Sakellis
>                         '66 Coupe
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The Gymkhana suspension option (RPO FE7) Also included a 7 leaf spring as
opposed to the 9 leaf spring used on the base suspension.

Norval Wallen
Product Support Technical Specialist
F/A-18 Training Systems Management
norval.wallen@redacted.email
(314) 233-8635
(314) 232-4476 (FAX)
Mail Code S270-3200
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
It always amazed me that the "special" suspension would have less leaves than the "std." one. Mark 66 conv.
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:50:30
From: "Wallen, Norval" <norval.wallen@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>The Gymkhana suspension option (RPO FE7) Also included a 7 leaf spring as
>opposed to the 9 leaf spring used on the base suspension.
>
>Norval Wallen
>Product Support Technical Specialist
>F/A-18 Training Systems Management
>norval.wallen@redacted.email
>(314) 233-8635
>(314) 232-4476 (FAX)
>Mail Code S270-3200
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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>



Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
http://www.eudoramail.com
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What's the trick to checking the differential fluid on a 78...drop the
carrier?

Regards,

Tom Russo
00 MY/BLK/RED
78 SA Bowtie
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 6/25/2003 4:40:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hunt4cleanair@redacted.email writes:


> What's the trick to checking the differential fluid on a 78...drop the
> carrier?

Tom -

       Piece of cake if you drop the upper spare tire tub - otherwise, you 
need a LONG arm  :-)

John Hinckley
'67 300
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
At 04:39 PM 6/25/03 -0400, Tom Russo wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>What's the trick to checking the differential fluid on a 78...drop the
>carrier?
>
>Regards,
>
>Tom Russo
>00 MY/BLK/RED
>78 SA Bowtie
==========================================================================Hi 
Tom & the group,

         It's not that hard if the car is on a lift, but it does help to be 
a contortionist.


                                         RON....67 435 HP

  ***********************************************************
                     RON GOLDSTEIN--KA2IIA
                      PUTNAM VALLEY, N.Y.
                             ******
           STAY YOUNG---DRIVE A VINTAGE 427 CORVETTE.
    KEEP YOUR MIND ACTIVE--BECOME AN AMATEUR RADIO OPERATOR.
       REMEMBER, THERE ARE NO STRANGERS IN AMATEUR RADIO,
              JUST FRIENDS WE HAVE NOT YET MET.
          solidgold@redacted.email****ka2iia@redacted.email
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Subject: loose 1/2 shaft/ differential
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Brought my 79 coupe in to get new u-joints on the 1/2 shafts because of a
tight rubbing sound coming from rear end. My friendly neighborhood repair shop
said that the yoke with the 1/2 shaft attached , on the driver's side ,is
moving into the diffential far enough that the u-joint,u bolt nuts are
rubbing against the differential.

What gave loose?  How do I go about fixing this problem?  

My guys don't have the experience or the special tools to do the job, so I
will
have to bring it to another shop.  I would like to have enough scoop about
this project so I won't get burned.   All and any info will really help....
Thanks.........the Yooper 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Can someone tell me what the following GM ring and pinion is used for?
The ring gear has part #3817778 and the pinion has #3884935 on it.

Thanks,

Ted
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Subject: Re: loose 1/2 shaft/ differential
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Dan,

The end of the yoke has worn off more than likely.  You don't need any special
tools to repair this.  The main problem with this is that the bolts can wear
the lip that holds the seal.  When the yoke is removed make sure you still
have the 1/8" step where the side seal is inserted.  Compare it to the other
side if you need to see what I'm talking about.

The main goal is to remove the rear end cover to make the repair.  It is not a
hard job and I'm sure you're local shop could do this.   Once the cover is off
and you look inside you will see that the yoke is held in by a snap ring.
(Even *Bubba has snap ring pliers).  More than likely this snap ring is gone
from the end of the yoke due to the groove it rides in being worn off.    You
will probably need a good yoke too!  The snap ring keeps the yoke from coming
out of the rear end and the differential center pin keeps if from going in to
far.  But seems strange that this would be on the LH side.  Most of the time
we see this it is on the RH or main drive side of the rear end.  It would be
real smart of you to remove the rear end so that you can inspect the center
pin, the other side yoke ect.  If the end of the yoke is gone, then there will
probably be some shavings in the oil too!

While this is being done to the rear end it would be a real smart move to
replace the side yoke seals and even the pinion seal if the rear end is
removed.  The labor to do this job is 4 hours in a and out, new yoke and seals
installed!  So use this to base what the shop is going to charge you.

But, all the local shop needs to do is get the cover off.  I'm sure they have
the tools to do this job!

 *A reference to Bubba was included in this reply.  It was in no way an
attempt to demoralize a poor dog with regard to the intellectual brain level
comparison between Bubba the local shade tree mechanic and Bubba the Doc's
Dog.   Any implied comparison is strictly coincidental.
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Subject: Re: C3 Differential Fluid Check
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Tom,

You can check the level by taking the plug out of it and sticking a small
finger inside the hole and feel for the fluid.....  My fingers are to large to
do this so be careful.  You can remove it with a oil pump thru the fill hole
too.  We use 2.5 fluids and 1 additive for the posi units.

1052358 additive
1052271 lube
When you buy this make sure they give you the nipple and the hose that comes
in the box with it too.

e
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From: "Tom Russo" <hunt4cleanair@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the tips!

Regards,

Tom Russo
00 MY/BLK/RED
78 SA Bowtie


-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+hunt4cleanair=earthlink.net@redacted.email]On
Behalf Of Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 10:55 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: C3 Differential Fluid Check


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Tom,

You can check the level by taking the plug out of it and sticking a small
finger inside the hole and feel for the fluid.....  My fingers are to large
to
do this so be careful.  You can remove it with a oil pump thru the fill hole
too.  We use 2.5 fluids and 1 additive for the posi units.

1052358 additive
1052271 lube
When you buy this make sure they give you the nipple and the hose that comes
in the box with it too.

e
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Subject: Re: loose 1/2 shaft/ differential/side yokes for sale
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Dan, I just had this job done on my 66. It's exactly as described. I'm getting ready to list 2 side yokes for auction on eBay. They are the threaded type, which is the type I think you need, and I only want what I paid for them at Carlisle. If interested and we can make a deal, I won't list them. Contact me offlist if interested. Mark 66 conv.
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:45:21
From: "Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service" <WILLCOX@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Dan,
>
>The end of the yoke has worn off more than likely.  You don't need any special
>tools to repair this.  The main problem with this is that the bolts can wear
>the lip that holds the seal.  When the yoke is removed make sure you still
>have the 1/8" step where the side seal is inserted.  Compare it to the other
>side if you need to see what I'm talking about.
>
>The main goal is to remove the rear end cover to make the repair.  It is not a
>hard job and I'm sure you're local shop could do this.   Once the cover is off
>and you look inside you will see that the yoke is held in by a snap ring.
>(Even *Bubba has snap ring pliers).  More than likely this snap ring is gone
>from the end of the yoke due to the groove it rides in being worn off.    You
>will probably need a good yoke too!  The snap ring keeps the yoke from coming
>out of the rear end and the differential center pin keeps if from going in to
>far.  But seems strange that this would be on the LH side.  Most of the time
>we see this it is on the RH or main drive side of the rear end.  It would be
>real smart of you to remove the rear end so that you can inspect the center
>pin, the other side yoke ect.  If the end of the yoke is gone, then there will
>probably be some shavings in the oil too!
>
>While this is being done to the rear end it would be a real smart move to
>replace the side yoke seals and even the pinion seal if the rear end is
>removed.  The labor to do this job is 4 hours in a and out, new yoke and seals
>installed!  So use this to base what the shop is going to charge you.
>
>But, all the local shop needs to do is get the cover off.  I'm sure they have
>the tools to do this job!
>
> *A reference to Bubba was included in this reply.  It was in no way an
>attempt to demoralize a poor dog with regard to the intellectual brain level
>comparison between Bubba the local shade tree mechanic and Bubba the Doc's
>Dog.   Any implied comparison is strictly coincidental.
>-----------------------------------------------------
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>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>



Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
http://www.eudoramail.com
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 26 06:19:17 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Folks, I have another issue I'd like some help with. I've consulted the ST-12, 
but don't seem to  be getting the results I want. The clutch pedal on my 62 
does not return to the "stop" bumper under the dash, but hangs about 3/4 inch 
below.  The chirping noise I was previously chasing seems to be related to this 
adjustment, in that if the pedal is "pulled up" to the stop or the clutch is 
depressed the noise stops. This seems to indicate that the throwout bearing 
isn't retracted all the way when the pedal is released(up).  The ST-12 
describes two adjustments. One is the length of the rod between the belcrank("z-
bar" in common reference)and the clutch throwout fork.  That one isn't too hard 
to figure out and follow but hasn't solved the problem.  The second adjustment 
relates to the tension on the over center spring which should be able to be 
adjusted by moving the bellcrank arm  extension bracket that the spring links 
to through an arc to increase the tension on the spring by effectively 
lengthening the arm and stretching the spring. I've been unable to move the 
adjustment bracket after loosening the two screws.  Is there a "trick" to this 
adjustment that I am missing?? I've taken all the slop out of the linkage by 
renewing the bushing and bolt that connects the clutch rod to the bellcrank and 
adjusted the rod...so the only other adjustment I can make is the over-center 
spring tension. Did I miss something???

As always any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hal Emrich
62 340
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From: "Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service" <WILLCOX@redacted.email>
To: <66stingray@redacted.email>, <crpl@redacted.email>
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Subject: Re: loose 1/2 shaft/ differential/side yokes for sale
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
>From the way he described the bolt that was hitting the seal, I would guess he
has the U-bolts (standard) over the Threaded (heavy duty) design.  The only
thing he would need to buy if not with the yokes you have would be the caps
for the yokes and the bolts.  If he has the threaded design then the set you
have would work.


Brought my 79 coupe in to get new u-joints on the 1/2 shafts because of a
tight rubbing sound coming from rear end. My friendly neighborhood repair
shop
said that the yoke with the 1/2 shaft attached , on the driver's side ,is
moving into the diffential far enough that the u-joint,u bolt nuts are
rubbing against the differential.


e
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Folks !
	My steering column is in need of a repaint, the hom button and top of the
column exhibits evidence of being attacked by a key ring made of ravenous
paint eating beavers. So do I need to remove the whole column, or do the
covers come off somehow ?  Anyone done this before ?
Thanks !
Greg Greene ISP VE6CSQ
Programmer Analyst ITS



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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The gears you have are listed as below.
66-67 series 10 (truck), G-10-20 (Van)  w/3.73 ratio. Oh exc. 4/wd
3817778 ring
3884935 pinion
The combo original GM p/n was 3887831


e
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
> The Gymkhana suspension option (RPO FE7)... included a 7 leaf spring
as
> opposed to the 9 leaf spring used on the base suspension. (from
Norval)
............
> It always amazed me that the "special" suspension would have less
leaves than the "std." one. (from Mark 66 conv.)
>

It does make sense when one realizes that the 7-leaf spring uses thicker
leaves than does the 9-leaf spring.  Since the spring rate of a leaf
increases by the cube of its thickness, a 7-leaf spring is a lot stiffer
than a 9-leaf spring of thinner leaves.

Cheers,
Larry
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Larry, thanks for the explanation. Mark 66 conv.
--

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:57:34
From: "Laurence Walker" <larrywalk@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Cc: 

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>> The Gymkhana suspension option (RPO FE7)... included a 7 leaf spring
>as
>> opposed to the 9 leaf spring used on the base suspension. (from
>Norval)
>............
>> It always amazed me that the "special" suspension would have less
>leaves than the "std." one. (from Mark 66 conv.)
>>
>
>It does make sense when one realizes that the 7-leaf spring uses thicker
>leaves than does the 9-leaf spring.  Since the spring rate of a leaf
>increases by the cube of its thickness, a 7-leaf spring is a lot stiffer
>than a 9-leaf spring of thinner leaves.
>
>Cheers,
>Larry
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
>http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>Send other comments or questions about this list to
>John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
>



Need a new email address that people can remember
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
What year is your car?


"Greene, Greg" wrote:
> 
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hi Folks !
>         My steering column is in need of a repaint, the hom button and top of the
> column exhibits evidence of being attacked by a key ring made of ravenous
> paint eating beavers. So do I need to remove the whole column, or do the
> covers come off somehow ?  Anyone done this before ?
> Thanks !
> Greg Greene ISP VE6CSQ
> Programmer Analyst ITS
> 
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If your car is a mid-year, then the best way to repaint it is to remove the
column completely.

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Greene, Greg
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 8:21 AM
To: Crpl (E-mail)
Subject: Painting the Steering column


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Folks !
	My steering column is in need of a repaint, the hom button and top of the
column exhibits evidence of being attacked by a key ring made of ravenous
paint eating beavers. So do I need to remove the whole column, or do the
covers come off somehow ?  Anyone done this before ?
Thanks !
Greg Greene ISP VE6CSQ
Programmer Analyst ITS



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named
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HEREBY NOTIFIED that any use, distribution, or copying of this communication
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have
received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
telephone and then destroy or delete this communication, or return it to us
by
mail if requested by us. The City of Calgary thanks you for your attention
and
cooperation.
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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From: "Len Palmer" <LPalmer@redacted.email>
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Subject: Grinding noise, turning left, rear end sound, maybe, 64
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
On my 64 roadster, I get a grinding, rubbing noise as I turn left
occassionally.  The noise lasts for a few blocks. Wheel bearings,
differential, drive train, no clue as to where the noise is coming from.  I
can't even notice if the noise is coming from one side vs. the other. When I
turn the opposite direction or drive in a straight line, no noise.  If I drive
super slow around the turn, I don't hear anything.

The transmission is automatic.

When I bought the car, I had the noise and the company I bought it from
brought in a Chevy factory person.  He said that it comes from the
differential and added Limited Slip Axle lub.  I don't think the noise went
away - been a couple of years.

I would appreciate ideas about where to look and how to isolate.  Should I add
more Limited Slip Axle lub periodically?

Len Palmer
64 Roadster
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Subject: Re: Grinding noise, turning left, rear end sound, maybe, 64 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Len,

When the clutch's are sticking the car will normally do what we call "duck
waddle" around the turn.  I would check the yokes at the rear end.  Look and
see if they are rubbing the side of the pumpkin.  They will show a sign of
rubbing if they are. Look at the ends of the bolt too!

If nothing there then you might want to pull out the 1/2 shafts and check the
clearence on the rear wheel bearings.  Most of the time when you have a
bearing problem it will be constant noise and not coming in and out.

e
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Just to add to the reply, also check for proper lubrication.  My posi 
rear end would make a grinding noise on a left turn, which got louder 
and louder the sharper the turn.  Turns out I had a leak and my diff was 
bone dry.

Joe


Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service wrote:

>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Len,
>
>When the clutch's are sticking the car will normally do what we call "duck
>waddle" around the turn.  I would check the yokes at the rear end.  Look and
>see if they are rubbing the side of the pumpkin.  They will show a sign of
>rubbing if they are. Look at the ends of the bolt too!
>
>If nothing there then you might want to pull out the 1/2 shafts and check the
>clearence on the rear wheel bearings.  Most of the time when you have a
>bearing problem it will be constant noise and not coming in and out.
>
>e
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Has anyone had any experience with Allen's Corvette Exhaust Systems for
Logansport, Indiana?  Has anyone ever had them do an installation?  Was
it satisfactory?  I've seen their advertisements in the NCRS Driveline
and was thinking of having them replace my deteriorating system.  Was
the original exhaust system welded where the different lengths of
exhaust pipe connect or did the the General just use the clamps?
Your input is appreciated.
Thanks
Frank
66 Coupe
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Thread-Topic: Re: Painting the steering column
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From: "Greene, Greg" <Greg.Greene@redacted.email>
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Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
Message: 6

If your car is a mid-year, then the best way to repaint it is to remove the
column completely.

Gary


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-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+cedermang=msei-co.com@redacted.email]On Behalf
Of Greene, Greg
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 8:21 AM
To: Crpl (E-mail)
Subject: Painting the Steering column


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Folks !
	My steering column is in need of a repaint, the hom button and top of the
column exhibits evidence of being attacked by a key ring made of ravenous
paint eating beavers. So do I need to remove the whole column, or do the
covers come off somehow ?  Anyone done this before ?
Thanks !


Yep its the mid year of the midyears - a 75 Coupe
So it looks like pull the coumn out ?
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I have used Allen"s for years on my cars and friends from Corvettes to 
Camaros wih no problem. I believe the original pipes were welded after  the head 
pipe.

  Rich  66 L-79 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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>Yes, I am using R12.  Is the Restricter Valve part of the VIR Assembly?
>
>Regarding flushing, I agree, with the VIR and compressor  removed,
>compressed air is only clearing hoses/lines, condenser, and evaporator.  I
>am going to clean this way and ask Mr. Goodwrench to do the flush when all
>the leaks are finally fixed.  They will charge the system also.
>

I believe the restrictor valve is part of the VIR.  But I'm not familar with 
this system, so I'm not sure.  Is the VIR immediately upstream of the 
evaporator?  If so, then yes, it is part of the VIR.

With the VIR, compressor, and dryer/accumulator out, running compressed air 
through the hoses/lines, condensor, and evaporator, will get your system 
pretty clean and oil free.  It'll be perfect if you have Mr. Goodwrench 
flush after that.  Add the correct amount of oil, pull a good long vacuum, 
and you're ready to charge.

You realize that you've done and spent 90% of the work and cost if you 
wanted to convert to R-134a now.  You could sell those 4 cans of R-12 and 
put some kid through a year of college.  But you didn't ask that question.

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Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree mechanic's welding set up. 
  I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my life.  Never knew anyone 
who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut off the old, and weld a 
new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult time finding somebody I 
would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would charge even if I could 
find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now that I might use someday.  
I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was considering remodeling my 
bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have borrowed it half a dozen 
times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the purchase.  Have a 220vac outlet 
(for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the driveway.

1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost?  I mean everything I'd 
need, starting from scratch.
2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old one; grind what's left 
to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can master well enough to 
weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
4. Any recommendations on what to buy?

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From: "sbrown3" <sbrown3@redacted.email>
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Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:50:32 -0700
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Subject: RE: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The price of whatever a reputable welder in your area would charge, would be
much less than what a complete setup would cost.  But, the big question: how
long will you have to practice before you feel competent enough to tackle
this job?  Since you will want it to look like the original, it is something
that requires a certain amount of experience and skill.  Since you have
never welded and may never need a welder again, I would find someone in your
area who will do it for you.  I am like you in that I will buy the tool if I
think I will use it again.  It sounds like from your post that you may never
use this welder again.  And it takes practice to make good, clean welds.

Something to think about as you make your decision.

BTW - If I owned a '62, I would only attempt this if I were a welder by
trade.

My .02 cents as someone has mentioned before.

Steve

'74 ragtop.

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
Christopher Ritchie
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 3:23 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree mechanic's welding set up.
  I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my life.  Never knew anyone
who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut off the old, and weld a
new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult time finding somebody I
would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would charge even if I could
find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now that I might use someday.
I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was considering remodeling my
bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have borrowed it half a dozen
times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the purchase.  Have a 220vac outlet
(for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the driveway.

1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost?  I mean everything I'd
need, starting from scratch.
2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old one; grind what's left
to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can master well enough to
weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
4. Any recommendations on what to buy?

_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: C1-Clutch linkage adjustment(s) 1962
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
The lower bolt is the pivot and the upper bolt is the clamp. the top slot on
the Y bracket is slotted. Slightly loosen both bolts and using a 12"
adjustable wrench(Crescent) on the top of the Y bracket that has the pin
attached that the spring attaches to using a oval bracket, rotate the
bracket towards the firewall. As you go past center, the pedal should move
upwards and contact the bumper.
----- Original Message -----
From: <hemrich@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 8:18 AM
Subject: C1-Clutch linkage adjustment(s) 1962


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Folks, I have another issue I'd like some help with. I've consulted the
ST-12,
> but don't seem to  be getting the results I want. The clutch pedal on my
62
> does not return to the "stop" bumper under the dash, but hangs about 3/4
inch
> below.  The chirping noise I was previously chasing seems to be related to
this
> adjustment, in that if the pedal is "pulled up" to the stop or the clutch
is
> depressed the noise stops. This seems to indicate that the throwout
bearing
> isn't retracted all the way when the pedal is released(up).  The ST-12
> describes two adjustments. One is the length of the rod between the
belcrank("z-
> bar" in common reference)and the clutch throwout fork.  That one isn't too
hard
> to figure out and follow but hasn't solved the problem.  The second
adjustment
> relates to the tension on the over center spring which should be able to
be
> adjusted by moving the bellcrank arm  extension bracket that the spring
links
> to through an arc to increase the tension on the spring by effectively
> lengthening the arm and stretching the spring. I've been unable to move
the
> adjustment bracket after loosening the two screws.  Is there a "trick" to
this
> adjustment that I am missing?? I've taken all the slop out of the linkage
by
> renewing the bushing and bolt that connects the clutch rod to the
bellcrank and
> adjusted the rod...so the only other adjustment I can make is the
over-center
> spring tension. Did I miss something???
>
> As always any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Hal Emrich
> 62 340
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Hi all--
Recently I had my wiper door grill (I think thats what its called) off my 72 
coupe to clean the wiper well. When I went to reinstall the grill, I noticed 3 
or 4 screws had stripped out, and no longer held the grill tightly to the 
car. I couldn't set the grill gap between the wiper door and the hood, because 
the screws wouldn't hold it in position. I bought some brass inserts and some SS 
screws and developed my own repair for this delimma. I drilled out the 
stripped holes, pressed in the brass inserts, and reinstalled the grill with the new 
screws, and it worked like a charm! I have a few of these parts left over. If 
anyone else with a 68-72 Vette has the same problem, email me off the board. 

George Romano
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Subject: Re: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
If the battery tray is the only welding you have in mind at this time, It
would not be very cost-effective to buy a welder. A nice little Wire feed
welder will be about $200, another $150 for an auto-dimming helmet (a real
necessity, especially for a beginner), gloves, wire, etc and you can get
$500 invested real fast. A good welder would only charge $35-$50 dollars for
this repair in my part of the country, so do the math.
  Don't get me wrong, I am a tool hound myself and own a couple of welders,
but I have taken classes at the local community college and use my welders a
pretty fair amount. For me it is great to have a welder at my disposal when
I need it, and not have to run into town to get something welded. It is
really a pain when you have to load a chassis up on a trailer and haul it
somewhere to get welding done. As far as clean welds, just look at the
quality of the welds on your C1. I am firmly convinced that the welders
stayed drunk a good portion of the time! The real hard part is making the
new welds look as rough as the originals! LOL
                    Regards, John McGraw
----- Original Message -----
From: "sbrown3" <sbrown3@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:50 PM
Subject: RE: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> The price of whatever a reputable welder in your area would charge, would
be
> much less than what a complete setup would cost.  But, the big question:
how
> long will you have to practice before you feel competent enough to tackle
> this job?  Since you will want it to look like the original, it is
something
> that requires a certain amount of experience and skill.  Since you have
> never welded and may never need a welder again, I would find someone in
your
> area who will do it for you.  I am like you in that I will buy the tool if
I
> think I will use it again.  It sounds like from your post that you may
never
> use this welder again.  And it takes practice to make good, clean welds.
>
> Something to think about as you make your decision.
>
> BTW - If I owned a '62, I would only attempt this if I were a welder by
> trade.
>
> My .02 cents as someone has mentioned before.
>
> Steve
>
> '74 ragtop.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
> [mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
> Christopher Ritchie
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 3:23 PM
> To: crpl@redacted.email
> Subject: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
>
>
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree mechanic's welding set
up.
>   I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my life.  Never knew
anyone
> who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut off the old, and weld a
> new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult time finding somebody I
> would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would charge even if I could
> find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now that I might use someday.
> I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was considering remodeling
my
> bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have borrowed it half a
dozen
> times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the purchase.  Have a 220vac
outlet
> (for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the driveway.
>
> 1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost?  I mean everything I'd
> need, starting from scratch.
> 2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old one; grind what's left
> to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
> 3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can master well enough to
> weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
> 4. Any recommendations on what to buy?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
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> -----------------------------------------------------
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> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
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> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 26 18:49:46 2003
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From: Mike Przano <mike_vette61@redacted.email>
To: crpl@redacted.email, crpl@redacted.email
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Subject: Re: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
You could always RENT a welder if you are like alot of
us DIY's just so you don't have to pay the other guy
to do it.  Be careful of the metal fuel line which
will be in close proximity to your welds. Wrap a wet
rag around it to be safe.
Mike

 --- Christopher Ritchie <critchie1@redacted.email>
wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree
> mechanic's welding set up. 
>   I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my
> life.  Never knew anyone 
> who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut
> off the old, and weld a 
> new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult
> time finding somebody I 
> would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would
> charge even if I could 
> find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now
> that I might use someday.  
> I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was
> considering remodeling my 
> bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have
> borrowed it half a dozen 
> times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the
> purchase.  Have a 220vac outlet 
> (for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the
> driveway.
> 
> 1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost? 
> I mean everything I'd 
> need, starting from scratch.
> 2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old
> one; grind what's left 
> to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
> 3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can
> master well enough to 
> weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
> 4. Any recommendations on what to buy?
> 
>
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> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Thu Jun 26 18:50:30 2003
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From: Mike Przano <mike_vette61@redacted.email>
To: crpl@redacted.email, crpl@redacted.email
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Subject: Re: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
You could always RENT a welder if you are like alot of
us DIY's just so you don't have to pay the other guy
to do it.  Be careful of the metal fuel line which
will be in close proximity to your welds. Wrap a wet
rag around it to be safe.
Mike

 --- Christopher Ritchie <critchie1@redacted.email>
wrote:
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List
> (CRPL)
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree
> mechanic's welding set up. 
>   I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my
> life.  Never knew anyone 
> who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut
> off the old, and weld a 
> new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult
> time finding somebody I 
> would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would
> charge even if I could 
> find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now
> that I might use someday.  
> I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was
> considering remodeling my 
> bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have
> borrowed it half a dozen 
> times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the
> purchase.  Have a 220vac outlet 
> (for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the
> driveway.
> 
> 1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost? 
> I mean everything I'd 
> need, starting from scratch.
> 2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old
> one; grind what's left 
> to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
> 3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can
> master well enough to 
> weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
> 4. Any recommendations on what to buy?
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months
> FREE*  
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>
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> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com


=====


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Subject: Re: Grinding noise, turning left, rear end sound, maybe, 64   
  roadster
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
GM additive "Goodwrench Limited Slip Differential Additive "
             #1052358


----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Lewis" <joe@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: Grinding noise, turning left, rear end sound, maybe, 64
roadster


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Just to add to the reply, also check for proper lubrication.  My posi
> rear end would make a grinding noise on a left turn, which got louder
> and louder the sharper the turn.  Turns out I had a leak and my diff was
> bone dry.
>
> Joe
>
>
> Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service wrote:
>
> >The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> >-----------------------------------------------------
> >Len,
> >
> >When the clutch's are sticking the car will normally do what we call
"duck
> >waddle" around the turn.  I would check the yokes at the rear end.  Look
and
> >see if they are rubbing the side of the pumpkin.  They will show a sign
of
> >rubbing if they are. Look at the ends of the bolt too!
> >
> >If nothing there then you might want to pull out the 1/2 shafts and check
the
> >clearence on the rear wheel bearings.  Most of the time when you have a
> >bearing problem it will be constant noise and not coming in and out.
> >
> >e
> >-----------------------------------------------------
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             #1052358
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Subject: RE: AC Hose Fitting Repair ... - Last Thing
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Christopher Ritchie: You wrote...

"You realize that you've done and spent 90% of the work and cost if you
wanted to convert to R-134a now.  You could sell those 4 cans of R-12 and
put some kid through a year of college.  But you didn't ask that question."

Interesting proposition.  I have 3 kids in college right now... Penn State,
Michigan State, and Northwood University.  Look-out E-Bay!

Seriously, I'm sticking with R12 for now.  I'm planning on NCRS judging in
the near future.

Thanks to everyone for all of your help.  I'm going to replace the VIR this
weekend and remove the hose/manifold assembly.  John Hinckley gave me a tip
on a local radiator and HVAC repair facility here in suburban Detroit.  I
stopped by to see them and they can test the hose and repair as required.

If this doesn't work, my last choice is a shopping trip to Carlisle.  I was
hoping to avoid this.

Thanks again.


Lee Snyder
1974 Coupe
NCRS
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Subject: RE: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Chris, I just paid $60 to have the old one cut off and new one welded.  I
used a dependable muffler shop near my home.  They used an air powered
grinder to remove it and arc welded the new one on.

Best of luck

Don May
Red 62

Subject: C1 Battery Tray and Welding Advice Requested


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Please talk me into or out of buying a shade tree mechanic's welding set up.
  I know nothing about welding.  Never did it in my life.  Never knew anyone
who did.  Never took shop in school.  Need to cut off the old, and weld a
new battery tray onto my '62.  Having a difficult time finding somebody I
would trust to do the job.  No idea what they would charge even if I could
find someone.  Firm believer in buying tools now that I might use someday.
I bought a basin wrench 20 years ago because I was considering remodeling my
bathroom.  I haven't used it once.  My buddies have borrowed it half a dozen
times in those 20 years.  I don't regret the purchase.  Have a 220vac outlet
(for a clothes dryer) near the cellar door, near the driveway.

1. How much would the complete welding outfit cost?  I mean everything I'd
need, starting from scratch.
2.How much would a welder charge to cut off the old one; grind what's left
to make the frame pretty; and, weld the new one on?
3. Is this a skill a moderately handy homeowner can master well enough to
weld battery trays onto the frames of C1 Corvettes?
4. Any recommendations on what to buy?

_________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: 1966 Exhaust System
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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In a message dated 6/26/2003 2:58:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
fwjones@redacted.email writes:


>  Was
> the original exhaust system welded where the different lengths of
> exhaust pipe connect or did the the General just use the clamps?
> 

Frank -

       I've heard positive comments on Allen's from several people. The OEM 
exhaust system was clamped together at the transmission crossmember joint and 
welded ahead of the mufflers. GM and aftermarket replacement parts were clamped 
ahead of the mufflers.

John Hinckley
'67 300
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From: "George H. Wissmiller" <george@redacted.email>
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Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 08:44:54 -0500
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Subject: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm about to tackle replacing the steering valve and control cylinder on my
'76. I have a couple questions. I have a good mechanic who works with me and
thinks I can do it myself.

When you turn the wheel you can feel the power steering kicking in about a
second late - kind of dangerous. Plus it leaks fluid like a sieve and the
valve and cylinder are covered. The mechanic checked and said they both have
to go. I'm inclined to let the factory do the rebuilding of components.

He said it should be pretty much remove and replace with no surprises which
I can do. I've got a service manual.

I'd like to double check some of his answers:

Any surprises with routine replacement?

Do I need to bleed when it's done?

Do I need to align when done?

Is Mid America's $99.99 each for rebuilds a decent price.

Are they good about the core charge refunds?

Will I be able to drive 40 miles to and alignment shop before alignment.

Should I routinely replace hoses that appear to be in good shape? I'm
figuring on getting the cylinder bushing kit.

Is there any adjusting when I'm done other than the above.

Where'd my damn computer mouse pointer go? (That I'll figure out)

Anything else I should know?

General question - I've heard that the power steering quits the car reverts
to difficult manual steering - generally not too dangerous. Is that correct?

Any help you cold give me would be appreciated!
George
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Subject: Re: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
George: I did this sveral months ago with no real surprises. I did replace
EVERYTHING...hoses etc. Everything sounds like the mess I fixed up so why do
it half way? No you don't have to do much of anything after replacement. The
steering wheel position will change if you do not get the valve back on in
the same place...just count the turns. I followed the proceedure in the Chev
manual about bleeding on start up...very simple. The toughest part is going
to be dealing with the leaky mess and dirt that has stuck to all the pieces.
Cores are no problem, let the experts rebuild the parts and just bolt them
on. It took me about a good afternoon to do it, no bubba work here. Good
luck

Bruce Hudler -  Blue Seventy Two, now in 1 million pieces
----- Original Message -----
From: "George H. Wissmiller" <george@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 9:44 AM
Subject: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I'm about to tackle replacing the steering valve and control cylinder on
my
> '76. I have a couple questions. I have a good mechanic who works with me
and
> thinks I can do it myself.
>
> When you turn the wheel you can feel the power steering kicking in about a
> second late - kind of dangerous. Plus it leaks fluid like a sieve and the
> valve and cylinder are covered. The mechanic checked and said they both
have
> to go. I'm inclined to let the factory do the rebuilding of components.
>
> He said it should be pretty much remove and replace with no surprises
which
> I can do. I've got a service manual.
>
> I'd like to double check some of his answers:
>
> Any surprises with routine replacement?
>
> Do I need to bleed when it's done?
>
> Do I need to align when done?
>
> Is Mid America's $99.99 each for rebuilds a decent price.
>
> Are they good about the core charge refunds?
>
> Will I be able to drive 40 miles to and alignment shop before alignment.
>
> Should I routinely replace hoses that appear to be in good shape? I'm
> figuring on getting the cylinder bushing kit.
>
> Is there any adjusting when I'm done other than the above.
>
> Where'd my damn computer mouse pointer go? (That I'll figure out)
>
> Anything else I should know?
>
> General question - I've heard that the power steering quits the car
reverts
> to difficult manual steering - generally not too dangerous. Is that
correct?
>
> Any help you cold give me would be appreciated!
> George
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Fri Jun 27 07:36:57 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
George,

This is a straight-forward DIY repair, and I doubt you'll have any problems
completing it.  Here are a few comments:

 - - This is a perfect time to replace all 4 power steering hoses, unless
they were done very recently.  Make certain to use a flare wrench on the
threaded fittings, and that the valve to cylinder hoses are connected to
their proper locations!  After installation, with the car on jackstands,
check hose clearance at full steering lock (left & right) positions.  You
may need to slightly "tweak" the original bends in the valve/cylinder hose
connections.

 - - Yes, you will need to bleed the system after installation, and
bleeding procedures should arrive with the rebuild kit....if not, check the
archives or contact me offline.

- - Do not overfill with oil...the level in many pumps is to be checked
when "hot".

- -  Make certain your valve provider "centers" the rebuilt valve.  Verify
this setting while the car is still on jackstands, after completing the
bleeding procedure.  Valve centering procedures should be in the archive,
should you need to fine-tune it.

- - The toughest part of this job usually involves the separation of the
valve stud from the pitman arm.  Soak with a good penetrating oil for a day
or two in advance, and use a properly sized pickle fork & big hammer to
separate (unless you have air tools...)  Leave the nut just slightly
screwed onto the stud, so the assembly doesn't drop when the valve stud
pops loose from the pitman arm.  Use anti-seize on the valve (threaded
connection) & stud to make it easier to disassemble in the future.

- - This repair should not require an alignment.

- - Check valve/cylinder warranty provisions offered by the various
vendors....I've never had to utilize this feature, but there was a
significant variance the last time I checked.

- - Safety Issues:  Make certain the car is firmly positioned on
jackstands, and utilize a floor jack or other method as a backup.  Make
certain your hands/fingers/arms etc. are not positioned thru the spokes of
the steering wheel upon initial start-up (if the valve isn't centered
properly, the steering wheel could spin violently, and you could end up
with a broken finger.)

I'm sure others will jump in with additional info.  Feel free to contact me
with questions.

Good luck!

Ed
NCRS  #?




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Subject: Re: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ed,

Good reply!  Only thing I would add/change is that the valve is self bleeding
through the power steering pump, and don't forget to lube the valve before
installing it in the car.

e
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John / Rich
Thanks for the info on Allen's.  I'll have to schedule a appointment next month to
get a replacement exhaust system.
Frank
66 Coupe

Snake488@redacted.email wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 6/26/2003 2:58:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> fwjones@redacted.email writes:
>
> >  Was
> > the original exhaust system welded where the different lengths of
> > exhaust pipe connect or did the the General just use the clamps?
> >
>
> Frank -
>
>        I've heard positive comments on Allen's from several people. The OEM
> exhaust system was clamped together at the transmission crossmember joint and
> welded ahead of the mufflers. GM and aftermarket replacement parts were clamped
> ahead of the mufflers.
>
> John Hinckley
> '67 300
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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After 2 years of futzing, I took '58 #378 for a ride today. I'm 
concerned about the brake pedal going to about 1-3/4 inches from the 
carpet. It seems firm and it does stop the car, and I seem to have 
finally gotten the air out of the system. Can some other C1 owners 
report their pedal-down position?

Also, I was hearing some muted clang/sproing type noise every now and 
then (I think it was in turns - I live on a hill with many turns). 
Could this be normal seating-in of rear/front suspension and springs, 
or does this remind anyone of impending doom?

Thanks, ... Al   '58 #378 245hp
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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My left front can not be brought into camber specs - I can only get to 
0 degrees (vertical). So, I set the right side to 0 also. This is just 
at the edge of spec. It seems odd that the knuckle support might be 
bent in such a way that the wheel wants to lean outward; I would think 
that a pothole or other impact would have bent the thing toward 
increased camber.
What bad things may take place with camber at 0 degrees (vs. spec of 
1/2 degree, inward at the top)?
Is it reasonable to add thin shims between knuckle support and knuckle 
to push the camber to 1/2 degree?
I seem to remember shims being the stock-in-trade of old-time alignment.
... Al '58 #378 on the road again
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I just realized that my trunk key goes in teeth-up. I think I read 
somewhere that the key should go in teeth-down everywhere ( I already 
had to reverse the door locks on this car to get to that happy place). 
Is teeth-up correct for the trunk?
... Al '58 #378
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can someone tell me just where to position the rectangle of felt in the 
folding top storage compartment?
...Al '58 #378
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I've never seen a "key up" lock on a GM product, but I could be mistaken. 
That is how the old Mopars were. The lock cylinder was most likely installed 
upside down.

George
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Subject: RE: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I had a reputable Corvette mechanic tell me to replace the control valve
with a new one.  He had no luck with rebuilds.  I looked at prices for both
and I think they are only $30-$40 difference.  When you think about the time
it takes to replace the valve, this seems okay to me to pay the higher price
for a new valve.  I have yet to do the work on mine, but when I do, I will
buy new.  Can't answer any of your other questions - including your missing
mouse.

BUT - from experience, if the P/S goes, the car still turns, but it is
difficult like you said.

Good luck.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+sbrown3=gvtc.com@redacted.email]On Behalf Of
George H. Wissmiller
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 6:45 AM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: '76 power steering valve and control cylinder


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm about to tackle replacing the steering valve and control cylinder on my
'76. I have a couple questions. I have a good mechanic who works with me and
thinks I can do it myself.

When you turn the wheel you can feel the power steering kicking in about a
second late - kind of dangerous. Plus it leaks fluid like a sieve and the
valve and cylinder are covered. The mechanic checked and said they both have
to go. I'm inclined to let the factory do the rebuilding of components.

He said it should be pretty much remove and replace with no surprises which
I can do. I've got a service manual.

I'd like to double check some of his answers:

Any surprises with routine replacement?

Do I need to bleed when it's done?

Do I need to align when done?

Is Mid America's $99.99 each for rebuilds a decent price.

Are they good about the core charge refunds?

Will I be able to drive 40 miles to and alignment shop before alignment.

Should I routinely replace hoses that appear to be in good shape? I'm
figuring on getting the cylinder bushing kit.

Is there any adjusting when I'm done other than the above.

Where'd my damn computer mouse pointer go? (That I'll figure out)

Anything else I should know?

General question - I've heard that the power steering quits the car reverts
to difficult manual steering - generally not too dangerous. Is that correct?

Any help you cold give me would be appreciated!
George
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun 28 06:31:02 2003
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-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Al,
I would suspect since you have a good firm pedal when you finally get there,
that the problem is with the brake adjustment. I would adjust the brakes
until you get a nice consistent drag on the shoes on all four corners, and
then readjust them in a few miles. The trunk lock does go in teeth down, and
is real easy to flip.  I would not be concerned about not being able to get
to the spec on the camber, of all the adjustments, this is the least
critical to  a good handling car. I would not mess with the shims, as you
will be affecting the ability of the knuckle to sit squarely on the spindle
support. The top compartment felt starts at bottom of the little offset
right behind the mounting screws at the front edge and covers the entire
flat of the cover and goes down the rear slope. The felt is centered on the
cover.
                Regards, John McGraw

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Cellier" <N6AC@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:27 PM
Subject: C1 brake pedal travel


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> After 2 years of futzing, I took '58 #378 for a ride today. I'm
> concerned about the brake pedal going to about 1-3/4 inches from the
> carpet. It seems firm and it does stop the car, and I seem to have
> finally gotten the air out of the system. Can some other C1 owners
> report their pedal-down position?
>
> Also, I was hearing some muted clang/sproing type noise every now and
> then (I think it was in turns - I live on a hill with many turns).
> Could this be normal seating-in of rear/front suspension and springs,
> or does this remind anyone of impending doom?
>
> Thanks, ... Al   '58 #378 245hp
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
 Al,

Just a thought but it sounds to me as if you have 49-54 passenger car front
spindles on the car.  The Corvette and the passenger car used the same casting
for the spindle, they were not cut the same.  GM p/n 3737594 Knuckle fit from
53-62 Corvette, it's casting number was 3693446 and it had a daub of yellow
paint on the cast section of the part.  GM p/n 3696323 Knuckle fit 49-54
Passenger car and the casting number was 3693446 too!  When held side by side
the difference is in the angle that the spindle was cut on the raw part after
it was cast.    I don't know the adverse effects of the camber setting that
you have but maybe someone else will help here!

I know that over the years I have had several customers that have used the
passenger car knuckle and not had problems.

E
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
As mentioned before, I'm embarking on the restoration of a '61 for a 
customer.  I received the car in pieces.  There was no battery tray on the 
frame and strangely enough, no witness marks identifying the exact 
placement.  I have a new battery tray, and while I can see how and 
approximately where it welds onto the frame, I don't know the correct 
dimensional placement for it.  Can someone help me out with that.  There's a 
bracket sticking outboard from the frame behind where the battery tray goes; 
I need to know the distance from the front edge of that bracket to the back 
edge of the battery tray.

thanks much,

rex

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-----------------------------------------------------
Rex,

My '60 measures 9 3/16" from the front of the body mount to the rear
lower battery tray brace.

Hope this helps,

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+rpol78=kc.rr.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+rpol78=kc.rr.com@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
Rex Smith
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 12:19 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C1 Battery Tray placement

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
As mentioned before, I'm embarking on the restoration of a '61 for a 
customer.  I received the car in pieces.  There was no battery tray on
the 
frame and strangely enough, no witness marks identifying the exact 
placement.  I have a new battery tray, and while I can see how and 
approximately where it welds onto the frame, I don't know the correct 
dimensional placement for it.  Can someone help me out with that.
There's a 
bracket sticking outboard from the frame behind where the battery tray
goes; 
I need to know the distance from the front edge of that bracket to the
back 
edge of the battery tray.

thanks much,

rex

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what is the letter suffix stamped on the pad in front of the right cylinder
head?
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Teeth are down, and ignition key is the same key. The felt just lies across 
the tank and is glued down as the soft top rests on it. 
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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Al, on my '60 and 62s the protective pad lays on top of the gas tank cover and 
aligns with the flat of the cover.  I don't know about the '58.

          FWIW
          Brian
        Silver (the primer is on) '62
> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Can someone tell me just where to position the rectangle of felt in the 
> folding top storage compartment?
> ...Al '58 #378
> -----------------------------------------------------
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John-
I tried to call Orwin Middleton at 805-482-7826 and a lady who answered 
said "who?".
Can you double -check the phone number for me?
Thanks,
...Al '58 #378 245hp



On Tuesday, May 6, 2003, at 11:30  AM, john costales wrote:

> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I have used Orwin Middleton to repair several Wonderbars and power 
> packs. He is very good and reasonable and has an amazing inventory of 
> NOS parts. He has been working on wonderbars since 1957. His wife has 
> had some medical problems and it bothers me that he did not return my 
> last phone call.
> Orwin Middleton
> #9 Calle Fronte
> Camarillo, CA 93010
> 805.482.7826
>
> John from Ventura,
> 57/270
>
>> Hi All,I need to send the wonderbar radio out of my '59 out for 
>> restoration. Has anyone had a good experience with or know of a good 
>> restoration source that won't require me to take out a second 
>> mortgage? Thanks, Robert Doyle, '59, Inca silver, 270
>> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
> -----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Sorry, apparently I misdialed the first time and the lady didn't really 
hear my reading out of the number I had dialed. On a second try, I did 
get Orwin's answering machine at the number below.
...Al

On Saturday, June 28, 2003, at 01:19  PM, Al Cellier wrote:

> John-
> I tried to call Orwin Middleton at 805-482-7826 and a lady who 
> answered said "who?".
> Can you double -check the phone number for me?
> Thanks,
> ...Al '58 #378 245hp
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 6, 2003, at 11:30  AM, john costales wrote:
>
>> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>> I have used Orwin Middleton to repair several Wonderbars and power 
>> packs. He is very good and reasonable and has an amazing inventory of 
>> NOS parts. He has been working on wonderbars since 1957. His wife has 
>> had some medical problems and it bothers me that he did not return my 
>> last phone call.
>> Orwin Middleton
>> #9 Calle Fronte
>> Camarillo, CA 93010
>> 805.482.7826
>>
>> John from Ventura,
>> 57/270
>>
>>> Hi All,I need to send the wonderbar radio out of my '59 out for 
>>> restoration. Has anyone had a good experience with or know of a good 
>>> restoration source that won't require me to take out a second 
>>> mortgage? Thanks, Robert Doyle, '59, Inca silver, 270
>>> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>> For subscriber information, see
>> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
>> Send other comments or questions about this list to
>> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
>> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Fantastic; thanks much.

rex

>From: "rpol78" <rpol78@redacted.email>
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: <crpl@redacted.email>
>Subject: RE: C1 Battery Tray placement
>Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:15:09 -0500
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Rex,
>
>My '60 measures 9 3/16" from the front of the body mount to the rear
>lower battery tray brace.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Ted
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: crpl-bounces+rpol78=kc.rr.com@redacted.email
>[mailto:crpl-bounces+rpol78=kc.rr.com@redacted.email] On Behalf Of
>Rex Smith
>Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 12:19 PM
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: C1 Battery Tray placement
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>As mentioned before, I'm embarking on the restoration of a '61 for a
>customer.  I received the car in pieces.  There was no battery tray on
>the
>frame and strangely enough, no witness marks identifying the exact
>placement.  I have a new battery tray, and while I can see how and
>approximately where it welds onto the frame, I don't know the correct
>dimensional placement for it.  Can someone help me out with that.
>There's a
>bracket sticking outboard from the frame behind where the battery tray
>goes;
>I need to know the distance from the front edge of that bracket to the
>back
>edge of the battery tray.
>
>thanks much,
>
>rex
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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Can someone tell me what the specs/appearance is supposed to be for the 
trunk spear fasteners?
Are the trunk spear prongs just (tapered?) metal, or are they supposed 
to have threads? What size?
Mine are a mixture and plenty corroded so it's hard to tell...
... Al '58 #378
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-----------------------------------------------------
In remounting my wiper motor and its' control cable, I have forgotten 
whether the control cable is supposed to push or to pull on the plastic 
thingy which activates the switch. (the car has a washer coordinator 
which also connects to the thingy). I couldn't find a detailed picture 
anywhere. Comment or close-up photo?
... Al '58 #378
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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It is to protect the plastic window on the soft top, so I just made sure
that that area is covered.  That's the best information that I could get.

Gary Lapman
'61 Fawn

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Al Cellier N6AC@redacted.email
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 21:40:21 -0700
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: C1 top compartment protective felt


The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can someone tell me just where to position the rectangle of felt in the
folding top storage compartment?
...Al '58 #378
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sat Jun 28 17:25:34 2003
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Subject: Starting Problems
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Have a big block midyear with tri-power that has gotten a mind of its
own.  Recently, whenever I shut it off and let it sit for 10 - 20
minutes, I cannot get it restarted without a quick shot of ether.  I
have tried:
 
-         locking the choke open
-         trying to start without touching the pedal
-         trying to start by slightly depressing the pedal (the way it I
always started it in the past)
-         trying to start by flooring the pedal
-         looking down the throat of the secondaries and primary
carburetor and there are no drips
-         the accelerator pump seem to work fine
-         replaced the power valve
 
If I let it sit overnight, it won't start so it doesn't seem to be heat
related.  I pulled the plugs.  Other than being a little darker brown
than usual, they seemed fine.  Once it starts, it runs fine although the
pipes look like it might be running rich.  
 
It is a TI car so I wondered about ignition but with the shot of ether,
it starts right up.  Everything was new last year and it ran just fine.
This started a month ago after several weeks of problem free use.  I do
get an occasional backfire through the carburetor, that's why I replace
the power valve.
 
Any ideas?  It finally stopped raining around here and I can't take it
anywhere if I need to shut it off (a fairly regular occurrence with a
big block).  Any help would be appreciated.
 
Steve
67 Lyndale roadster
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Steve,

Next time, before you try to re-start it take off the air cleaner and pump the
pedal one time while looking in the carb. You indicated no drips but when are
you not seeing no drips?   See if fuel squirts down the throat of the carb.
It sounds to me as if the carb is bleeding off the fuel when it's shut off.
When you shut it off with the air cleaner off the car do you see vapor's
coming off the carb?

If putting ether in it makes it start,  that kind of eliminates fire.  This
kind of problem can only be one of the two things.  Fuel or Fire!

Let me know and we'll take it from there.

E
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Did that and the accelerator pump sends a healthy stream of fuel into
the venturis.  Did not see any vapors coming out of the carb at shutoff
but I will repeat the test just to make sure.

I also was thinking that perhaps I have a bad batch of fuel?  The is no
water in the bottom of the tank but the results of just the smallest
amount of ether would seem to indicate that the stuff in the cylinders
is not explosive enough and the ether adds that extra kick?

Thanks
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+steve.sullivan=attbi.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+steve.sullivan=attbi.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of Willcox Inc. Corvette Parts and Service
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 11:35 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: Re: Starting Problems

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Steve,

Next time, before you try to re-start it take off the air cleaner and
pump the
pedal one time while looking in the carb. You indicated no drips but
when are
you not seeing no drips?   See if fuel squirts down the throat of the
carb.
It sounds to me as if the carb is bleeding off the fuel when it's shut
off.
When you shut it off with the air cleaner off the car do you see vapor's
coming off the carb?

If putting ether in it makes it start,  that kind of eliminates fire.
This
kind of problem can only be one of the two things.  Fuel or Fire!

Let me know and we'll take it from there.

E
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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Subject: PLATING
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Can anyone recommend someone to plate nuts, bolts, brackets ,etc. I've tried 
the home plating kits with no success. Thanks Paul 1960
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
At 08:41 AM 6/29/03 -0400, you wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Did that, and the accelerator pump sends a healthy stream of fuel into
>the venturis.  Did not see any vapors coming out of the carb at shutoff
>but I will repeat the test just to make sure.
>
>I also was thinking that perhaps I have a bad batch of fuel?  The is no
>water in the bottom of the tank but the results of just the smallest
>amount of ether would seem to indicate that the stuff in the cylinders
>is not explosive enough and the ether adds that extra kick?
>
>Thanks
>Steve
==========================================================================
Hi Steve & the list,

         I have a 67/435HP car, and about 10 or 11 years ago, a similar 
thing happened to me. After a hot soak, the engine would not start, or it 
would start just as I released the key. This reminded me of a car with a 
bad ballast resistor, which TI cars DO NOT have. Mine turned out to be a 
bad pickup coil in the distributor--I replaced it (they were still 
available then at a "decent" price), and I never had a problem again.

         However Steve, yours could be either--fuel or spark--with the 
Ether making it start. If you get a "healthy" squirt when you open the 
throttle, that eliminates the accelerator pump in the center carb. It 
sounds like your engine is "starving" for fuel, and if you're getting a 
"good" squirt, I would say that it sounds like you got a bad load of gas.

         However, check for spark when it won't start--the problem could 
still be in the ignition system. It is very possible that you have a "very 
weak" spark that won't ignite the gas, but will ignite the Ether due to its 
higher volatility. You will need 2 people to do that--one to crank it, and 
the other to look for a good healthy spark. Just pull the most accessible 
plug wire, stick a screwdriver into the plug boot, and hold the screwdriver 
shaft next to the exhaust manifold--you should be able to see at least a 
good 1/4" spark. If you do get that, but still no start, I would get rid of 
the load of gas in your tank. Luckily, siphoning gas from a midyear is easy.


                                         GOOD LUCK,


                                         RON

  ***********************************************************
                     RON GOLDSTEIN--KA2IIA
                      PUTNAM VALLEY, N.Y.
                             ******
           STAY YOUNG---DRIVE A VINTAGE 427 CORVETTE.
    KEEP YOUR MIND ACTIVE--BECOME AN AMATEUR RADIO OPERATOR.
       REMEMBER, THERE ARE NO STRANGERS IN AMATEUR RADIO,
              JUST FRIENDS WE HAVE NOT YET MET.
          solidgold@redacted.email****ka2iia@redacted.email
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Thanks to Joe Pennington for the tip. Have it adjusted correctly now and 
the "chirp" is gone(hopefully permanently!!)

Hal Emrich
62-340
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Ron,

I tried to start the car this morning stone cold and it won't fire.  I
swapped coils and didn't make a difference.  I pulled a plug and
grounded the plug connected to the wire to the steering box, had a
friend crank the engine and I do get a small blue spark but it wasn't as
pronounced as I expected.  So, I pulled a plug from another big block
sitting next to it without TI and repeated the same test, even using the
same spark plug.  The spark was noticeably bigger and yellow.  I have
one of the upgraded replacement amplifier boards.  I always assumed that
they would either work or just not work at all.  Can they "fade away"?
Is this more indicative or a pickup or the amplifier itself?

The weather is finally top down and I can't go anywhere, it is killing
me...

Thanks.
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: crpl-bounces+steve.sullivan=attbi.com@redacted.email
[mailto:crpl-bounces+steve.sullivan=attbi.com@redacted.email] On
Behalf Of Ron Goldstein
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 1:12 PM
To: crpl@redacted.email
Subject: RE: Starting Problems

The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
At 08:41 AM 6/29/03 -0400, you wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Did that, and the accelerator pump sends a healthy stream of fuel into
>the venturis.  Did not see any vapors coming out of the carb at shutoff
>but I will repeat the test just to make sure.
>
>I also was thinking that perhaps I have a bad batch of fuel?  The is no
>water in the bottom of the tank but the results of just the smallest
>amount of ether would seem to indicate that the stuff in the cylinders
>is not explosive enough and the ether adds that extra kick?
>
>Thanks
>Steve
========================================================================
==
Hi Steve & the list,

         I have a 67/435HP car, and about 10 or 11 years ago, a similar
thing happened to me. After a hot soak, the engine would not start, or
it
would start just as I released the key. This reminded me of a car with a

bad ballast resistor, which TI cars DO NOT have. Mine turned out to be a

bad pickup coil in the distributor--I replaced it (they were still
available then at a "decent" price), and I never had a problem again.

         However Steve, yours could be either--fuel or spark--with the
Ether making it start. If you get a "healthy" squirt when you open the
throttle, that eliminates the accelerator pump in the center carb. It
sounds like your engine is "starving" for fuel, and if you're getting a
"good" squirt, I would say that it sounds like you got a bad load of
gas.

         However, check for spark when it won't start--the problem could

still be in the ignition system. It is very possible that you have a
"very
weak" spark that won't ignite the gas, but will ignite the Ether due to
its
higher volatility. You will need 2 people to do that--one to crank it,
and
the other to look for a good healthy spark. Just pull the most
accessible
plug wire, stick a screwdriver into the plug boot, and hold the
screwdriver
shaft next to the exhaust manifold--you should be able to see at least a

good 1/4" spark. If you do get that, but still no start, I would get rid
of
the load of gas in your tank. Luckily, siphoning gas from a midyear is
easy.


                                         GOOD LUCK,


                                         RON

  ***********************************************************
                     RON GOLDSTEIN--KA2IIA
                      PUTNAM VALLEY, N.Y.
                             ******
           STAY YOUNG---DRIVE A VINTAGE 427 CORVETTE.
    KEEP YOUR MIND ACTIVE--BECOME AN AMATEUR RADIO OPERATOR.
       REMEMBER, THERE ARE NO STRANGERS IN AMATEUR RADIO,
              JUST FRIENDS WE HAVE NOT YET MET.
          solidgold@redacted.email****ka2iia@redacted.email
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 29 13:43:35 2003
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
  A while ago someone with a 58? commented they had finned front drums, not the 
grooved ones with the anti-noise spring.  At a recent NCRS chapter meeting 
pictures of NOS C1 finned drums were shown and it was explained that they were 
quite rare and part of a HD brake package around 56 or 57 (and maybe 
58?) ...anyway, you might want to do some more checking on those drums before 
you "correct" the situation. They may be worth something even if not correct 
for your car.

Hal Emrich
NCRS 8658
-----------------------------------------------------
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Paul,
I have found it hard to get someone that will do little batches and if you
wait until you have a large batch, It can really get parts mixed up. I have
been using Caswell's plating setup for almost 5 years and I get really good
results. The learning curve is steep, but after you learn the system it can
produce parts that you can get any look you wish from dull Cad to bright
zinc di-chromate.
The advantage of being able to do a couple of parts whenever I wanted made
me stick with the system until I learned it well. I now have increased my
capacity to 15 gallons so that I can do those large parts like seat tracks
that I have been forced to send out in the past.
                Regards, John McGraw

----- Original Message -----
From: <JUTTBRO4@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 11:13 AM
Subject: PLATING


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Can anyone recommend someone to plate nuts, bolts, brackets ,etc. I've
tried
> the home plating kits with no success. Thanks Paul 1960
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 19:50:33 -0400
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Subject: RE: Starting Problems
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
At 04:21 PM 6/29/03 -0400, you wrote:
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Ron,
>
>I tried to start the car this morning stone cold and it won't fire.  I
>swapped coils and didn't make a difference.  I pulled a plug and
>grounded the plug connected to the wire to the steering box, had a
>friend crank the engine and I do get a small blue spark but it wasn't as
>pronounced as I expected.  So, I pulled a plug from another big block
>sitting next to it without TI and repeated the same test, even using the
>same spark plug.  The spark was noticeably bigger and yellow.  I have
>one of the upgraded replacement amplifier boards.  I always assumed that
>they would either work or just not work at all.  Can they "fade away"?
>Is this more indicative or a pickup or the amplifier itself?
>
>The weather is finally top down and I can't go anywhere, it is killing
>me...
>
>Thanks.
>Steve
==========================================================================
Hi again Steve,

         Well, now we can hopefully assume that it IS NOT a fuel problem. 
As long as you have one of those new amplifier boards, give it a try--it's 
easier than replacing the pickup coil. Unfortunately, if that doesn't do 
the trick, your next step is to replace the pickup coil.

         Speaking of assuming, I assume that you have looked at both the 
distributor cap & rotor--a totally worn out or broken button in the cap or 
a broken rotor might give the same symptoms.

         Speaking of top down weather & can't go anywhere---I have the same 
problem--I'm having a retaining wall and new deck built on my home, and 
guess where all the wood & cement blocks are piled up.

                                         RON
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Sun Jun 29 18:11:28 2003
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From: "Kelly McClain" <kelly10@redacted.email>
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
John, sounds like just what I need, "shine in a bottle or bucket".  Where
does one get this Caswell's plating system?  Thanks.  Kelly '54
----- Original Message -----
From: JOHN MCGRAW <jmcgraw@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: PLATING


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Hi Paul,
> I have found it hard to get someone that will do little batches and if you
> wait until you have a large batch, It can really get parts mixed up. I
have
> been using Caswell's plating setup for almost 5 years and I get really
good
> results. The learning curve is steep, but after you learn the system it
can
> produce parts that you can get any look you wish from dull Cad to bright
> zinc di-chromate.
> The advantage of being able to do a couple of parts whenever I wanted made
> me stick with the system until I learned it well. I now have increased my
> capacity to 15 gallons so that I can do those large parts like seat tracks
> that I have been forced to send out in the past.
>                 Regards, John McGraw
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JUTTBRO4@redacted.email>
> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 11:13 AM
> Subject: PLATING
>
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Can anyone recommend someone to plate nuts, bolts, brackets ,etc. I've
> tried
> > the home plating kits with no success. Thanks Paul 1960
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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Send other comments or questions about this list to
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Kelly,
Here is a link to their site:
http://www.caswellplating.com/
I know many people using the cad/ zinc plating system and there are many
satisfied users. Like I said, the learning process takes a little while, but
if you do a lot of parts restoration you will find the system a very good
value.
                       Regards, John McGraw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McClain" <kelly10@redacted.email>
To: <crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: PLATING


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> John, sounds like just what I need, "shine in a bottle or bucket".  Where
> does one get this Caswell's plating system?  Thanks.  Kelly '54
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JOHN MCGRAW <jmcgraw@redacted.email>
> To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 4:43 PM
> Subject: Re: PLATING
>
>
> > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > Hi Paul,
> > I have found it hard to get someone that will do little batches and if
you
> > wait until you have a large batch, It can really get parts mixed up. I
> have
> > been using Caswell's plating setup for almost 5 years and I get really
> good
> > results. The learning curve is steep, but after you learn the system it
> can
> > produce parts that you can get any look you wish from dull Cad to bright
> > zinc di-chromate.
> > The advantage of being able to do a couple of parts whenever I wanted
made
> > me stick with the system until I learned it well. I now have increased
my
> > capacity to 15 gallons so that I can do those large parts like seat
tracks
> > that I have been forced to send out in the past.
> >                 Regards, John McGraw
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <JUTTBRO4@redacted.email>
> > To: <crpl@redacted.email>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 11:13 AM
> > Subject: PLATING
> >
> >
> > > The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Can anyone recommend someone to plate nuts, bolts, brackets ,etc. I've
> > tried
> > > the home plating kits with no success. Thanks Paul 1960
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > For subscriber information, see
> > > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > For subscriber information, see
> > http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> > Send other comments or questions about this list to
> > John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> > CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
> -----------------------------------------------------
> For subscriber information, see
> http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
> Send other comments or questions about this list to
> John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
> CRPL homepage  http://www.corvette-resto.com
-----------------------------------------------------
For subscriber information, see
http://www.corvette-resto.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/crpl
Send other comments or questions about this list to
John C. Broman, Jr. at jcbroman@redacted.email
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 30 05:28:19 2003
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From: lovejoy@redacted.email
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Subject: RE: C1 1958 Trunk Spear Fasteners
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
Hi Al,

The studs on the trunk spears are smooth, the fasteners resemble pal nuts
(stamped spring steel which carve their own threads). The same fasteners are
used on the heater/defroster/clock bezel.

The trunk irons on my '58 (ebay specials) have two broken studs, I carefully
drilled and tapped them to accept a 10-24 screw, the rest have the pal nuts
(which are available from most of the Corvette houses).

Hope this helps.

Best Regards from Connecticut,

Mark S. Lovejoy
-----------------------------------------------------
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 30 06:12:51 2003
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Subject: Re: C1 Finned drums
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I assume you're responding to a question I had a couple weeks ago about 
finned drums on my '61.  Further investigation pointed up the fact that 
those drums were not even meant for a Corvette.  They bear no resemblance to 
the drums pictured in Noland's book, and my backing plates don't have the 
requisite screens that would accompany finned drums.

thanks, rex

>From: hemrich@redacted.email
>Reply-To: crpl@redacted.email
>To: crpl@redacted.email
>Subject: C1 Finned drums
>Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 20:43:15 +0000
>
>The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
>-----------------------------------------------------
>   A while ago someone with a 58? commented they had finned front drums, 
>not the
>grooved ones with the anti-noise spring.  At a recent NCRS chapter meeting
>pictures of NOS C1 finned drums were shown and it was explained that they 
>were
>quite rare and part of a HD brake package around 56 or 57 (and maybe
>58?) ...anyway, you might want to do some more checking on those drums 
>before
>you "correct" the situation. They may be worth something even if not 
>correct
>for your car.
>
>Hal Emrich
>NCRS 8658
>-----------------------------------------------------
>For subscriber information, see
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>Send other comments or questions about this list to
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_________________________________________________________________
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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
-----------------------------------------------------
I recently had new speakers installed in my car. Lately the radio fades or 
has no reception as I drive...Where should I check for the loose connections?
-----------------------------------------------------
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EDGOLD Wrote : I recently had new speakers installed in my car. Lately the
radio fades or
has no reception as I drive...Where should I check for the loose connections?


I would be checking out the antenna and antenna lead.  It also could be making
poorly or falling out of the jack on the radio.
Greg Bares
74 L-82 coupe
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From: "Len Palmer" <LPalmer@redacted.email>
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My fuel guage is now stuck on full.  I repainted the needle and the needle
located to the bottom side of the face of the guage when I touched it with the
paint brush.  I rotated the needle back to where it had been.  Now, when I
start the car, the needle now moves a tiny bit toward the right.  When I turn
the car off, it falls a tiny bit to the left.

I checked the wires on the back side of the guage and they appear to be seated
properly.

The guage was working fine before this.  Let me know what might be the
problem.

Len Palmer
64 Corevette Roadster
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 30 17:12:12 2003
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I put an Allen's exhaust on my 66 L79 and my buddy put one on his 73 454.
Both were perfect.  Mine was aluminized, his was stainless.
Gary
)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Has anyone had any experience with Allen's Corvette Exhaust Systems for
> Logansport, Indiana?  Has anyone ever had them do an installation?  Was
> it satisfactory?  I've seen their advertisements in the NCRS Driveline
> and was thinking of having them replace my deteriorating system.  Was
> the original exhaust system welded where the different lengths of
> exhaust pipe connect or did the the General just use the clamps?
> Your input is appreciated.
> Thanks
> Frank
> 66 Coupe
>


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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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I'm in the process of rebuilding the a-arms on the '61.  The Pin Kit - Lower 
Outer is part # 0965  for 53 - 62 from Corvette America.  There's another 
number on it as well 928JA.  It has 2 rubber washers included in it.  I did 
not take any rubber washers out of the assembly, nor is there a place for 
these rubber washers.  All the other parts in the kit look like accurate 
replacements.  Does anyone know what the deal is?

thanks, rex

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The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
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The two rubber washers are seals. The old ones most likely rotted and fell
out years ago. They are shown on page 3-9 of the ST-12, Corvette Servicing
guide. and installation instructions are on page 3-10.To:
<crpl@redacted.email>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 9:26 PM
Subject: C1 A-arm Assembly


> The Corvette Restoration and Preservation List (CRPL)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I'm in the process of rebuilding the a-arms on the '61.  The Pin Kit -
Lower
> Outer is part # 0965  for 53 - 62 from Corvette America.  There's another
> number on it as well 928JA.  It has 2 rubber washers included in it.  I
did
> not take any rubber washers out of the assembly, nor is there a place for
> these rubber washers.  All the other parts in the kit look like accurate
> replacements.  Does anyone know what the deal is?
>
> thanks, rex
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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I just finished this step on my 62.  The only thing the ST-12 does not tell
you is that it takes 4 hands to get the seals up on the ends of the bushing
so you can install the arm.  It can however be done if you have a very
understanding wife.

John
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From crpl-bounces+crpl-post-archive=gigo.com@redacted.email  Mon Jun 30 20:36:59 2003
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From: Nicolas Sakellis <nsakellis@redacted.email>
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Subject: Knock-Off Wheels & Roll-Pins
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	I was wondering whether anyone has had any experience one way or the
other in using roll-pins in the keyways of their knock-off wheels?

	Some people, including myself, use screws, but when it was suggested to
me that roll-pin would be a better way to go, it seemed  to me to make
pretty good sense.

		Nick Sakellis
		'66 Coupe
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